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wmsue

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About wmsue

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  • Location:
    Kinsman, Ohio

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  1. Try removing the vacuum line that runs from the intake manifold to the vacuum tank and plug the manifold port. Then clean the plugs and give it a start. The lid of the vacuum tank has 2 small needles that allow fuel to enter the inner canister and/or block off the manifold vacuum when fuel isn't needed. If the needle is stuck (even a little bit) it will allow the vacuum tank to fill with fuel and not vent to atmosphere when full. Fuel will be sucked into the intake manifold, flooding the engine and stalling it. Or the float in the vacuum tank could be full of fuel or sticking.
  2. Have you tried removing the spark plugs and giving each cylinder a short burst of starting fluid, then quickly put the plugs back in and try to start it? That has always worked better for me on an updraft carb. Good Luck Bill
  3. Le me know how you make out with the switch. When does it get tricky making the change over? That's on my to do list. I've got to find some spare track mechanisms and swap them out. Good Luck thanks for the updates. Bill
  4. Thanks for the info. I didn’t know that was even an option. I’ll look into it for sure. thanks
  5. Kanter sells replacement front finned drums for 65 Buicks. Has anyone bought replacement drums from them? Good or Bad? I'm looking at front drums (no hubs) for 100 bucks each. I'd have to then have new studs pressed in them and probably trued up on a brake lathe before using. Do shops still have brake lathes? Any info would be appreciated Thanks Bill
  6. What terminal did you use to wire it to the ignition? Does that terminal have power during 'start' and 'run' occurrence? Or only have power when cranking? Good Luck Bill
  7. I had my drag link remanufactured by Rare Parts a few months ago. Great service and only a 1 week turn around. I paid about $400 for the service (1965 Buick Electra). I did find that the exact same service was available at Autozone for less money. Their ad even said the item was supplied by Rare Parts, and there was a core charge. And after returning the core, I could have saved 75 bucks. Since the part is so difficult to find, I didn't take the chance with a middleman, and dealt with Rare Parts directly. I've also dealt with Then and Now and had great service. Y
  8. You'll probably want to buy a specific manual for your car, but in the mean time here is a link to the Team Buick site that has the info available. Good Luck
  9. That's right around the corner from where I worked. Small world. thanks
  10. Got mine today. Both are packaged up nicely in ONE plastic envelope. Thanks for another great issue of the Bugle and for all the hard work it takes to publish a roster and handbook. Bill
  11. I guess the deciding factor was the thickness of the 'Club Member' letters. They are a bit pudgier than the top and bottom plate. The white background of the middle plate was also too white for it's age. But the more I looked, the more I questioned myself. I went with my first choice. Thanks for posting Chris and Jill Bill
  12. Not sure of a specific car club for Minerva, but they ARE represented by WOKR - Willys Overland Knight Registry. There are approx 40 Minerva's listed in the roster. The Crawford Museum in Cleveland has a great example. Certainly a classy car.
  13. Where were they located in Ohio? Thanks Bill
  14. I had one on my Whippet and sold it with the radio awhile back. The antenna was just an aftermarket item that was mounted on a 90 degree angle bracket and was bolted to the running board. It was mounted in the very inside of the running board and wasn't visible easily. The antenna wire came out the bottom and was routed to the dash board area. Shouldn't be too difficult to manufacture.
  15. Is the engine froze up? Do you have a clear Ohio title? thanks Bill
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