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About bradsan

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  1. I stand corrected, thought we were talking about the window garnish moldings which are steel and wood grained. Agree the larger moiuldings that run front to back are, indeed plastice
  2. EOB Try the parts wiki link I sent you . I'd like to say they are likely the same vent window across the passenger car lineup but you already caught me out on the interior door handles! Here is the link to the front door parts diagram Here is the link to the front ventalator assembly group 10.650 I'm not quite sure why the 52 wagon right side has its own part number! I don't see any truck parts listed. Brad
  3. Hugh Wow, you are making great progress! I would use the the 'tar strips' anywhere painted sheet metal surfaces attach. I think they commonly call it 'anti-squeak' for a reason although I'm not sure that you will be able hear the squeaking over the road noise of an open car! Plus you wouldn't want all the hard work of getting the paint on the metal to be undone. I use roofing felt available from Home Depot. A $30 roll will do about 100 cars . The stuff I have in my shop right now is .045" so you could double it up if you wanted to duplicate what you have. I ordered an anti squeak kit for my 52 Chev and in some places the new product had the same 2" guideline markings on it that you find on the roll of roofing felt! 3M feather spray contact adhesive to hold it in place while you put it together. Brad
  4. Those rear-ends are getting harder to find for the reason! I know you can retrofit them to 1947. Definitely easier on the engine if you are venturing onto the highway.
  5. Like Greg says. The only reason I ship to a US address is to avoid paying at least twice the shipping fee. The heavier and bigger it gets, the bigger the price differential. An hour of my time can easily be worth $100 if I'm shipping multiple items. Don't mess with Customs, to avoid taxes, it just isn't worth it. Buddy of mine had 3 forgotten limes in his car and was on the US CBP watch list for a year. They have longer memories when it comes to taxes. Interestingly, RockAuto has figured out a way to ship parts to me in Canada for about the same price as the the cost to get it to Washington. Using Fedex no less. And no dastardly brokerage fees. Something about bulk broker fees? Or maybe they just carry a lot of clout in the shipping world. Brad
  6. This is what I'm talking about ! Brad
  7. EOB Grew up riding in the back of a 51 Chev Businessman's coupe. Not sure what your current power set up is but I think the options for 1951 were either the 216 with the manual or the 235 with the auto. ( they were for 1952) To me , the 216 whining through the gears is magical , not to mention very dependable and roadworthy. The 235 gives you full pressure oiling to the rods and is pretty much bullet proof. You can even tune it ;likely a lot cheaper than modifying the car for a V8. I'm with Marty, not offended but you are depriving yourself of a true old car experience if you throw the V8 in there. Brakes are your call . You can order new brake parts at Rock Auto and stainless lines from either Chevs of the 40's or National Chevy Association. Run DOT 5 silicone in it and you will likely never have to touch it again. ( I know , I know , others will disagree!) . Other comments I'm with you on the seat belts, Just make sure you find good anchors for them Nice photos , green is my colour of choice. Door panels are tough as they were formed in a press to get the compound curve and I've heard are hard to duplicate. As for the interior tailgate handle. yep .unobatanium. Are you actually missing the lock mechanism itself? Double check that as there is a pot metal cam inside the lock that breaks and duplicates your symptom. You can carefully disassemble the lock and get a machine shop to duplicate the cam (or spent some time with some scrap aluminum and a file!) . This I know ! I think you will file that the interior trim is wood grained metal, not plastic . Only plastic on the car are the interior knobs. Door handles and possible interchange?? Try GM Parts wiki. I don't know who posted this stuff but is is amazing . I have a heck of a time searching it but if you are patient, you can usually find what you need. From the 1954 parts manual: Door illustration showing handle group ID 10.512: Wish I had your third seat!!!! Brad
  8. Shop manual can be found here although a paper copy is nice to thumb through in the shop . That site also has some valuable info in the 49 Fisher SW body manual which is the same body as yours. If your wagon is rust free you are lucky; rocker panels , floors , quarters, taillgate. I can send you pictures of what not to buy!! Brad
  9. I'll second that. And this !! There are a great group of guys with 1925 Buicks busy writing a restoration manual for me! One day I'll catch up. Brad
  10. Hugh Brilliant handle ! Wow , what a fast solution. Hugh , how did you end up with two of the correct SG units but 2 wrong pinion gears? Were they correct for the earlier years that the D283 fit? BTW Engine is looking great! Brad
  11. The Buick Master Parts list for 1932 lists the casting number for the cylinder block assembly 1930 Ser 50-60 as 228257 so I would say you are on the right track. Brad
  12. Hugh I noticed the same thing! I'm thinking the low speeds of these cars made it so the only real concerns with an out of balance wheel assembly would be on the steering axle as it would get transferred to the steering wheel and the operator woiuldn't be happy with the sensation. Rear wheels not so much. Brad
  13. Hugh You certainly got my interest so I had a look at this guy's video which puts your 13 gram variance into perspective. Wow. But then you'll never hit 5000-6000 rpm with the Buick...I hope! For our Buicks and the small ends, what about reducing weight by replacing the wrist pin bolt with a low profile head instead of the Buick high head bolt? Couple of grams How does one account for any piston weight difference or is dealt with separately? Will you be porting and polishing the head too?? Brad
  14. How does one remove porcelain from manifolds? Not that I have one to do but I have been trying to source a specific used wood stove that, more often than not, is porcelain coated and the finish is usually damaged in some fashion or another. I would be happy with at traditional black stove polish finish if I could get the porcelain off. Apparently it is not easily removed. The only process I could find online was a molten salt bath which I daresay is not for the DIY faint of heart with a operating temp of 900F and then likely a disposal problem after you are done. Kind of off topic but still relevant i think! Brad
  15. Interesting, I have heard otherwise but have no source for that. I do know the 1932 registration I have shows model number , engine number and reg number on the first line. Serial number on the second line after body number but i can't say with certainty that they are listed in order of importance. Of course none of these are identified as such, so in today's world, you only know what they mean if you are familiar with your marque. I don't think the person who responded to my request had any idea what the number on the registration meant other than the registration number itself. I guess my point could better be stated that back then , engine number was at least as important in registering and identifying the car as the serial number was and appears to have been required to register the car . I suspect ( and have heard ) that it was because it was a lot harder to change an engine number (Model T's excepted !) than a serial number plate attached to frame or a floor board. That appear to be the case in BC anyway. Out of curiosity, do you have the original SK reg for your Pontiac and does it have the engine number on it? Since he is missing the firewall data plate , If Harry gives either BC or AB registrar the engine number , he might find a match that leads back to his serial number. That was how it worked for one of my other cars. Brad