Justinlb

Since the plate was offset, it was making the seal offset too, this hole is where the rocker arm is so it was just blowing oil up and draining out the square vent.

Checked the crankcase ventilation, it was all Good! But I found the issue.. there's a seal inside the pump. and when I aligned it with the hole it's supposed to seal I get this, no matter how I turn it. Either it was a defective part or the diaphragm plate shifted over from Installation error (most likely).

I have the same exact symptoms as the post linked below. How can I fix this issue? I rebuilt my pump probably a year ago, but I don't remember there being anything stopping the oil from going through the vent from engine blow by. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏

I drive my car daily and ran into a backfire problem a few weeks ago, for the life of me I couldn't figure it out. It ended up being the vent I had made for my gas tank got plugged with dust causing low fuel pressure at around 2000 rpm. A backfire could be so many things, just be patient and you'll find it.

Looking for a decent 50's or 30s car for trade. non-running is okay. 1918 Model T touring. runs and drives, starts nearly every time on first pull. Older restoration, the canvas top needs replaced. the car is in great shape for its age. thanks for looking. fb marketplace post is here: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2040246902822174

Looking for a 30s Packard for a trade, non running is okay. I have a 1918 model T Touring to offer. Please see my other post for pictures

Looking for a 30s Packard for a trade, non running is okay. I can offer my 1918 model T touring, it runs and drives, starts on first pull almost every time. Older restoration, the canvas top needs replaced. The rest of the car is in excellent condition for it's age. More pictures on my marketplace post. Message me on Facebook or on here with your car if interested. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2040246902822174/ Thanks for looking.

Good luck changing out the torque ball, Also disconnect the brake hose in the middle, I broke mine in the process. Only pulled the axle back just far enough to clear the transmission too. In March. Many miles put on it since, I also drive it like It's stolen. best way to put the parts to the test.

I can vouch for those instructions on the torque ball, no leaks or issues since I've repaired my torque ball. I daily drive my Buick.

Thanks Neil that was a lot of useful information in there, I ended up lapping both pump body and plate and got it within the manuals specs. my plate was actually warped, but a lot of sanding took care of it. now im getting around 10-20 psi idling and 30-45 psi driving with the engine hot. Opposed to 0-5 idling and 10 driving. Thread worked great for aligning the gasket. I wish I knew about this earlier in life, it would have saved me a lot of swearing.

Looks like I'm just copying what you do with your car Neil. I had low oil pressure, it might be the half inch thick sludge in the pan. also Dave's instructions were spot on, it was very easy to get the pan off.

I had the same issue, I ended up cutting the bolts with a cutoff wheel then using a de-burring tool on them so they're tapered. Worked great.

I second that, I got a spare good engine from someone pulling it to motor swap.

My king pins are past due, probably on borrowed time by now. Could someone tell me what size adjustable reamer I need to get the job done? I really don't want to buy an entire set if I only need 1 reamer. Thanks 👍

I've put around 300 miles on the car since I've finished it. (The weather has been amazing) No issues at all, it has quieted way down and shifts nicely. I did put a small magnet inside the drain plug. Changed the oil after 100 miles. I should have done it sooner; talk about sparkly gear oil! Changed again around another 100 and there wasn't much that time around. It looks like a success all around. Thank you all, I couldn't have done it without your help.