michealbernal

I have always had good luck with the hydraulic jack method provided you don't get crazy and apply too much pressure and deform the rim. Work slowly and watch what is happening. Use just enough pressure to almost get the ends aligned and then use a large screwdrive for the final alignment. I used a very small pin striping type paint brush to deal with the minor scratches. Good luck.

I had then exact same problem with the vacuum fuel system on my 1928 Standard. I turned out to be an almost microscopic paint chip lodged in the tank valve. I only found it with a magnifying glass

This is a beautiful car.

Hub pullers with pinch bolts were designed for this type of work. If it is installed correctly with the pinch bolt drawn up really tight it should pull the hub off. Using other types of pullers may result in warping the drum or stripping the wheel lug bolt threads.

I would suggest you contact George Mcmurty and have him build you the correct puller. I had him make me one and it pulled my stuck on hub right off. Besides that it is a work of art.

I bought one some time ago at NAPA I don't know if they still have them. It would be helpfull if we knew what the make and model of the vehicle you are working on is. As long as your cooling system is in good shap it should not change the operating temp.

Squeeling usually indicates contamination on either the linning or drum or both. Contamination can be with break fluid, grease, oil or dust. I would do exactly as 60flattop says and checkfor leaking wheel cylinders, worn out/leaking wheel seals or some other source of contramination. When I was working in the repair business a 'break job' always included new or rebuilt wheelcylinders,new front axle seals as well as grinding the shoes to fit the drum. We were also required to keep everything scrupulously clean. Just replacing the shoes usually does not work out well.

Magnets are easily recharged. Any of the numerous magneto rebuilders probably have magnet rechargers. Try Marks Magneto Service 860 537 0376, or Kevins Magneto Service 309 303 2634. If they cannot help you they should know who can.

Marvel carburetors of this vintage are critical on settings. The venturi on them is made of pot metal which ''grows' over time and this can cause all kinds of problems. When I bought my 1928 Standard the carburetor settings were totally wrong. I bought Bobs Automobilias book on Marvel Carburetors and rebuilt mine using the book as a guide. My car runs perfectly now.

Mark, I forgot about a fuel pressure regulator. Old timers disease.

I have used the vacuum fuel system on my 1928 for several years. It has served me very well. I took the 6 volt after market electric pump off. My research lead me to believe a a fire is a real possibility when using an electric pump on these cars. The electric pump has the power to force fuel past the carburetor needle valve especially if the needle valve is worn. The overflowing fuel can then land on the exhaust pipe which can be directly below the carburetor. The fuel then ignites and with the almost 100 year old wood in the car it is gone in a flash.. If you are going to use an electric pump be sure you carry a big fire extinguisher and have your insurance up to date.

Hugh. I sure wish I had this info when I was working on my Marvel carb. I burned off copies and put them in my 1928 Buick file. Thanks

My friend has a 1925 Master. The water pump shaft has been eroded at the shaft sealing surface at least 1/8 inch deep. The pump needs a complete rebuild. Who is doing this type of work now? Any info appreciated. Thanks

You might consider getting one of those inferred heat sensing thermometers and doing some readings on the block and radiator core looking for hot or cold areas. This would let you know if you have clogged cooling passages and where they are. I have found that many times on older engines the rust and corrosion has a way of setteling out and becoming hardened in place and it requires the removal of the freeze plugs and prying the rust/corrosion loose with a long thin metal rod and then flushing it out. Good luck

I am trying to find a set of brushes for a 1925 Buick Standard starter/generator. Can anyone provide a resource for these parts? Any info. greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike

Try as I might I could not come up with any info. on Carb King. I did find a couple of others that I had bought parts for my Marvel carb from and they are 1. Northfield Limited has float bowl covers and metering pins. 440 786 8141 2. Old School Antiques. 262 275 6403 Has many of the internal parts

You might also try obtaining a copy of the book "Carburation in Relation to Service" by the Marvel Carburetor Co. I got my copy from Bobs Automobelia. It has numerous drawing and pictures and explains exactly how to overhaul and set up one of these units. There are several key measurements that must be maintained for Marvel Carburetors to operate correctly. I believe Carb King has parts including gaskets and floats.

I hand crank started my Allis chalmers Model M, Cletrac K20 and the Wisconson Vf4 on my wood splitter until I finally realized I was cursing for a busing and converted them all to electric start. The only thing I still hand crank to start is my Fairbanks Morse 3 hp Z engine. The crank for my 1928 Buick Standard stays under the seat. If the battery is too weak to start it I put a charger on it for a while. At 75 I don't need a broken arm.

Hugh, thanks for the info. In the meantime I was able to find the correct pin and link

You should get this repaired as soon as possible. Not only are you risking serious damage to your engine and clutch, you will soon have the entire underside of your car coated with oil. You are also spreading oil on the road. When it rains this becomes very slippery to drive on. We don't need that.

I wonder if it might be back pressure in the exhaust system caused by the malfunctioning flapper valve. Maybe the beck pressure is escaping thru a small pin hole in one of the exhaust manifold to cylinder head gaskets. I would remove the flapper valve and see how it sounds.

I treat my 1928 as a fair weather only car. These cars are 100 years old. They were never that water tight even when new and after 100 years of bouncing down the road they are definitely not water tight now. The water gets on the wood which touches the metal and causes to rust.

I would begin by putting a few drops of oil on all the pivot points on each rocker and see if it quits squeaking. It sounds like possibly a dry rocker arm.

I know the Dodge trucks from the mid to late 40s used ball studs for the bottom hinge point. The top hinge point is a ball on the end of the accelerator rod. I think that Roberts Motor Parts carries these pedals as reproductions because I bought one from them for my 1947 Dodge truck..

They show up from time to time on ebay, There was a couple of them on ebay a month or so ago. You have to watch every day because they go fast.