27donb

This is a spin on filter conversion, from Bob' Automobilia. I bought it to install on my 27-25 (as a future project). My 27-25 has a conversion currently that houses an element filter in an oil bath, similar to a tractor I was told. I prefer the spin on filter setup which is why I'm planning on changing it. 1927 has that pot metal block on top on the filter. Bob's setup uses the original block. Not sure if the block is still used in 1928. Picture is from my 27-54CC. The oil goes through a hole in the top, into the outer holes of the filter, through the filter, and out the center hole of the filter. To me it looks like yours is a homemade conversion, where the oil comes out the holes in the filter and drips down the sides, similar to the filter element oil bath type? Is that why the spin on filter is all oily and wet? Just trying to figure out what you have, there are all kinds of ways to do things!

It is sad, but it seems the only way to solve these situations is to set up a network of dedicated enthusiasts who cover certain areas of the country, are willing to travel and have the means to lift, move and transport these free parts which are local to them to be otherwise scrapped, and then store them until other Buick owners need them. I already am storing spare Buick parts my Dad and I accumulated, that I have never used and I (currently) do not need. I keep everything inside to prevent deterioration. I think a lot of people in this hobby have a pile of extra "stuff". If these free parts were near me, would I go through all of the above steps to grab them and store them for some future person in need? Hard to say. Maybe if someone needed a specific thing (IE "I need an engine") and had a plan to pick up from me or ship it... With that said, I am very grateful for those that have shared spare parts they had, to fill the need I had. And I would try to accommodate others in need too with what I have. Apparently no one needs a complete (although possibly crusty) engine and transmission? Not everyone has the means or want to be in the used parts business. It seems like a huge commitment to be a collector of heavy drive train parts that seem to not be in great demand due to large original components being rebuilt and repaired, rather than be replaced. Just my thoughts on the matter, I know none of that helps save these parts.

Post pictures of what you have. What you have may be better than what might be available to purchase used. The combination switch is very rebuildable, with levers and switch body available from Bob's Automobilia.

Congratulations!

I believe Model 20 would be Standard Six, looks like a very nice car. Any engine pics?

Phew! I guess that means my Buicks are normal then! 🤣

Post pictures of the parts you have.

To the group, if the crankcase is separated from the cylinder block, is there a gasket between the two that would need to be made or sourced for reassembly? Or, use a sealer from a tube? Or, dry?

I like the '28!

I used an optima in my 2754cc Buick and my 62 VW that is converted to 12 volt. All my car batteries are kept on maintainers year round to try and maximize battery life (I can only drive one car at a time while others sit). The optima batteries performed fine and lasted about 6 years. My complaint is that they died without warning, and when they were done they were DONE. Couldn't even light the headlights on the Buick. My 54cc now has a conventional 6 volt battery. It is about 6 years old and last year, it seemed to crank a little slow, so I know I am looking at a new battery this year or next. Both optima's died with no warning. No slow cranking, just click, dead. They never lasted longer than regular batteries for me. Cost and inconvenient no warning failure considered, I don't use them anymore. My 2 cents...

This post got a little off topic and I contributed to that as well when I made the comments on the Pontiacs. The purchase has probably already been made, or the decision to pass on it made, but I'll give my comments and opinion anyway. To the original question, if your car weighs 5000 lbs and the jacks are rated for 7000, it should work. Overkill is always the safest thing. I once tried to jack up the front end of a 7000 lb van with a 4000 lb rated jack (it's all I had at the time). Of course, it didn't work. I bought a 10,000 air / hydraulic jack from Harbor Freight and use it to raise the front or rear of vehicles for tire rotation. Most of the time I store things on the top of the jack and hang my coat on the handle, it's somewhat of a monster with a large floor footprint and I don't use it often. But, I'm glad I have it, and being on wheels, it's easy to roll it around if it's in the way. "Lesser" brands (no offense to anyone) like Harbor Freight I think are fine, if used in the home garage. I've seen that they wear out quickly at a business or professional shop, and most of the latter probably opt for the better quality brands. When I priced quickjacks at around 1500 and compared that to bendpak, yeah, I'm priced out of the better brands. Given unlimited money and space, I'm sure we would all get the best of the best! People have such a variety of garage setups, it's about what works for them. I have some space, but not height, in my garage. I love to have options with different ways to raise cars, and I had considered quickjacks at one point, to rotate tires on daily drivers. I don't see how they could be good for every situation, but they work for some. My old Buicks have enough ground clearance for some tasks so I don't need to raise the car. When I pulled the torque tube and axle, and transmission, and then engine on the old Buick, it was all using jack stands. Some of that project took years, so the car was raised for that long, with no issues. I supported the weight of the car, under where the springs are mounted, thinking the weight of the car is at those points normally. While using either quickjacks or jackstands, it seems to me that the mechanic is on a creeper, so forgotten tools on the workbench that are needed under the car will still require a lot of getting up and down, which is hard on us older folks. The only was to avoid that is obviously to use a lift. For me, quickjacks were too much money not to use them all the time. I don't rotate tires or do brakes that often. I'm sure people with many cars who drive lots of miles, or run businesses, do. Also I don't store things under the car, so it became 2 more 100lb items with large footprints to store somewhere when not in use. My jackstands are on shelves, my jacks are under benches, sharing those storage footprints to save space. I'm sure a lot of guys would like a 2 post or 4 post lift if they had the garage height, but in my experience I have seen cars teeter while 6 feet in the air with someone underneath prying or pounding on something. It's just the nature of working on cars I guess. Cars can just slip off of things. Certainly no one wants that to happen, to anyone. No matter what the choice, I learned years back, when it's raised no matter what the method, give it a good shake and push before taking the wheels off so that if it isn't stable, hopefully it will fall on it's wheels. Damage likely will still occur, but life will hopefully be saved. When jacking up either end of a car, make sure the swivel wheels on the jack roll in the same direction as the car wheels. If using jack stands, the stands should not tilt or creak when raising the other end of the car, because the jack will just roll as the angle of the car to the ground changes. (hopefully that makes sense, probably basic knowledge) Good luck, and be safe!

Love those Pontiacs and your setup! 69 GTO and 68 Lemans Convertible?

I like that kind of thinking! As to the original question, what year and model Buick is going to be lifted? Different years may require different considerations.

Amazing work and documentation.

I didn't think there were any replacements for the bellows thermostat. I have heard some owners have removed a failed unit and put in a restrictor in it's place, so that coolant won't circulate too quicky.

I see two that look like 26 Masters.

1927-25 Sport Touring

By my count, if things get dicey during the parade, you need 4 feet to operate all those pedals! 🤪😅

Thanks!

Why does the rear wheel look too far forward in the wheelwell?

The spring is definitely the "brain" of the oil pressure, by regulating and releasing pressure to maintain a desired pressure. It seems to me that a trial to find the right spring is the way to do this. If the original Buick spring specifications can no longer be trusted then shimming a spring might be the only way to dial in the pressure. If it fluctuates I agree, the spring may be done. The difference between the two spring free lengths might be because someone just stretched one of them to try and get more pressure. According to the shop manual I have, oil pressure for Standard for 1927 is 35-40, Master is 28-30 My 27-25 runs about 32 at speed, drops down to about 10 at idle. I added a shim (washer) under the spring of my 27-54CC (can't remember the thickness, but it wasn't drastic, just a typical washer) and it only raised the oil pressure about 2 psi at about 40mph, hot. Before that, it was consistently 15psi at speed, dropping to about 8-10 at idle. I never checked either original gauge with a modern gauge for accuracy. My Standard has more mileage and has a noisier engine, even though the oil pressure is more than my Master. I feel the pressure on both is ok and I don't worry about it. My Dad bought the 27-54CC in 1955 and drove it on at least two tours in New England, one up to Canada. When I got the car from him I asked him what the oil pressure typically was and without hesitation he said "15", so it always ran that way. Both cars were set up by old school mechanics before I was alive with way more smarts than I have. The key to Buick longevity (IMHO) is not to push them to today's driving limits. For me that means Standard 35mph, Master 40mph max. It's where both cars and the driver are comfortable. Fluctuating oil pressure is probably spring related, however it seems odd to me to have a 30psi reading on a gauge that only goes up to 30. Gauges typically don't run pinned. My generator on the 54CC goes to 20 amps, runs at 18 cold and 9 hot, for example. I would experiment more with maybe a new spring from McMaster Carr, and shims.

Wow! Beautiful rig Gary! Thanks for sharing the photo, enjoy!

Any pictures you could share? An antique motorhome in use is something I don't see everyday!

Never had a show car myself, so I always paint the rims after installing the tires.

Perfect! Model 20 Standard Six Coach. Info in picture shared from the book "70 years of Buick"