nsbrassnut

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About nsbrassnut

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  1. They are 1915 Hudson 6-40 roadster or touring doors. 1914 Hudson 6-40 has the same interior pattern, but different hinges. I have a '14 and a pair of '15 rear doors that are identical. I would have to check the door dimensions to confirm if they are front or rear doors. The rears are slightly longer.
  2. Most of the time I"m not good or in the mood for answering the same question over and over when showing or driving my one cylinder Cadillac. I once saw a sign on an old car which reads like "Answers to Frequently Asked Questions" and made up one for my car and leave it with the booklet on the car's restoration on the front seat. The last on the list: What's it worth? What are your spouse/children worth. Most get it and smile. Jeff Nova Scotia, Canada
  3. Hi Leif I think you have identified them. Thanks Jeff NSBrassNut Nova Scotia Canada
  4. Hi All Saw these at a friend's shop during a recent garage tour. None of us could identify the lights. I think they are from the 1930 to 1934 period. Wondering if anyone here could identify them. Thanks NSBrassNut Canada
  5. My friend also saw his oil pressure disappear due to gas getting by the rings and into the oil when the gas was sucked from the vacuum tank When the oil pressure drops, stop the engine before its damaged. Check how much gas is being used. If the gas consumption appears high, its another sign its being sucked into the engine. Good Luck NSBrassNut Canada
  6. Another suggestion to check. Does your Dort use a vacuum tank to suck the fuel from a rear tank then drain to the carburater? I friend had a problem last summer with white and sometimes wet clear vapour coming out the tail pipe when the engine was running. He described it as gas coming out the tail pipe. I didn't believe it a first, then when I saw it and looked closer it really was gas. You could collect it on your hand and smell it. In his case his car had an earlier style Stewart vacuum tank which doe not have a back seat. The vacuum valve seat inside the top of the tank came loose and the engine vacuum would not shut off so the tank filled completely with gas and then sucked gas into the intake manifold and blew most of it out the tail pipe. Disconnecting the vacuum line from the vacuum tank and plugging it temporarily for a test. If the engine runs with no white vapour, then the problem is likely leaks in the vacuum tank valves. His tank leaked bad enough and long enough that gas started to get by the rings and into the crankcase oil. Just a suggestion. NSBrassNut Canada
  7. Hi You could be looking for either speedometer for a right hand drive car. "Standard" models for the Canadian market would have been left hand drive with mph speedometers. The last provinces in Canada to change from driving on the left of the road to the right of the road switched in 1923. All used imperial measure and miles per hour until the change to metric in the 1970's. Several companies with assembly plants in Canada also were able to tap into "favoured nation" status for exporting to other countries in the British Commonweath, such as Australia and New Zealand. This route had lower import taxes in the destination country then would have been applied to US build cars. For example, Ford of Canada built and shipped both left and right hand drive Ts and As from the Canadian factory. . So if it is a right hand drive car it could have been factory equipped either way depending on where it was shipped to. Drive Safe Jeff East Coast of Canada
  8. I had a similar problem on my '36 120 that took a year to find the actual and very simple problem. Symptoms: - Engine rebuilt with 20,000 miles on it. - Started fine - Idled fine - Ran fine on the level - Up hill, occasional to regular miss-fire and loss of power (it would nearly quit) - Timing and electrical circuts all passed tests standing still in the shop, but would sometimes hesitate when the accellerator was pumped and the engine reved up. Eventually the problem was linked to whenever the vacuum advance was in action, which happens when climbing hills and the engine vacuum drops. The causes the distributer point plate to rotate inside the distributor. There is a wire inside the distributer between the distributer power supply outside and the points inside the distributer plate. The wire looked fine, but has frayed inside and was actually broken inside. When at idle the wires touched and it ran fine. When the vacuum dropped point plate moved and the wires inside disconneted and the distributer lost power. The wire would even give false readings with an ohm meter when flexing the wire would make and break the connection inside. When a new wire was installed, the problem went away and its been great since. I lost a whole driving season trying to figure that one out. Good luck with your search.
  9. Great looking Buick. I hope you find a proper future caretaker for it. Some suggestions for the engine. If it ran within a year or two, there may be another reason other than the pistons for it not turning over. If the engine was not fully warmed up enough to fully oil the valve train, it could be as simple as a stuck valve. I have had this happen to two cars when sitting in storage. It has happened in as little as a couple months and the usual culprite is one of the exhaust valves. You can sometimes test for this by trying to rock the crankshaft with a wrench on the front pulley. The crankshaft may be able to be moved a couple of degrees back and forth which at least tells that the bearings are free. I would recommend taking off the valve cover and then oiling the valve stems. When there is some clearence between the valves and pistons then a second test is to carefully use a lever or soft mallet) to check that the valves are free to move. The stuck one will be obvious. This was the saving grace with a Hudson that was purchased at auction with a "stuck motor". Some careful work on the valve train and the engine freed right up. I was able to free up another with an L-head 8 with the head on when the stuck exhaust valve was under the spark plug hole. Another good alternative is to take off the head and check the pistons and valves. It is more work, but it will show the problem quickly.
  10. Have you considered posting it on Youtube also? It can be easier to find there.
  11. It a single cylinder Cadillac front fender, 05 to early 08. Someone already took off the mounting brackets, probably to install on a replacement fender. These fenders are simple with rolled wire edges and riveted mounting brackets. Many people make new fenders and transfer the mounting brackets. Often easier then repairing the old fender and trying to get it smooth again when you can see both sides. Might be good for someone for a pattern.
  12. I believe that the place to look is the center or right of the upper toe board where it meets the firewall. McLauglins of the late teens and early twenties placed the manufacturer's tag with the serial number on the wooden floor board. The plate is often missing by the time a car is collected. I have seen it there on a '20 and '23 models.
  13. Hi All I understand that last year a different bus contractor was used for the free shuttle bus between Highfield, Hershey and the fields. Previous to 2010 the shuttle buses would leave out the last couple rows of seats to make room for buyers cars & prizes. Last year (2010) the buses had all the seats in instead. This made is much harder to bring along your parts cart and purchases on the shuttle. Does anyone know whether the shuttle busses will have the last seats removed this year to leave room for carts and purchases? The extra space makes a big difference in how one plans to get stuff out of the fields. Drive Safe
  14. Hi Jeff Any idea what part of Canada he may have come from. There was/is a branch of the Volgler family here in Nova Scotia, Canada (East Coast). There is a Vogler's Cove named after the family down the shore from here and a now closed Vogler's general store. Drive Safe Jeff
  15. Marvels. I recently had my first experiences with these dreaded beasts. I friend recently picked up a neat 1930 Essex roadster which had been stored un-used for the last 25+ years. When cleaned up and first run it barely run and then only on near full choke. It took three sessions for us to figure out the basics. It has the die cast body and air valve. Problems, the air valve would not move freely on the hinge pin. Careful filing of the seal ridge on the air valve flapper was require to restore free movement. Ran but still required choke. Next, the passages looked good, but we found build up in the low speed jet. Carb cleaner and fine wire cleaned out the barely visible varnish. Started up and pushed the choke in and it stay running. We took it around the block and he said this was the first time it made it without stalling and quiting. Next round is to better tune the mixture etc to reduce some smoking. It was a great help that he had a spare carburetor that came with the car. We took it apart and put it together twice for practice to see how to work on the parts before attempting to fix the one on the car. Key learning, the air valve flapper distorts with age and can bind inside the body. It should be check on occasion by removing the carb from the car and checking for free movement of the valve and piston. Looking forward to learning more as we get his Essex to run properly. Drive Safe Jeff