Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

95 Excellent


About wmsue

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Have you looked at Logolites? I installed their turn signal kit, brake and run kit, USB charger, and LED headlights. I haven't been touring with my car yet, but I am impressed with their products and ease of installation. I fastened their A-Plate on a fold down platform under the dash to make it easier to get to and so far...so good. Bill
  2. You may try posting this question on the Willys-Overland-Knight-Registry website. www.wokr.org You would have to register and create a user name and password, but you would have full access to the library and the knowledgeable members could possibly help you out. Good Luck and Stay Safe Bill WOKR Forum Adm. Moderator
  3. Hi 02Anders, I have a 28' Whippet Cabriolet Model 96. There was a 6 cyl. model and it would have been a Model 98. If you can post a few photos, I can better help you with identification. Here's a little info that could help..... If your Whippet is a 1929, it is a Model 96A. I'm attaching a document that has the production info and where to find the serial # for your car. The engine serial number should be on the passenger side of the engine and is located near where the head and block join. There should be a small machined area that will be stamped 96XXXXX or 9
  4. I have a 4 screw vacuum canister on my 28 Whippet. I soaked all the parts in vinegar for a few days to clean the passages the needles travel in. I had to solder a few holes on the inner tank and made new gaskets (2) and reassembled. Make sure you do not use any silicone based sealer on the gaskets. Be sure the air vent is open too. Have you opened the canister? Is the float lever operated? Mine is NOT. Mine is a bell shaped float that is supported by a wire. The float is tricky to align, so if you are going to rebuild yours, post a few photos of the inside tank and float. Early Dykes ma
  5. The early WK Model 64 and 65's took 7 quarts. I'll see if I have any info specifically on the Stearns Knight. Bill
  6. I've got them on the front of my 28' Whippet. Here's a bit of info if they are Gabriel Snubbers. They are tricky to say the least to reassemble and difficult to pull tight when adjusting. I've got another article that deals with both. I'll try and dig it up. Strapping is available. Bill
  7. My "Crystal Ball" can't tell the future any better than yours. It's one of those life decisions that you should make and then not look back. One can play 'what if.....' all day long and never come out ahead. Thanks to all who worked on both events and to those tasked with the difficult decision. Bill
  8. Nope, that's what I thought at first. There are 2 torsion rods in place I believe. Trunk opens and closes great. I never removed the trunk lid when I painted the car, but I did remove all the chrome moulding and did some rust repair. I think I removed it when I put the new top and boot on the car. Anybody got a full size mid 60's GM convertible they are restoring and can take a look in the area where the convertible top would rest when open? I just looked through the Service Manual again.....either it's not mentioned or I'm missing it. I'll start looking thro
  9. Can't wait for sure. Both my Buick and my Mini have been up on stands for 2 months waiting for the weather to break. Soon, I hope. Yes, I'm going back to single MC. Going to try and make it factory original. Good luck on your project. Bill
  10. I just ran across this darn rod (again) that I haven't been able to figure out how it re-installs in my 65 Electra Convertible. I had it tagged and labeled as trunk and I think it is used to support the boot cover for the convertible top but I've never been able to figure out how it is installed. I can't find a diagram of it in the service manual. I remember lying on my back and trying to install it and it not fitting. Anybody know? Thanks Bill
  11. I've had the Scarbird setup on my 65 Electra for almost 10 years now. The install went easy in 2011 and all parts were easily obtained. Mine setup called for a variety of parts (see photo below) I installed a dual master cyl with prop. valve. I kept the list of parts and part numbers for who ever might need them. The list came with the install instructions. I used Dot 5 fluid and the brake system worked great. But.....the pedal was always hard and I had to put a lot of pressure on the pedal the first few times braking. After that, it stopped on a dime. Since my daily driver is a Mini
  12. Have you looked at TPtools in Canfield, Oh ? They have compressor sales quite often. I bought mine from TP about 4 years ago and other than replacing the reed valve a few months ago, it has been great. The IR compressor was my second choice. Bill
  13. Hi Jack, Have you tried backing off the nut on the crankshaft that holds the pulley tight to the crank? When my engine was rebuilt, the machine shop was off a few thousands on the thrust bearing so I had to vary the thickness of the shim washer behind the nut in order to get the engine to turn freely? Each of my spare engines had a different thickness washer behind the crank nut. Maybe loosen the nut a bit and try using the starter to spin the engine? Good luck Keep driving the ole WK and stay safe, Bill
  14. My 65 Electra - Sea Foam Green to be precise.
  • Create New...