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DBKissel

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About DBKissel

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  • Birthday January 7

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    dbkissel@gmail.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Hartford, WI

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  1. Thx to all for suggestions. The fuel does not overflow all the time. It seems to happen randomly on startup. Another time it happens is when the car has run for 30+ minutes and then is stopped. Start it up 5 minutes later and it might overflow. I really like the idea of testing it with the car fuel pump. I can make a tube to fill it off the car and observe with top off and try to reproduce the issue. Maybe rotating the needle [which has a very very slight ridge on one side will do it.] Then the problem is easier to solve. I'm big on getting a new seat and needle valve and hope Ro
  2. The play is 0.096 " as measured with a dial caliper. The needle pivots under the retaining screw cap and when in position, and float is up, the float seems to be level in the bowl.
  3. Just measured the float on a good postal scale- it measured 1.0 oz. Thx for suggestions.
  4. Hi, I keep getting an overfill on my updraft Schebler Model S carb- even after cleaning and filtering the gas. I had a rotary 6VDC Carter pump and dial type regular and was measuring about 3-4 psi at the carb. This even with the regulator dialed to 1 psi. Thinking this was too much for the float needle to hold, I changed to 12 VDC Carter rotary which when running on the system 6VDC, puts out about 0.8psi. This seems to be close to the theoretical vacuum pump head pressure [gravity at 1.5 foot above]. That pressure is about 0.92 psi. I put it all together today and got the same overflow.
  5. Pretty cars Ron- thanks for pointers. If I have to pull everything, I'm with you on replacing all.
  6. Thx Fred, If I do have it apart, I'll be sure to check wear and runout!
  7. I like the simple version. It makes more sense - yikes I was an engineer when I worked- but I only played with wires.
  8. Thank you also for your insight! I hadn't considered testing and matching new springs behind the plungers, but it makes sense. Now I have plenty of things to try before the ultimate removal of the trans to evaluate the clutch lining. /Doug
  9. Thx so much, this is much better explanation of how it works. Here's the Kissel version. a
  10. Thanks everyone for thec contributions to my issue. I'm going to run out to Walmart & grab some. This could be a very happy ending, since I was already prepared to pull the TX and get a new clutch lining done [after trying adjustments of the cone springs], if that didn't work.
  11. I think your onto something here with the braking concept. I couldn't really see the value of the design feature. Thx
  12. OK- The 102 year old Instruction Manual calls for Neatsfoot Oil, but I thought that went out with flappers or the steam oil they seemed to think was great for the transmission. I appreciate everyone's input. I will search for the "Oil". If anyone has a source pls advise. Restoration Supply or ?? Yup I'm new to cone clutches and 2 wheel mechanical breaks too. Had no idea that was part of the charm. Good idea to relieve the cone with stick while sitting- thx also. It only grabs when starting out from a dead stop as the clutch is released. /Doug Kissel
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