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Terry Wiegand

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Terry Wiegand last won the day on December 12 2019

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About Terry Wiegand

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  1. HUGH IS DA MAN!! This is exactly what I did when I primed the oil pump on my rebuilt engine (milling the slots in a socket) with that big old drill motor. This could be done and use a long-handled ratchet wrench to move the crank ever so slightly and slowly. The crank stub on my engine took a 13/16" deep well socket to do what I needed to do. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  2. Rock10, If you can't find one, but can find one to borrow to use as a pattern, then I can steer you to the place where you can have a new one made. Action Spring Company in Tulsa, Oklahoma made new clutch and brake pedal springs for me for the '16 D-45. They were very similar to what is in the photo. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  3. In a C77L plug the L stands for LONG REACH. This means it reaches farther into the cylinder cavity. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  4. Brian, Thanks for the photos. If you look at the photo of my windshield you will see that I have an entirely different setup. I think Restoration Supply has just what I need for this. They tell me that this rubber strip is trimmed to the height needed for each windshield. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  5. I have these Senior Model MotoMeter parts for sale. I had gotten several of these over the years to use in making two very good ones. This is what is left over that is not needed. The meter is an original one that the thermometer works just fine in it. There are 8 glass lenses that are in very nice condition. The rings are original MM parts. The brass disc insert is not in the best of graphics condition. The first person who sends me $110.00 for everything shown here will have these parts on the way to them. The asking price includes the shipping. Terry Wiegand South H
  6. WELL DOG MY CATS! It looks like I opened my mouth and inserted the foot clear up to the knee. There is a narrow groove on the very bottom of the lower glass frame and according to the Restoration Supply Catalog there is a 'T-shaped' strip that goes into this groove and forms the seal for the bottom of the lower frame to the windshield assembly body (for the lack of a better word). That will go on the list to order. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  7. I want to thank all those who have rang in on this dilemma. It seems that there are several ways that this can be done and it comes down to a 'who's right and who's not right' solution. The one thing that is certain is the way the body on the 1916 models was built. The photo shows how the windshield assembly attaches to the cowl. There is no rubber sealing strip on the bottom side of the lower glass frame. I do not have to worry about that. I'm going to put the rubber strip on the top side of the bottom pane and have the lip on the outside. That way I can use the handle that is on the i
  8. On the cars with a divided windshield there is a rubber seal between the glass panes. When my Dad got the car this seal was nowhere to be found. I'm hoping someone can give me the correct information as to the placement of the rubber strip. Does it go on the bottom of the upper pane? Or does it go on the top side of the bottom pane. Since the top pane can swing in or out at the bottom, should the protruding lip on the seal be on the inside or the outside of which pane? I can see several ways that this can be installed. I would like to do it the way that the factory did it back in 1915.
  9. While rebuilding the engine for my 1916 I made a new water pump/starter/generator shaft using stainless material. I had a good friend up in McPherson run the shaft through the centerless grinder for me. We ended up with a surface finish of RMS 5 or less. It looks like it has been chrome plated and polished. When assembling the engine I used Graphite Impregnated Packing. I had made new packing nuts and the car has set all Winter with the Anti-Freeze in the radiator and block and there has not been so much as a hint of seepage and/or leakage anywhere on the engine. I have not started the e
  10. There was a 1914 Cadillac 5-Passenger Touring that folks from Amarillo, Texas brought up. An absolutely beautiful, and BIG car. They were driving it around on the grounds for a while. This was the last year for the 4-Cylinder engine for Cadillac and it ran like a fine watch. I and several others got to see the engine running while they were parked for a bit. And of course I didn't have the camera with me then. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  11. There was also a nice 1916 Buick radiator assembly leaning up against the trailer tongue right across from Coker's trailer. Both sides of the core looked really nice and the hose connection tubes were really nice also. The bottom front side of the shell was rusted out and $150.00 was written on it. As Pete said there was a lot of Buick stuff if a person knew what they were looking for. A very good meet and a good time was had by all. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  12. When you are standing in front of the car looking toward the rear axle, the water pump shaft turns in the same direction as the crankshaft (clockwise). The packing nut on the front side of the pump housing is right-hand threaded. The packing nut on the back side of the pump housing is left-hand threaded (counter clockwise). The nuts were threaded this way so as to have the tendency to always want to tighten while the engine was running. You can get the packing material from Restoration Supply in several different sizes. The 1/8" inch material is about ideal for these pumps. Th
  13. The 'usual suspects' showed up at noon for the annual Pre-War Buick Gathering. The Meet was very well attended and everyone was happy to see their friends. Being cooped up from the Covid crap and the cold weather has really played havoc with folks being able to congregate and talk about their projects and visit with their friends. Someone said that Susie Ersland signed up 35 new, first time swap meet vendors. All in all, the meet was well attended under the circumstances. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  14. Ken, Larry DiBarry and I talked about this very issue earlier this evening. Cleaning up the rear axle assembly for my '16 D-45 is the last thing left to do before it goes back up under the car. I'm taking it to my John Deere dealership for high pressure washing with a strong grease cutting agent added. I want to drain the rear axle oil and check out the gears before adding the new oil. I asked his opinion about how much goes in. He told me to stick my 'pointer finger' in the fill hole and that when I touch the oil that should be enough. This makes good sense to me because I
  15. Bob, if you will go to the AND THEN THERE WERE THREE topic and go to page 11, you will see the photos that I posted while cleaning up the transmission case. There are several real good photos looking at the rear of the case. I am just not real sure what you are referring to, so you will have to be the judge as to whether we have the same features on our cases. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
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