Mark Kikta

It was quite handy basically working alongside someone else doing the same thing as you. Thank you for your help also. It was fun!

These are the last for this post. I added a few more exterior pictures and some inside pictures too.

Thanks Norm, I had fun documenting it!

By the time it is all said and done, you end up sewing through 3 layers of Stayfast with two pieces of nylon cording to help with the stiffness. I didn’t think it needed any more bulk or stiffness. It seemed more substantial than any of the samples I purchased.

Interesting, thanks Larry

It’s just the stayfast material.

And finally....my top is complete! I had my Hidem end caps Nickel plated. I used stainless steel staples to install the Hidem. I still need to clean the chalk marks off but otherwise the top is complete. Now on to side curtains, tire cover and boot cover.

Next, I installed the top material for the last time and stapled and tacked it tight in all directions. I installed the remaining snaps in the sides of the top that snap into the gypsy curtains. Next, I needed to make the Hidem I needed to tack in place over the exposed tacks and staples holding the top in place. I'm making my own because I could not find any that matched my top to meet my satisfaction. I tried several types of material and I settled on the same material as the top(Stayfast). I used scraps of my Hidem and cut two strips 72" long that I would turn into Hidem. I have enclosed slides of that process. First, I used a 1/8" single welting foot to sew the outer edges over the 3/16" cording. Then I folded the edges in to the center and used a 5/16" welting foot to keep the center tight together as I sewed each side together. Then I was off to install the Hidem.

Yesterday I completed marking the top material for cutting and sewing. Then I removed the top material and trimmed the excess material. I marked the folded edge positions on the material while on the car and then I added 3/4 inch of material around the edges for folding over and sewing the edge seam before cutting. I cut strips of material from scrap and shaped them to fit in position as reinforcing material for the edges. I used basting tape to help hold the material pieces and folded edges in position for sewing. I also used small clips to hold the folded edges in position. After I folded the edges and sewed them together, I came back and trimmed excess material off. My next step will be to install the top material on the car.

So, I completed installation of all snaps and then I used staples and tacks to complete installation of the rear curtain. First, I dropped the outer curtain from the top edge and used staples to install the inner rear curtain and webbing straps for the rear window. I came back and also used tacks on all areas where webbing is attached. After completing the rear curtain, I stretched the top material and tacked in place to position the top material correctly so I can mark all edges for cutting and reinforcing.

Nice work Hugh ! Looks great

Well, I took my rear curtain assembly out to the car to do another test fit now that I have some snaps and the rear window in place. I’m very pleased and now I’m waiting for some more snap studs to finish the rear curtain attachment.

I next took the hard rubber trim piece that I cut to size and put basting tape along the bottom side. I used my scrap material and cut a 3-inch-wide piece of bowdrill that was cut on the bias. Then I carefully laid the edge of a piece of bowdrill along that tape. Next, I laid another piece of basting tape on top of the bowdrill along the same bottom side and I wrapped the trim piece with the bowdrill. The basting tape held the bowdrill in place nicely as I trimmed the excess material off. I laid the wrapped trim piece in place around the inside of the rear window and tacked it in place with my 18-gauge air brad gun using #18x5/8 brads. This made for a very clean installation of the trim.

I took the rear curtain off the car again and went to install snaps and the rear window. First, I refined the marks I made for the snaps while the curtain was on the car so I could punch more accurate holes. I found a hole punch that punches very clean holes at Michael's. So, I punched the holes and installed the 11 snaps across the bottom of my rear curtain. Next, I positioned the window on the marks I had made previously. I marked the holes that i would need to cut through the curtain material using the window bezel. I tacked the rear curtain to the window frame using a tack between each bezel hole as it was originally installed. Then I installed the bezel and attached it with machine screws securely from the back side through the wood frame. Next step was to flip the curtain assembly over and install the webbing straps as they were originally installed by Buick on the back of the window frame. First, I installed the bottom strap to the frame. I was a bit overzealous, as I meant to fold the strap over and sew it before tacking it to the frame, but in my haste, I nailed and cut the strap without sewing it. Because it was already sewn into the lower edge of the rear curtain, I couldn't easily replace it. I decided to soak the raw edge of the webbing with Super Glue so it would not unravel in the future. For the remainder of webbing straps attached to the top of the window frame, I flipped the edges over and sewed them together before tacking them to the window frame. Next, I laid the inner curtain material over the window frame and carefully marked it for installation of the rear window. I marked around the edge of the frame and then marked it again allowing 1/2" of material to fold inside of the frame and tack in place. Then I cut my 5/8" x 3/16" rubber trim piece down to 3/8 x 3/16 (Same as the original trim piece) and did a test fit. Now I need to cover it with Bowdrill material and tack it into the frame to hold the new window in place. The original trim piece was 3/8 x 3/16 so I may need to trim it a bit because the new glass window is thicker than the original glass.

I finished sewing all edges and the inner sew lines. Next, I installed the snap bases across the back of the rear seat. Now I have fitted the sewn rear curtain on the car and now I will stretch the curtain to a good fit and mark where I need to install the snap covers. Thyen I will remove the rear curtain again to install the snaps and rear window.

I take the clip off just as it gets close to the needle and magnet.

I finally got back to working on my top after organizing and running a one-week Navy Ship Reunion in Harrisburg, Pa and hurting my back carrying all of the cases of alcohol and beer. Ha Ha So, previously I test fit and marked my rear curtain on the car and now I'll sew all of the pieces together. I will be sewing the inner and outer rear curtains together along the bottom edge and sewing reinforcing material along the edges of the gypsy curtains. You can see below that I used basting tape and clips to hold the additional pieces of material and folded edges in place. This will make sure all pieces stay in place better as I sew them all together. I used a strong magnet on my sewing machine to ensure I had a uniform distance on all of my edge stitching.

Nice work Hugh!

Here the sides have been sewn to the rear curtain for first fitting and I drew chalk marks to help plan for the 2-inch wide re-inforced edges of the panels. I'll remove panels and sew inner and out curtains together with the stabilizing webbing straps for the rear window. Then I will sew the edge re-inforcing together and put in place again so I can plan to install all of the fasteners along with the rear window.

Next I cut the pieces of fabric for the rear curtain, sides and inner curtain. I attached each of the pieces to the car to ensure a good fit and marked the seam locations using the cording I ran between the last bow and the body. Then I sewed the sides to the center curtain and re-attached them to the car. Now I need to mark the edges for all pieces so I can sew the edge re-enforcement. I’ll also need to sew the bottoms together of both inner and outer rear curtain.

As always, nice work Hugh!

Yesterday I worked on sizing up the material required to make the rear curtains. These will be my patterns to go forward. I first stapled some pieces of cording to mark the correct position of the left and right seams, 48" across the top and 44" across the bottom. Then I used Dura-Skrim plastic sheeting from Sailright to layout and mark the panel sizes and shapes required. I made one sheet for the outer curtain first and then I made one for the inner curtain marking location and shape of the curved edges. The curved edges will cover the seams of the rear curtain. Next, I sized up the curved sides of the rear curtain and I also tried to simulate the rear window location and mark rough positions for the webbing straps used to hold the window in place. So now I'm off to cut some material using these patterns to cut out the pieces required.

This morning I finished using my plastic patterns to cut out fabric needed for the top side pieces. Placed them in place roughly and then tacked them in place pulling and moving here and there in order to get the wrinkles out. Then I marked over top of the welting cord so I would have the sew line marked. Then I flipped the edge over to mark the sewing reference points as I did on the top center section. Now it’s off to trim 1/2” or so from each of the sew lines for the seam allowance. Next I’ll match them up to sew all 3 pieces together.

Today I cut the material for the top center section. I took it out and laid it on the top and stretched it out and tacked it in place. Then I marked the sew line and sewing marks with chauk using the cording I had sewn to the pads. I’ll now take it to my work table and I’ll give myself 1/2 in seam allowance and I’ll trim the top material sides. Next I attached the plastic sheeting I bought from Sailright to make a pattern for the top side pieces. I pinned them in place so as to ensure I didn’t have big wrinkles present. Then I cut the excess material off. I left plenty of extra space/material to sew the edges. I then laid my pattern on some material and now I can cut the material for a rough fit to the top. I have to attach the material in place and mark the sew lines and sewing reference marks so I can sew the side pieces to the center section of the Top.

Today I set-up my laser level to align and attach the cording on the top side of my pads temporarily. The cording was sewn in place and then I marked the cording every 4-6 inches so I can mark the sew lines on my center material and top side material. The random marks will be used to make sewing marks on the pieces to be sewn together so I can keep my sewing aligned as I sew them together. Next to cut some top material.