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About redbaron1930

  • Birthday 06/19/1963

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  1. Just a quick update on this, I cleaned and lubricated all the linkage on the vacuum tank and got it working properly, I also changed the float on the carb. We took the car out for a 30 mile drive yesterday (4th of July) and it never ran so well, it didn't miss a beat in all 30 miles. Thanks to all for the help on this.
  2. Hey Terry, good to hear from you. Do you have a source or part number for the springs you used? For now I just cleaned all the pivot points and gave them a little lubrication, so for now they are working fine and may be OK for a while but it sounds like a good idea to put new springs in.
  3. In an interesting development on this problem, I took apart the vacuum tank and found that the valves were not closing when the float was all the way up.I fixed the problem but I am also in the process of changing the float so i haven't started it yet, but is it possible that if the Vac tank valves didn't close that it could overfill and suck raw gas right into the intake manifold?
  4. Are these custom made at your shop?
  5. Thanks for the info on the float, There is one other thing I just noticed and that is that the float needle has a slight ring around the seat area, probably wear from 100+ years of metal to metal contact, however I wouldn't think that it would cause this type of intermittent catastrophic flooding?
  6. I have a good belt sander and a scroll saw, so I should be able to get it done. I'll keep you posted as to the results and thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
  7. Larry; Yes it has a cork float which is quite old if not original, do you replace it with fresh cork or is there a material that works better?
  8. Hello Everybody; I have a 1916 D-45 that 95% of the time runs great, then either at idle or while driving it wants to flood ( I think) it will stall at idle unless I give it a lot of throttle, black smoke, and I have seen gas drip from the carb. My first reaction was a float problem, so I took it all apart and everything seems to work just fine and is in pretty good shape. I am just wondering what I am missing here and if anybody has had an experience like this? As always all help and insight is appreciated. Andy
  9. Terry; I have rebuilt and poured bearings on several vintage engines, personally I think the best thing you should do is change whatever oil after about 20-30 minutes. At that time it will probably look somewhat metallic. But you will have accomplished 90% of the bearing filing stage. I think the Havoline 20-50 is a good choice. Personally I prefer Rotella 15W-40. I'm sure it will be very exciting hearing it rumble back to life!
  10. Thanks Larry; I got the shaft out this weekend it had been modified slightly over the years. the 18 5/16 makes sense my overall length is 18 13/16 but the coupling on the end sticks out 1/2" past the end of the shaft so at least now I know that is right.
  11. Hugh; I can't make out the shaft dimensions for the D model 6 cyl. "A" dimension looks like 18 5/16 and "B" dimension 3 1/16 can you tell me if this is correct?
  12. Thanks all, Jim, my shaft is very worn in the packing areas ( as well as chewed up). I believe replacement is the only effective remedy at this point.
  13. Hello all; I need to change the waterpump shaft on my 1916 model D-45. (chews up packing like crazy!) Can anyone walk me through the steps on the best way to get it out. I imagine that the engine should be set at #1 TDC and the distributor marked at #1 firing. Everything is trapped in there pretty good but I am sure there is a way to get it out and if anyone have done it before I'm sure it will save me a lot of guessing and aggravation. Thanks Andy
  14. It's getting there, I have to change the water pump shaft next, it chews up packing quickly. I have to tighten the packing nuts after every time I start it.
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