• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

82 Excellent

About raydurr

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/14/1970

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. My 29 runs around 28 PSI above idle, hot or cold. I think 25 PSI with the 1925s would be enough to run an external oil filter and still adequate oil to the rockers. Something to consider.
  2. Brian , how much oil pressure is normal for the 1925 Buicks? Just curious.
  3. Even though my 29 has a oil filter I still epoxied a magnet to my drain plug. This will only capture the ferrous metals and no babbit or other contaminants. I would change the break in oil after several cycles of how the engine will ultimately be used. Oil will probably need to be changed at least once a year due to moisture buildup in the crankcase. Aside from that I would probably change it anytime it begins to change color or hue. I agree with the theory of oil is cheap. When in doubt, change it.
  4. Yes, as Mark stated the heat riser tube can cause total chaos in the tuning and performance department. The heat riser repair and elimination of exhaust gas to it , is a little story of its own.
  5. I have a 1929 Master so I am familiar with your issue. Even though this condition could be many things , there are a few things one can do to try to isolate the cause. The wonderful Marvel carburetors can be a pain. I usually do not choose the easy route in life. I do prefer the challenge of originality in this area. My Marvel sometimes tends to run lean and pop back through the carburetor under acceleration or heavy load . When warmed up and under load , I can correct this by slightly and progressively closing the choke until full power can be made. If this corrects the problem it proves one thing. It proves that the ignition is working well enough to make power. It also proves that fuel delivery is adequate to make power. The issues that remain causing this lean condition are probably blocked jets , carb venture sticking / being limited in travel or the venture spring not being correct or incorrectly adjusted. I still sometimes have issues getting my carburetor to work correctly. Sometimes the enrichment circuit that the plunger is lifted out of can be a problem too. If choking of the carburetor under load has no affect on performance then ignition and fuel delivery can be an issue. One last thing is to always do your tuning with fuel that is fresh as possible.
  6. Master series (121",129" WB) engines utilize a water manifold along the drivers side of the cylinder head. Standard (116" WB) series engines use a water neck on the front of the cylinder head.
  7. As a long time owner of a 1929 Master (29-41) I can attest to the durability and bold design in the manufacture of these cars. The 1929 and the 1930 are almost identical underneath the sheet metal. The engines were probably the most heavy duty of any cars of this era. Buick supplied its engines to GMC Truck , American LaFrance and many others that require longevity. Many sawmills were Buick powered as the dependability made them extremely sought after. The chassis was built like a tank as well. If you are considering purchasing one there are quite a few thigs to consider . First is completedness. Too many missing or damaged parts can add up to exceed the value of the car. Body, especially the wood , ie. top bows, door post, etc. replacement of these are painstaking . These cars can be made into a solid, dependable driver quite easily. There is a wealth of information on the forum, ask away.
  8. The exhaust manifold casting number on my 1929 Master is 214604-3. I would be willing to bet that the 1929 and the 1930 use the same part. 1929 parts are more plentiful. I would toss it and locate a solid replacement. They are out there. Be sure to lube the gaskets and use the correct washers to secure the manifolds, otherwise you will be doing this again.
  9. What is the casting number on the exhaust manifold?
  10. I have little knowledge of other years. Maybe you could reference manuals for the specific years in determining which years had a back up lamp/brake lamp switch.
  11. The shown switch is the brake and backup light switch. Hard to find . Handle carefully.
  12. 1929 Buick fuel pump mounting bolts are straight across from each other. The 1930 has the staggered as shown. I believe they do share the same upper (fuel) housing.
  13. I would advise purchasing a reprint of the owners/operators manual . They are available. There is a great deal of info related to the correct engine timing and other tune up info. There is a small "window" that has a small cover on the front side of the flywheel housing , drivers side. The flywheel is stamped to aid in the timing procedure. How long has it been since the engine has run? If more than 5 to 10 years storage has occurred, take the time to drop and clean the oil pan. The oil can really solidify over time resulting in a oil starved engine. These engines are extremely expensive and difficult to repair if this occurs. Spend the $40 for the pan gasket and the 2 hours labor.
  14. If same as a 1929 Master shouldn't be too difficult to find. Be 100% sure that you go back with the correct cupped or beveled washer that hold the manifold to the engine. Do not overtorque. I even "lube" both sides of the gaskets. Id rather change gaskets than manifolds.