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Studenut1915

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About Studenut1915

  • Birthday 12/16/1955

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    Edmonton Alberta Canada

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  1. Hi all I'm looking for pistons for an 1928 president FA 312 cubic inch. I need .030 .040 or semi's. I would consider good used. Please let me know what you have.
  2. Hi Nicolas My my car is a 131 inch wheelbase. The FA was early 28 production and the only 8 to have 313 cid engine. my car will have cowl hood and radiator up front. seats gas tank toolbox and spare tires at the rear. I'm just going through all the parts and tearing down my two engi nes.
  3. Hi all. Looks like Nicolas has a fun project going on. I have a 1928 FA frame and a bunch of parts that I am going to use for a racer build. Is the frame number is a similar place? My frame did not come with a serial number tag tag. Pat
  4. I'm glad you enjoyed it Also thanks Peter Gariepy for adjusting the link for instant play Pat
  5. The first road maps came out in Alberta 1914. In 2014 we followed the original map as close as possible. It was a fun adventure.
  6. Hi Chris I have done this. Simple with minimal machining. Click on my picture, scroll down and you will find my history. I also posted about adjusting you transmission pinion. Have fun. Pat
  7. Bloo The oil site gauge simply has a hole in the top that oil flows into and a hole in the bottom for outflow. On my car you can see the flow at an idle and the whole gauge fills with oil going down the road. Pat
  8. Bloo If you go to my response and click on n my car,my history will come. The info is under driveline parts.
  9. Bloo The oil flow gauge is feed off the top of the oil pump, through the gauge and returns to the top front of the engine to feed the distributor and timing gears. You can see the lines in Rust's foto of his engine. If the gauge is bypassed you must have line from the pump to the front of the engine. If not you will starve all the timing gears. My car had the lines removeve an fitting plugged whe i bought my car.i did figure it out before I fired it up. Pat
  10. Hi Rusty My car is an unrestored SD4 built in Walkerville Ontario. understand what 100 years of crud is like. When you removed the nut it should have taken the all the spring tension off. On my SD 4 the pin was difficult to remove the first time but did come out. There is just enough room to get the pin out. The threaded shaft is also threaded into the back of the crankshaft. If you think there is still some spring tension on it you could try to compress the collar enough to turn the threaded shaft enough to remove the tension. It may have been pressurized a bit by pushing in the collar and turning the threaded shaft with the pin installed. The replacement leather for you clutch should be 3/16 of an inch. I tried 1/4 inch and it pushed the driveshaft back far enough into the transmission cup that the clutch would not fully release. You may be able to soften your leather with neets foot oil. My care sat for 60 years, I oiled it well and drove a lot for it for 8 years. I changed it because I was afraid it may leave me stranded, it was still working fine. Someone had cut long cotter keys at the eye and inserted them between the facing and the cone to make of for wear. the leather was oft and stong when i removed it. I also changed my front you joint to a modern type in the existing hardware. See previous posting I also found some square rear trunion in a 1917 parts car that have the removed all of the play out out my rear driveshaft to transmission connection. see previous posting have fun Pat
  11. Thank you. Nice looking truck. I thought the rad might be for a truck. It was rescured from the Reynolds museum yard in Wetaskewin Alberta Canada before the crusher arrived. Pat
  12. Great road going car The spark advance should be all the full down to start about 3/4 way up on warm up and all the way up on normal running. You may want to back off in high gear at very low speed to prevent detonation knock. You need to leave space in the radiator for expansion as the coolant heats up. At least have it above the tubes about half way between the tubes and fliller neck. If you can shift into first and reverse sitting still at an idle you clutch would not be causing shifting issues. 1rst to 2nd shifts usually work well getting it rolling about 10mph or less double clutching and letting the revolutions drop top most an idle and use a quick throw into 2nd. Similar unto 3rd. Make sure the transmission fluid is full. It will take some getting used to with no sychromesh and straight cut gears. Its all about matching the revs with the roads speed. Once in third you rarely need to downshift until to stop. The big six will lug down to 5 mph or less. Just use light throttle pressure when in 3rd at very low speeds. Have fun.
  13. My Grandfather on the right drove this ammunition's truck the front line in southern France in the WW1. I would like to identify this truck
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