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Thanks Bob for the suggestion to check out Bob's. I did contact Olsen's Gaskets and Francis there said that he could cut felt gaskets to my dimensions, but he didn't know the specific dimensions needed for a '29 standard. So he referred me to Tony Bult (he is well known for restoring '29 Masters) but I think Bob's should be fine. It seems like I always have a list of stuff to buy from Bob's anyway, so I will just place an order to include new rear seals. My car seems to be running much better now since replacing the heat riser tube, cleaning the carb, and getting a new battery. If I can get the rear leak fixed or at least reduced, I should be able to go back to the list of things I wanted to do to improve the car rather than just fix things that break

OK, so I would like to try higher viscosity oil first, and if that doesn't help much, then look at the seals. However, if I check the seals I don't know what I am looking for - I know I have to take the wheel off first (with a puller) but once that is done will it be obvious where the seals are located? And does anyone have dimensions for the rear felt seals such that I could make/buy new ones to replace them before the wheel comes off (before I see them for the first time)? Thanks.

4 glass headlamp lenses, all have the DB emblem milded into glass at top and all measure 8 1/4" in dia at widest point: 1 set, each with rope seals - $30/set of 2 1 lens like the 2 in the set, but corner of glass is cut as shown in photo - $10 1 lens like the others, but "SPREADLIGHT" molded into glass, this lens has several small pits/black specs of foreign material - $10 or buy entire set of 4 lenses for $40 3 different metal gauge plates - see photo - the 2 oil gauges are different from one another. Speedo gauge is marked Johns-Manville. $12 for all three. 2 dashboard lamp holders. I believe these are for DB but they could be generic. $5 each shipping is in addition to the prices listed - will attempt to only charge actual shipping cost

Thanks everyone for the help - especially michaelod ...your answer makes sense as I substituted the highest viscosity gear oil I could find at the local stores, which is 85w-140. So I will try the right stuff now that I know where to get it and I bet you are correct that it will solve the issue. Actually I think Little Dearborn in Miineapolis/St. Paul also may also carry 600W oil so I will go there on Saturday. Thanks again everyone - it really helps to get this feedback. john

I have a leak near the rear passenger-side wheel and am pretty sure it is differential fluid. There is a spot on the floor immediately under the "port" shown in the middle of the attached photo (you can see a bead of fluid just about to fall). Some fluid may also be travelling down along the axle to the differential pumpkin, and a spot occurs on the floor there as well. I am pretty sure the pumpkin is fine - no loose bolts and no signs of a leak there. i don't know the purpose of the "port" as shown in the photo, but I assume there is some kind of seal somewhere that has broken. Does anyone have info on how to fix this and what might be wrong, and what the seal material is? I don't know anything about the differential except how to add more fluid. Thanks. John

There is also a 1927 4-door Buick sedan, about 3 years older than the one in your photo, for sale at Ellingson Classic auto in Rogers, MN. Price = $16950. There are a bunch of photos online at http://www.ellingsonclassiccars.com/inventory/?f[make_name]=Buick&inventory=all I have not gone to see this car yet myself, but Ellingson is located about 2 blocks from where I work. From the photos it looks like a sharp car.

Looking for an exhaust manifold for a 1929 Model 27 (116", Standard series). It is possible that one from a 1930 40-series may also fit.

Thanks everyone for all of the ideas. I got it started yesterday and it sounds great now. I think the carburetor needed a good cleaning because that seems to be what made it go. However, while re-assembling the manifold last week after replacing the heat riser tube, I put a crack in the exhaust manufold starting at the heat riser port. My first try using high-heat JB Weld to fix it didn't hold, but I will try again. I am also working to get a replacement manifold. So I can't drive it yet, but getting it to start again was a big deal so overall I am happy. John

Need the crank handle for a Standard Thanks John

I put a crack in mine while re-assembling it this weekend, so am looking for a replacement. I need one for a standard (116" wheelbase) engine. Can be rusty or nicer. Thanks.

Last summer I drove my car several times and although it was not a great starter I always could get it going. However, since last September I have not been able to start my car. I replaced the heat riser tube, and confirmed that I have spark at all 6 plugs and at least minimal compression on all cylinders (compression was about 55, 55, 55, 30, 50, 50 psi on cylinders 1 - 6). I also am positive that gas gets to the carb bowl. I try starting 4-5 times and the engine cranks but never fires. Starting fluid does not help. Also, I removed the spark plugs afterwards and they are dry. However, gas drips out of the air cleaner by the time I stop attempting to start. I just took apart and cleaned the carburetor. The nozzles do not appear cracked and after cleaning they are not plugged. The float is OK. I do not see anything that looks wrong although I am a newbie. My guess is that the low-speed nozzle was plugged with dirt, and now I have cleaned it out. I will try to start again tomorrow, but can anybody think of something else that might explain dry plugs while the air cleaner drips fuel after several start attempts? Thanks.

Thanks Bill & Mark - I misunderstood what the other guy said; he was in fact talking about the cross-over tube. But I now know that the collars/packing are missing on my car, so I bought a set of collars. For the heat riser tube, I was fortunate to find a short piece of 1-3/8" OD tube in the scrap pile at work - we use various sizes of tubing for frames. I am not sure if 1-3/8" or 1-7/16" OD is what I need, but will try it. 1-7/16" would be much harder to find if I need it.

When replacing the heat riser tube, is there just a tube, or is there also supposed to be some kind of packing that seals up the tube on either end? Someone on a different site suggested that there should be packing and "collars" to install/locate the packing but I hadn't heard this before. I don't see any packing or collars around my existing heat riser tube, so am not sure what to think. Does anyone know?

*SOLD* Hardcover book in nice original shape. Includes sections for general maintenance, carburetor service for Carter, Ford/Lincoln/Mercry, Rochester, Stromberg, Tillotson, & Zenith carburetors, and sections for 24 different makes of cars (Buick, Chev, Chrysler, Dodge, Ford, Kaiser, Nash, Studebaker, Willys, etc). Book was published in 1952/53 and covers cars from 1935 - 1952. See attched photos for example pages. $20 + shipping. Reply to this posting or send me a message.

gebo, I think I saw a radiator cap for a '29 Buick for sale on e-bay yesterday, but I did not look too closely to see if it was correct for 1929. However, there is a web site and club devoted to just 1929 Buicks that I highly recommend. It is www.29buick.ca. There are several reference articles and photos, and I know there are photos showing all of the legitimate radiator cap versions for 1929 Buick's (I think there are 2 or 3 factory ones and another 1 or 2 aftermarket versions). The club puts out a quarterly newsletter that always includes want ads with lots of parts for sale. Fortunately for you, your car is a model in the "Master" series rather than the "Standard" series, there seems to be more parts for sale for Master cars in general. Also, once the engine is hot you will lose some water or glycol or whatever you run in the cooling system - it is normal for some to spill on the ground, although it sounds like yours spills way too soon and too much. I am often a quart or two low after driving for 15 miles in the summer.

My 29-27 was restored several years ago, but it looks like nothing cosmetic was done to the heat riser body or to the exhaust manifold (intake manifold was painted engine green). The rust on the exhaust manifold and heat riser really detracts from the look of the engine. I have seen pics of 2 or 3 other engines and it looks like they all had unpainted exhaust manifold and heat riser - but there was no rust and it looks like they were left as just bare grey iron. I can take the rust off, but then should I do anything else?

I heard that some people just block off the heat riser to prevent it from causing problems (leaks, etc). It looks to me like the best place to do that would be at the port between the heat riser and the exhaust manifold - just make a new solid gasket plate to cover the hole. Then it looks like I should also keep the large valve to the exhaust pipe fully open. Does that agree with what anyone else has done? Thank you.

I took off the heat riser body from my '29 standard to inspect the tube and I do see some small holes plus a lot of rust, so I'd like to make a new stainless tube to replace the original. I think I read once that someone "pressed in" a new one. Does that mean this tube is just a friction fit? I don't see any other means of attachment. Also, does anyone have dimensions for the original - OD, ID and length? Just in case I can't avoid destroying the old one to get it out. Thanks.

Yes, in this photoI need the one with the spring

A few people have told me that a common problem is to have rust holes in the riser tube. I knew this would effect running performance but wasn't sure if it would prevent the car from starting or not. But if Don had that happen to him, then that answers my question. I am trying to get replacement parts for the heat riser but so far no luck. However, the bolts for the heat riser to the manifold are very rusted and I am not sure I can get them loose without breaking something, so I may need an entire assembly. I do have the manuals and am working through things as I am able.

Mark, You are right, but what is weird is that the car was running OK one day, and then a few days later when I tried to start again it wouldn't do so. And I did nothing to the car in between. After several more days of attempting to start w/o success, I replaced wires and plugs, and then checked spark, but no improvement. Before replacing these electrical items I tried drying off the original plugs and that is when I noticed that they did not seem very wet considering that the carb was flooded. I am 100% positive that the new wires were routed the same as the original ones. The original wires were very bad. Maybe the original timing was off and just barely allowed the car to start. A mechanic checked the timing before I bought the car in May. Could it change that much in 4 months? I do adjust the timing between retard & advance via the steering wheel adjustment on each start - could that screw up the timing after awhile so that it needs re-adjustment? Thanks for your help.

I am using SAE 30 weight in the engine, and for the drops I added to cylinder #3 during the compression test I used either SAE30 or 10W-30 (not certain which one is currently in my oil can.) I guess at this point I am most interested in figuring out why the car won't start. It sounds like I have sufficient compression for starting (but maybe not for good power while running). I already verified spark at each plug, so I think that leaves carburetion as the only potential problem left. I know that I am getting gas to the carb because it floods after several starting attempts. So I am guessing that fuel isn't getting past the carb (plugs don't seem very wet when I remove them after flooding.) Thanks for all the comments so far.

Looking for used or new parts for 1929 standard (model 27) as follows (most wanted listed first): oil filter housing with spin-on adapter (Bob's is out of stock) Marvel carburetor - would like a spare Heat riser assy - would like a spare 2 hub caps (either early script Buick or later star design - prefer good used ones) crank hole cover - used aftermarket? brackets for rear-mount trunk behind spare tire (if such brackets exist?) - will make my own trunk gears and crank for raising/lowering windshield - missing from my car I am generally on a budget so would prefer used parts where possible. Thanks

The shop manual says 90 lbs compresion for the standard engine. But I assume that is for a warm engine? I just took readings on a cold engine (because I can't get it started) and got 50 - 60 psi on each cylinder except #3, which was only 40 psi. Adding a little oil brought it up to 45 psi. Do these numbers sound about right for a cold engine? Thanks.

I need a set of plugs for my 1929, and I just got the last 3 from Bob's. Does anyone know another source for them?