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About raydurr

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  • Birthday 10/14/1970

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  1. Bill that is great news. I will admit that I never had to tickle the clutch disc in my clutch but it seems like they may be slightly accessible via the small holes in the flywheel. After posting last time, I remembered a second time my clutch stuck. It came free after maybe 50 yards too. I don't view it as a big deal , but it can definitely be a surprise.
  2. Bill your car is punishing you for ignoring her for such a long time. My car had a stuck clutch after being dormant for about ten years. I got it warmed up on jack stands . I got it out into the open by towing . I started it in first gear and proceeded to drive it with the clutch pedal on the floor. I took about five minutes of throttling up and down and actually popping the throttle several time. I knew not to be too aggressive. It suddenly came loose and has worked well since. If this doesn't work you may have to hold the clutch pedal down with a stick and gently pry the friction plates apart from the steel plates in the clutch assembly. Good luck.
  3. Engine vacuum is at its lowest when the engine is at highest load ,such as full throttle. The tank IS vacuum operated so low vacuum is probably the largest issue. The other is that fuel demand is highest at full throttle. I know that no one wants to drive while watching a vacuum gauge but it could be used as a tool to learn various hill climbing techniques . It can also be useful in assisting with reducing fuel consumption when on flat ground.
  4. JD you may have to back the packing nut off and add some additional packing. Don't put too much compression on the packing. It can overheat the shaft and the packing. Usually just tighten until the leak stops. You can also check the temperature of the packing area by hand while the engine is running. Do this after engine has been at a fast idle for a few minutes. My 29 car seems to always seep a small amount . I just accept it along with the other small flaws.
  5. Completely rebuilt fuel pump. Compatible with todays fuels. Internal linkages replaced if needed. Ready to bolt on. $525.00 . Photos available. Email: lizdurrett@yahoo.com.
  6. A brand new carburetor would ruin all the running bad, popping back and flooding. A Buick without a Marvel would be boring. LOL
  7. Try this. https://rogerbrownco.com/product/diamond-a-8235-435x12-roller-link/ https://kscdirect.com/search_results.php?q=435X1%2F2%22&f=
  8. Robert you can find 435 chain and connecting links on the Motion Industries website. Diamond chain offers it in a 3/8" and a 1/2" width. Its a fairly uncommon chain. I have never seen it used. I checked the Rex-Rexnord catalog first. Rex sort of wrote the book on industrial chain. They must have discontinued it.
  9. Terry I know that you are far ahead of me on these Buick engines but the water pump impeller looks to be turned in a passive direction. Im not trying to alarm you at all. Im sure you have it right. It just looks strange to me.
  10. Well your car having a fuel pump makes the engine a 1929 and up. The mechanical fuel pump is the sole source of fuel delivery 1929 and up. It can be rebuilt. They are extremely fragile as is the die cast carburetor like you have. The crappy diecast metallurgy was the culprit. The mechanical AC pump was adequate with a updraft carburetor. I feel that your engine is the Standard engine. If it has a water manifold running above the intake and exhaust manifolds then it is a Master series engine. Your car still has the infamous Marvel heat riser. There are volumes of information here about that. Good luck on the brakes. You will eventually get it figured out. Everything there looks really solid. Have fun.
  11. Many fuel sediment bowls had a fine mesh brass screen that set up, inside the housing. Between the screen and gravity settling out water and solids, filtration should be good. Many tractor restoration parts suppliers have the screen and the sediment bowl gasket.
  12. This type lug wrench was commonly used in the 1920s. Little leverage yields low torque.
  13. Ok Bug. Your car has 5 wheel clamps, not 6. So if your chassis is a 1929 it is a 116" or STANDARD series car. Master series uses 6 wheel clamps. Only Australia had small series roadsters in 1929. Someone could have made it into a roadster. Does your engine have a mechanical fuel pump? If so then it is 1929 up. Pot metal carburetor is 1929 up. What is the number on the underside of the fuel bowl? Starts with a 10- ? Post a photo of the left side of the engine.
  14. If your wheel system uses the 5 or 6 clamps , near the tire , where the fellow meets the wheel , the torque is pretty low. To support this look on Ebay at Jaxon wheel lug wrench. Note the small amount of leverage available with this tool. If you over torque you will damage the clamp and the fellow. The correct clamps are getting difficult to find. Do not over torque.
  15. You may need to slightly file the points. I have had to scuff brand new points to get them to work.