Jump to content

redbaron1930

Members
  • Content Count

    48
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

20 Excellent

About redbaron1930

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/19/1963

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Terry; I have rebuilt and poured bearings on several vintage engines, personally I think the best thing you should do is change whatever oil after about 20-30 minutes. At that time it will probably look somewhat metallic. But you will have accomplished 90% of the bearing filing stage. I think the Havoline 20-50 is a good choice. Personally I prefer Rotella 15W-40. I'm sure it will be very exciting hearing it rumble back to life!
  2. Thanks Larry; I got the shaft out this weekend it had been modified slightly over the years. the 18 5/16 makes sense my overall length is 18 13/16 but the coupling on the end sticks out 1/2" past the end of the shaft so at least now I know that is right.
  3. Hugh; I can't make out the shaft dimensions for the D model 6 cyl. "A" dimension looks like 18 5/16 and "B" dimension 3 1/16 can you tell me if this is correct?
  4. Thanks all, Jim, my shaft is very worn in the packing areas ( as well as chewed up). I believe replacement is the only effective remedy at this point.
  5. Hello all; I need to change the waterpump shaft on my 1916 model D-45. (chews up packing like crazy!) Can anyone walk me through the steps on the best way to get it out. I imagine that the engine should be set at #1 TDC and the distributor marked at #1 firing. Everything is trapped in there pretty good but I am sure there is a way to get it out and if anyone have done it before I'm sure it will save me a lot of guessing and aggravation. Thanks Andy
  6. It's getting there, I have to change the water pump shaft next, it chews up packing quickly. I have to tighten the packing nuts after every time I start it.
  7. Terry; Yes, I machined the top surface of the cage down about .070" and recut the 45 degree angle, and now it seals just like all the others. But I do suppose that the exit port of the cage sits .070" high as it always did in that cylinder.
  8. First off, a sincere thanks to all those who helped me through this "valve job". It has been re assembled and I started the car last weekend, it ran so rich that the carburetor could not maintain proper float level. I think with the valve train nice and tight now the engine is pulling good vacuum and the old carb settings were way off. The gas adjustment was very tight and I didn't want to force it, so I got it to run pretty well by closing down the air adjustment screw about 8 turns! ( my guess it was so loose that the high speed jet was opening at high idle). I'll see what's up with the gas
  9. They are available from Cylinder Head Supply ( Oregon I believe). They have a good amount of literature on their site. I will post some pictures in the next day or two.
  10. Brian; Yes, I read that thread and have talked to Terry. Some of my valve guides (cages) were worn over .010" ( a .323" pin gage fell through!). I reamed them out to .342" and put .015" K-line phosphor Bronze liners in them and sized them to .312-.313 so I could use NORS valves. I'll try and post some pictures.
  11. Using the puller the remaining 4 valve assemblies have now been removed. Once I got one out and realized they were being held in by a thick carbon oil sludge, I applied a little heat and the last 3 came out with minimal effort using the puller. Thanks to all for showing me " how it's done" !
  12. Oil is in the coils for cooling, you might be able to find a newer epoxy encapsulated coil which might make the job easier.
  13. Here is the tool I made, as soon as I tightened it up the seal ring came loose which is more progress than I have been able to make in a week!
  14. It appears that both tools work the same way in that they pull up on the valve spring retainer and bear down on the top of the cylinder. My guess is that the legs should bear down as close to the cage opening as possible where the casting is full thickness. Anyway I think I can make a tool to do this job rather simply starting with a steering wheel puller, adding legs, then an intermediate piece as Mark did with the square tubing. I'll keep you posted! By the way, is it just my car or is it typical that the cages in the rear cylinders are much more difficult to extract than the front ones, th
  15. Mark, Clever tool! How did you stop the valve from falling into the cylinder, did you pressurize it with air?
×
×
  • Create New...