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Mark Kikta

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Everything posted by Mark Kikta

  1. Today I cut the cardboard backing, the padding and the leather for the front side panels which are the first pieces that need to be finished before the backrest can be installed. For padding I used a piece of 1/2 inch jute and four layers of thin cotton batting. I think it’s the perfect feel, not too soft and not too hard. I used just a tad of spray glue to keep all pieces in place while we tacked the leather in place. Now we can finish it all when we add the last step putting the Hidem on to cover the tack heads.
  2. Here are the basic measurements I have taken from the original front seat parts. I will put together a detailed drawing of each piece with more detailed measurements.
  3. Its a 1922 5 pass touring with a 6 cyl
  4. Morgan, What would you do with that old nasty padding? Honestly I will give it to you when I'm done with all of this. Mark
  5. That was a good one Brian. I won’t tell if you don’t!
  6. While waiting to get the leather and vinyl I ordered from Coast to Coast Leather, I decided to start covering the seat back. I covered the top of the springs with burlap first then with 1/2" jute padding. After I hog ringed all of this in place, I realized that I might have a fitment issue at the top of the seat back which fits right up against the seat frame. Sure enough, I could not get the seat to fit well up to the frame. I took the springs and removed the hog rings, trimmed the jute and burlap right to the steel edging and re-hog ringed the material to the edging. After that it fit like a glove. I did not permanently attach the springs yet.
  7. This weekend I finished working on my rear door hinge bolts. As I said I wanted to fix them so I could remove the bolts and hinges and the nuts wouldn't be lost behind the upholstery. I tried to make some small plates that could be threaded and attached to the wood in some fashion. That didn't work out too well because the wood support has multiple angles so I couldn't attach plates squarely. So I decided to just use the standard old T-Nuts and they worked great. They adjust to the small angles they way they press into the wood. Now I can upholster the sides and not worry about them any longer
  8. Looks like yours is painted on the upper half.
  9. That’s quite interesting David, thanks for sharing it. I would likely use vinyl if I find something close to the leather that I hope to pick this week, otherwise I’ll use leather.
  10. Norm, Here is the covering that is on the back of the front seat. It had a seam across the middle which is what is separated here in the picture. It is not leather.
  11. Just buy a new set of manifold gaskets from Olson’s and you get new ones with it
  12. Make sure you know exactly where the shims came from because they need to go back the exact same places. I went to the hardware store and got a bunch of small brass tags and some safety wire. I marked each tag with a punch and wired the tags to all pistons, rods and caps so I could not mix them up. There were arrows inside my pistons so I knew which way the went back on because there is a front and back or you could say left and right. There is a right and left to the caps also.
  13. Rod, I am very lucky. I found some newspapers under the front seat from North Carolina dated 1960. I know my friend Bob stored a lot of his cars in a large garage at his mothers house in NC so he must have had this car up there for part of its life since he bought the car in 1958 or so. At some point he brought it to his home in florida in that home made trailer. He had it covered with two layers of old heavy canvas tarps in that shed and a couple of airplane wings on top of that. I have purchased a number of cars from him over the years and he always had old cars that were all original with “good bones “ if you will. I tried to see the car for 10-15 years but it was too much work to get the wings and the other stuff out of the trailer in order to get in to see the car. So when my friend passed away and his grandson was selling everything, my son and I went over and spent hours cleaning out the trailer to see the car. When I finally crawled back in there and lifted the tarp, I was amazed at how untouched everything looked. Not a tear in the rear seat and the upholstery was all in pretty good condition except the drivers side of the front seat.
  14. Removing the left and right side and armrest upholstery was next. After removing the leather cover, there was a padding underneath that I assumed was horsehair. But after David Coco's (trimacar) comment earlier, I looked at it more closely and it was definitely a tighter weave than the horsehair used in and under the back seat cover. After removing that padding, there was a cardboard base tacked in place. Looking inside the body behind the cardboard that I removed, were the nuts that hold the rear door hinge bolts tight. I first learned of this the hard way, like I often do. I was just trying to loosen the rear door hinge bolt so I could shim the door a bit when I heard a tink tink tink and then the hinge bolt slid right out. At that point I knew I was screwed as far as tightening that bolt ever again, until I removed the upholstery. This is one thing I will definitely fix in some way. I want to be able to remove those hinge bolts with the nuts falling off. Might make a rectangular nut that I can also nail in place, similar to a blind nut often used today. In the last photo you can see all three pieces. I intend to replace all three parts.
  15. The first picture I have here shows the 1" horsehair pad that was between the leather pleated cover and the back springs. It was just held in place by the seat cover, not sewn in place. The springs were attached to the frame at the top with 5 points of attachment. Some places had these small (1 in)webbing strips holding it and some spots had a scrap piece of leather wrapped around the edge and tacked in place with a couple of tacks. Interesting point after I detached the straps holding the springs in place, the springs seemed like they were still attached to the frame. It seemed that the springs were hanging on this one large nail shown in the frame. It clearly had no purpose other that to hold the springs up to the frame. I guess they used these large nails to sort of hold the seat springs in place while they tacked the small straps to the frame during assembly. Maybe this kept them from having another person to hold the springs in place.
  16. David, Yes that material on the side panels was cardboard first with that dense piece of something like horsehair as the padding between the leather and cardboard. I was thinking of using the 1 inch cotton batting as a pad for the sides. Shouldn't that work ok?
  17. Norm, I am glad that my photos and documentation will help others. There is material on the back of the front seat, I just haven't got to that yet. There is black vinyl or leatherette ( something besides leather) across the back with a thin layer of cotton padding underneath. More to follow on this.
  18. Thanks Terry, we hope it is acceptable at least
  19. The springs are in great shape and in fact the paint on them still has a gloss on it. I found no broken springs or clips. I covered the inside of the seat back with fresh jute and used toothpicks and wood glue to fill the tack holes. This was most important on the arm rests because there only a few holes in the sheet metal for the tacks to go so I wanted to make sure I didn't have a problem when I started using tacks in those same holes. In the third picture you can what I referring to.
  20. If I am going to take the old girl out on the highway soon, I need to make the front seat something I can sit in. It is quite a mess now. It wasn't this bad when we got the car but just sitting in it a few times has broken the dried leather into a mess of small pieces. We decided that we are going to tackle this upholstery so we have a seat we want to sit in when we start driving her about. We purchased a used commercial sewing machine and we are gathering the requisite supplies. While we are deciding about the leather and everything I decided to begin taking everything apart and documenting everything I can. This is the original upholstery on the car so I am taking lots of pictures and measuring everything.
  21. Next I mounted the re-painted brackets onto the underside of the footrest with new stainless screws and back into the floorboard also with some new stainless screws. I then installed my new color matched gray snaps into the carpet in similar positions and then installed new snap pieces for the floorboard so the carpet would lay flat. So now I have some nice new carpet in the rear that I'm not afraid to touch !!
  22. I ordered gray looped carpet to replace the brown carpet with. I know brown was the original color but with gray linoleum floors up front and gray linoleum running boards, I wanted something to go with that color combination better. I laid out and copied the pieces required using the old pieces and I allowed for some extra because the old carpet had shrunk so much. After I took all of the pieces and made sure they fit the car properly, I began sewing the binding onto the edge. Luckily I bought plenty of carpet because it took a good number of scrap pieces for me to get the hang of binding around outside and inside corners of that carpet. This new (used) commercial sewing machine we purchased was amazing. I bound the edging of the footrest carpet and installed it back onto the board. First I glued and folded some gray leather on the ends of the board and then tacked it in place like the original. Then I folded the carpet over the board and tacked it in place in the groove.
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