27donb

I liked these, just because of the great colors. I think they are 1926 model cars.

1924 Model 45 Six Cylinder 5 Passenger Touring

1927 Buick Touring...Now, other people, experts if you will, who know far more than I, have said that by this time, the ad for the Buick Touring was a compilation of features from more than one model. It was my understanding that the Standard Six Sport Touring, which I own, was in the color scheme shown. But, the car in pictured is clearly a Master model, with nickled headlights, but should have a brown upper body. So there is the combination for the ad, and I agree with the experts.

My apologies for the pictures below. I wanted to share more of my ad collection, but they are framed and hanging in my modest "Buick Foyer" entryway of my house, and trying to get a good non reflective picture of them without me staring back at you is nearly impossible. I took them mostly at an angle that would minimize the reflection, so think of it as a walk through instead of scanned pictures that could be shared. 1927 54CC Convertible Coupe And here is a painting my late Grandmother did of her son in laws Buick (then my Dad's, now owned by me)

Thanks for capturing and sharing such a great accomplishment! Congratulations!!

I do totally understand, keeping or trying to keep things original. Back in the day, this carburetor heat system had a place. But if you are not going to use it as intended, then why keep the butterfly valve in the exhaust stream at all? I positioned my butterfly valve in the open position, brazed the shaft in place to seal it to the valve housing, and cut out the butterfly. No exhaust restriction, no movement of the valve. Then I hooked up the linkage as best I could, ran a control rod up through the firewall, and use the heat control lever on the dash for my wolf whistle. Definitely not as clean and original as yours Hugh, as I am not using the Marvel, so the throttle valve is unused as well.

I have never lowered the top on my touring cars, but did you know that there is an 8 step procedure to do so? Hopefully you all have been following it! Enjoy! -General Motors Export Company 1926 Motor Car Operation and Care-

I think the tapered surfaces should be dry. The key is the locator, the taper is the driver of the wheel. If the tapers loosen up and you drive on them, the fit will never be the same. Ask me how I know. I always advise if the hub and shaft taper fit is together and tight, leave it together and leave it alone if possible. This is easier to do on Masters as the wheel and shaft can be removed as an assembly after removing the drive flange nuts on the drive hub. The Standard, as you know, the taper must be separated to remove the wheel for brake work, etc. As far as oil or grease getting in the area after the taper is seated, I have never worried about it. As long as the taper is tight and dry at the start.

I don’t know the answer. However, what would it hurt to put them in? Hard or impossible to see, and will possibly protect and prevent a squeak or rattle.

Beautiful job Hugh. I never considered striping my own wheels, I don’t know if I would have the patience! Yours are sure coming out great.

Also radiator shell on 20's Buicks.

Beautiful job, Happy New Year Gary!

Beautiful rims! Painted or plated?

Those are two different looking valves for sure. If a modern valve could be found that looked the same, or similar enough, it could be painted black to hide the modern finish.

Never found it necessary to retard spark for starting. And I do not possess the strength to hand crank the Buick 6 to try and start it that way.

I will, Thank you!

I am currently sticking the tanks in 2 of 3 Buicks, but I still would like to put a gauge in the empty gauge hole.

Thank you Larry, your Standard gauge came out perfect.

Looking for a gas gauge for my 24-45, mine is missing.

1928. I believe 1928 was the first year for an adjustable front seat also. The other big differences that I can remember is that 1924 ro 1927 had very similar fenders, Dash, headlights and parking lights. 1923 and 1928 were different styles. 1924 was the last year of the four-cylinder engine. It was also the first year for four wheel brakes. 1925 was the first year of the master 6 series. 1926 gave you a headlight dimmer switch on the steering column near the horn button, and lowered the headlight crossbar to attach between the headlight brackets instead of the headlight bodies, which meant left and right headlights were now the same instead of having to be specified left and right. Also the starter generator was replaced with a separate starter and a separate generator. And it was 1926 or maybe 1927 when the speedometer and light switch on the dash swapped places, once they realized that you didn't need the light switch close to the driver anymore because you could dim the headlights from the steering wheel, so they put the speedometer more in front of the driver instead of way over to the right. 1927 got you a one piece windshield instead of a split windshield for open cars.

Is the fuel gauge on the tank, or is it a gauge on the dash? Either way, as previously mentioned, it may be the float has sunk.

Sorry for the delay, I almost forgot to do this today. I think I may have trimmed off some of the screen already to get it to the right length, it was awhile ago and I don't remember. I know that somewhere I have the overall length of the tube, fitting and screen written down, but I have to find it so I can position it properly before soldering. The outside diameter is about 3/8".

I bought a Volkswagen one, but haven't soldered it on yet. https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111209147A