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Ed Davidson

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  1. I'm an experienced automotive wood restorer, my shop is outside Chicago. A guy from New Hampshire wanted parts remade for a '49 Town & Country. and said he had the old pieces. So I said OK, send them. They're in really terrible shape and I told him there wasn't much I could do without the car. He can't deliver it and insists I can make at least so me of the parts. It would really help if I had patterns, drawings with dimensions, detailed photos, SOMETHING! I'd really appreciate anyone out there willing to help me with this.
  2. There are three bows for this car that I have to make. I've made quite a few bows but usually I have the old ones to work with. The rear one is attached to free ends 7/8" wide, and I made a template of the bottom curve, but I'd like to eliminate the guesswork about how wide and how thick it is, and how it probably tapers toward the ends. The middle one sits on a solid L bracket of steel which is again 7/8" deep so I'd probably make it a little over that, but I'm not sure how thick. I made two templates for the front bow, one for the horizontal and one for the vertical and it seems pretty self-explanatory. Any pics or drawings would be appreciated.
  3. Just wondering if there was one or does it just use bumper points of some sort?
  4. Here's a toast to you for shifting my attention to the body instead of the cowl, and to Gunsmoke for al the other things I can try if this doesn't work.
  5. Here is what I just tried, and it made a difference. Jacked up the left side in the upper corner of the rumble seat opening and drew down on the right. This had little effect on the b posts because they are pinned. The second picture was taken when I first got the car, note the strut in place just about where I have it jacked up now. Don't know if the strut is factory or what.
  6. Thanks. You just gave me an idea, going to see if it works.
  7. So far I can't figure out why the cowl on this car is so out of line with the body. The bottom of the green masking tape is in the same spot on both sides. All the measurements up from the sills are the same on both sides and the frame is level front and back. The doors are fit with good margins. Looking for ideas on what might be wrong, any input would be appreciated, even with a little "you dummy, don't you get it"/
  8. This forum has cleared up a few mysteries for me in restoring this car which has really been great, but I have one more. The rear body shell has a cutout on each side of the bottom, directly over the mountings on the chassis, and the "lip" on the bottom barely fits over the mounting because of this. In other words, right where you would think there would be sheet metal over the mounting, there's a cutout! The right thing to do it seems would be to fill in the cutout, but maybe I'm missing something here - at this point don't know what it would be.
  9. Chistech, if you wouldn't mind answering another small point that I don't quite get, is the fact that the rear brackets for the sills are mounted about 3/8" lower that the top of the frame. This was factory, because the vertical arm of the bracket is riveted in. Tis means you have to add 3/8" to the regular shims, making the whole connection more precarious than it should be.
  10. Thanks for your reply. Very helpful information. I have several other car projects in here but am running out of excuses on this one! Got to get it going.
  11. I do have a Fisher Body service manual that came with the car, in it is a picture of the wood but it isn't a great deal of help. I'll check out your thread, thanks.
  12. Well then I'll go with the 1 1/2". This Pontiac was a cheaper car than what I customarily work on, Dusenbergs and Packards and Lincolns, which have all had 1 3/4" sills. The mounting on the chassis is not very stable, which is another problem. The sill is bolted at the cowl and crosses the frame at an angle, ending up on a bracket only 2" extended from the frame, while the wood at that point is around 6" wide, so there's a lot of overhang.
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