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About bradsan

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  1. Here are the shocks I have . One body has the same number as Sagefind's , the other is 20997,; they are clearly a right and a left. They are also stamped G1 and G5 but I suspect those are simply casting numbers as they do not match up with any of the part numbers provided so far. Arm length is about 7" from the centre of the lever shaft to the tip of the arm where the snubber material hangs over. On the back side , the shaft centre is offset between the bolt holes, being 1.75" rear of the centre of the front bolt. Not sure what the neutral position is for these is. Given they only work one direction , they may not rest in the horizontal position. Hopefully, that is enough information to tell you whether these arms will locate properly above the front axle. Should be able to get a good idea of axle location using a level and a plumb line referenced from the frame bolt holes. Both of the arms on these shocks don't move. with hand pressure or even a bit more persuasion. I did not open them up to inspect why. PM me if you are interested. Brad
  2. Not sure if you have this or not from the United Services Manual. Looks like the shocks are shared by both Master and Standard and are model dependent . I would suggest that the are the same body with different arm lengths from front to rear and likely different valving where a model calls for a different shock at the same location (IE different shock for rears for some models. ) I have a set labelled 1928 , not sure if they are front or rears . I'll post you some pictures after I pay Mom a visit today! They are surplus to my needs for the 1925! Brad
  3. Which is why, as per Frank, the last thing you want failing on your Model T is the rear end: even excessively worn pinions and bearings can disengage and leave you brakeless except for the handbrake which won't help you much if you have any speed or grade.. Favorite accessory for the Model T was, and still, is the Rocky Mountain brake which is a set of externally contracting brakes. They are a definite must with any Ruxstell ( 2speed) rear end or Wardford (overdrive) aux transmission since missing a shift leaves you in the same position as the first point and your brakes become 1) a favourable change in grade , 2)your foot until the shoe wears out, or 3) whatever you end up running into. Brad
  4. After 1925, nothing but a name tag and maybe some interior and exterior colour options. Before that it mostly varied in upgraded trim options with the same drive train and body. Before the two names, when they were just McLaughlin, totally different story Not sure about the Robertson screws, everything was slotted on our '25. Brad
  5. Hugh Looks amazing I still haven't figured out how you had the time to work on the car and compile all of the amazing and detailed posts on how it all goes together; not to mention your responses to to others on the forum. I have a hard time just keeping up with the reading! Is there a starting date? Looks pretty close. I'm thinking it looks pretty good for tour as is , you know, speed trials , that sort of thing. The bigger tires are probably good for another 5mph. There is a calculation in there somewhere. Brad
  6. I stand corrected, thought we were talking about the window garnish moldings which are steel and wood grained. Agree the larger moiuldings that run front to back are, indeed plastice
  7. EOB Try the parts wiki link I sent you . I'd like to say they are likely the same vent window across the passenger car lineup but you already caught me out on the interior door handles! Here is the link to the front door parts diagram Here is the link to the front ventalator assembly group 10.650 I'm not quite sure why the 52 wagon right side has its own part number! I don't see any truck parts listed. Brad
  8. Hugh Wow, you are making great progress! I would use the the 'tar strips' anywhere painted sheet metal surfaces attach. I think they commonly call it 'anti-squeak' for a reason although I'm not sure that you will be able hear the squeaking over the road noise of an open car! Plus you wouldn't want all the hard work of getting the paint on the metal to be undone. I use roofing felt available from Home Depot. A $30 roll will do about 100 cars . The stuff I have in my shop right now is .045" so you could double it up if you wanted to duplicate what you have. I ordered an anti squeak kit for my 52 Chev and in some places the new product had the same 2" guideline markings on it that you find on the roll of roofing felt! 3M feather spray contact adhesive to hold it in place while you put it together. Brad
  9. Those rear-ends are getting harder to find for the reason! I know you can retrofit them to 1947. Definitely easier on the engine if you are venturing onto the highway.
  10. Like Greg says. The only reason I ship to a US address is to avoid paying at least twice the shipping fee. The heavier and bigger it gets, the bigger the price differential. An hour of my time can easily be worth $100 if I'm shipping multiple items. Don't mess with Customs, to avoid taxes, it just isn't worth it. Buddy of mine had 3 forgotten limes in his car and was on the US CBP watch list for a year. They have longer memories when it comes to taxes. Interestingly, RockAuto has figured out a way to ship parts to me in Canada for about the same price as the the cost to get it to Washington. Using Fedex no less. And no dastardly brokerage fees. Something about bulk broker fees? Or maybe they just carry a lot of clout in the shipping world. Brad
  11. This is what I'm talking about ! Brad
  12. EOB Grew up riding in the back of a 51 Chev Businessman's coupe. Not sure what your current power set up is but I think the options for 1951 were either the 216 with the manual or the 235 with the auto. ( they were for 1952) To me , the 216 whining through the gears is magical , not to mention very dependable and roadworthy. The 235 gives you full pressure oiling to the rods and is pretty much bullet proof. You can even tune it ;likely a lot cheaper than modifying the car for a V8. I'm with Marty, not offended but you are depriving yourself of a true old car experience if you throw the V8 in there. Brakes are your call . You can order new brake parts at Rock Auto and stainless lines from either Chevs of the 40's or National Chevy Association. Run DOT 5 silicone in it and you will likely never have to touch it again. ( I know , I know , others will disagree!) . Other comments I'm with you on the seat belts, Just make sure you find good anchors for them Nice photos , green is my colour of choice. Door panels are tough as they were formed in a press to get the compound curve and I've heard are hard to duplicate. As for the interior tailgate handle. yep .unobatanium. Are you actually missing the lock mechanism itself? Double check that as there is a pot metal cam inside the lock that breaks and duplicates your symptom. You can carefully disassemble the lock and get a machine shop to duplicate the cam (or spent some time with some scrap aluminum and a file!) . This I know ! I think you will file that the interior trim is wood grained metal, not plastic . Only plastic on the car are the interior knobs. Door handles and possible interchange?? Try GM Parts wiki. I don't know who posted this stuff but is is amazing . I have a heck of a time searching it but if you are patient, you can usually find what you need. From the 1954 parts manual: Door illustration showing handle group ID 10.512: Wish I had your third seat!!!! Brad
  13. Shop manual can be found here although a paper copy is nice to thumb through in the shop . That site also has some valuable info in the 49 Fisher SW body manual which is the same body as yours. If your wagon is rust free you are lucky; rocker panels , floors , quarters, taillgate. I can send you pictures of what not to buy!! Brad
  14. I'll second that. And this !! There are a great group of guys with 1925 Buicks busy writing a restoration manual for me! One day I'll catch up. Brad
  15. Hugh Brilliant handle ! Wow , what a fast solution. Hugh , how did you end up with two of the correct SG units but 2 wrong pinion gears? Were they correct for the earlier years that the D283 fit? BTW Engine is looking great! Brad