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  1. Thanks for the replies. Rusty I could try and fabricate a second plate but that area is already prone to sealing challenges and another plate would just double the fun with another gasket . Plus I've already spent time ( you would think lining up 39 holes would be easy but it isn't ) and dollars on what I've got . Definite Plan B though if I can't get this to work. Bob Any thoughts on soft solder and flux for stainless? I was concerned about what heating up the copper plate to soldering temps would do to the plating ( IE might cause separation) but I guess it isn't much different than the bottom of a kitchen pot! I think silver solder would be overkill and might actually damage the plating. but I do have some lower temp silver solder alloy for jewelry. Neverhad any success with silver solder other than to turn everything into a hot scorched mess. I did a similar repair to another cover by channeling my inner tractor mechanic and using jb Weld between the glytpal painted inside cover ( not plated) and the stainless plate because,well, I had already sprayed the cover , it was pretty and I didn't want to redo it. My confidence in that repair is waning! Brad
  2. Servin If Larry's 1925 engine won't work, ( and I'd rather see that go to a good home) I do have a 1926 Std engine available. It's not complete( missing valve cover and exhaust manifold ) but likely has all of the parts you need. 26's have the water pump attached to the back of the generator . I know the generator is there but I can't recall if the WP is there or on the shelf .Best thing is, unlike 25's, you can buy a WP ebuild kit from Bob's ! '26 fan blades ( wider blades) and hubs (squarer) are slightly different than 25's I have not taken it apart so I have no idea what is inside but the outside is covered in a very protective coating of finely aged grease and grime! One thing is, I don't want to part it out and be dealing with left over pieces. The other thing is I'm in Vancouver, BC Where are you located? Please remember there is currently a slight COVID issue with the border right now but I have my fingers crossed on this summer. I don't think you want to pay LTL cross border shipping prices right now! If you are interested, let me know and I'll try to get some photos and send you a PM. Brad
  3. Still trying to sort out my 1931 Auburn engine issue. Block is cracked in exactly this location at the valve guides ( it is , after all , the same basic casting! ) : https://forums.aaca.org/topic/277962-33-auburn-8-105-water-jacket-leaking-into-oil-block-repair/?tab=comments#comment-1489250 I finally pulled the water jacket cover off to see how ugly things were inside the block as I'm considering sending it off to try and lock stitch the cracks. Here is what I found: As you can see , the area directly in front of the water inlet pipe is the most heavily affected. Not sure what to make of that. I do know that #5 cylinder was previously sleeved . I did try the 'quick fix' of Irontite to try and deal with the crack without success.That stuff is now mostly lying in the bottom of the block as a sort of powder. I suspect that Irontite doesn't workswell on unpressurized systems since there is nothing to force it into the cracks! Thoughts on continuing or looking for another block? IT' interested that the worst afffected area is right in front of the water inlet. I'd like to keep the original l block if at all possible On the water jacket cover issue. The one I took off is copper plated over steel . They did not come from the factory that way so I'm pretty sure that it has been repaired in the past. What's missing from the water jacket is the distribution plate . Most of cars of this era had these plates and they are the first thing to rust way and disappear so they typically don't get put back in place. I understand that is one reason why the rear cylinders might run hotter on restorations since the coolant 'short circuits' to the front of the block. Here's one from this Packard posting: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/336684-plating-a-water-jacket/?tab=comments#comment-1961112 So I fabricated a distribution plate out of stainless following the instructions of another owner who had a photo of an old survivor water jacket. Notice the front of the plate is pinched to stop the coolant follow from 'short circuiting'. If you've lasted this long in reading this lengthy post congratulations, here is the question: I have a copper plated steel water jacket that I need to attach a stainless steel plate to. How does one do this? 1) solder it? 2) weld/solder some studs or maybe even stainless t-nuts to the cover and bolt it on . 3) Breakout the JB Weld and epoxy it in place . It should stay at a temp that is within its application range. I should mention the the water jacket itself has taken on a 'banana' profile that will just add to the fun . I was going to Glyptal the unpainted copper plated areas to stop any galvanic corrosion issues as I understand that can be an issue with that type of repair. Thanks in advance. Brad
  4. Thanks for all of the responses. Chris, I think you're probably right on what went on at the factory level. It's pretty clear from looking at the chrome/brass assembly that there is no plating underneath the 'ball mounts' so they likely flash chromed the whole thing and hoped to sell the owner a new car before 90 years were up! I followed your Olds adventure and noted your attention to originality. Did you follow the consensus here and take the buckets apart for plating? Rivetting finished parts back together strikes me as a bit nerve wracking. I've never tried forming stainless rivets and i can't see forming plated steel ones without damaging the finish I've used the Restoration Supply rivet head screws but they are challenging to tighten! The last time I used them , I used Nylock nuts ( since you couldn't get at them after assembly so they wouldn't be seen) Had to cut a slot in the screw to stop the head from spinning and even that was challenging. Unfortunately , their closest size is 10-32 and I need 3/16 Brad
  5. Thanks for the replies. Both cars are 31 Auburns. Both are in need of full restorations so its not nearly as exciting as it might sound! I know the plated brass set are original to one car; the painted set belongs to the car that came in boxes so I can't discount that they might be off a later 32 or 33 car which had the same headlights and therefore steel might be a running change. I'll follow up with a plater or two and see what their preference is. Thx Brad
  6. I'm currently working on a 30's car that offered an upgraded trim level that mostly involved adding chrome plated light buckets . The parts manual shows a different part number for the the painted vs plated buckets. I have on my bench an example of each type of bucket. They appear to be identical in shape and construction. Both have a heavy mounting bracket riveted to the bucket ( no separate part number listed ) . This bracket is painted in one case and plated in the other. The rivets are painted in one case and plated in the other So here's the interesting part ( to me anyway!) While trying to repair the painted bucket to get it ready for chroming and comparing it to the plated bucket, (I currently have the bracket on the painted bucket removed), I came to realise that the painted bucket is steel and the plated bucket is brass. Both of the mounting brackets are steel. The rivets are steel in both cases. The questions for all of the experts are as follows: 1) Why did the manufacturer use two different bucket materials? My initial thought was that the manufacture was trying to avoid the copper plating process but given the brackets are steel, this wouldn't make sense as the brackets themselves would still need copper plating. I can't see them plating the brackets separately as you would still need to plate the rivets afterwards and risk damage during the assembly process. 2) Is there any reason not to have the steel buckets plated? There is rust and pitting behind the bracket of course and I'm not sure how the plater deals with that. 3) Should the brackets be removed for plating or left on ? I'm about to rivet the bracket back on but don't want to create. more work for the plater. Do platers (good ones that is !) typically disassemble the light or do they just plate the entire unit and expect the service use will not create a problem in the near future.. Thanks Brad
  7. Here's some more examples ( Cadillac and Dodge) from a discussion on Roger's amazing modelling thread. It's toward the bottom of the page. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/145354-construction-of-a-continental-mark-ii-model-scale-112/page/68/ Looks like most manufacturers modified the left front in some fashion. Nash had to be different I guess!
  8. Not sure if this is what you are looking for Here's the kick shackle set up on a 32 Auburn. Front spring rear shackles are the same left and right. There is only one front spring part number listed so presumably they are the same length . The Auburn design locates the 'kick' springs up inside the frame channel They fit above the vertical bolt. It's design also effectively locates the front spring eye at the same position; left and right. Do your springs measure the same length left and right?. Do they have the same arch when off the car ( they should be pretty close i would think.) Do you have a parts book for the Nash and does it list the same spring left and right? All of the rear mount hardware you show looks stock but a parts book could confirm. With the Nash design,all things being equal, the front leaf springs should be different part numbers given the different eye orientation. Was the cork for squeak control ?Doesn't seem like it would last long in that application if it was! Could the length issue be that someone has installed the wrong spring at some point?
  9. Frank Picked it up at my local auto parts store. It was a rebadged offshore gauge for one of our local offshore equipment vendors. Likely neither would be familiar to you since I'm in Canada. Pep Boys, O'Reilly's , Rockauto etc should have them. Just make sure it is a 'mechanical' gauge . They are getting harder to find BTW since everything post 1960 is likely electrical . Here's an example https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,7123,temperature+gauge,641 Just try to make sure your soldering operation is as far away from the bulb as possible. I made the splice pretty close to the gauge head. They all work on the same vapor pressure of the ether so as long as they are a mechanical gauge they should be fine as a donor. The only downside is that the wire wrap around the copper tube may not look authentic but since my original gauge came with a cloth type wire loom over it, i just slid put a new piece of that over the whole thing before soldering. Of course if you have a problem leak in the gauge head the gauge will stop working pretty quickly again! Brad
  10. If your temp gauge needs no other work, the www.ply33.com instructions are simple and easy to follow. In my case, the donor gauge was about $29 and so far it was the easiest and cheapest thing on the car to restore myself. Just used regular ice cubes in water and moved quickly. The only issue to be mindful of is that the donor bulb and its fitting dimensions match whatever orifice is available on the engine. Oh, and use the solder sparingly, the ID of the tubing is tiny.
  11. Another consideration in the above analysis of the one wheel burn out is that static friction is stronger than sliding friction. On a perfect roadway with perfectly distributed power to each wheel , they will always break loose at the same time leaving a perfect pattern on the roadway but the real world doesn't work that way! Once one tire breaks loose , the differential works exactly as designed , not desired! As Joe points out , driveshaft brakes are only as good as the downstream connections. Not just the axle shafts but there is also also a very important pinion to ring gear connection that can fail . Highly unlikely in a properly restored rearend but I believe a documented occurrence in well-worn Model T rear ends that have too much bearing play. There is a reason Rocky Mountain brakes are still an easily sourced option for Model T's, especially if you have an auxiliary transmission or Ruxstell 2 speed rearend.
  12. I sure hope the bugs are gone ! Haven't seen any activity for a long time. No fresh piles of powder . Rescorcinol. Did the WIkipedia thing. From acne cream to resin! Read some of the instructions and cautions. It does sound pretty fussy to use , especially the required min working temp of 70F. and the acceptable moisture content of the wood https://www.christinedemerchant.com/adhesive-glue-resorcinol.html Could also just use a high quality carpenters glue for laminating. Most are water- resistant if not waterproof.
  13. Thanks for the info. The Kwik Poly comment was definitely tongue in cheek! Most of what I have is definitely far,far beyond rehabilitation. I think about 10% of the original wood is usable as is I'm going to use white oak for the sills/platform and ash for the rest. The lumber has been waiting its turn for awhile and this thread has helped to confirm my original decision. Sourcing eastern wood species on the Wet Coast is difficult and expensive . What makes it more interesting is that is that the majority of the original wood pieces are actually built up from thinner stock . Most of that is delaminating , likely due to the hide glue that was used and the ravages of the elements. The problem is that what wood I can source comes skip planed to a 16th under nominal dimensions so a 4/4 board is actually 15/16th's. So , if I'm going to duplicate a 2" piece of material I need to start with a piece of 5/4 and 4/4 and then plane the crap out of it . Lots of wood chips in my future. Leaning towards epoxy as well. Both as a laminating and joint adhesive product and as a sealer prior to paint. I realise there are pluses and minuses to each material and each method , I think(hope) this approach will strike the right balance.
  14. I was going to make you guess but it might be difficult if you don't have one in your shop to stare at everyday! 1931 Auburn cabriolet 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle .
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