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About tonybuick

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  • Birthday 03/28/1966

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  1. thanks for that they are heavy i can remeber when i took mine out i will give it a go as you have suggested i have been asked to help another buick owner put his back onto his car he removed it for repair and used crow bars etc to get it out and he bent the shaft from the starter pedal the water pump is still on the car but it would save time to leave this on and fit starter motor again the tapered pin etc has been removed i did my starter gen up when i did my car up and i haver never had to thouch it again thanks tony
  2. hi which screws do you remove you have to remove the two that hold the sheet metal cover off as its trapped by the pump drive do you mean the 3 screws that hold the housing around the disbuter drive gear if you took that and that gear off you would free up a lot
  3. can you remove the starter motor with out removing the water pump i always remove my water pump first but could you slide the drive dog foward on water pump and get the motor out asking for a fellow buick owner thanks tony
  4. i think you should carry on when you get it running right you will never look back good starting better miles to the gallon and with the new set up and fuel pump you can take on long and high hills and it will keep going like a train you will need to fit a fuel pump but its also a new carb with a good float and seat so it will handle the pressure from the fuel pump marvel carb wont you can get a low pressure high flow fuel pump we make some in new zealand in 6 and 12 volt i dont belive you will melt pistons the carb dosent pump fuel in the engine has to suck it and the new car
  5. i have a freind in the north island who is doing up a 26 buick what is this for my 25 dose not have one looks like some sort of oil filter thanks tony
  6. hi so Are you changeing to 12 volt to make the electronic ignition work when i did my car up i fitted a hq holden disburter to it just a little lathe work kept the points cap etc cheap for replacement parts
  7. hi all the small 25 do go well and they dont seem to break down very often which is good i new someone who had a 1928 and a 25 and he thought the 25 was better car to drive and gave less problems put the top down fill the tank enjoy it we can do about 200 miles on a tank and by then i have had enough for the day heavey steering and watch the breaks in the wet
  8. well done now go for a 100 mile drive run it in change oil then try and wear it out
  9. hi what year is the ford mount needing a mount for a another projet thanks
  10. hi the scoll ends look smart i dont mind copies on these sort of items as it will be stronger and wont break the hard part would be finding a good patteren its got scrolls on the round cap as well i had all my door handles re cast dont have to worry about them breaking
  11. Report post x #9 Posted Friday at 11:39 PM Thread and ID is obviously critical. On ebay I was lucky to find this pot metal survivor, and it survived the replating process too. Installed on my 27-25 and even though it's for 1925, I think it still looks appropriate. hi all i like this and its for my year(
  12. Yea marks on flywheel are very hard to see if you have trouble ill try and take a picture when i finsh work thanks
  13. First is is exhaust there should be some timing marks on the flywheel which line up with marks on the left side of engine and you can then use a timing light from memory there are a 100 teeth so every tooth is 3.6 dregs if you want to advance it i don't advance mine to much
  14. Is the clutch working between the starter and water pump it should only work one way when engine running it drives genset when cranking it slips as you can't turn motor from starter motor and from front grears
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