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Mark Kikta

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About Mark Kikta

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/07/1951

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    lothian, MD
  • Interests:
    AACA # 913163
    BCA # 50157
    1922 Buick Touring (22-45)
    1939 Chevrolet Master Deluxe Town Sedan
    1967 Chevrolet Impala convertable
    2012 Cadillac SRX ( wifes)
    2015 Buick Enclave
    2018 GMC Sierra

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  1. I ordered edge moldings from “Tape Ease Supply” in Wisconsin. It was aluminum T mouldings also used for boats I believe.
  2. Here are the measurements I took of my boards to order the linoleum pieces. I read through some of my notes that I saved from different places and others have said they could also be made from Oak or even pine. It was said in some notes that I found, that they used scrap lumber to cut floorboards of whatever material they had available. Not sure if that is really true or not. 1. Rear section 29” wide x 6 7/8” deep 2. 3rd section from front 29” wide x 9 ½” deep 3. 2nd section from front 29” wide x 8 ¼” deep 4. F
  3. Hi, my foorboards were all original and were very solid. I did install some countersunk bolts on the braces in place under the boards for extra strength. I know the wood is pretty hard. I was told that they often used ash in these bodies but I never explored what kind of wood they were made of. I just cleaned up and sanded these originals and rebuilt them with new linoleum and new trim. Mark
  4. Looking to buy a 1923 Buick 6 Rocker arm cover. The 1923 covers had 3 small rotating covers to open for lubricating the rocker arm shafts. My 1922 is the same except it doesn't have the rotating doors. Looking to replace mine if possible.
  5. I did the same for the top half of the windshield here. I used 1/32 thick glass setting tape.
  6. You can see both sides of the bottom half complete.
  7. Tonight I decided to put the new glass in my windshield frames. You can see in the first photo I taped the glass sealing material onto the windshield and mitered the corners. I rubbed the rubber and cork material with kerosene and then slipped them in place. After the glass was in place I trimmed the excess material off.
  8. Thanks Larry and Hugh, I had located the same universal rubber seals on the Steele site but I ordered the 1 1/2" size from Restoration Specialties since they are a bit cheaper. I also ordered another style from MAC's Model T parts. The gap is about 3/4" on my car but by the time you slide the seal up into the frame, I'm thinking the 1 1/2" size will be a better fit. So now I have a new V shaped seal if you need one.
  9. Hugh, I don't think I can use that seal for anything. I may just get a truck tire tube and cut it to glue in the groove. I don'y really have any better idea than that
  10. I have removed this lower seal (what was left) and had the frames glass beaded to clean them up. The lower seal appeared to be just a flat seal that laid up against the lip on top of the cowl. When I looked at the replacement seal I ordered from Steele, the seal is "V" shaped seal with one side longer then the other. I am trying to figure out how this is supposed to be installed in this small groove on the bottom of the windshield frame? It appears like I may have to cut the new seal down the center to try and fit that into the groove?? Does anyone have a photo about instal
  11. This picture is off of my 1922. Its a cast iron elbow piece with a brass plug? I assumed it was for a heater accessory. I believe its original because everything else on this car has been.
  12. Thanks Brian. Steele also sells them which is where I bought mine a while back!
  13. Actually I ordered that today from restoration specialties. I followed Hughs advise and got 1/16 inch setting tape.
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