27donb

Hugh, I have updraft Carter BB-1'on my 27's. I recently took one apart thinking I had a carb problem (turns out it was a bad coil) and found it interesting that there are no rubber parts, just some fiber washers and a paper bowl cover gasket. Brass accelerator pump! My 27-54CC sat for over 20 years, and was started and ran another 25 years before I took the carb apart as described above, only to find there were no carb issues. It is mounted on a later riser with an adapter with riser butterfly valve removed, and carb heat blocked off. You could also fabricate a simple pipe riser with 2 flanges, like on my 24. Obviously you are giving up some originality but the drivability benefits outweigh that in my opinion. The downside is there is some linkage modification required, and the intake horn is angled, making fitting any kind of air cleaner a challenge.

With pot metal levers and switch body, the ignition lighting switch is commonly swapped out for one that has survived better and may not have seized or broken levers. Yet. The same holds true for speedometer, which is why there are a lot of pictures on the net of cars with mis matched gauge faces, or even modified dashes with different gauge and switches installed. It's more likely that cars have their original transmissions and shifter lock.

I think the idea was, on busy city streets, the driver would flip the lock button in his door, and everyone exits stage right. Lock the passenger side outside door handle, and the car is "secure". They might enter the car the same way, just slide across the front seat.

Closed cars use the inside door lock button on the drivers side, and the outside locking handle on the passenger side to secure the car.

Nothing against the Marvel, but my two 27's idle, run and perform flawlessly fuel wise with the Carter BB-1 updraft carburetor. I think this is a good move Gary, reliability and not causing problems with a new engine are sometimes more important than fighting with an original design and its inherent problems.

In perhaps a more helpful, instead of opinionated, response to your question, I use this speaker around the house and have over 500 songs on my phone to play through it. Portable and rechargeable Bluetooth technology! https://www.amazon.com/HyperGear-Waterproof-Resistant-Dustproof-Microphone/dp/B01J4HCBZG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541376197&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bluetooth+speakers+hypergear&dpPl=1&dpID=617U%2BH5xg7L&ref=plSrch Many other types available at varying prices.

My daily driver has a nice stereo, my wife's daily driver does too, and some of my other good weather Sunday vehicles (1962 and up) all can play radio or mp3 music. I listen to broadcasts driving every day as well as during and after the workday. For my 1920's Buicks, I've always found that the sounds of the engine, drive train and the random sound of nature that can be found on a quiet country back road are music to my ears. It's a great escape and change from everyday technology. In addition, some of the best thoughts, conversations and special times I've had have been with my passenger while behind the wheel of the Buick.

Larry, My 24-45 tank had some pin holes after I "cleaned" the inside, so I stripped the outside looking for more, but only found 2 on the bottom. I DA'd the outside with 80 grit sandpaper, and I am going to paint the tank with a brush and use rustoleum gloss black (which I know is not even fuel resistant) , which should make it easy to touch up later if I have more leaks to fix or spills during fill ups. I was thinking about trying this stuff to try and remove some of the surface rust from the inside. The liquid, not the gel https://www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-rust-dissolver.html I had tried vinegar, but after many flushings with water, it seems I have just as much rust as before. I am leery about coatings on the inside of the tank, based on all the stories here about following proper prep and procedures, and still ending up with the coating lifting and floating around inside the tank. I recently tried to renumber the in tank gauge on my 27-25 and coat it with various fuel proof coatings, all in vain. They all washed off after the first drive, so my gauge face is blank now with just the needle to view. Oh well. I had heard about reproduction gauge faces on Ebay at about $400, if they ever come up again and I have an extra few hundreds kicking around I might consider it, but it would be a hard pill to swallow.

Good call, Gary. That made a huge difference! I put this before and after picture together for everyone to see the difference a little better. I took a liberty and flipped the before picture to a mirror view so the car would face the same direction, figured that was easier than asking Gary to reinstall the too tall springs again and take a before pic!

So true, I left the spark retarded at idle to warm up my engine on a cold morning and left it there for too long, and it started to boil over. Also, are you using 100% water, or water/antifreeze mix? Too much antifreeze can cause boil over too. Ask me how I know... ?

And after you did, how did the water jacket look? Was it as clean and clear as the pic Gary posted?

I've read and heard of that method, but in my case I was not comfortable with that much gas being in a place it really shouldn't be, in roughly the center of a car made with a substantial amount of wood. An inadvertant ignition source could result in person and property damage.

There was a supply of oil to be maintained in the hub, and the gears acted as a little pump to move the oil up to lubricate the bushing and shaft. Typically the oil leaks out and is not replenished, and the shaft and bushing wear causing a wobbling fan.

If the handle position is adjustable, I like to think some discretion can be applied to position based on the factory photos, other restorations, and your preference and comfort. In my 27 Buick and 62 VW, I sat in the cars with the door closed, windows up, then down, then where I might commonly "Crack" the window open for a little air, and noted my knee and arm and elbow position against the door, and factored that in to the choice of final handle positioning. There's nothing like traveling with a handle digging into your knee or leg, especially when you realize you could have easily avoided it by rotating a handle by 2 or 3 notches. It might be similar to saying an adjustable seat is shown all the way back in a factory photo, but not adjusting it forward for your own comfort when driving.

I've shown these pics, and told this story before, but my 27-54CC clutch was stuck solid, happened with no warning. I used an old round cake pan and washed the plates in gasoline using a paintbrush and an old toothbrush. After thorough drying, back in it went and it works again as it always did.

Is your clutch currently removed? Pictures?

I would suspect a low oil supply in the transmission, or not a heavy enough oil, or combination of both.

This is the way I was brought up and taught to shift the old Buicks. Watched my Grandfather for years in his 24-45, and my Father for years in his 27-54CC, and this is how they did it. I have seen videos of people, mostly selling an old Buick, take it for a spin and wind it up in each gear to show how fast it can go. Not a fan of that. Don't spend much time in neutral. Notice how when I stopped, I went from 3rd to 1st rapidly because I know if I left it in neutral or hesitated there for too long, I would have ground gears getting back to first, even when stopped. Get to high gear quickly, and accelerate slowly. That means short acceleration in 1st and 2nd, and wait for the engine speed to drop down, which will allow the gears to slow enough also, to get to the next gear. The only time I double clutch is sometimes when I need to downshift from 3rd to 2nd going up a hill. I've also found that each Buick I've driven is a little different, and you need to find what works for you and your car. This video I did a good job, but I usually always grind a little up shifting. You can hear a small grind going into 3rd but with the low engine speed, and low ground speed, no damage is being done. Everything was warm, and I use Penrite Transoil 250 (600W) full up to the bottom of the check hole in the transmission to help slow the gears down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7glHBYXXf80&feature=youtu.be

Standard equipment on all models, starting in 1926. 1926 models had a flat type filter container, mounted on the passenger side firewall. 1927 models had a round canister type filter, mounted in the same place. My 27-25 Standard and 27-54CC Master have the same filter setup as standard equipment.

Oil filters were standard equipment on Buicks starting in 1926.

The original canister is a throw away, like a modern spin on filter is a throw away, no disassembly possible without destroying it. I really think it comes down to just that, whether or not you want to keep the original look, or not. The Bob's filter is a one time investment, after that the spin on filter inside is $10 or less to replace.

This keeps the original look, but houses a modern spin on filter inside. https://bobsautomobilia.com/oiling-system/26-28-repro.oil-filter-with-spin-on-inside-.-of-278a/

Certainly not a stock part, the combination ignition lighting switch already comes with a built in circuit breaker.

Approximately 9 7/8" overall, 1 3/16" wide near the rumble seat, tapers to 1" wide at the middle, then to 1 1/4" wide near the scroll end.

Don't forget installing a computer too to control when the airbag deploys, just like on a modern car. And make sure the airbag is one big one that completely envelops you, so in case of an accident you can roll out of harms way like a beach ball! ;D