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About Crazyfamily

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  1. Fantastic info Hugh and exactly what I was looking for!! i really do want to remove all the gauges and the switch housing and refurbish all of them, including new nickle the bezels! Next year I am planning on a new interior so my plan is to do the dash and gauges/switch housing at that time. Yes please Message me about lever. As always sharing your knowledge and experience is greatly appreciated Sir!
  2. Not to high jack the post but only because you all know I’ve been struggling w this switch and it’s on topic! i wasn’t able to remove the switch housing but I was remove the wiring plate from the back of the switch and the “tap” the broken and frozen light switch out from the back! does anyone have a blow up or assembly guide for the switch? I tried to keep each component in order it was removed however murphy’s Law I took my 100 LB chocolate lab and of course he stepped right on the pieces and then scattered everywhere!!!!!! any guidance is appreciated! The ball bearing and spring even came out! Also since my gauges and switches have plenty of Patina at this point, I need a replacement headlight switch lever but obviously a new one will look way out of place! anyone have a good used one with patina on it? Of not any advice on replacing one that looks old?
  3. I’ll have to double check that switch then
  4. Great news, I’m learning it’s best to walk away and come back to something that’s driving me crazy! so back down to the car and dome light cover came right off first try! bulb looks to be ok, does the dash light have to be on for the dome light switch to work? I don’t have the battery here at the car at this time but last time I tried some light it wouldn’t come on when I tried the switch, so not sure if it’s the switch, bulb again looks to be ok, or do the dash lights have to be on for the dome light to work?
  5. Ok so I’m down at the ‘27 Buick and thinking I’ll check the compression, well just as stated above no go! My compression tester just like most others only came w 14mm long and short adaptors as well as 18mm! So I’m not understanding your fix for this @dibarlow. id be interested in seeing or hearing how I can adapt what I have to make an adaptor to fit the ‘27? As always, it is GREATLY appreciated!
  6. Many idea who sells new gauge faces REASONABLY? i still don’t see how you can reinstall without the gauge spinning in the process of putting the cap on! the only way way that makes sense is if the locating ring , not sure the correct term for it but the thing I circled in red, is welded to the neck permanently then install the gauge, then stack the gaskets and glass and screw on the cap?? Also if someone offers a new dial/face for sale reasonably then I’d buy a new one but if not then I’ll be either soldering on brass indicators for E thru F so they are impervious to gas, or my Wife will use fuel tank coating in black to paint on the indicators.
  7. Thanks for input and I agree..... Ok so thus locating ring, how can I put the gauge together and then screw the whole thing onto the neck of the tank without the gauge spinning In the cap itself?
  8. Well it’s gonna have to run at an angle, when I originally took it apart the top plate that acts a keeper to hold the gauge itself in place as you tighten the cap over it and keeps the gauge from spinning, it cane off and took one to two levels of the threads w it, there is a lip that helps will lining it back up, if I solder it back in place w the lip acting as a guide then the gauge will sit at an angle which is fine w me! if I am then standing at the filler neck gassing it up then the gauge will sit at an angle facing me! i like that actually! I did find a picture of the tank when I removed it and the gauge face sat w the slit in the dial sitting parallel to the ground.....
  9. Ok time for a quick question for clarification, I didn’t take not of the position of the fuel gauge when I took tank out! so it looks like the gauge actually sits at an angle so when you stand at the fuel fill neck that the gauge dial sits at an angle like this?? is this correct? Yes we are going to restore the gauge dial as well and paint the E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and F w fuel liner so it doesn’t come off w splashed fuel OR I have another plan of maybe actually soldering on brass letters of just the E and F only onto the brushed finish face of the dial?
  10. Ok as many of you know I’ve been working to bring the 1927 Model 27 “Standard” back to life! We built a new fuel tank a few months ago and I just got around to lining it with KBS coatings fuel tank liner “Gold Standard” kit, I highly recommend their products! And for the money they are an incredible value but have the quality to back it up! So today starts the process of coating the outside of the tank and next weekend it goes back into the car along with the newly rebuilt and coated SW Vacuum Fuel pump! Just wanted to share my excitement and the tank.....
  11. Good luck and I hope it works out, does anyone know where I can get a new interior kit (door panel material, seat material, and carpet for rear for a 1927 Model 27 “Standard”?
  12. I STILL have not been able to get the dome light out of the headliner! Sometimes you just gotta walk away and forget about it for a hour or 100 hours or so!! ill try again this weekend, my goal this weekend is to remove the dome light to replace the bulb (🤞🏼 It is just the bulb!!!!) without damaging it, the headliner, or anything else! And I also do my best to remove the headlight/ignition switches out of the dash!! Wish me luck!! william crazyfamily
  13. This is kit # VTK 101 for mine but like I said the flapper is avail separately!