wmsue

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About wmsue

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  1. wmsue

    Mice repellent

    Just make sure you or your neighbor's cat or dog don't eat the dead mice or the bait. They'll be joining the mice in the cemetery. Bill
  2. wmsue

    Mice repellent

    I've tried dryer sheets, Irish Spring soap, moth balls, ultra sonic plug in's and so far I like mouse traps with peanut butter. I place the traps in the car and in the corners of my shop behind the floor jack.....etc. I bought new plastic traps this year that have a small removable reservoir for the peanut butter. It installs from the bottom and is easy to load and reset. No touching the carcass to discard. I also have a roller setup that is suspended over a 5 gallon bucket. I bait that with peanut butter and give the little critters an easy pathway to get access to the roller. The roller is setup in my potting shed that has a sliding door and it doesn't seal perfectly. It has caught 9 mice so far. Almost forgot to say, you have to put a few inches of water in the bucket. Otherwise they can jump out. Mouse traps have caught 3. So far none in the traps that are in the cars. Good Luck Bill
  3. Your write up looks very detailed and concise. I read through it last night Thanks Don and everyone else. I did call 4 Seasons and I need to add 8 oz. of PAG 150 oil to the reservoir to get a total of 11 oz. before pulling a vacuum. I guess I won't lose all the oil when I evacuate and pull a vacuum. I guess there's lots more to do before I can wrap it up. I'd like to do a good rebuild and not half a##, so a lot more time....and $$ of course. Found a new defroster door vacuum and got it ordered. I also ordered a partial wire harness for the blower motor. The old one was melted. 4 weeks delivery time. After removing the AC hoses I'm going to look at replacing them. A few options but will probably have to send them to the vendor and have new hoses put on. The ends and metal tubing are unique and not readily available. Like Don (TexRiv_63) said in his rebuild post is so true..... " It never fails, I started thinking I would just replace the parts.. then I decided to do a little cleanup and maybe some touchup paint.. then I removed the grille to get more room to work.. then I took off everything on the front of the motor.. now I will be taking off everything loose, cleaning most everything under the hood and detail painting the engine before installing the new a/c stuff. Never fails... I'll be working on a lot of the under the hood details and cleaning things up. The inner fender and firewall are at the top of the list. This repair job started when I was checking the manufacture date on my tires. After finding they were 9 years old, I kept looking at the hoses, belts etc. and here I am. I'm not buying the tires till spring, so I have lots of time to find other things to replace. Bill
  4. Sometimes things just aren't simple, especially if you overthink the problem. I think that's what I do at times. My new compressor is an A6 style exactly like the original but compatible with 134A. It came precharged with 3oz of PAG oil.....but the instructions say to check to be sure to add the recommended amount and type to the compressor. I tried to scan the QR code but the pdf would not load so I went directly to the 4 seasons resource page and still did not get an exact answer. A phone call to 4 seasons will happen tomorrow. 4 seasons show a chart online that has quantity and type of oil for lots of cars, but not my Buick. My confusion is how much oil and which type of PAG oil to add. 4 seasons says to refer to your original manual if needed. My original service manual states that 10.5 oz are needed. If I add the oil to the compressor before I evacuate the system, won't I lose all the oil when I pull a vacuum on the system? In the past I've always added a can of precharged oil and the required refrigerant and used my gauges. And was good to go. I've worked on AC systems that would not work properly when the ambient temp is low. If my system is similar, then I can't get a proper reading? Correct? I will call 4 Seasons this week and hopefully get a better answer. And update the post. thanks for all the replies and help. It's truly appreciated. Bill
  5. So NEW HOSES would be the best way to go. Since they are 50+ years old, it makes sense since I've got a fair amount of $$ already invested. Who sells AC hoses for a 50+ year old car? I see kits available on the internet but the fittings aren't anything like mine. Can I reuse my ends and just get new hose? I checked with Carid, but said they did not have the hose. I did find on their webpage an adapter for the compressor plate that could work if I could find the proper hoses and ends. the plate had 1"-14 threads. I remember making hydraulic hoses when I worked in a machine shop 40 years ago, We had Weatherhead hose and a huge supply of different fittings that we'd crimp onto the hose. But we could never reuse the old fittings. Robert, thanks for the info on Nylog Blue. I've never used it before, but will use now. Thanks Bill
  6. Definitely a Willys Knight. I've been fascinated with the Sleeve Valve Engine for many years and still want to purchase one. ........Maybe one like this !
  7. I'd like to get the AC working for next summer and wanted to get a head start on it now. I'm installing a new (4 seasons) compressor, drier, POA cycling valve, and flushing the entire system on my 65 Buick Electra The old R-12 system took 4.25 lbs , so I'm going to start with 3.75 lbs of R-134A But what about the refrigerant oil? My new 134A compressor came with a 3 oz. charge. My original service manual states that the factory compressor should have 10.5 oz of oil. I checked on the website for 4 seasons and they say to either : refer to factory manual, check the tag on the compressor. and use a PAG oil. Not how much. Or even which PAG oil. I haven't checked with 4 Seasons directly yet, but wanted to post the questions here. So I ordered PAG 46 for R134A oil charge 2 oz. along with a few more quarts of flush to thoroughly clean everything. Should I get enough PAG oil to reach 10 oz.? Since one would generally work on A/C units when the temp is higher, and the temps here are in the 30's right now , I was going to replace parts, flush the A/C system, pull a vacuum on the system, place the oil charge in the system, and put it on hold till I get a warmer day to actually put the remaining R134A. Does this sound like a plan? Any changes to consider? Thanks Bill
  8. Anything like this one? It's from Summit Racing. But the price is high. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dck-1090/overview/ I've seen many like this at swap meets but don't have any on hand. There must be more openings or special configuration? Bill
  9. You've got to be proud when you look at your first posts of the project and now. A first class build. You are correct about projects taking more time and money.......every time. Keep posting updates. Thanks Bill
  10. I'm looking for the bracket the holds the heater control valve for a 65 - Buick Electra (48000 series) Anyone have one they'd like to part with? Or a couple of photos and dimensions so I can fabricate one? thanks
  11. Since my Buick driving is about done for the season, I decided to change the AC compressor and do a bit of maintenance to get ready for next year. I was thinking about posts that I've read on this site concerning tires and decided to take a better look at the belts, hoses, tires etc. on the car. I installed the convertible top and painted the car in 2012. It's been 7 years of driving the Buick but not a lot of miles. I guess I enjoy working on them more then I do driving them. Time sure flies. I found my radial tires are dated 4910 - December 2010 -They should have been replaced a few years ago for sure. The Buick isn't moving out of the garage till I get a new set. Rubber fuel lines dated 2004 - Yikes, the end near the fuel filter is crisp to say the least. Heater hoses dated 2012 - Times up for them. Radiator hoses aren't dated but they are still soft and pliable. Not a bad idea to replace them too, along with a radiator flush. I'll keep looking for other signs of age for sure. I've always checked the fluids before each drive and checked the brake and exhaust system a few times a year. I learned to never go cheap with brakes and exhaust because they can kill you fast. Breaking down on the side of the road isn't fun, but loosing your brakes or CO poisoning is serious business. Hope everyone else looks over their cars and they are not as shocked (embarrassed) as I was. How did I not check the tire dates earlier. Our Boy Scout leader was killed 2 years ago when a tire blew out on the way to Canada with a van load of scouts. None of the boys were seriously injured. So, be sure to look your cars over. Thanks Bill
  12. We just celebrated our 40th anniversary and returned last night from a 2 + week vacation. Great time but no car museums this time. My wife doesn't go into the shop very often, but if I ever need a hand she's 'right there'. On more than one occasion she's had to help bleed brakes, install a car part, or assist with a woodworking project. She doesn't like riding in the old cars or going to the car shows, but she supports my hobby 100%. We've traveled to many states to get car parts and we always add something on her list when on the trip. Latest car trip was to the Gilmore Car Museum in Michigan. A few years ago it was to the Louwman Museum in The Hague. The adventure continues......... My wife said the same thing Ron: "Don't leave me with all this stuff".
  13. Thanks for the update. The big concern for me was the lack of time they gave us to submit the drawings and photos. Three days if I remember correctly. I was able to draw up crude plans but had family commitments to attend to. If the project gets underway again, I would be interested.....again Thank you Steve for all that you do. Bill