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Studenut1915

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About Studenut1915

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  • Birthday 12/16/1955

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    Edmonton Alberta Canada

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  1. Hi Chris I have done this. Simple with minimal machining. Click on my picture, scroll down and you will find my history. I also posted about adjusting you transmission pinion. Have fun. Pat
  2. Bloo The oil site gauge simply has a hole in the top that oil flows into and a hole in the bottom for outflow. On my car you can see the flow at an idle and the whole gauge fills with oil going down the road. Pat
  3. Bloo If you go to my response and click on n my car,my history will come. The info is under driveline parts.
  4. Bloo The oil flow gauge is feed off the top of the oil pump, through the gauge and returns to the top front of the engine to feed the distributor and timing gears. You can see the lines in Rust's foto of his engine. If the gauge is bypassed you must have line from the pump to the front of the engine. If not you will starve all the timing gears. My car had the lines removeve an fitting plugged whe i bought my car.i did figure it out before I fired it up. Pat
  5. Hi Rusty My car is an unrestored SD4 built in Walkerville Ontario. understand what 100 years of crud is like. When you removed the nut it should have taken the all the spring tension off. On my SD 4 the pin was difficult to remove the first time but did come out. There is just enough room to get the pin out. The threaded shaft is also threaded into the back of the crankshaft. If you think there is still some spring tension on it you could try to compress the collar enough to turn the threaded shaft enough to remove the tension. It may have been pressurized a bit by pushing in th
  6. Thank you. Nice looking truck. I thought the rad might be for a truck. It was rescured from the Reynolds museum yard in Wetaskewin Alberta Canada before the crusher arrived. Pat
  7. Great road going car The spark advance should be all the full down to start about 3/4 way up on warm up and all the way up on normal running. You may want to back off in high gear at very low speed to prevent detonation knock. You need to leave space in the radiator for expansion as the coolant heats up. At least have it above the tubes about half way between the tubes and fliller neck. If you can shift into first and reverse sitting still at an idle you clutch would not be causing shifting issues. 1rst to 2nd shifts usually work well getting it rolling about 10mp
  8. My Grandfather on the right drove this ammunition's truck the front line in southern France in the WW1. I would like to identify this truck
  9. I have used a 69 Ford f100 master in my 40 Commander. I bolted it into the existing master location. I believe had drill 2 new holes. The new unit had a two bolt flang and the original was three bolt. The brake linkage to master rod was about 1/2 inch short. A spacer rod will need to be installed in the piston tube to to make up for this. New master had the same size piston front and back do no proportiong valve was required. Just a little plumbing. This reduced the pedal pressure and gave price of mind. 64 truck brakes are self centering full actuating. Backing plates will bolt right o
  10. I was unable to find u-joint parts for my 1915. I ended up updating to new style u-joint. I used a u-joint with clips on the inside of the caps. I machined a bit out of the inside faces of the drive shaft and clutch yokes to centre the u-joint and to create a tight fit to the clips. See picture attached. The bearing caps had to be ground out to accept the pinch bolts. The dust cover encloses everything and you can not tell a modification was made. for the rear of the driveshaft, I found some square trunnion on 1917 6 cyl frame. Mine were round and badly worn. I machined hole add a
  11. I have a 1915 SD4 built Canada. It sat for 6o years before I bout it in 2010. I tried to drain the oil but would not come out. I took off the pan and found it was filled with a heavy jelly type mush. Not sure what the situation is with your car. There is a tray that sits above the oil level in the pan that has troughs in it. The throughs are fed from the oil pump and what runs back down into them by gravity. The rod bolts are extended to splash the oil that makes it into the trough into the crankcase. There is no force feed to the bearings. That is the only form of engine lubrication. The pump
  12. Thanks for the reply and additional info. Would someone know the thread size and thread count of the puller required for the rear wheels?
  13. Hi all I found a president the owner claims is a 28 serial number is 7000177. Not great shots it was stuffing in the back of a shed with no lights. I would like to know what year it is and what model might it be? are the brackets on the mat for a rear mount spare or for a trunk. Fender etc were in another shed that I didn't get access to so not sure if it had sidemounts. it is for sale but I'm not sure what it would be worth, the engine would not turn over by hand.
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