jan arnett (2)

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About jan arnett (2)

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Ft. Thomas Ky
  • Interests:
    Cars, fishing, hunting, Boy Scouts, old houses


  • Biography
    I have been working on old cars since I was 14 which is a long time ago. I prefer cars pre 1930.

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  1. Have you looked in the Durant Club for help.
  2. Here is a facebook group dedicated to station wagons. https://www.facebook.com/groups/120063121347567/
  3. Here is a Cantrell ad which is similar to your depot hack. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1926-Z-AD-CANTRELL-CO-SUBURBAN-BODY-ON-DODGE-CHASSIS-WOOD/352650021835?hash=item521b944bcb:g:5zkAAOSwzt5bZzXZ&frcectupt=true
  4. Did you post in parts wanted. You should include pictures and what car and model it fits. Both my Star and Moon have the style of housing you are looking for.
  5. A lot of people do not know that there is a competing company "Autocheck" that provides the same service cheaper. They don't have a car fox.
  6. !922 Model T which I passed my drivers test in.
  7. I think Matts explanation is excellent about who reports accidents and how things are misreported. Before I retired again I audited car dealers on their CPO (Certified Preowned) performance and no one was perfect and I audited CARFAX as part of the CPO program. Once again no one is perfect. Both are TooLs to help you make a decision. Most cars that were lease turn ins were kept if they meet the CPO criteria because it is tough getting good cars and that is what concerns me about this car. A car with this low mileage is a prime CPO car and most dealers would keep it if they represented this brand. It does have a manufactures warranty which is good and you need to ask the dealers if it is up to date on its software update. Remember CARFAX is a tool and you should evaluate a car the old fashion way be having a mechanic look at it and checking the recalls.
  8. I got mine 20 years ago from Lucas.
  9. Here are the products I use. https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect-paint-job
  10. Welcome aboard. You are asking a question which you will get many answers and so far you have done every thing correctly. The only thing that will stop rust completely is new metal and even that isn't fool proof. The second thing you can do is sand blast the metal which you did and now is where you will get differences of opinion. The black pits are as you said rust pits and will ultimately rerust and the question is when. Some people like converters but I do not. Most of the good reviews come from the companies selling them. There are many products which contain phosphoric acid which I prefer. (navel jelly). If it were a smaller item I prefer electrolysis. You are correct in trying to seal the metal and you should use a epoxy primer followed by a 2K primer. I like Southern Polly products.
  11. There was a fire last night on a movie set that destroyed twenty vintage cars. https://www.msn.com/en-us/tv/news/a-total-loss-fire-destroys-set-of-hbo-series-starring-mark-ruffalo-rosie-odonnell/ar-AAB9WKA?li=BBnbfcL
  12. Mike I agree with you that who ever did the radiator did a lousy job and I would be worried about other solder points. I see that you are missing the webbing that goes around the edge of the shell. When install it should keep the hood from bouncing on the radiator. As Ivan mentioned there are different melt points for solder and I have had success using a small butane "not propane" torch and low melting point solder. I have not had success trying to repair a solder joint without taking it loose and starting over. That is a very creative way to hold the end if the hood.