DBKissel

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About DBKissel

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  • Birthday January 7

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Hartford, WI

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  1. Just a little more info for anyone else in this situation. The discs I got were 10" OD X 6 " ID x 0.125 " th. The OD was size on size and had to be sanded [I used a table top sander] and slowly rotated. Knocked 1/32" off and they fit. Next found out the 6 inch ID was only good on the flywheel side. The "inner" pad needed to be 6 7/8" minimum. I was able to use a Dremel circle attachment and a jig to hold the disc. It worked. Everything is together now and works great. BTW if you try this wear a really good dust and chemical mask.
  2. Thanks to all with your suggestions- It looks like Gasoila and maybe Rectorseal T+2 would be the best choices. Glad I asked. [Both are availalble on Amazon too!]
  3. Can anyone suggest what they know to be a good sealant for a transmission drain plug? This is a 1925 Kissel Speedster with W140 synthetic gear lube (about to be put in). I have used teflon tape with high quality plumbers pipe dope in the past, but always seem to have a drip. I'm thinking black auto RTV sealant or non hardening form-a-gasket. Just a simple pipe plug a shown. Thoughts?
  4. Not sure what went wrong on my first try with a serpentine belt, but with grooves down, it came off in the first 2 miles and tore it up, so the next one went on grooves out, Just fyi... Thanks for the input and especially the contact for leather belts. also the warm welcome!
  5. Hi all, This may seem trite, but I needed a replacement fan belt for my 25 Speedster. The original belt is leather and 1 inch wide by about 41 inches in circumference. After some searching with no luck, I tried a current production serpentine belt with the ribs out. It actually works! The Fan pulley has guides to retain it, but the engine pulley has a simple raised "hump" in the center, yet it tracks and stays on. Hope this helps someone.
  6. Thanks to all who posted. I just found out from another Kissel owner that an off the shelf Raybestos RWC-1057P works fine. The friction div of Raybestos was sold off, but I went to Capitol Brake & Clutch in Sacramento CA [a distributor that supplied the other owner] who could supply an equivalent part [really cheap too!] $15.35 ea. 10 Inch OD x 6 Inch ID x 0.125 " th. [Yes the 6 inch will work where I currently have 7 inch ID. Good to know the stapling concept- now it makes sense in what I see.
  7. Thank you. I reached out to Ft Wayne and they can make new ones, but don't seem to have the specs. I am reluctant to proceed without knowing what the new nominal thickness should be. So far I reached out to the AACA library to ask them to research it. Any other ideas?
  8. I am looking to replace the friction pads on my 1925 Kissel Speedster. Does anyone know where to find pads? Also is there any kind of installation guide/ tool available? the Clutch says Borg & Beck Type X Model 2 [from what I can make out]. The pads are apx 10 inch OD x apx 7 in ID and measure 0.106 inch thick [by dial caliper] on the 1st pad by the engine, and 0.120 inch thick on the next one. Both are split rings with about 1/2 inch in the gap. I assume this is "normal'. Any help is appreciated!
  9. Thx Ron, I'm not going to show the car for judging, so that's not an issue. I went with Heat Shield from Summit. It's on, but haven't tested the effectiveness yet.
  10. Thank you for your help. I ordered Heat Shield from Summit. I'm really a "Newbie" at posting too. I hope you see this.
  11. Does anyone have an idea where to buy asbestos like material to make a heat shield for an exhaust pipe? My pipe is about 2 inches from the wood firewall and it seems to be quite dangerous. The car has survived this long but it makes me nervous. I have a piece of sheet metal on the firewall now- spaced off about 1/4 inch to reflect some heat. Would prefer to wrap the pipe if a material exists.