nearchoclatetown

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About nearchoclatetown

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  1. Find your self a thread file, McMAster-Carr sells them. They have 8 different pitches and there is two different ones to cover almost any pitch you need. You can dress the threads with that. Decide what pitch thread you have and use the file like a real file, in ONE direction. Work your way around the diameter.
  2. The number stamped into the cowl should be the body number. It is the sequential number of your particular body style, has nothing to do with serial number.
  3. Speaking of heating fuel check out Dan Strohl's article on Hemmings Blog from yesterday about Adiabatic engines. Certainly different then a heat riser but very interesting . The whole engine is super heated including the fuel. Instead of 30% efficiency, which is normal, they get double. Combustion chambers run at 2000 degrees F.
  4. The automatic wiper is vacuum, no idea on the lock for Motometer. In the DBC collection at AACA library is a brochure about bumpers. They were a dealer approved extra cost accessory, I THINK $6 for painted and $8 for nickel. I am at the library too much, been scanning lots of DB stuff. It can be viewed in the DBC website, about 3400 Budd Manuf. photos and 2000 pages of DB letters to dealers or customers. I can almost see the new AACA HQ building from the house. I go to Latimore for shows. I am sure we will run into each other some place.
  5. My '24 has the bracket as, I THINK, they all should for that time period. What I am surprised with is that yours is painted. Usually if a car has cowl lights the shell is nickled, a deluxe model. I've found written proof the bumpers could be black or nickled, might have been $2 difference. You better get a crank hole cover before you go too far. Nice car, you don't see roadsters too often especially this late. By '25 most were closed cars. My belly doesn't fit between the door and steering wheel in a roadster.
  6. I have successfully gotten two DA manifolds to loosen up. Lots of patience and Gibbs, some heat and cool. Use a hammer LIGHTLY.
  7. If that is the original engine the truck is a '27. That is a fast four, only made in '27 and short period in '28.
  8. C-4's are very hard to find in the US. I was told they fit lots of antique tractors so there is competition for them. What does the Y mean in W16Y? I use W16's in my cars
  9. Struggling can be fun but is not always wise. Call Romar or Myres and buy a new one. They are cheap.
  10. The club store has a combined reprint of JBed's articles on tools. The L wrenches were from early cars, might have been up to '17.
  11. I knew there was something in that stash on the Marathon car but hadn't read it. Holy crap there could be skatey eight of them out there according to this letter. If every dealer had one painted exactly alike how do you know the real one?
  12. Franklinman, all of John's car and parts were sold. The DB club was able to buy the literature which was added to the club's collection stored at AACA library. You can search for items by using the online search from the library's website. A list of manuals owned by the club is on the DBC website, with publishing dates and edition numbers to help you get the correct manual. John was a good friend and is missed every day.
  13. Take a look at the DB Club website at the end of the Budd production photos. I scanned about 2000 pages of loose information that was in the John Parsons collection at AACA library. Most are letters from DB to dealers about upcoming changes or hints how to sell cars. Lots of truck, Senior, and Victory stuff I have never seen before. Some of the early stuff pertains to winter tops.
  14. Are you sure it is different from the other engine paint? Have you check with autocolorlibrary for that name? If all else fails it appears you have enough for a good automotive paint store to duplicate it. They can put it in spray cans for you too.