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I have the normal wood wheels on my 1929 standard. I recently bought a set of 5 wire wheels to upgrade, but what else do I need - drums or hubs or ??? Does anyone have some of this to sell? Thanks.

Last week I tried fitting up the new trunk I just finished. I found an article originally written in 1929 on how to build a trunk for your model A, and it was easy to adapt it for my '29 Buick sedan. I don't have the trunk mounting brackets finished yet, and that is why I did the test fit-up as shown in the attached pictures. So far I think it looks pretty good, and am adding places on the new trunk brackets to allow the original spare tire & holder to mount behind the trunk. I have seen a lot of similar trunks on model A's, so I guess this was a popular article in its day.

I am looking for a decent plater in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area that someone else has used and recommends. I don't need a top-notch job done - my car is a driver and it is gar from perfect - but I bought a rear-seat footrest that should be re-plated to look better. This will probably need to be done in chrome, but in the future I might want to do some nickel plating on other parts, so I am looking for a plater that can do both and doesn't mind taking small jobs. Any recommendations? Thanks. John

I am a new BCA member (Oct 2016), this is my first National meet, and I am planning to be a "spectator"on Friday & Saturday mornings - I want to see the cars and check out the swap meet, but I am not bringing my car. Mainly interested in Pre-war Buicks, especially 1927 - 1936. Hope to see a few and get some tips. John

I bent my own new tube for my 29 Standard using a section of aluminum tubing, filling it with wet sand while bending. I think it worked well enough - there are kinks at each bend but it is no longer seeing as much exhaust air since I also made my own thin steel block-off plate for the manifold. However, I am still looking for a good packing material for the tube. I bought some high-temp 1/16" rope but it doesn't stay in very well - would like to find some thin flat material like an electrical grounding strap to use instead.

Thanks everyone for all of the ideas. I do have the original Marvel carb, and I do always start with full choke. I was wondering about trying full throttle to start though - haven't tried that yet, so I will. I did a compression check and the cylinders look OK - about the same or a little better than when I checked them 2+ years ago. All 6 read btwn 50-60 psi. However, I do not get a spark from the ignition coil. This might be a recent development, because I did just replace points, condenser, etc. Luckily I have a spare distributor so I could examine how it works out of the car. In the car I do have 6V to the one side of the ignition coil primary, but the other side should get grounded periodically as the points close, and that is not happening, so either I need to re-adjust the points/spring contact or the screw terminals are corroded. I ran out of time last night so hopefully I can fix it this evening. I appreciate all the comments - hopefully I will have good news soon ... John

I can't get my car started. I know gas is getting to the carb, and I crank the engine several times but it never fires. However, after cranking several times, and after I see fuel leaking out of the air cleaner, I remove a few spark plugs and find they are completely dry. Shouldn't they be wet at that point? I've taken the carb apart several times and fixed small leaks around drain plugs and screws, and verified that the low speed jet is not plugged. I put in a new float and it seems to both let fuel into the bowl and hold it at a level once full. We re-sleeved the heat riser tube 2 years ago and I know it is still solid. I've replaced points, condenser, rotor and distributor cap. Plugs and wires are 2 years old and have less than 500 miles on them. I measured the ignition coil resistances and believe they are OK, but maybe the secondary is a little high (8K ohms). However, if the problem was no spark, why are the plugs dry? I have always had trouble starting this car since I bought it 3 years ago, but eventually I have been able to get it to go except for this year. The mechanical fuel pump is not connected - the previous owner installed an always-on electric fuel pump and I can hear it running (plus the carb leaks gas out of the air cleaner after cranking several times and the bowl is not dry.) Any ideas? Thanks. John

Does anyone know the 1929 ignition coil resistance range for a "good" primary and secondary coil? Thanks.

The one I bought was said to be from a 1931 Buick. They are hard to find in general, and I figured it would be close enough for me. It definitely was plated originally, but there is evidence that someone added carpet tape or something to it at one time, and I have seen a few photos of footrests in various 20's cars where the bar is covered in carpet or cloth, so I wasn't sure what is correct for a Buick. I still haven't seen another 29-27 in person, so I am not sure what is right. I think there are several small details about my car that are not quite correct. Obviously I am not a fanatic about getting it exactly right since I am putting a 1931 foot rail into a 1929 car, but I would like it to be as close to correct as I can reasonably do. Here is what it looks like now after I cleaned it up a bit:

Has anyone else in the 1929 Silver Anniversary Buick Club received a newsletter or heard anything since last year? I am worried that something is wrong - haven't been able to contact Bill via e-mail. Thanks.

I bought a used (original) rear-seat foot bar for my sedan because it was missing when I bought the car. I am not sure if it should be re-plated and installed that way, or re-plated and then have carpet applied along the length of the bar. Which is correct for a Standard sedan? My guess is that it should not have carpet. Thanks.

Are these all still for sale now? The original posting date was 2013??? If they are, I might be interested in the front wheels and/or the trunk rack shown in the photos (if they fit a 1929 20-series)

I would like to know if someone sells a plug that can be used to block off the heat riser on a 1929 Standard, or if I would need to make my own plug. If making my own, is there a recommended material? I believe I have seen a photo of a heat riser with a plug in the outlet to the crossover tube. Otherwise, does anyone have an extra Standard crossover tube they don't need? Mine is not correct - it is a bit undersize and exhaust leaks out around the tube because my heat riser flapper is broken and stuck open. I am trying to make my own replacement tube but am having trouble getting the required bends in the tube. Thanks

Thanks to all who responded. I will have it chrome plated.

Wanted for 1929 Standard: 1) speedometer cable and small gear that attaches to cable and mates into transmission gear for a 29-27. I have a gear for a master but need one for a standard 2) rear-mount brackets for an external trunk. The brackets mount to the gas tank, and the spare tire mounts to the brackets behind the trunk instead of directly to the gas tank. I have seen one picture of this arrangement on one car Thank you.

The radiator badge on my 1929 is not correct (for any year Buick, as far as I know), so I bought one that is correct. It needs to be re-plated, but I am not sure what to do in preparation for bringing it to the plater. Also, should it be nickel or chrome plated? Here are some pics: Thanks.

Thanks for the ideas Chuck and Hugh. I noticed in pictures from an older posting regarding replacement of a seal on a 1925 that there was a cork gasket between the seal flange and the inner brake drum as Hugh mentioned. There isn't one on my leaking wheel. So I made my own but it seemed to interfere with tightening the 6 bolts, and I broke 2 of the bolts while tightening them. So I abandoned use of the cork seal. I haven't looked at the other wheel yet to see if it has a gasket or not because the car is still on a jack for the first wheel. John

I need some advice on changing out the rear wheel seal. It is a dense felt donut-shaped seal that is held in place next to the wheel bearing by a stamped-metal ring. I think the old seal leaks. When I take off the wheel, the old seal is compressed to fit nicely into the metal ring and it goes on and off the axle when installed in the wheel without any trouble. The new seal, however, is not yet compressed to size and therefore is a little larger in OD, and then when compressed by the metal ring the ID is too small to fit over the axle. I have tried for about 4-5 hours total to get the wheel re-installed with a new seal and it will not go on (the seal ID is too small). I bought new seals from Bob's and ordered the correct ones for a 29-27 Standard, and Bob says that they are the correct size (he has made them this size for 40 years and the dimensions are per the Buick service manual). Bob said to soak the seal in motor oil and I did that but it did not help. There is some trick to getting these installed and I don't know what it is. Can anybody help? Thanks. John

I also saw this car just after Bob got it about 2 years ago. Really a cool car, and the interior is very nice original. Dashboard looks very rich. I wanted a 4-door sedan and this is a 2-door, but I think someone would be very happy with it. I think about it often and look at the pics I took often - see below

One nice clock plus another partial for spare parts. Clock has several patent dates from 1907 - 1912. Does not have a glass face, but there is a threaded section on the inside of the steel housing around the clock face so I assume there shold be a screw-in glass cover. $20 for the pair plus $5 shipping.

Looking to buy a wheel puller that fits the standard wheel hubs (long wood artillery spokes) on a 1929 Buick 116". I also could trde you one I have that fits a 3 5/8" OD hub (I think I need about 3 5/16").

I bought this ammeter at a GM swap meet thinking it was the right one for my '29 Buick, but it is just a little too large in diameter. See the photo (tape measure shows size) for details. It has a brass-colored bezel. $12 includes shipping to you.

4 glass headlamp lenses, all have the DB emblem molded into glass at top and all measure 8 1/4" in diameter at widest point: 2 lenses, each with rope seal - $12 each 1 lens like the first 2, but corner of glass is cut as shown in photo ad no rope seal - $10 1 lens like the others, but "SPREADLIGHT" molded into glass, this lens has several small pits/black specs of foreign material - $10 3 different metal gauge plates - see photo - the 2 oil gauges are different from one another. Speedo gauge is marked Johns-Manville. $10 for all three. 2 dashboard lamp holders. I believe these are for DB but they could be generic. $4 each shipping is in addition to the prices listed - will attempt to only charge actual shipping cost

I would like to know the hub diameter dimensions for the various wheel options for 1929. My car is a standard with standard wheels (long artillery spokes), and the hub OD appears to be about 3 5/16". I bought a wheel puller that is for a 29 Buick on a chance it would fit my wheels, but it appears to be designed for 3 5/8" dia hubs. Does anyone know which of the other wheel styles this would fit? And would anyone be interested to trade a standard-size wheel puller for this one?

My car runs fine when the outside temperature is warm (75 F and higher). When colder, I have some trouble. My car has an electric fuel pump that someone added before I bought the car, and they also disconnected the mechanical pump. There are two "new" fuel filters - one back by the pump/tank and another just before the carburetor at the engine. On cold days (this AM it was about 44 F) the car starts, idles, and runs initially OK, but in less than 1 mile it starts to miss, cough, almost backfire, &/or make popping noises when I try to accelerate. Associated with this is a sudden loss of power. From that point on things get worse, and even at idling it runs rough. I tried adjusting the carburetor air screw (turned it in to get more pressure / run richer) and opened the low speed jet valve on the bottom of the carb a little more than normal but neither one helped. Adjusting the choke didn't help. Adjusting the timing (on the steering wheel) didn't help. Finally it quit at a stop sign and I had to let it sit a few minutes. I turned on the ignition so that the electric pump could run for awhile before starting, and then it started and ran OK for me to get home. It seems like maybe the engine runs fine until the first bowl of fuel at the carb runs out, and the fuel isn't replenished so that the engine is starved for fuel. As I mentioned, this does not happen when the temperature/engine is warm. Does a colder temp cause the electric pump to have a harder load? Do I need to adjust something other than the choke to compensate for cooler weather - it doesn't seem like the choke is the problem anyway because it initially runs fine and then later acts up. Plus the choke doesn't make more fuel flow, it just restricts the air. Thanks.