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Mark Kikta

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About Mark Kikta

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    100+ Posts
  • Birthday 04/07/1951

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  • Location
    Lothian, MD

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  1. Here is my attempt at making a new fuel gage face plate. It's certainly not perfect but it will do. I cut a piece of sheet aluminum, cleaned it well and applied decal paper. I designed the new face with Paint 3-D on my computer and printed out the design I then glued the design onto the decal paper and cut out the areas to be etched using an exacto knife and magnifying glasses. I then immersed it in a salt water bath to etch. I used kosher salt and distilled water along with 4 D-cells to make the etching process work. After 20 minutes I removed the piece of aluminum and it was etched well
  2. I finally got some headlights on my car. While they aren’t the correct lights, they are Buick headlights and they bolt right on so I have something until I find the correct lights. A little rewiring and some new connectors and I’m done.
  3. I have already purchased the gray linoleum to match my floorboards so that will be my plan I think.
  4. I also installed a set of headlights. Unfortunately after two years of searching I have still not been able to find a set of the right headlights for my car. I did find this pair of headlights that fit my car OK but they are the wrong ones. I plan to use these as a substitute until I do find the correct set. One problem I have is the original set has only one light bulb in them and that is what my wiring harness is made for. So these headlight connectors have only one contact in them. These temporary headlights have two bulbs in them and need a plug/connector like this except
  5. I finally finished preserving these front fenders and have finally installed them. Likely the first time they have been on the car since the 1950's.
  6. Now that the boards are fit to the car, the next step is to drill the holes in the right places and countersink the boards for the elevator bolts I ordered.
  7. I assumed that the running boards were originally made of white ash since it seems that was used throughout the car mostly. I was not able to find white ash in wide enough boards so the hardwood store recommended Sapele Mahogany which they said is hard and performs well in moist environments. I needed boards to be at least 12 inches wide and 1 inch thick so I could cut and plane them to size. My original boards were 11 5/8" wide the entire length and were 7/8" thick. The store planed and cut the width to my requirements. My new boards were about 7" long so I trimmed them after I got home.
  8. Each running board had 3 grooves cut into the underside. Each groove was 7/32 wide and ran the entire length spaced about 2 3/4 inches. The inner trim was nailed on and the outer trim was screwed on with screws spaced 4 inches apart.
  9. Now that I have installed my front fenders I am replacing the original running boards. Pretty much everything on this car has been original to date and by the looks of these running boards, they are no exception. The linoleum is trashed and the side trim is rusted and bent. Passenger side is better has no rot but the drivers side has some rot at the rear. My running boards are a solid piece of wood. There is a 3/4 inch wide piece of trim added to the passenger side board, it looks like they were just using what lumber they had to make it work.
  10. Looking for a pair of 1921/22 Buick headlights
  11. Neither of mine were replaced. Plenty of room to clamp on. The top one is not as robust as the bottom. Radiator shop glass beaded those parts and painted them.
  12. I think I would try it like this(my opinion only, others might have a better idea?): Terminals: 1-Ammeter, horn, blinkers/Brake lights 2-Armature connection on Generator 3-Coil 4-Tail Lights 5-Headlights 6-Parking lights 7-Dome light if you have one 8-nothing 9-dash lights unless you power them with the headlight circuit
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