27donb

1928 Under the hood, on the firewall, find an aluminum tag which should have the model number.

That is certainly a good way to test the car....92 degrees, pull some hills, but make the trip short and stay close to home. Sounds like your car is dialed in Larry. 👍 Short trips build confidence in the car being reliable enough to take longer trips.

I didn't know a 22 Buick could do 80 mph! At least that's how fast it seemed! Congrats on your first ride and video! In the future you may achieve a smoother video during a ride, but it will never be your first ride again, so the video is a classic. Thanks for sharing the experience Mark!

Exactly!

Exactly. This takes the carb, vacuum tank and fuel system out of the equation. Does the engine even pop when this is done?

Awesome news, congrats!

If this is true, then why not swap the proven carb off the 1920 to prove your theory correct that there is something wrong with the current 1916 carb?

What company will rewire an original coil? Do you have a name or website you could share?

In the 1920's the oil pressure hovered around 15 - 20 psi, with the gauge maxing out at 30. I didn't realize by 1940 Buick was making engines that would put out 60 psi of oil pressure.

From the information I have (for 1927), 114.5" wheelbase (standard six) uses 49-10 ring and pinion, 120" (master six) uses 50-11 and 128" (master six) uses 52-11. What model Buick do you have? It does make sense because often some parts used on a master six for one year are used for standard six the next year, so the newest parts can be used in the master six models for that same year. Maybe a standard six ring and pinion from 1927 would work?

Hugh thank you for posting that information and your procedure. I ordered both rubber and cork in 2 different thicknesses to keep my options open when I reassemble. Mark I found your post on the 22 through Google and read through it. I hope mine comes out as good as yours! Thanks for posting those pictures.

Thanks Hugh, did you glue the center seal to the end pads? Also, I am ordering glass setting tape from Restoration Specialties, do you recommend rubber, or cork and rubber? They have both...

I am looking for the seal that goes between the cowl and bottom of windshield. The one on my 24-45 is cracked, but it is one piece with the post pads connected. Other than being cracked, it seems to fit very well. Bob's sells seal ws-208, but it seems undersized and doesn't come with the post base pads, they are sold separately. Steele rubber doesn't have the one piece but I thought I saw it for sale somewhere, now I can't remember where. I am planning to get glass setting tape from restoration specialties. My glass is already safety glass. Does anyone know if a one piece seal with end pads is still available?

I agree. And perhaps that number is low. Coming home from a drive one day in my 27 Touring, I was hand signaling to make a left turn into my own driveway. As I started to turn, the car behind me crossed the double yellow line and passed me on the left. Luckily no contact was made, I stopped my turn. I use bumper mounted turn signal lights on my Buicks. Drivers just don't understand hand signals. The laws in my state dictate original equipment is acceptable to be used on antique cars. My 27's have the triple combination taillight, with the green "stop" lens. Oh, except that, stop lens must be red. But, I pleaded, it actually says "stop" and is original as the law states. Nope. I have the lenses in a box now on a shelf. Another state inspector insisted the front fender mounted directional signal bulbs on my 62 VW Beetle should be amber, not white (clear) bulbs. Turns out amber was the mandate for front signal lights in the late 1960's. I kept the original type clear bulbs. So it's whatever the law states, but also whatever the inspector wants.

My further thoughts on seat belts is, where do you attach them? I have two 27's and a 24 Buick. If they are attached to the frame, in the unfortunate event of a severe accident, the body may separate from the frame so your body would be torn with the car body going one way and the chassis going another. If you attach the belts to the body, then again, if the body separates from the frame you are going for a ride, possibly getting damaged as you leave the steering wheel location, which is attached firmly to the chassis. Most modern cars were engineered for seat belts and other safety devices. Cars of the 20's were not. I grew up with the Buicks I now own. When I was about 4, my grandparents took me on a 200 mile trip to a vacation spot in the 24 Buick model 45. I asked if I could sit in the back seat but my grandmother was too afraid I would "bounce out" so I rode sitting between them up front. The trip took all day, 30mph maximum speed, back roads only. This front seat time as a passenger over countless rides over a period of years taught me how to shift and drive the old Buicks. There is nothing, zero, that anyone driver can do about any other driver on the road and what they do. Other drivers on the road today do not understand how old cars work. When the light turns green, they just mash on the go pedal. I have no control over the guy behind me, driving up my spare tire as I shift from 1st to 2nd with a pause in between, to reach 5mph, as they stand on their horn. I gladly let them pass at the first safe opportunity. When I'm at a red light and it turns green, I look both ways so I don't get T-boned by the guy who is texting his girl because he is late for a date and runs the red light. By the way I do this in a modern car as well. When I pull up a long local hill in 2nd gear at about 10mph and get a line of cars behind me as a result, the first thing I do at the crest on level ground is pull to the side and stop and wave everyone past me (safely of course). Defensive driving is what it's all about. Slow driving on back roads is where I will be, with no seat belts installed. There is always a risk of accidents on the road, I hope I will never be in one with the old Buicks I drive, and I wish everyone the same fate on the forum, whether you have seatbelts and LED stoplights or not.

Do you have a catalog and price sheet? Nice work Hugh!

Thank you for the clarification. I understand what you mean, like a spring wave washer, the plate itself has high and low spots. Those pages from a 1929 shop manual show what appears to be the same basic clutch as my 27. To me, the plates all look flat, no wave. My 27 clutch has all flat plates as well. I could be wrong on your application. It just seems that if some of the plates did have high and low spots by design, those spots would overheat and blue due to the concentrated friction on such a small area. I think all the plates, are flat.

I'm confused as to what "radial waves" in a driving disk refers to. Is that term from a manual? I thought multi disk Buick clutches had driven disks and friction disks. What are radial waves?

I thought these caps were one piece castings. I suspect the threads stripped out of your cap and someone turned a threaded ring and as you said, glued it in. 1928 might be a one year only cap. I know 1927 caps are different and one year only. Here is one with cracks on ebay, so you can see what you would get if you bought another one. The listing is wrong as I don't think they had goddess caps in 1926, and 27 was different. Goddess caps came out for sport models or master models with dash engine temp gauges (motometer not needed) : https://www.ebay.com/itm/224515274217?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=&mkcid=2&itemid=224515274217&targetid=1403035015427&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9001651&poi=&campaignid=14357537471&mkgroupid=126242665837&rlsatarget=pla-1403035015427&abcId=9300642&merchantid=8530694&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr-X5p6fX8gIVBKjICh23eQa4EAQYASABEgK4tvD_BwE Sometimes you can find reproductions, but they can be expensive too. Or, you could see if you could have it recast, but with machining and plating, again, expensive. If you can clean the mating surfaces, maybe it could be glued again. I'm not sure of the best epoxy to use, maybe someone else does.

Cernak Buick closed last year after 80 years in business. Great people all around. This car was in their showroom, excerpt from an online article is below: "Jennifer Cernak says there’s an intriguing story behind the 1922 Buick, model 22 37, parked in the showroom of the dealership her grandfather, Samuel, opened on Route 10 in Easthampton in 1940. It turns out the car was a trade-in, a key piece in a deal the elder Cernak clinched in 1962. “It wasn’t worth a lot of money, but my grandfather really wanted the antique, so he took it in trade,” she explained, adding that it’s been front and center, in one respect or another, ever since. It’s been driven in various parades over the years, for example, and it’s been put on display at several classic-car shows across the region. But while it still runs fine, it hasn’t been out of the showroom much lately, Cernak told BusinessWest, because it doesn’t easily negotiate the ramp used to bring vehicles in and out of that room." Full article: https://businesswest.com/blog/auto-industry-poised-for-another-solid-year-of-sales/ Pictures found on google:

Did he tell you what the clutch problem was, and what he did to fix it?

Modern master cylinders need to be bled on the bench before installation, are 1940 master cylinders similar?

Looks like the plug that goes under the distributer. It covers the adjustment bolt that is loosened to set the ignition timing.

Ok, now THAT I would have a fear of. "ok the transmission's all set, but the customer said his spare tire carrier wasn't bent when he came in"