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  1. If you remove a thermostat - it also serves as a restriction which is needed for proper heat transfer. In all the race cars that have the thermostat removed, a restrictor is installed (usually just a fender washer) to slow the rate of flow so that proper heat transfer can occur. Just a thing to consider when removing a thermostat....
  2. I've already done several posts on the PreWar Buick Forum - lots of great help there!
  3. That was also a deciding factor of restoring rather than cutting her up. The wood is absolutely solid with no flex at all to the body. The only damage to the wood is in the frame for the front seat where three pieces of wood have become loose due to the failure of a screw and in the door hinges. The second owner drilled out the loose screws and epoxied plugs into the wood. Both the seat and the hinge area are a simple fix. She has only 20k on the odometer and she came from Eastern Washington which is the Arizona of the Pacific NW. Seventy eight years of dry storage is what saved it.
  4. Day 20 Of the Restoration Hello All - 20 days ago now I brought home my first "restoration" project. For the last 10 years I have been primarily building Rat Rods and Hot Rods. When I learned of a 1927 Buick from a contractor friend that I dealt with I was intrigued. Story on the Buick was that the original owner had bought it new and drove it until 1940 when the distributor cracked. It was then pushed into the barn until my contractor friend picked it up in 1970 and took it to his shop where it sat until I brought it home to the Corral. The original owner had apparently started to disassemble the car in the late 60's but lost interest and sold it to him. My contractor friend was not as mechanically adept so he had lost interest in the project mostly out of frustration on how long he had it and the difficulty of finding parts. It took me some time to even get him to allow me to look at it. From what I was hearing in the meantime I was envisioning another Rat Rod build. However when I did get a chance to see it, I was rather shocked. Though it has sat in a state of disassembly since the early 1970's it was all there. Not a typical Rat Rod project where I usually start with a rough body and go from there. I loved how everything from the vacuum fuel pump to the controls on the steering wheel and even the original interior was all still there and in fairly good condition. Heck even the mechanical brakes still work. I did not have the heart to cut and hack it up. It's now going to be a working project that will remain as original as I can. The end goal is to make it a running vehicle - or as I tell folks "a large under powered go-cart that is legal to drive on the road" the motor and the transmission seem to be in functioning condition, however just a few days after bringing it home I realized that the distributor and the missing carburetor is a problem. I began a search and then on this site - someone posted a link to a complete running and functioning drivetrain for a 1928 Buick that was only on the other side of Washington State. Road trip time! I was able to pick up the full running gear, rims, and extra parts. I know its not the same year and I could probably swap over the generator, distributor, carb, etc... but this one is a proven runner. Seems easier to just swap the motor and transmission out. First goal is to get it running around then get the body work finished and follow up with the interior.
  5. Looking to see if anyone has an easy method of finding out the clutch size for a stock 1/2 ton 1946 Ford Pickup. Seems like there is an 9", 10" or 11" clutch disc. I would assume that the 1/2 ton may come with a 9" or 10" disc, but we have not yet opened it up to find out. Want to order parts rather than take it apart and have it hung up on the lift for a week or two waiting on parts. Thanks in advance
  6. Thanks again for all the angles of consideration! This is what makes this a great forum is the ability to get many different opinions of a solution. After pulling back a layer of the window track felt it revealed that one out of the three screws for the upper rear door mounts was an actual bolt. I don't know if this was a modification or not. But I found it interesting to find the recess in the wood and the area where the nut originally rested. However as stated the doors are quite heavy, hence my inquisition as to a door hinge mount solution that exceeded the original screws. Right now, as access to the back of the wood is readily and easily available on the rear doors and the two lower hinges on the front. At this point I still plan to fabricate a nut plate and affix the doors with bolts and the upper front door hing with screws. I can take merit for keeping it original in design, but I bought the Buick without the intention of making this a 100 point restoration. Instead I want to make it a runner to enjoy for at least another 30 years.
  7. Perfectly understandable solutions! Thanks so much! I like the nut plate idea. The only portion that will not work is on the upper hinges of the front, though there are three hinges to work with on those doors. Two should suffice for the extra strength and use wood screws on the upoer.
  8. Hello all -Here is my 1927 Buick that has been in a barn since 1940 when the distributor broke. It was then purchased from the original owner by my friend in 1970 and moved to his shop where it has sat since then. The wood frame of the body is amazingly solid and I cant really see a reason to replace any of the wood. However when my friend bought it he decided to "fix' the holes on the screws for the door hinges. He drilled them out and placed plugs in them. This could certainly work with re-drilling, but I was wondering if anyone has used these brass threaded inserts? The great part is the 1/4 bolt has the exact taper for the door hinge, however I fear that the wood is not very pliable and I don't want to split it when screwing in the insert. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated
  9. Many thanks for the reply. That's what my suspicions were. I'll have to mull it over this weekend to see what path to take. I really want to just get it puttering around town, but I don't want to go so far that its not it's old glory either.
  10. Just bought a 1927 Buck Standard 6. Trying to get it running and the original oil filter system is on the firewall. I read as many subjects about the oil filter on these here on the forum and I am left with more questions than an answer. I took the three bolts off the top of the port and removed the "filter" - there was a thread here about taking it apart and replacing the element with a WIX 51080. However in trying to dismantle the canister I am left with the thought that the canister is a sealed unit and can not be taken apart? Bob's sells a kit with a replacement filter and form the very simple description it would seem that these can be taken apart and replace the filter element? But I would also like to not spend $225 for a filter. Any knowledge on taking the original canister apart would be appreciated. I do realize that a more modern Summit Racing or Jegs remote kit is an option - though I like the original look.