christianad1156

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About christianad1156

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  • Birthday 04/13/1984

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  1. I took matters into my own hands! I didn't like the reproduction quality of what I've seen for sale nor did I like the price. I bought my own original book, scanned all the pages, and now I'm selling (at a discount) a CD of all the electronic files on eBay. You can re-print pages, zoom-in, put it on your phone/tablet, etc. Link is here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283480254059 Let me know if you have any questions.
  2. Its been another long time since I've posted. I've been stationed away from my project for almost a year now...heading to Singapore next so I certainly won't get much done soon. However... -I've finished scanning the entire parts book, I'll post a link in the "for sale" section. Its also here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1947-1948-Chrysler-Passenger-Car-Parts-List/283480254059 -I had my car in the shop over the summer back home in Idaho to get rocker replacement work done. The initial estimate was way lower than the estimate to authorize work so I pulled it out of the shop. I've read a few books about welding and got some replacement panels. I'll weld them in myself when I get the chance! -Does anybody have knowledge with an "original" trunk "mat" for a C38? There is a guy on ebay selling one and says it was remade from the one from his car but I would like to get a second source verifying that that is the correct mat before I spend the money. The link is here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1947-1948-Dodge-DeSoto-Chrysler-Repro-Trunk-Mat-From-Original-Pattern/173871424775 Thanks!
  3. r1lark, it was fun and educational. It was a bit more work than I was expecting. I was used to driving a lot at night and going faster but it rained a lot and with 6V taillights I was worried one of those big trucks wasn't going to see me until it was too late. I drove much slower because I didn't want to push the car. I'd have more fun now that I know what to expect! Joe, each replacement filter that I bought has a couple of those o-rings but they don't fit the canister. Ideally, I'd like to find a reliable source for filters that I know fit. I forgot to mention that I bought an original parts book because I was tired of using the poor copy that was given to me when I bought the car. The parts book I had was a copy that Bishko make although I called to ask if they had a better copy and they don't have the one from 1949 even though I have the copy of the receipt from them to the last owner. Regardless, I'm going through taking photos with my phone and turning them into pdfs using an app. Its coming out great. I'm wondering if anybody would be interested in getting a better copy. Maybe I'm the only one that didn't previously have a good copy lol.
  4. Hello again everyone. Its been a while but I thought I'd share and ask a couple of things. First off, I posted some pics of an original oil filter with a machinist rule in case anybody is interested. I was trying to verify the correct size in order to figure out what brand filter to buy for a replacement. I bought two replacement filters from two different sources that said they're exact size replacements. However, each of them were different sizes. The original size looks to me to be 8 inches high, 2 5/8 inch wide, and the center hole about 1 inch. I think the height is most important for this application. Can anybody recommend a brand and brand number that is a good fit? I've also not been able to determine what to get for a gasket for the top of the oil filter. Each of the replacements that came with the filters I bought were the wrong size. Does anybody have a brand/part number for that too? Also, I know this isn't the best place to post this but a guy is selling a 1947 Windsor on eBay that I saw in person. The car is great and he has almost everything that isn't attached on the car including extra trim rings and brand new moulding for the rockers that I wish he'd let me buy lol. Its super original and hasn't been started in a few years. Garage kept its entire life by the looks of it. If I wasn't moving again I'm pretty sure I would buy it. Here's the link if anybody is interested (https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/d/1947-chrysler-windsor/6571583084.html). I also took about 40 photos while I was checking it out. Finally, I've done a lot more research on the car and learned a lot about restoration. I'm starting to get really serious now and realize that I need to get the floor pans replaced. I have a source for the pans but I still need the "cross members" that go under and connect to the body and the body mounts. If there is a source for those, please let me know. I would love to save a few bucks and not pay somebody to build them. Is anybody in the Jacksonville, FL area? That's where I'm moving to next. I'm not sure if I'm going to take the car yet or not.
  5. I just wanted to give an update to a few things: Correction to previous posts here and a separate post about about flasher wiring: The car I was taking apart in a junk was a 1948, not a 1946. I confirmed that my wire providing power to the flasher was burnt from the flasher to somewhere in the harness. I'll post pictures when I take it apart. Big thanks to the guys at RI Wiring for letting me come by to learn and look at their diagrams. I just made a 3000 mile drive from RI to the Seattle area...no problems on the drive at all. Its time to get a garage with the new house and to get serious about restoration. The small fuel line ferrule from the car I was taking apart is a bit too tough for me to get to. I'd have to lift and move the entire car which isn't really possible and even then, might not be safe. I would have liked to been able to offer it but its too much for me to get to. Here are a few pics from the drive.
  6. Just did a 3000 mile trip. With myself and 400 extra pounds in the car I averaged 18 mpg. I'm going to start keeping logs now that I'm driving more in the "city," however, I'm pretty sure its going to be much, much lower. For the highway miles I kept my speed 45-55 the entire way.
  7. If you're talking about the spring for the hook, I used generic "close pin" style spring. I had to take out the rivet and bend the spring a bit but it works well now. Let me know if you'd like pictures. If you're talking about the one on the bottom for the wire-pull portion of the latch, I don't have any info.
  8. Any update on the rubber? Also, which brand/supplier did you use?
  9. The owner's manual being wrong certainly makes the most sense especially with your experience to say otherwise. It doesn't even make must sense to put a circuit breaker and a fuse on the same line. I've been beating myself up about the connections trying to make sense of it! I went out and saw that wire coming from the end of the steering column today for the horn relay. I was expecting it to be run like the directionals but I suspect those were run like they are in order to branch them off and go to the rear taillights as well as the front ones. I disconnected some extra wires and moved them out of the way today which made the under hood wires neat and orderly like they're supposed to be. I had posted about a mystery electrical part under the hood in a separate post that had some dead-ended wires and connections to the dimmer switch. I'm pretty sure now that that may have been a non-mopar foglight set. Regardless, the sloppy job of electrical tape and branches were clouding the rest of the harnesses. Thanks for the help Bob. I hope 48windsor14 logs back in to get this info or found it elsewhere.
  10. So I'm still puzzled about this area... So if the wire feeding the flasher through the circuit breaker comes from the harness...there should be a wire coming from the harness to the ignition switch. Is that correct? If so, does it have a fuse in that line? The reason why I'm asking is because the owner's manual says there is a "directional signal" fuse, 9 amps, and it's located at "wire fuse connector behind instrument panel near ammeter." Does the connection from the harness to the ignition switch go directly from the harness to the ignition switch or is it connected some through something else? On a different matter. I hope this isn't a dumb question but how is the horn connected? I see on the wiring diagram that the horn button is connected to the horn relay but I don't see any wires from the horn ring. I see the three coming down through the column going to the three wire connector but I thought that those were for for power from the flasher and the two wires going out to the lights for the directionals? Doesn't there need to a be at least one (probably two) wires going to the horn ring/horn button?
  11. I looked at the wiring on the '46 again...both the red wires go up into the harness. I'm extra confused because I thought that there was an inline fuse due to wording in the owner's manual. I'll keep digging.
  12. Does anybody know what and where the "transmission solenoid" is for this car? The owner's manual says its supposed to have a 30 amp fuse and calls it a "transmission solenoid." On the wiring diagram from the shop manual, I see something called a "transmission relay." Is this the same thing as the "transmission solenoid?" I'm think they're the same thing but it would be nice to have confirmation. I attached some pictures which show why I have a little bit of confusion. The object labeled "#1" is on the firewall and I'm not sure if its even supposed to be in the car? I have no idea what it is or what it might do. Its not hooked up, it has an old 20 amp fuse in it, I don't see this part on the 1946 Windsor that I'm taking apart at the junkyard, and my car seems to run and shift fine without it being hooked up. Also, the bracket holding in place is just one screw and part of the bracket for the driver's side heater. The object labeled "#2" in the pictures posted is what I suspect to be the "transmission relay" and seems to be hooked up but with possibly some extra wires. It has an old 30 amp fuse in the fuse holder (disregard the "?" in the picture). Should/can I remove "#1" if it doesn't belong? Other news: I still need to go to the junkyard and get that fuel line ferrule and offer it up. I have the headlights, parking lights, taillights, stop light, and instrument lights working finally. I went out for a drive after dark for the first time a few nights ago and it was great!
  13. I think I have this figured out. First of all, the pictures attached are from a 1946 Windsor that I'm slowly taking parts off of and from from my car. The first wire diagram is from the shop manual and the second is from an unknown source, possibly a Motors book. I have a third diagram from a third party but it offers very little value added other than being in color (often wrong colors and with mistakes). I have to say this about my car so that the following info has context. Somebody screwed the the wiring a little. After getting into the cars, I've realized that it looks like the original harness are all still there but some some wires that aren't in harnesses or the ends of some wires have been replaced. Additionally, my harness runs in the wrong spot, which makes things messy and confusing. I'm assuming that nearly all of the 1946 car is all original with the exception of some switches, and in this case, the flasher as well. If I can be so bold...I think there is a mistake in the shop manual's wire diagram. The "white" wire going from the flasher to the connector and up to the turn signal switch should be "red." I say this for two reasons. First, the 1946 car has a red wire in that spot. Secondly, my flasher has an identical red wire coming off the flasher; it the same length and end terminal but it goes nowhere. The wire that is in the place of where I think the red wire should go in the connector is a plain yellow wire with no tracers; it goes through the firewall but not in the harness and has multiple wires spliced off. Although that yellow wire is spliced, they are in the original style and cloth wrapped but it goes nowhere. I'm thinking that it's not supposed to exist. I'm unaware of any plain wire that Chrysler used that didn't have tracers with the possible exception of the wires going through the overhead and running the length of the body to the rear. A possible third reason is that in the shop manual, there is a label for the color of the wire but it has two arrows going to it instead of one. I think the additional arrow was supposed to point to the wire directly under it in the diagram (the wire going from the flasher to the hand brake light switch). I could be wrong, the diagram so far has been pretty good but that is what I'm going for now. Next, from that same terminal, the other red wire going to the hand brake light switch goes up into the harness above and travels through to the left and comes out of the harness that runs down the side and eventually to the firewall under where the heater (or would be if you don't have one). The direction indicator light is the small light on the upper right of the speedo. There is another light that is on the upper left of the speedo that looks like it should be the left turn signal but its not. The small light on the upper right blinks and indicates both left and right direction indicators. The wire is on the terminal alone and looks to be yellow with one black tracer. The last wire, going from the circuit breaker to the ignition switch is red with I think one yellow tracer. I imagine it goes up in the harness and back out after it passes over the gauges and to the ignition switch but I really don't know. I have to take a look at the 1946 again. I also have to get in my dash and see if I have that wire somewhere. If I don't have it, that might mean that it doesn't go into the harness (meaning somebody removed it from my car which wouldn't be possible if it were in the harness since mine is still wrapped). Note that on pics of the 1946 car, the flasher looks like it has been replaced and lacks a circuit breaker. I have no idea what the deal with mine is. EVERYTHING ABOVE IS MY BEST EDUCATED GUESS. If somebody has different information, PLEASE correct me. I hope this helps and that the pictures are ok.
  14. I might know....I'm in the early stages of verifying my wiring and fixing a few things. I'll take pics this weekend and get better answer.
  15. Those are great pics....thanks. I'm picking apart a '46 at a junkyard and have taken most everything out of the dash at this point. There are still a couple of extra switches and wiper assembly that I'm going to grab. I haven't figured out how to take out the dash yet...I have a feeling I'm making this job harder than it needs to be. My goal is put my wires were they belong, taking apart the junkyard car is teaching me were they go and giving me spare parts. Should/can I take out the dash with everything still installed? I know I'd have to disconnect at least the oil pressure line, speedo line, and temp gauge line. About the fuel line part, I can see if I can take out that fitting that goes in between the fuel tank and fuel line from the junkyard. It wouldn't be the converter/extended length gas tank fitting that Auto City Classic carries. If anybody needs it just let me know and I'll check next time I go back there (which will probably be soon).