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I am looking for a driveable 1920's-30's sedan and found a 1928 Studebaker Dictator that is for sale. I don't know anything about Studebakers, especially if there is anything in particular to watch out for when checking a car out. Does anyone have advice or is there a good source of reference material anywhere that would pertain to this particular model and year? Examples of things I would like to know: 1) Are there any known or typical issues/problems with 1928 Dictators? 2) I assume this car has a wood substructure in the body; is that correct? 3) How difficult is it to replace the top? This particular car reportedly needs a new top. Anything else that I should watch for. Thank you.

I am looking for information/advice about 1930 Club Coupes. There is one for sale that I plan to look at but I know very little about Chevrolet's. Are there any know issues with this year/model, and what are original exterior/interior colors? I noticed this car does not have a spare wheel - should it? Any advice on what I should look for would be appreciated. I am interested in a car from about 1918 - 1932 but I do not have a specific make or model in mind. Also, I do not want a show-quality car but one that is mechanically sound that I can drive. I can do normal maintenance and other small fix-ups but do not want a project car. This particular Chevrolet appeals to me and it is nearby, so I would like to take a look at it. Thanks for any advice you can offer. John

I am interested in a 1929 Buick Model 116 that is for sale. I know nothing about Buicks and would like to know what to look for. What are original colors, and interior colors/material? Also, are there any known typical problems with this model? My goal is to get a running, reasonable car (but not a show-quality specimen) that I can drive. I can do a little work on it but don't want a project car. Any suggestions? I am looking for a stock car from roughly 1918 - 1932 and I do not have my heart set on any particular make or model. However, this Buick appeals to me and it is near home so I would like to at least take a look. Thanks for any advice. John

Thanks to all for looking, and as you all said, the car did sell quickly (this afternoon). I sold it to a fellow Minnesotan who is excited to finish it. Hopefully I can see it when he is done - it is a nice car.

*** CAR HAS BEEN SOLD ***For Sale: 1925 Dodge Brothers Touring car. This is a project car with an older partial restoration. The engine was tuned and was running nicely in 1987 and again in 2007 but has not run since then. I inherited this car from my father who bought it out of a junk yard in 1975. I planned to finish it but finally realize it requires more time than I have available. As far as I know it is a complete car; if there are any missing parts they are minor ones. $2700. </SPAN></SPAN> Please see my full posting in the Buy/Sell forum for details and photos. More photos available than what I have posted. I am not interested in selling individual parts from this car.

[b]*** CAR HAS BEEN SOLD *** For Sale: 1925 Dodge Brothers Touring car. This is a project car with an older partial restoration. The engine was tuned and was running nicely in 1987 and again in 2007 but has not run since then. I inherited this car from my father who bought it out of a junk yard in 1975. I planned to finish it but finally realize it requires more time than I have available. As far as I know it is a complete car; if there are any missing parts they are minor ones. Please see the photos for details; they do not show all of the parts but hopefully give you an idea of the car’s condition. There are many new parts (door handles, hub caps, step plates, front and rear floor boards, horn motor, running boards, battery box, window glass, and instrument gauge faces), some of which were bought from Romar and some of which were made by my father. Also included are many extra parts: one front and one rear leaf spring, one starter/generator, one radiator and shell, one engine hood, one front door, one speedometer, three original hub caps, about 10 extra wheel nuts, the original front window glass, a gas tank, a transmission shifter assembly and a few other random parts. There is also a hardcover Dodge Brothers Master Parts List reprint from 1927 that has several photos to help identify parts. Major things left to be done on the car include: restore upholstery and top, paint and attach front fenders, paint and assemble doors, re-paint body and dashboard, restore engine hood, re-plate wheel nuts, re-paint and attach gas tank, paint and assemble spare wheel. $2700 for everything. Car is located in a NW suburb of Minneapolis, MN. Post questions to this ad or call my cell: 763-568-8836. Additional photos available. </SPAN>

Farmallregular (Keith): I'm sorry but I don't have a steering wheel - in fact, the one I have on my car is not correct so I could use one too. I am pretty sure I do not have the running board brackets either but will look tomorrow to be sure. John

I just read in another posting that "DB Specials came with 6 ply balloon tires, nickel trim radiator shell, front and rear bumpers in either black or nickel, special blue leather upholstery, special body striping, rear view mirror, automatic windshield wiper, scuff plates, cowl lights and steel disc wheels." I have a partially-restored '25 that I thought was a Special but I don't think I have the cowl lights and rear view mirror although I believe I have everything else. Does anyone have good close-up photos of these items so I could see what I am missing? Should there be holes for the cowl lights? How did the lights wire up - in parallel with headlights? Thank you.

I don't know what car this is from. Nice shape, plated, 3 inches long (see photos) $3 plus shipping

All are in good shape - no tears and the rubber is not dried out. 3 are marked "23" and appear to be 23 inches diameter. 1 is marked "24" and appears to be 24 inches diameter. The ones marked "23" are 4 1/2 inches wide, the one marked "24" is 4 inches wide. $5 each. Thanks for looking.

(2) 1967 Ford manuals. Please see photo. $7 for the set plus postage to ship it to you. Thanks for looking.

UPDATE: The running board and nicer speedo are sold.

Various presidential bumper stickers. $2 each + shipping or make an offer on the lot of 20. Most of them have a vertical crease in the middle of the sticker. Examples of all but one are shown in the photos (the large Carter/Mondale looks a lot like the smaller light green Carter/Mondale except that it is about 15 inches long): (1) Reagan-Bush (1) John Anderson (2) Carter-Mondale (smaller, dark green) (4) Ford-Dole (1) Carter-Mondale (larger) (5) Carter-Mondale (smaller, light green) (1) Richard Nixon (1) Reagan (2) President Ford (2) Congressman MacGregor Thanks for looking!

All Items are now sold.

Bob, I just sent you an e-mail. John

Assortment of automotive items for sale (see photos): 1) Match Patch vulcanizing kits - full box $10 for all 2) Williams Accelerator kit $5 3) 0-35A ammeter $10 4) 0-10V voltmeter $10 5) set of 2 chrome windwings - bought new from Little Dearborn auto supply 25 years ago and never used - $15 for the set 6) expandable luggage rack - mounts to rear bumper - expanded width is about 42" max - $15 Shipping is extra - can be parcel post, flat rate US Mail or other. Thanks for looking!

Bob, the running board is metal, measures 56 1/4 inches long, 10 inches wide at one end and 12 inches wide at the other. More photos are added below (running board, speedos, oil gauge):

Hello MikeC5 - I am sorry but those parts I do not have (flash aprons & front apron)

Several parts for sale from 1923, 1925, and 1927 Dodge Bros. Touring autos. Prices below do not include shipping (pick-up is free!). Photos are shown below unless otherwise stated. I can e-mail you more photos if you'd like. All parts located in Minneapolis, MN: 1923/25/27 radiator shell: $10 1925 radiator (leaks, not shown in photos): $30 1923 clutch housing + brake pedal: $20 1923/25/27 gas tank (dent, hole): $20 1923/25/27 gas tank end caps (set): $5 1925 starter/generator (not shown in photots): $60 1927 speedometer - type 3850, rusty, broken glass (not shown in photos): $5 1925? speedometer - type 3850, nicer with glass (not shown in photos): $15 192? oil gauge - rusty (not shown in photos): $5 1925? left running board (not shown in photos): $10 I possibly have a few other odds and ends. As I find more I will post them or you can ask and I will see if I have it. Thanks for looking!

I have a '25 Touring that is partially restored, inherited from my father. I would love to have this running but it has been 20 years and I still haven't had the time to finish it. In addition, I would like to have a pickup or flat bed/stake truck that I could use to occaisionally haul stuff. So I am thinking maybe I would like to trade/sell what I have now and get a running truck - not one in perfect condition but nice enough to drive a couple hundred or a thousand miles a year. I don't mind doing maintenance work on it, and it can have dents, scratches or areas of bad paint, but not a project truck. About a week ago I saw a 1930 Dodge stake truck for sale for $7000 and it was almost exactly what I would be looking for. But since I don't really know what trucks are available from the 1920 - 1932 time frame, I thought I would ask here to see where I could get some pictures of the various styles that were built. I am primarily interested in Dodge, Dodge Brothers or Graham Brothers. Can someone provide me a link to some photos, catalog, sales literature, etc for trucks from about 1920 - 32? Thanks. John

OK, since copper is necessary I have more questions: 1) What copper thickness is needed on the wheel nuts? 2) The headlight rims have an old nickel finish, and I have sanded some areas down to the brass after soldering several cracks with silver solder. Do I need to remove all of the old nickel finish before I re-plate? 3) What copper thickness is necessary for the headlight rims? I will ask the plater these questions too but I don't know that he has any experience with these specific kinds of parts. Thanks for your comments.

I don't have any experience dealing with this plater - so far he is the first local one I found that will even take my small job. I am requesting Nickel, and I already sandblasted the wheel nuts. Maybe I wouldn't be able to tell, but I didn't see any evidence of copper under the nickel on the wheel nuts - I assumed it was Nickel over bare steel. The headlight rims are brass with Nickel plating on top. I know for electronic circuit boards that Nickel plating over Copper in the range 100 - 200 microinches is used under about 3 microinches of gold, so the plater's recommendation of 200- 400 microinches is double what would be used for a PC board. It is just the wheel nuts I am worried about. Should the Nickel go directly over the steel or do I need Copper in between?

I am re-plating a set of wheel nuts and a set of headlight bezels for my 1925 Touring. Does anyone have a suggestion on the thickness of Nickel plating I should use? The local plater suggested 200-400 microinches but I would lke to confirm this. Thanks.

Jan, I do have it. If you want to send me a message with an address, I will send it to you no charge. Just to confirm, I will send p/n 7838 (shaft), 813 (nut) and 927 (lock washer) as shown in the parts manual page shown here. I confirmed that these are used on left-hand drive car # 303152 - 929893 (built Jan 1919 - June 1923). John

OK, I will look tonight and see if your description fits what I have. John