27donb

You won't find fuses or a fusable link, although if you have an electric fuel pump there must be some electrical system modification. Can you post some pictures of your dash and engine wiring?

1924 was first year of 4 wheel brakes for Buick.

Post more pictures! Crowned fenders are pre 1928.

The video link I posted was my 27, reverse H pattern. Your 28 was the first year of the traditional H pattern!

All great advice, and what I will add will be more of what was already said, but here goes. I learned to shift my old Buick, from years as a young passenger, observing and studying my Grandfather and my Father and the way they shifted their Buicks. My Grandfather, my Mother's father, shifted the car just like my own Father did, so it's not like my Father learned from his own Father how to do it. Never once, did I observe, either one of them try to "get out into traffic" or "get up to speed". The car gets up to speed, slowly. There is no revving, flooring it, racing it in each gear, to get ahead of anything, in my experience. My Dad, used to start in 2nd gear. That produced more slipping and at times, he would stall the engine, but it worked. My Grandfather always started from 1st gear, and that's what I do as well. I feel, all Buicks are different and need to be learned. My 27 Standard is much different than the 27 Master, and I remember the 24 6 cylinder was different yet again (but I haven't driven it in over 25 years). I never have to double clutch when upshifting because I wait for the rpms to drop, as I was taught. I avoid downshifting and would double clutch from 3rd to 2nd before a turn into a grade for example, but only at a road speed of less than 5mph. If I needed to get to 1st again, I would stop and start out again. When coming to a stop, leave it in 3rd, come to a complete stop, and shift quickly through neutral to 1st again and leave it there until ready to move. Don't put it in neutral and let out the clutch at a stop, if at all possible. Getting back into gear, especially when warm, can be a grind fest. There were rare occasions when my Dad would have to shut the engine off, put it in 1st, and start the engine with the clutch depressed, but looking back I think that was more of a factor of a low level of transmission oil and those gears were spinning too fast. The heavy gear oil works for me. Hugh needs a different mix for his car, all Buicks are different! When I first start out, The Master will shift quietly, the Standard will always, always be a bear to get into 2nd, but after the first time, it's fine. After both car transmissions are "warm" The Master always "snicks" just a little in every gear change, the Standard will shift mostly silently. Of course, that is if I do it right, if I don't let the rpms drop or my timing is off, all bets are off! It's all part of the fun! It's never a boring ride like in a modern car, I love it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7glHBYXXf80 Your Roadster is beautiful! Post more pictures of it please, and let us know how you make out and if you (hopefully) have better luck with your shifting!

Great work Hugh, when do you start taking orders for these? ;D

That's the 1928 taillight pictured.

What do you use for a brake light when driving at night, when the taillight is already on?

The third small lever on the steering wheel is the headlight dimmer. On the dash, left lever is ignition, right lever is light switch.

WOW!

No I'm not stuck at all, just supporting and responding to someone who is stating the color is strong and not from weathering. If I had a strong original color anywhere on my car that was not faded from weathering, I would have it matched at a paint store to preserve originality.

Beautiful car, looks great!

If you are sure that color is strong and original and not from weathering, I'm sure any paint supply store could match that color using modern tools and techniques so that the gauge faces could be refinished as original.

My speedometers are not accurate. I was happy to get one cobbled together for each car, that will show mph when moving (not accurate) and will accumulate milage. Perhaps my magnets are weak. I found if I move the mph drum up or down, the change is not that great. If I lessen the return spring tension on the mph drum, I can get a better speed reading out of the drum, or it allows the drum to move farther, making it more accurate, but once in the car the real life experience is different than the bench experiment. With the car vibration, road bumps, and any cable fluctuations cause the mph drum to bounce wildly all over the place, not giving a steady reading. From experience, it sucks to spend so much time on this instrument, get it back in the car without scratching the dash too much, only to go out for a test drive and look down to see I am going 10 no 35 no 40 no 25 no 15 mph as I hit each bump in the road. Turns out that return spring is very important to dampen the mph drum. Don't take too much tension off it. An instrument restoration company restored a speedometer for my touring car, accomplished by the previous owner, at a cost close to $1000 I was told. They abandoned the horseshoe magnet and epoxied new magnets to the spinning wheel within the mph drum. It was inaccurate, and the mph drum bounced uncontrollably. I put original spare parts back in and it functions better and the drum is fairly stable, is just reads about 5 mph too slow, as all mine do, as checked with a GPS app on my phone.

With all that weathering, I'm not sure I would trust that teal color. I guess the model 55's got the clock, the lower model numbers not so much. It appears like the 55's also had color matching the interiors. I would think that lower models would be black backgrounds with white letters, and all gauge faces should match the same.

For a brake light switch I used a spring loaded switch that when released is "on", and added a pull chain that can be adjusted. Seems to work well and be reliable.

Sorry for the delay, these are the only pics I took of my front motor mount cross member when my 27-54CC was apart. Hope it helps!

According to "Ford literature". There is no question Ford was and is incredibly successful in the design of automobiles, but are the Model T and Model A Ford transmissions of similar design as the Buick, where the U-Joint depends on lubrication from the transmission oil? I have done no experiments, to determine at what transmission oil level the little trough that feeds the U-Joint is deprived of oil. I believe the trough is supplied by the spinning transmission gear closest to it. 1" below the fill plug may be fine, I just have no evidence to say that it is. Wear to the U-joint or Ball Socket Bushing can happen over time, silently, from lack of critical lubrication in an area that we cannot observe. Especially with reading the threads on drive line vibrations and sounds, and worn U-Joints and Drive Shaft Ball Sockets and Bushings, I prefer to fill to the bottom of the fill plug hole, so that the thick 600w oil has a chance to get to those crucial driveshaft areas.

Everything looks great, and a fine selfie of two happy gents as well!

I'm not sure of the belt length, but from the pictures that I and others posted, the pivot bracket should be more horizontal, where yours is at an angle (because of the short belt).

Is the bolt that the spring hooks onto, in the right place? My 27 Master:

What about the reproductions from here? http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/buick.htm

Best bet is keep checking Ebay, the pop up from time to time there.

Excellent. This really shows how things can be done when replacement parts are hard to find!

I haven't seen the movie, but The Internet Movie Car Database has some stills from it and somewhat of a list of cars. https://www.imcdb.org/movie.php?id=1860242