B.Liesberg

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About B.Liesberg

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  1. Alright, I picked up another head nearby, and I'm going to have it magnafluxed, if its bad, I'll probably get yours.
  2. I just need the head, my crank is good and I want to switch away from Babbitt bearings. 1938 would probably be a good candidate though, since I know it's the same variation of the 320 as mine.
  3. I found a guy in LA that has a head for $75, it doesn't look quite the same though. Serial number is in the 800,000's and mine is around 1,300,000, will they still work? What do you want for yours? a NOS head would probably be my best bet for one with no issues. Could ship it freight.
  4. As little as possible is my goal, this rebuild is racking up the bill fast.
  5. As the title suggests, I'm rebuilding my 1939 320, and am looking for a new head. Would also like to find some insert bearing rods to replace the original babbitt rods (I know I can get mine redone, but that's expensive).
  6. Didn't realize there was a response to this. Based off of old ads and the manual I ordered which lists variations in the truck models, we've confirmed that it's a '28 AA Capitol 1 ton.
  7. Does anybody have a spare set of 320 rods that will take insert bearings? I'm planning on doing an engine rebuild and I'm trying to avoid paying $90/rod from Kanter.
  8. Hello! A friend & I just purchased what we think is a 1928 Chevrolet Capitol 1 ton truck. We're not really planning on restoring it as we have some other cars that need more time & money put into them, but we'd like to get what's left of it running to have some fun in. Anyhow... I don't know a lot about Chevrolet trucks of this era, what are some differences we can look for to determine if it's a Capitol or a National? We're thinking it's a Capitol due to it only having rear brakes (the Manual says the AB has 4 wheel brakes). There's no body on it apart from fenders, lights, what's left of the radiator shroud, and a cowl that we are unsure is original to the car. I can try and take some pictures to-morrow and post them up.
  9. I think I found the problem... Most of the wiring is original and a bit brittle. Looks like the oil pressure line popped out of it's clip and started chafing on the wire bundle going to the starter and shorted the switch wires.
  10. I don't really have any issues with not having this part, if anything it seems superfluous. I just wanted to check and see if there were any known problems with the solenoid before I get too deep into it. I'll try and diagnose some wiring problems and see if I have an issue somewhere.
  11. There is nothing on the carb with wires sticking out. There was an open spot on the passenger side of the carb that looked like there was supposed to be something there at one point... I put a metal cover over it because there was a slight vacuum leak through it.
  12. There is a button under the dash to start the car.
  13. Where does the electrical system and the vacuum system meet?