bradsan

Members
  • Content Count

    158
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

54 Excellent

About bradsan

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Well, the ride control and two speed rear end selectors on the dash say 1932 but it could be an 'updated' 1931. Couldn't read the engine number or see if it had the Startix to confirm year. Still looks pretty nice although that engine's appearance really isn't in keeping with the rest of the car. Hmmm.
  2. Hugh Was reading another post with a link to https://patents.google.com/ Went down the rabbit hole thinking I might find a drawing of the part searching for AC Speedometer. Best I could do was this one showing the side profile and then an improvement filed in in 1928. https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/8d/c0/3a/cf864c590d8774/US1812510.pdf https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/e4/4c/22/9b2e3660971d77/US1690355.pdf Interesting site to say the least! Brad
  3. Hugh Our speedo was rebuilt 6 years ago by either Bob's or Bill's ( can't remember now!). It came with no warranty as the pot metal disintegration process never really stops . I am definitely interested in this part. I can't tell you which of the two options we need as the speedo is assembled and I don't want to take it apart until it isn't working! Likely get one of each! Why not just scan it and create a file to work from? Gary Ash on this forum seems to have a lot of knowledge and sources on 3D printing. Any thoughts on doing the speedo body as well ? They are made of the same 'crummy' material and I can already see problems around the shaft input threads on ours. 'Why not just have it lost wax cast ? Far less expensive and it can be made from bronze or aluminum. ' As I recall , the piece interlocks with the body with some pretty tight tolerances which is one of the reasons they crack when they swell. The sample part is already distorted from the cracking and swelling so you would have to fix the dimensions before you did any casting ( I think I just answered my scanning question! Maybe scan first and then adjust the scanned drawing to fix any distortion? ) Plus, its a tiny part and you'd have to account for shrinkage and distortion etc. Maybe not a problem to cast but the project seems perfectly suited to the new technology available . Brad
  4. WSP and Hugh I'm in the same boat as Hugh except that I am still confused! Is the visor part of the top or separate and, if separate , where does it go when the top is down? Brad
  5. Tom van Meeteren had a contact that was rebuilding/rewinding 20's Buick coils. Maybe he can help? PM'd you his email Brad
  6. Here are the shocks I have . One body has the same number as Sagefind's , the other is 20997,; they are clearly a right and a left. They are also stamped G1 and G5 but I suspect those are simply casting numbers as they do not match up with any of the part numbers provided so far. Arm length is about 7" from the centre of the lever shaft to the tip of the arm where the snubber material hangs over. On the back side , the shaft centre is offset between the bolt holes, being 1.75" rear of the centre of the front bolt. Not sure what the neutral position is for these is. Given they only work one direction , they may not rest in the horizontal position. Hopefully, that is enough information to tell you whether these arms will locate properly above the front axle. Should be able to get a good idea of axle location using a level and a plumb line referenced from the frame bolt holes. Both of the arms on these shocks don't move. with hand pressure or even a bit more persuasion. I did not open them up to inspect why. PM me if you are interested. Brad
  7. Not sure if you have this or not from the United Services Manual. Looks like the shocks are shared by both Master and Standard and are model dependent . I would suggest that the are the same body with different arm lengths from front to rear and likely different valving where a model calls for a different shock at the same location (IE different shock for rears for some models. ) I have a set labelled 1928 , not sure if they are front or rears . I'll post you some pictures after I pay Mom a visit today! They are surplus to my needs for the 1925! Brad
  8. Which is why, as per Frank, the last thing you want failing on your Model T is the rear end: even excessively worn pinions and bearings can disengage and leave you brakeless except for the handbrake which won't help you much if you have any speed or grade.. Favorite accessory for the Model T was, and still, is the Rocky Mountain brake which is a set of externally contracting brakes. They are a definite must with any Ruxstell ( 2speed) rear end or Wardford (overdrive) aux transmission since missing a shift leaves you in the same position as the first point and your brakes become 1) a favourable change in grade , 2)your foot until the shoe wears out, or 3) whatever you end up running into. Brad
  9. After 1925, nothing but a name tag and maybe some interior and exterior colour options. Before that it mostly varied in upgraded trim options with the same drive train and body. Before the two names, when they were just McLaughlin, totally different story Not sure about the Robertson screws, everything was slotted on our '25. Brad
  10. Hugh Looks amazing I still haven't figured out how you had the time to work on the car and compile all of the amazing and detailed posts on how it all goes together; not to mention your responses to to others on the forum. I have a hard time just keeping up with the reading! Is there a starting date? Looks pretty close. I'm thinking it looks pretty good for tour as is , you know, speed trials , that sort of thing. The bigger tires are probably good for another 5mph. There is a calculation in there somewhere. Brad
  11. I stand corrected, thought we were talking about the window garnish moldings which are steel and wood grained. Agree the larger moiuldings that run front to back are, indeed plastice
  12. EOB Try the parts wiki link I sent you . I'd like to say they are likely the same vent window across the passenger car lineup but you already caught me out on the interior door handles! Here is the link to the front door parts diagram http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=121887 Here is the link to the front ventalator assembly group 10.650 http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=121903 I'm not quite sure why the 52 wagon right side has its own part number! I don't see any truck parts listed. Brad
  13. Hugh Wow, you are making great progress! I would use the the 'tar strips' anywhere painted sheet metal surfaces attach. I think they commonly call it 'anti-squeak' for a reason although I'm not sure that you will be able hear the squeaking over the road noise of an open car! Plus you wouldn't want all the hard work of getting the paint on the metal to be undone. I use roofing felt available from Home Depot. A $30 roll will do about 100 cars . The stuff I have in my shop right now is .045" so you could double it up if you wanted to duplicate what you have. I ordered an anti squeak kit for my 52 Chev and in some places the new product had the same 2" guideline markings on it that you find on the roll of roofing felt! 3M feather spray contact adhesive to hold it in place while you put it together. Brad
  14. Those rear-ends are getting harder to find for the reason! I know you can retrofit them to 1947. Definitely easier on the engine if you are venturing onto the highway.
  15. Like Greg says. The only reason I ship to a US address is to avoid paying at least twice the shipping fee. The heavier and bigger it gets, the bigger the price differential. An hour of my time can easily be worth $100 if I'm shipping multiple items. Don't mess with Customs, to avoid taxes, it just isn't worth it. Buddy of mine had 3 forgotten limes in his car and was on the US CBP watch list for a year. They have longer memories when it comes to taxes. Interestingly, RockAuto has figured out a way to ship parts to me in Canada for about the same price as the the cost to get it to Washington. Using Fedex no less. And no dastardly brokerage fees. Something about bulk broker fees? Or maybe they just carry a lot of clout in the shipping world. Brad