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About raydurr

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  • Birthday 10/14/1970

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  1. All this coolant knowledge makes my head hurt. On my 1929 Buick I cleaned the system as best as I could. After this my coolant circulated so fast that it foamed out of the radiator. I put an inline thermostat in the system, it completely cured the foaming over. For coolant I use 2 gallons of full strength Peak or Prestone anti freeze. I also use a coolant conditioner that is used in almost all commercial diesel engine cooling systems. I use the Fleetguard branded product. I think it is all produced by Nalco , regardless of the packaged brand.I have seen inside diesel engines 15-20 years o
  2. To prevent a cracked exhaust manifold be sure to use the correct type beveled flat washers under the manifold nuts. I even lightly grease both sides of my manifold gaskets. Watch the fastener torque as well. The hardware must allow some thermal expansion during use.
  3. Restoration Supply Company has 12-24 nuts in brass.
  4. More than likely the slack that you are experiencing is play in the advance mechanism. This is totally normal. You can check your timing with a timing light. If the mark stays fairly steady throughout various engine speeds you are ok. If the mark is all over the place then you could have wear in the drive gears, breaker plate, points or the advance mechanism.
  5. Many Buick cars had really good owners in terms of good maintenance and little abuse. There are 80 year old cars with engines that have not been rebuilt that still perform well. They tend to leak a little but perform well. In many ways I would prefer an unmolested engine to one that has been rebuilt by someone with no expertise in that series engine. Chances are if your car has good hot oil pressure that your oil clearances are acceptable. It would not hurt to inspect all the bearings but small imperfections don't mean an overhaul. Rings would certainly help. A cylinder head rebuild could poss
  6. How has your oil pressure been? Especially at hot idle?
  7. Start by inspecting your camshaft lobes closely. Engine use with bent pushrods can damage the hardface on the camshaft. Piston pin wear and piston slap can all cause noises. These noises can change with a change in engine temperature. How good was your oil pressure ? Now would be a good time to service you oil pump. If pressure had been low before , you may consider raising the oil pressure with a shim in the relief valve spring area. As long as rod and main clearances are not extreme you can use your car for many miles with it making a little noise. You can easily spend thousands on a correct
  8. Sorry to hear about your breakdown. At least you weren't on the Peking to Paris route. Looking at your photos the bolt circle where the fan attaches to the hub looks almost the same as my 1929 Buick. 1929 parts seem to be much more plentiful than 1931 parts. Someone may have a spare .
  9. If unable to locate a set you may have to have a custom set made. Look to Smith Brothers in Redmond Oregon . Perhaps they can duplicate what you need.
  10. Bill that is great news. I will admit that I never had to tickle the clutch disc in my clutch but it seems like they may be slightly accessible via the small holes in the flywheel. After posting last time, I remembered a second time my clutch stuck. It came free after maybe 50 yards too. I don't view it as a big deal , but it can definitely be a surprise.
  11. Bill your car is punishing you for ignoring her for such a long time. My car had a stuck clutch after being dormant for about ten years. I got it warmed up on jack stands . I got it out into the open by towing . I started it in first gear and proceeded to drive it with the clutch pedal on the floor. I took about five minutes of throttling up and down and actually popping the throttle several time. I knew not to be too aggressive. It suddenly came loose and has worked well since. If this doesn't work you may have to hold the clutch pedal down with a stick and gently pry the friction plates apar
  12. Engine vacuum is at its lowest when the engine is at highest load ,such as full throttle. The tank IS vacuum operated so low vacuum is probably the largest issue. The other is that fuel demand is highest at full throttle. I know that no one wants to drive while watching a vacuum gauge but it could be used as a tool to learn various hill climbing techniques . It can also be useful in assisting with reducing fuel consumption when on flat ground.
  13. JD you may have to back the packing nut off and add some additional packing. Don't put too much compression on the packing. It can overheat the shaft and the packing. Usually just tighten until the leak stops. You can also check the temperature of the packing area by hand while the engine is running. Do this after engine has been at a fast idle for a few minutes. My 29 car seems to always seep a small amount . I just accept it along with the other small flaws.
  14. Completely rebuilt fuel pump. Compatible with todays fuels. Internal linkages replaced if needed. Ready to bolt on. $525.00 . Photos available. Email: lizdurrett@yahoo.com.
  15. A brand new carburetor would ruin all the running bad, popping back and flooding. A Buick without a Marvel would be boring. LOL
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