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nsbrassnut

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About nsbrassnut

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  1. Hi All This has been an interesting thread to follow. I have had a little experience on both sides of the equation and would like to pass along a couple stories for consideration. A bit over 40 years ago when I was starting out in the hobby an older member of the car club that I belonged to took me for a country drive with him in his ’52 Chrysler with the fluid drive transmission. A few weeks later he suggested to this then 18 year old teenager, take my Chrysler to the antique car show this weekend in the town that was 60 miles away; he couldn’t attend. That was a big lump of tr
  2. Hi Dave Congratulations on picking up a Hudson 6-40. There aren't too may left and from my correspondance with a few others, most appear to be in west and midwest. Although I'm on the east coast of Canada with an early model 6-40. Mine has has repairs over the years, but has had not yet had a proper restoration that it needs. The serial number can be found in two places. One is on a brass data plate which should be on the front seat heal board below the seat cushion. Most of those are gone however. The other spot is on the right front frame horn on the inside of the ver
  3. Hi All Following the slight Garford drift. Here is a picture of the early, and big Studebaker that I think Eric Edwards later purchased when it was for sale at a HCCA swap meet several years ago (I think it was in Keene, NH). Labeled as a Studebaker, I think it was made by Garford and just marketed at Studebaker. And if memory is correct, I think it still had factory low tension mechanical breaker ignition instead of spark plugs.
  4. Hi Greg I have the same problem. A spare RHD aluminum hogs head, but no pedals. I am one of the miss-guided local T guys that tries to gather up any RHD parts that I can find for future projects. The lower steering bracket should be cast iron for RHD. I haven't never seen a brass/bronze one so yours is likely a reproduction. I occasionally will part with a spare, if I have enough of them. 😉 PM me and we can check into Canadian RHD a bit more if you are interested. Jeff Near the East Coast Port.
  5. Hi All Well this is an interesting discussion. As an owner of an RHD in a LHD here is one owner’s perspective. First, a thank you to Gill for the complement on my ’15 Ford Canadian RHD roadster. Here in Nova Scotia, we drove on the left side of the road up to 1923 before switching over as did the neighbouring provinces. Ford Canada built both LHD and RHD for the Canadian markets and early on also for Australia and the UK. So for me, locating and restoring a local RHD model was high on the desirability list. I’m not the only one in the area either as there are around a half
  6. Hi Great by, interesting car. As everyone has already said. Put the car on jacks, open then engine and transmission for inspection and go through the suspension and brakes. Sorted out they are quite the car to run and drive. The first thing you should is contact the McLaughin Buick Club of Canada and join it. It covers all years of McLaughlin's and will be able to provide help and contacts for more information on how to service the car. Their website can be found by Google, I'll try including it below. http://www.mclaughlin-buickclub.ca/
  7. They are 1915 Hudson 6-40 roadster or touring doors. 1914 Hudson 6-40 has the same interior pattern, but different hinges. I have a '14 and a pair of '15 rear doors that are identical. I would have to check the door dimensions to confirm if they are front or rear doors. The rears are slightly longer.
  8. Most of the time I"m not good or in the mood for answering the same question over and over when showing or driving my one cylinder Cadillac. I once saw a sign on an old car which reads like "Answers to Frequently Asked Questions" and made up one for my car and leave it with the booklet on the car's restoration on the front seat. The last on the list: What's it worth? What are your spouse/children worth. Most get it and smile. Jeff Nova Scotia, Canada
  9. Hi Leif I think you have identified them. Thanks Jeff NSBrassNut Nova Scotia Canada
  10. Hi All Saw these at a friend's shop during a recent garage tour. None of us could identify the lights. I think they are from the 1930 to 1934 period. Wondering if anyone here could identify them. Thanks NSBrassNut Canada
  11. My friend also saw his oil pressure disappear due to gas getting by the rings and into the oil when the gas was sucked from the vacuum tank When the oil pressure drops, stop the engine before its damaged. Check how much gas is being used. If the gas consumption appears high, its another sign its being sucked into the engine. Good Luck NSBrassNut Canada
  12. Another suggestion to check. Does your Dort use a vacuum tank to suck the fuel from a rear tank then drain to the carburater? I friend had a problem last summer with white and sometimes wet clear vapour coming out the tail pipe when the engine was running. He described it as gas coming out the tail pipe. I didn't believe it a first, then when I saw it and looked closer it really was gas. You could collect it on your hand and smell it. In his case his car had an earlier style Stewart vacuum tank which doe not have a back seat. The vacuum valve seat inside the top of the
  13. Hi You could be looking for either speedometer for a right hand drive car. "Standard" models for the Canadian market would have been left hand drive with mph speedometers. The last provinces in Canada to change from driving on the left of the road to the right of the road switched in 1923. All used imperial measure and miles per hour until the change to metric in the 1970's. Several companies with assembly plants in Canada also were able to tap into "favoured nation" status for exporting to other countries in the British Commonweath, such as Australia and
  14. I had a similar problem on my '36 120 that took a year to find the actual and very simple problem. Symptoms: - Engine rebuilt with 20,000 miles on it. - Started fine - Idled fine - Ran fine on the level - Up hill, occasional to regular miss-fire and loss of power (it would nearly quit) - Timing and electrical circuts all passed tests standing still in the shop, but would sometimes hesitate when the accellerator was pumped and the engine reved up. Eventually the problem was linked to whenever the vacuum advance was in action, which happens when climbing hills and the engine vacuum drops.
  15. Great looking Buick. I hope you find a proper future caretaker for it. Some suggestions for the engine. If it ran within a year or two, there may be another reason other than the pistons for it not turning over. If the engine was not fully warmed up enough to fully oil the valve train, it could be as simple as a stuck valve. I have had this happen to two cars when sitting in storage. It has happened in as little as a couple months and the usual culprite is one of the exhaust valves. You can sometimes test for this by trying to rock the crankshaft with a wrench on the front pulley. The cranksh
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