Mark Kikta

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About Mark Kikta

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/07/1951

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    lothian, MD
  • Interests:
    AACA # 913163
    BCA # 50157
    1922 Buick Touring (22-45)
    1939 Chevrolet Master Deluxe Town Sedan
    1967 Chevrolet Impala convertable
    2012 Cadillac SRX ( wifes)
    2015 Buick Enclave
    2018 GMC Sierra

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  1. One more thing to check is shoe linings. I had a lot of grabbing issues one time after I replaced my brake shoes. I discovered that the linings were all the same size. Shoes are supposed to have one lining shorter than the other. I ground one shoe shorter and the grabbing issue went away. The newly manufactured shoes were made incorrectly.
  2. Well my 12-32 tap showed up yesterday and I made a couple square nuts to fix my accelerator linkage. It went together well and everything is a good solid fit.
  3. While waiting for the tools to fix my carb linkage I did a compression test and this is what I found: 1-68 2-65 3-60 4-65 5-64 5-67 I think I should be good with these results
  4. Here is the write-up I did on my 1922 Rear Wheel Bearing which should be the same I think.
  5. I posted pictures on doing this on my thread titled "1922 Rear Wheel Bearing"
  6. I just ordered a12-32 tap on eBay so maybe I can make a couple of square nuts
  7. Yes, I was just thinking about that the other day. I have the fuel line done now and gas will flow. I need to get a temporary fix on this linkage, get some oil up to the oil pressure gauge to ensure the oil pump is working and put water in the radiator and check for leaks. Think I'll put a vacuum on the oil line and see if I can suck oil up to the gauge and then just crank it over to see if I notice any oil pressure at all. So far I have not seen even a flicker in the gauge.
  8. So now I noticed that the threads on the accelerator linkage rod to the carburetor are worn and the fitting that connects the rod to carb is warn and slips on the rod. Does anyone know what size the threads are supposed to be. Seems like they are 7/32 -32 ? I may just put a nut on either side of the fitting if I can find the nuts. anyone else have this issue?
  9. Well I finally finished with my fuel line. All fittings are flare fittings now. I placed a vacuum onto the vacuum line and fuel filled the filter bowl and the vacuum tank. Haven’t found any leaks yet.
  10. I used the copper crush washers that are not solid copper. These came with the vacuum tank rebuild kit and you don't need to anneal these. I made some Delrin gaskets today and I want to try them next.
  11. I thought about the vibration and movement thing. Maybe I'll move the filter up close to the vacuum tank and see how that works?
  12. Terry, Yes there should be two crush washers surrounding the banjo fitting. I had brand new ones on there but it still leaked like cheesecloth. I'm going to try some Delrin. Mark
  13. This weekend I managed to build-up the filter I decided to use with brass fittings and then installed it right where the fuel line comes up from under the car. I built a small support bracket to give it some vibration support also. I finally got fuel into the Stewart Vacuum tank using another vacuum source and discovered that I have a pin hole in the fuel line between the filter and the Vacuum Tank. I have ordered new fittings to spice in a new section of 5/16 brass line from the filter to the Banjo fitting on the vacuum tank. I notice that I had to tape my banjo fitting using electrical tape tape to seal the vacuum leak around it so the fuel would get sucked in. Then I could hear the vacuum tank suction cutting off and on. I feel like I had the nut and two crush gaskets as tight as I would like to make them on the top of the vacuum tank, but the banjo fitting did not seal. I believe the large screw/nut that holds the banjo fitting onto the vacuum tank may be stretched which is causing it not to seal. I think I will try to make some Delrin washers a bit thicker and see how they seal up.