nsbrassnut

Members
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About nsbrassnut

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Dave Congratulations on picking up a Hudson 6-40. There aren't too may left and from my correspondance with a few others, most appear to be in west and midwest. Although I'm on the east coast of Canada with an early model 6-40. Mine has has repairs over the years, but has had not yet had a proper restoration that it needs. The serial number can be found in two places. One is on a brass data plate which should be on the front seat heal board below the seat cushion. Most of those are gone however. The other spot is on the right front frame horn on the inside of the vertical web. Its usually buried under a layer of paint. There should be an engine number on the aluminum crankcase. Look for a flat spot above the cover plate for the Delco starter gears cover. The engine number is shorter than the serial number. Perhaps you have already sorted out the running issue. But just in case, these cars have gravity fuel feed systems from the tank under the cowl. To help prevent the gas dripping out through a miss set carburetor, they installed a shut off valve on the tank outlet. The original is a ball valve with a rod under the gas tank to under the dash so that you can shut the fuel off from inside the car. If the valve is missing, install one, even a modern one is better than nothing. Sounds like step one is to make sure that the fuel is flowing freely to the carburetor. You should be able to check by taking the cover off the float chamber and then open the gas valve and see that the gas is free flowing. Be sure tho check the timing also. Its easy for the timing to drift off as the rotor is only held in place by screw and clamp in the distributor (its like a bicycle fork clamp). The instructions for setting the timing are in the manual, which hopefully you have found a copy. A good spring shop, either automotive or truck should be able to help with spring leaves and repairs. Mine had 3 broken leaves spread over 3 springs. It still doesn't site quite right though. I'm less sure of the 1915 models, but when they were introduced in 1914 Hudson they still had bugs in them. And when you dig into the construction you can also see where Hudson cut some corners trying to keep the cost down. I have found in mine and heard from others that they didn't use the best quality wood in the bodies often either. Mine was eaten out by carpenter ants and a mixture of oak, maple(?) and perhaps other stuff. There were several changes between 1914 and 1915 models. I got a lot of help from Bob Hopkins in the Sacremento CA area that has been campaining his 1915 for decades to the point he had to rebuild his engine for the second time a few years ago. I got a ride in it a few years ago and it could really perform. He knew of at least two more of them in his area. Good luck with it. Drive Safe Jeff Nova Scotia
  2. Hi All Following the slight Garford drift. Here is a picture of the early, and big Studebaker that I think Eric Edwards later purchased when it was for sale at a HCCA swap meet several years ago (I think it was in Keene, NH). Labeled as a Studebaker, I think it was made by Garford and just marketed at Studebaker. And if memory is correct, I think it still had factory low tension mechanical breaker ignition instead of spark plugs.
  3. Hi Greg I have the same problem. A spare RHD aluminum hogs head, but no pedals. I am one of the miss-guided local T guys that tries to gather up any RHD parts that I can find for future projects. The lower steering bracket should be cast iron for RHD. I haven't never seen a brass/bronze one so yours is likely a reproduction. I occasionally will part with a spare, if I have enough of them. 😉 PM me and we can check into Canadian RHD a bit more if you are interested. Jeff Near the East Coast Port.
  4. Hi All Well this is an interesting discussion. As an owner of an RHD in a LHD here is one owner’s perspective. First, a thank you to Gill for the complement on my ’15 Ford Canadian RHD roadster. Here in Nova Scotia, we drove on the left side of the road up to 1923 before switching over as did the neighbouring provinces. Ford Canada built both LHD and RHD for the Canadian markets and early on also for Australia and the UK. So for me, locating and restoring a local RHD model was high on the desirability list. I’m not the only one in the area either as there are around a half dozen or more restored RHD Ts. So for me it was worth a small premium to acquire a RHD even when living in a LHD world. However since I live in a busy area and want to drive on the road, I did add electric brake and turn signals to the car for visibility before ever leaving the drive way. As to the RHD vs LHD value. As with real estate, location, location, location. RHD Ts are the odd ball and sometimes less desirable model in North America. However take that same car to the UK (or perhaps Australia) where the values for Ts is higher to start with (then here anyway) and I expect that a ready to run RHD T would attract a premium over a similar LHD model in a RHD market. The market location says it all. The LHD E Type Jaguar is more desirable here than an RHD model, but take the same car to the UK and the relative value will be reversed. So the like most of the collector car market, location and the eye of the beholder is a big part of the perceived and market value of any car by purchaser. Drive Safe Jeff Nova Scotia Canada
  5. Hi Great by, interesting car. As everyone has already said. Put the car on jacks, open then engine and transmission for inspection and go through the suspension and brakes. Sorted out they are quite the car to run and drive. The first thing you should is contact the McLaughin Buick Club of Canada and join it. It covers all years of McLaughlin's and will be able to provide help and contacts for more information on how to service the car. Their website can be found by Google, I'll try including it below. http://www.mclaughlin-buickclub.ca/ Drive Safe Jeff Nova Scotia
  6. They are 1915 Hudson 6-40 roadster or touring doors. 1914 Hudson 6-40 has the same interior pattern, but different hinges. I have a '14 and a pair of '15 rear doors that are identical. I would have to check the door dimensions to confirm if they are front or rear doors. The rears are slightly longer.
  7. Most of the time I"m not good or in the mood for answering the same question over and over when showing or driving my one cylinder Cadillac. I once saw a sign on an old car which reads like "Answers to Frequently Asked Questions" and made up one for my car and leave it with the booklet on the car's restoration on the front seat. The last on the list: What's it worth? What are your spouse/children worth. Most get it and smile. Jeff Nova Scotia, Canada
  8. Hi Leif I think you have identified them. Thanks Jeff NSBrassNut Nova Scotia Canada
  9. Hi All Saw these at a friend's shop during a recent garage tour. None of us could identify the lights. I think they are from the 1930 to 1934 period. Wondering if anyone here could identify them. Thanks NSBrassNut Canada
  10. My friend also saw his oil pressure disappear due to gas getting by the rings and into the oil when the gas was sucked from the vacuum tank When the oil pressure drops, stop the engine before its damaged. Check how much gas is being used. If the gas consumption appears high, its another sign its being sucked into the engine. Good Luck NSBrassNut Canada
  11. Another suggestion to check. Does your Dort use a vacuum tank to suck the fuel from a rear tank then drain to the carburater? I friend had a problem last summer with white and sometimes wet clear vapour coming out the tail pipe when the engine was running. He described it as gas coming out the tail pipe. I didn't believe it a first, then when I saw it and looked closer it really was gas. You could collect it on your hand and smell it. In his case his car had an earlier style Stewart vacuum tank which doe not have a back seat. The vacuum valve seat inside the top of the tank came loose and the engine vacuum would not shut off so the tank filled completely with gas and then sucked gas into the intake manifold and blew most of it out the tail pipe. Disconnecting the vacuum line from the vacuum tank and plugging it temporarily for a test. If the engine runs with no white vapour, then the problem is likely leaks in the vacuum tank valves. His tank leaked bad enough and long enough that gas started to get by the rings and into the crankcase oil. Just a suggestion. NSBrassNut Canada
  12. Hi You could be looking for either speedometer for a right hand drive car. "Standard" models for the Canadian market would have been left hand drive with mph speedometers. The last provinces in Canada to change from driving on the left of the road to the right of the road switched in 1923. All used imperial measure and miles per hour until the change to metric in the 1970's. Several companies with assembly plants in Canada also were able to tap into "favoured nation" status for exporting to other countries in the British Commonweath, such as Australia and New Zealand. This route had lower import taxes in the destination country then would have been applied to US build cars. For example, Ford of Canada built and shipped both left and right hand drive Ts and As from the Canadian factory. . So if it is a right hand drive car it could have been factory equipped either way depending on where it was shipped to. Drive Safe Jeff East Coast of Canada
  13. I had a similar problem on my '36 120 that took a year to find the actual and very simple problem. Symptoms: - Engine rebuilt with 20,000 miles on it. - Started fine - Idled fine - Ran fine on the level - Up hill, occasional to regular miss-fire and loss of power (it would nearly quit) - Timing and electrical circuts all passed tests standing still in the shop, but would sometimes hesitate when the accellerator was pumped and the engine reved up. Eventually the problem was linked to whenever the vacuum advance was in action, which happens when climbing hills and the engine vacuum drops. The causes the distributer point plate to rotate inside the distributor. There is a wire inside the distributer between the distributer power supply outside and the points inside the distributer plate. The wire looked fine, but has frayed inside and was actually broken inside. When at idle the wires touched and it ran fine. When the vacuum dropped point plate moved and the wires inside disconneted and the distributer lost power. The wire would even give false readings with an ohm meter when flexing the wire would make and break the connection inside. When a new wire was installed, the problem went away and its been great since. I lost a whole driving season trying to figure that one out. Good luck with your search.
  14. Great looking Buick. I hope you find a proper future caretaker for it. Some suggestions for the engine. If it ran within a year or two, there may be another reason other than the pistons for it not turning over. If the engine was not fully warmed up enough to fully oil the valve train, it could be as simple as a stuck valve. I have had this happen to two cars when sitting in storage. It has happened in as little as a couple months and the usual culprite is one of the exhaust valves. You can sometimes test for this by trying to rock the crankshaft with a wrench on the front pulley. The crankshaft may be able to be moved a couple of degrees back and forth which at least tells that the bearings are free. I would recommend taking off the valve cover and then oiling the valve stems. When there is some clearence between the valves and pistons then a second test is to carefully use a lever or soft mallet) to check that the valves are free to move. The stuck one will be obvious. This was the saving grace with a Hudson that was purchased at auction with a "stuck motor". Some careful work on the valve train and the engine freed right up. I was able to free up another with an L-head 8 with the head on when the stuck exhaust valve was under the spark plug hole. Another good alternative is to take off the head and check the pistons and valves. It is more work, but it will show the problem quickly.
  15. Have you considered posting it on Youtube also? It can be easier to find there.