• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

46 Excellent

About michealbernal

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. As it was explained to me a long time age " oil is relatively cheap, engines are not", change it early and change it often. All those small pieces of metal and grit you could not clean out of the engine when you rebuilt it are floating around in that oil. Drain it out and get rid of them.
  2. Does any one out there have a starting crank for a 1928 Standard that they would be willing to part with for a fee?
  3. What an amazing project. This is the kind of thing that keep you young, keeps you thinking, using your brain. Don't stop.
  4. Ok. with fuel dripping out of the air intake you may assume fuel is getting into the cylinders. Is it possible the you have the timing 180 degrees off? When #1 cylinder fires are you sure it is on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?
  5. Although you may have put fuel into the vacuum tank, is that fuel getting into the engine? Is there fuel in the carburetor float bowl?
  6. Dracenroc and Grimy, thanks for the photos and info. Mike
  7. My 1928 standard 4 door does not have any pull strap/grab handles for the read seat. Since the car was restored when I bought it I am not sure if it was supposed to have them but they got left out, they were an aftermarket accessories or a dealer accessories. Having a set of them would make it much easier to get into the back seat. Can someone supply a photo of these and tell me if they were original? Any info appreciated. Thanks
  8. Mark, thanks for the info. I replaced the water pump and hoses a couple of months ago because the pump shaft was seriously eroded due to a leak at the packing gland. The suction hose is not collasping . The car had been restored 30 plus years ago and driven about 3,000 miles but was then parked and had been sitting the past 20 plus years undisturbed so it has a number of issues to be sorted out and I am slowly working my way thru them.
  9. Hurbert 25-25 and 27 donb I thought the reason the car was heating up was that the fan belt was too loose. That does not appear to be the problem. I took off the radiator cap while the engine was running and noted bubbles coming up in the coolant. I think I probably have a head gasket out at the very least. Thanks for the info on the fan belt tension. Mike p.s. I did have the fan hub bearings replaced the sealed bearings.
  10. What do I set the fan belt tension at on my 1928 standard? The engine has the flat fan belt. I have searched repeatedly thru my numerous reference books for some indication of what the belt tension should be. The only thing I have found is that it should be "tight". I didn't find that very useful. I don't want to get it so tight that it brakes the belt or so loose that it slips. Any info appreciated.
  11. Tiny Bult, North 8301 State Highway 89, Whitewater Wisconsin 53190, 262 275 6403, tonybuick272829@gmail.com did a good job on my 1928 Standard Marvel. He has the parts including a replacment for the ever problematic pot metal venturi
  12. Herbert 25-25 So I went out to the barn and climbed up into the attic where my dad had hung several complete harness sets at least 65 years ago. I brushed the accumulated dust off and measured the thickness of the leather. On the "tugs" which are the parts that transfer the horses pulling force to the object being pulled the leather is a good 1/4 inch thick and in three layers and stitched at 1/2 inch intervals along their entire length. Next I measured the thickness of the leather on a set of reins and found it to be 3/16 inch or less. Be aware that different leather making processes result in very different leathers depending on what characteristics are desired [toughness, limberness, hardness], My suggestion would be to go to a good saddle maker and consult with him about appropriate leather for this project Mike.
  13. Hugh, Thanks for all the help, I will give them a call. I tried the testing the two valves by sucking and blowing on them and they are both holding. I suspect that the missing ring has something to do with why my tank is not functioning correctly. Thanks again. Mike
  14. Herbert 25-25 I am full of blue mud clear up to my ears. That small cup shaped piece with the hole in the center goes under the atmospheric vent tub NOT as I wrote, under the vacuum line. It is the part you labeled "vent(ring below) on the postitnote on the photo. Anyway that ring is missing from my tank. I would assume that is at least part of my problem. Do you have any idea where I might be able to obtain one of these rings. Thanks again Mike
  15. Herbert 25-25 I was able to get back to my vacuum fuel system today. I found that the small chip on the inner tank flapper valve did not effect its sealing capabilities as it was outside the sealing surface. I performed the water and suction tests on it and it held fine. I then disassembled the vacuum inlet portion of the tank top. I noticed that my vacuum inlet did not match the photos provided. There seems to be a part missing. In the photos there is a small cup shaped metal disk with a hole in the center just under where the vacuum line attached to the top of the tank. I did not find that disk in my tank. My tank is a model "N". Did they all take this disk. It appears to be an upper seat for the vacuum valve maybe. Any info. appreciated. Thanks. Mike