Jump to content

Bob Zetnick

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Bob Zetnick's Achievements

5,000+ Points

5,000+ Points (5/7)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges



  1. Thanks all for the great ideas and sources. I guess I was so focused on rubber that I couldn't think of other things. Anyway, I have a number of directions here.
  2. Thanks for the photo! Looks very nice!
  3. That's a good idea! I know that belting is strong.
  4. I'd love to see them when you have the time...I've see leather ones on the little "footman loops".....my rubber ones are T-shaped....the "T" fits inside the door and screwed down ends are secured w/ a metal piece and 2 screws.
  5. Does anyone know where I can get reasonably priced, steel /rubber door check straps? I've seen them all rubber, but the wind caught a door and broke it and a door hinge. I remember taking apart my car years ago and they were originally made of thin steel and covered in rubber. Steele Rubber seems to have these, but $175 - $200 a pair! Just wondered if anyone else knew where I could get them somewhat cheaper.
  6. Thanks for photo. My contact doesn't look like that....mine is more like the end of a wire with some solder in it. I'm sure part of my problem along with bad wire insulation.
  7. If I remember you have a '29.....I have a '29 DA sedan so setup may be different. My horn wire runs from button at steering, down to Clum switch and out to horn. I had an issue with horn not working at times to sounding off when I turned the wheel. I tested the horn and it was fine...I have a 20A fuse at the amp gauge which is what was recommended. Temporarily I've grounded horn at the firewall and used a toggle switch to operate horn. Pretty sure my problem is at horn button contact...or insulation is worn through at horn wire and contacts w/ metal tube down steering column
  8. Could it be a 1912 Premier? I know my photo is a 7-passenger touring, but on the Model 4-40 the front and rear fenders seem to match, headlights and cowl lights seem to match, the upper door panels seem to match (though in my photo the panels are picked out w/ pinstriping vs. the contrasting, painted molding on original photo)....also radiator shape w/ round emblem.....so many makes at the time, so a little hard to pinpoint.
  9. The curve of the cowl, minimal belt molding, sunvisor design, hood louvers and especially the 4 hinges at the front door make me think this is a 1923 Buick....you could get the disk wheels for these in lieu of the wooden wheels shown. Agreed w/ others this is very 1920s clothing. Photo was shot w/ the Palace of Fine Arts in San Francisco as background.
  10. Well done! She's beautiful! I bought my DA 50 years ago too. I have to remember to wear tennis shoes and not clunky hiking boots as when I press on the brake many times I'll be revving it up w/ the gas pedal at the same time.
  11. https://www.bobsspeedometer.com/ should be able to help.
  12. I used heavy paper gasketing.....about as thick as a magazine cover....think I used 2 layers
  13. Very interesting article. I had no idea early all-steel bodies were so problematic.
  14. I had rust issues w/ my valves too even though I had an oily coat on them too...turns out my head gasket was leaking.
  • Create New...