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raydurr

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About raydurr

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  • Birthday 10/14/1970

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  1. Hello. Shown is the link that may list the parts that you need. However I am not suggesting that you purchase these parts as much as I am suggesting that you use the application list to source parts from a later and much easier to find wheel cylinder. Many new replacement wheel cylinders are under $10. In that case, if the new wheel cylinder contained the correct pistons, you could throw the cylinder housing away and have the new parts that you need.Just a thought. Good luck. https://www.oldsobsolete.com/products-page/chevy-parts-for-sale/1951-chevrolet-parts-for-sale/1936-1969-general-mo
  2. I do not believe that there is a restrictor. I am almost positive that it is a oil drain back line that lubricates the timing gears.
  3. Hello. I am about to replace my door glasses. I have looked at the Steele companies offerings related to the door glass. Have any of you replaced your door glasses? If so which of the channels and other parts were required to do so? Were there any tricks required? I am hoping for a straight forward and easy job.
  4. Hello there Bill! I knew the two had differences but you have helped again. Thank you.
  5. Hello Does anyone happen to know the correct casting number for the water pump for a 29 Master?
  6. I think that your 1928 would have great similarities as my 1929 Buick. On mine the escutcheon turns separately from the crank/knob. The escutcheon should have male threads that will thread into the mechanism housing. The reason that the escutcheon wont turn separately from the handle is due to the pot metal that was used then. Parts produced in that era are subject to high failure rate. The parts tend to grow and almost seize to each other. I have had issues with them on my 29. Sometimes they can be freed up and sometimes they cant. I used to use PB Blaster in the process.
  7. Back to the intake and exhaust manifold studs and hardware. Your original hardware looks very usable. I would disassemble and clean the studs and washers. I would probably replace the nuts.
  8. Engine noises can be tricky to pin point, even with experienced ears. Valve train tends to be more common than other sources. Accessories including fuel pump can be a cause. Excessive play in components operated by the camshaft can affect camshaft life. The constant hammering can eventually take its toll. Piston slap / wrist pin noise. Sounds produced by this is not good but the engine can probably be babied and used with caution for a fairly long period of time. Main bearings can be noisy at times but these old engines can limp by for a long time as long as oil pressure remains stro
  9. Mr Engle is correct. My 1929 has freeze plugs behind the lifter covers. They are prone to rust through which yields coolant in crankcase oil. I might have removed all spark plugs and left oil drain plug out while pressurizing the cooling system to determine the source of the leak.
  10. I do not recommend attempting to rebuild your own fuel pump.The first reason is the scarcity of the pump and parts. There is a fair amount of expertise in rebuilding these correctly without causing damage. Most of the larger rebuilders have some spare parts that may work to replace your broken or worn parts. Pushrod length is critical to the life of your fuel pump. Excessive slack can produce a hammer effect which can damage the fuel pump parts and the engines camshaft. Surely someone reading has a engine with the correct pushrod length that could be measured.
  11. All this coolant knowledge makes my head hurt. On my 1929 Buick I cleaned the system as best as I could. After this my coolant circulated so fast that it foamed out of the radiator. I put an inline thermostat in the system, it completely cured the foaming over. For coolant I use 2 gallons of full strength Peak or Prestone anti freeze. I also use a coolant conditioner that is used in almost all commercial diesel engine cooling systems. I use the Fleetguard branded product. I think it is all produced by Nalco , regardless of the packaged brand.I have seen inside diesel engines 15-20 years o
  12. To prevent a cracked exhaust manifold be sure to use the correct type beveled flat washers under the manifold nuts. I even lightly grease both sides of my manifold gaskets. Watch the fastener torque as well. The hardware must allow some thermal expansion during use.
  13. More than likely the slack that you are experiencing is play in the advance mechanism. This is totally normal. You can check your timing with a timing light. If the mark stays fairly steady throughout various engine speeds you are ok. If the mark is all over the place then you could have wear in the drive gears, breaker plate, points or the advance mechanism.
  14. Many Buick cars had really good owners in terms of good maintenance and little abuse. There are 80 year old cars with engines that have not been rebuilt that still perform well. They tend to leak a little but perform well. In many ways I would prefer an unmolested engine to one that has been rebuilt by someone with no expertise in that series engine. Chances are if your car has good hot oil pressure that your oil clearances are acceptable. It would not hurt to inspect all the bearings but small imperfections don't mean an overhaul. Rings would certainly help. A cylinder head rebuild could poss
  15. How has your oil pressure been? Especially at hot idle?
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