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About Erndog

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  1. I am so extremely impressed with what you have done here!! I have been wrestling on and off with the wood in my 1930 Buick Sedan for nearly 20 years. None of the wood was in good shape or even there in a few cases, so it has been a real challenge. I only wish it was an earlier model so I could use this incredible information. Measurements would be a God-send in my case. However, seeing such a great bit of documentation has given me a new enthusiasm. Thank you!
  2. I would check for those screws at Restoration Supply Company.
  3. Not unusual for the wire to rust away in an old hose. Should always replace the hoses, especially the lower one.
  4. Brian, I was going through some of my books yesterday and found a couple things that may or may not be of interest. The first is tune-up data for your engine from a 1938 edition of Chilton, which I am positive you have already have. The other is specific info on timing from my 1932 Dykes. It is for the Eights, but there may be some gleanable material there. Hope you get something of value out of them.
  5. You don't have a lead on a good block (center portion)? Mine has a 27" crack. 🤕
  6. Thanks, Bill. I just put that tube you mentioned in one of my tires and it seems to work, although the end of the stem is right up at the wood spokes. Not bent. Doable, but not ideal. I figure it will be another 20 years before I really need to worry about it at the rate I am going with my restoration. That will put me at 86, so questionable. For now, it is just to roll it in and out of my garage.
  7. I am referring to the main sills that run the full length of the body on each side. The area I am thinking of measuring is between the firewall at the frame and that first hole to the left in your photo.
  8. My sills were a disaster when I obtained my 30-61. The front ends had rotted away and some cheap wood had been scabbed in. That also rotted. So when making my new sills I had to really guess at some things. One being where the front door pillars connect. I think I have it right, but I think you could really help me here. Could you possibly take a measurement from the back of the nearest hole on the top of the frame in front of the cowl to the front edge of the cowl itself on each side? That would give me an exact location for the pillars. Oops, I realize now that your car is pretty much done
  9. I just checked and found that the radiator cores from any 1930 Model 50's and 60's are interchangeable, if that helps you at all. Also, original price was $58.
  10. I just found your thread yesterday. Extremely impressed!! ...and so jealous of your progress. I sometimes consider selling my 30-61 and getting something closer to done. I am running out of workable years to devote to it. As for that radiator core, wow, that's $$$$!! There are some out there on the web occasionally. That honeycomb is the first thing I fell in love with on these cars. My dad had a buckrake out in the field made from a '29 Buick Master of some sort. The cows made the chrome on the radiator shell shine like nobody's business. Hopefully, you will find a true replacement somed
  11. Thanks, Mark! You don't think 3 5/8" stem on a Coker tube would be too long?
  12. I need to change out some inner tubes on my Model 30-61 and am having some issues. The car uses 19" Artillery Wheels. Some of the existing tubes have 90' stems, which is very helpful, and some are straight. I bought an appropriate tube from Coker with a bent brass stem. I discovered that the stem could not navigate the opening in the rim, due to bending at the 3/8" point, whereas the hole is 3/4" deep. The only alternative tube seems to be a 3 1/2" straight stem, which I fear may be a little too long. Does anyone have experience with changing out these tubes? What do you recommend I look
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