michealbernal

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About michealbernal

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  1. PLEASE, don't throw them out. Once they go to the dump they are gone for good and no one can get any use from them. There is someone out there looking for them, it's just a matter of finding that person. Please put them on ebay. Who cares if they dont' sell like tomorrow. Maybe they guy that needs them is on vacation or his computer broke or he has the CORONA virus and so he hasn't checked in for awhile.
  2. New points? New 20 years ago or new last week? Frequently points that have sat unused for a time will develope a thin layer of oxide on them that acts as an insulator. That can be corrected by lite fileing or by pulling a clean piece of heavy paper thru them when they are closed.
  3. The wear marks on the spindle where the race rides seem to me to indicate the race had been turning on the spindle. I would suggest a replacement spindle.
  4. You might consider contacting Special Interest Autos in Texas at 800 634 2469. They advertise in Hemmings Motor News that they rebuild vacuum advance units. I have had them rebuild vacuum advances in the past and they did good work for me at reasonable prices. Possible they could assist youl
  5. I had exactly the same problem with my 1928 standard. It would start fine and run a short time and them fuel would start running out of the air intake. After rebuilding the carburetor twice, the vacuum tank twice and sending the vacuum tank to a professional rebuilder, getting it back and reinstalling it the car still would not run correctly. At that point I did a vacuum test and noted a low vacuum reading. The engine had been rebuilt a long time ago but had only been run a very short amount of time. I checked the valve clearance and found it way off. I set it to factory specifications and now the car starts and runs perfectly. I am convinced the problem was both a faulty vacuum tank and incorrect valve adjustment.
  6. Fellows, I was looking for parts for my 1928 Buick, when I saw this! Price is rather reasonable. check it out. (No affiliation to the seller, just thought it was a really good deal worth sharing) https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-FOR-1927-28-BUICK-6-CYL-CARS-1928-27-ANTIQUE/373010870528?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Db161d2d8f496478182540dd82a51ebe4%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D292317885878%26itm%3D373010870528%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DBuick&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af27b761c-9ec3-11ea-863b-74dbd1803e90|parentrq%3A4d7658921720ac3e9f7628c5ff810e11|iid%3A1 (Moderators, if I posted incorrectly, please feel free to move)
  7. Hi KEK, I see the wiring diagram lists a circuit breaker at the ignition switch. My understanding is that the early Buicks used circuit breakers instead of fuses. You might check to see if your ignition switch has a breaker or if it may have been removed at some prior time. Also it may have been bypassed ar some time in the past because it was not working correctly.
  8. I had the same problem with a starter and after working on it for some time finally discovered that when hot, one of the starter bushings was worn just enough to allow the armature to drag . Replaced the bushings and it has worked fine ever since.
  9. I have the same problem with my 1928 Standard. I have heard that there is an after market extension type kit to move the filler cap to a more accessible location. I have been looking but have not found one yet. I carry a funnel with a length of hose attached.
  10. Wow, that is a beautiful car. It has been my experience that if you don't over rev. the engine they shift much better. The car has a really long stroked engine with outstanding amounts of torque. You do not have to be going very fast when you shift. These old cars are not at all like modern cars when it comes to gear changing.
  11. My tail lite reflector is similar to yours although slightly different. Anyway all of the plating was gone from it. I took it along with several other small parts to a local plating shop and they charged me $35.00 to replate all of them. I thought they did a great job for the price.
  12. You might consider reposting this to the pre war form. There are many people with the earlier Buicks that regularly visit that site and they may be to assist you.
  13. They are "Pal Nuts" and are there to maintain the torque originally applied to the rod bolts. Wisconsin Motors which built hundreds of thousands of industrial engines of all sizes used them also. I have rebuilt numerous of those engines and always installed new "Pal "nuts on the rod bolts. Cheap insurance.
  14. I put one of the expanding plugs in my 1962 International Scout engine. The 4 cyl 152 cu in engine has a plug directly under the exhaust manifold. Anyway it has been in place for about 15 years now and has not leaked even a drop. I put it in dry. I drove it across the Utah salt flats and thru the southern California deserts during summer with no problems
  15. My 1928 Buick Standard has one similar to that on the tail lite assembly