christianad1156

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About christianad1156

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  1. Chip, I know I'm joining the conversation late but do you have an update on Miss Daisy? I'm working on my car, a 48 Windsor Sedan. This is my first old car project and realized I picked a tough one! I have a 69 Chevy pickup and I'm spoiled with all the aftermarket parts and trucks that are still out there. I've been pretty deep in a few junkyards mostly for fun and to learn. I took most of a 48 apart in Massachusetts when I lived up there and have a bunch of pics of various things. I had a great time helping a guy who was selling a very original car in WA but I lost his phone number. I got some great photos from that too. Anyway, clocks seem to be available on ebay regularly. There is a brand new one in the original box on there right now. Not bad for the price. I would start out calling some of the restoration places that advertise for clocks and see who knows who. Those guys that specialize seem to know each other. After you find the problem in the clock, you can probably get a donor pretty easily. I don't see an answer to your question about the brake tool. However, I spent some time with the same issue of adjustment. That tool is very rare. I found an old article about how to build your own but it didn't seem very reasonable to me. I can dig it up if you want. The way I did mine was to lift my car and adjust the setting near the bolt first. I spun the wheel, adjusted that bolt until the tire stopped spinning and backed off just a bit. Then I did the same for the top settings for each shoe. Its certainly not perfect but it brought the clearance pretty close to what is needed to be effective. Wear has been good as well. I don't know if you replaced your brake tubing. I did and it was one of the few things I didn't worry about keeping "original." I used a stainless steel tube that was built to the original shape/lengths and has the same "coil" over the tubing where it is supposed to. For wiring, I only have experience with RI Wiring. They make original style braided wiring to the exact specs of the original harnesses. have had several fantastic experiences with them. I went to their location to see how they make the wires and see all the steps they take. Great folks and great products. The guy I talked to took me around and spent over an hour talking with me. Anyway, looking forward to hearing an update. Christian
  2. Peter, no sorry, I was mistaken. Not RCI. REM is the company I was thinking of: https://www.remautoinc.com/.
  3. Peter, welcome. I also have a 48 Windsor that I'm (very) slowly working on. The handles that keiser linked above are the correct ones for the car. I have a mix of the correct ones and the later models that are all chrome that Rusty mentioned. I also happen to have a few extra from a parts car and junkyard cars that I will put on mine eventually. I've never seen any that are in great shape that aren't super expensive. I have a some links for places and cards of folks that have odds and ends or that specialize for certain items but not for door handles. However, this forum has a ton of knowledge and experience. I also have a pretty good amount of literature that I'm kind of proud of. I believe that there were two carbs for the Windors depending on serial numbers. Both are not uncommon and I've seen re-build kits for them. There are some NOS/NORS out there available but there are also newer kits. I would start with Roberts or Bernbaum. Same for the carpet. There is also a company called that makes kick panels and glove boxes; I think they have carpet kits too...want to say their name is RCI or something like that. I'd have check my garage for a box or my receipts to be sure. This page has some links too: https://www.chryslerclub.org/reproduction.html Let me what you end up with for carpets, I need to replace all of mine after I do metal work and blast/paint. Can you post some pics of the car?
  4. Bob, Great advice from great experience as always. I don't know why but I didn't realize that Bernbaum had an eBay store! Christian
  5. I took matters into my own hands! I didn't like the reproduction quality of what I've seen for sale nor did I like the price. I bought my own original book, scanned all the pages, and now I'm selling (at a discount) a CD of all the electronic files on eBay. You can re-print pages, zoom-in, put it on your phone/tablet, etc. Link is here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283480254059 Let me know if you have any questions.
  6. Its been another long time since I've posted. I've been stationed away from my project for almost a year now...heading to Singapore next so I certainly won't get much done soon. However... -I've finished scanning the entire parts book, I'll post a link in the "for sale" section. Its also here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1947-1948-Chrysler-Passenger-Car-Parts-List/283480254059 -I had my car in the shop over the summer back home in Idaho to get rocker replacement work done. The initial estimate was way lower than the estimate to authorize work so I pulled it out of the shop. I've read a few books about welding and got some replacement panels. I'll weld them in myself when I get the chance! -Does anybody have knowledge with an "original" trunk "mat" for a C38? There is a guy on ebay selling one and says it was remade from the one from his car but I would like to get a second source verifying that that is the correct mat before I spend the money. The link is here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1947-1948-Dodge-DeSoto-Chrysler-Repro-Trunk-Mat-From-Original-Pattern/173871424775 Thanks!
  7. r1lark, it was fun and educational. It was a bit more work than I was expecting. I was used to driving a lot at night and going faster but it rained a lot and with 6V taillights I was worried one of those big trucks wasn't going to see me until it was too late. I drove much slower because I didn't want to push the car. I'd have more fun now that I know what to expect! Joe, each replacement filter that I bought has a couple of those o-rings but they don't fit the canister. Ideally, I'd like to find a reliable source for filters that I know fit. I forgot to mention that I bought an original parts book because I was tired of using the poor copy that was given to me when I bought the car. The parts book I had was a copy that Bishko make although I called to ask if they had a better copy and they don't have the one from 1949 even though I have the copy of the receipt from them to the last owner. Regardless, I'm going through taking photos with my phone and turning them into pdfs using an app. Its coming out great. I'm wondering if anybody would be interested in getting a better copy. Maybe I'm the only one that didn't previously have a good copy lol.
  8. Hello again everyone. Its been a while but I thought I'd share and ask a couple of things. First off, I posted some pics of an original oil filter with a machinist rule in case anybody is interested. I was trying to verify the correct size in order to figure out what brand filter to buy for a replacement. I bought two replacement filters from two different sources that said they're exact size replacements. However, each of them were different sizes. The original size looks to me to be 8 inches high, 2 5/8 inch wide, and the center hole about 1 inch. I think the height is most important for this application. Can anybody recommend a brand and brand number that is a good fit? I've also not been able to determine what to get for a gasket for the top of the oil filter. Each of the replacements that came with the filters I bought were the wrong size. Does anybody have a brand/part number for that too? Also, I know this isn't the best place to post this but a guy is selling a 1947 Windsor on eBay that I saw in person. The car is great and he has almost everything that isn't attached on the car including extra trim rings and brand new moulding for the rockers that I wish he'd let me buy lol. Its super original and hasn't been started in a few years. Garage kept its entire life by the looks of it. If I wasn't moving again I'm pretty sure I would buy it. Here's the link if anybody is interested (https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/d/1947-chrysler-windsor/6571583084.html). I also took about 40 photos while I was checking it out. Finally, I've done a lot more research on the car and learned a lot about restoration. I'm starting to get really serious now and realize that I need to get the floor pans replaced. I have a source for the pans but I still need the "cross members" that go under and connect to the body and the body mounts. If there is a source for those, please let me know. I would love to save a few bucks and not pay somebody to build them. Is anybody in the Jacksonville, FL area? That's where I'm moving to next. I'm not sure if I'm going to take the car yet or not.
  9. I just wanted to give an update to a few things: Correction to previous posts here and a separate post about about flasher wiring: The car I was taking apart in a junk was a 1948, not a 1946. I confirmed that my wire providing power to the flasher was burnt from the flasher to somewhere in the harness. I'll post pictures when I take it apart. Big thanks to the guys at RI Wiring for letting me come by to learn and look at their diagrams. I just made a 3000 mile drive from RI to the Seattle area...no problems on the drive at all. Its time to get a garage with the new house and to get serious about restoration. The small fuel line ferrule from the car I was taking apart is a bit too tough for me to get to. I'd have to lift and move the entire car which isn't really possible and even then, might not be safe. I would have liked to been able to offer it but its too much for me to get to. Here are a few pics from the drive.
  10. Just did a 3000 mile trip. With myself and 400 extra pounds in the car I averaged 18 mpg. I'm going to start keeping logs now that I'm driving more in the "city," however, I'm pretty sure its going to be much, much lower. For the highway miles I kept my speed 45-55 the entire way.
  11. If you're talking about the spring for the hook, I used generic "close pin" style spring. I had to take out the rivet and bend the spring a bit but it works well now. Let me know if you'd like pictures. If you're talking about the one on the bottom for the wire-pull portion of the latch, I don't have any info.
  12. Any update on the rubber? Also, which brand/supplier did you use?
  13. The owner's manual being wrong certainly makes the most sense especially with your experience to say otherwise. It doesn't even make must sense to put a circuit breaker and a fuse on the same line. I've been beating myself up about the connections trying to make sense of it! I went out and saw that wire coming from the end of the steering column today for the horn relay. I was expecting it to be run like the directionals but I suspect those were run like they are in order to branch them off and go to the rear taillights as well as the front ones. I disconnected some extra wires and moved them out of the way today which made the under hood wires neat and orderly like they're supposed to be. I had posted about a mystery electrical part under the hood in a separate post that had some dead-ended wires and connections to the dimmer switch. I'm pretty sure now that that may have been a non-mopar foglight set. Regardless, the sloppy job of electrical tape and branches were clouding the rest of the harnesses. Thanks for the help Bob. I hope 48windsor14 logs back in to get this info or found it elsewhere.
  14. So I'm still puzzled about this area... So if the wire feeding the flasher through the circuit breaker comes from the harness...there should be a wire coming from the harness to the ignition switch. Is that correct? If so, does it have a fuse in that line? The reason why I'm asking is because the owner's manual says there is a "directional signal" fuse, 9 amps, and it's located at "wire fuse connector behind instrument panel near ammeter." Does the connection from the harness to the ignition switch go directly from the harness to the ignition switch or is it connected some through something else? On a different matter. I hope this isn't a dumb question but how is the horn connected? I see on the wiring diagram that the horn button is connected to the horn relay but I don't see any wires from the horn ring. I see the three coming down through the column going to the three wire connector but I thought that those were for for power from the flasher and the two wires going out to the lights for the directionals? Doesn't there need to a be at least one (probably two) wires going to the horn ring/horn button?
  15. I looked at the wiring on the '46 again...both the red wires go up into the harness. I'm extra confused because I thought that there was an inline fuse due to wording in the owner's manual. I'll keep digging.