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About Gary_Ash

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  1. Roy Martin is "The Temperature Gauge Guy", took over for the previous guy. He can fix the temperature gauge, probably the oil pressure gauge, too. Contact info: 172 Laurel Hill Drive S. Burlington, VT 05403 802-862-6374
  2. Harm, I'd advise caution in relying too heavily on the infrared thermometer. They are not really designed to measure the temperature of shiny metals, which have low emissivity. A thermocouple sensor for foundry use can be dipped in the molten metal to check temperature more accurately. Your comments in your post indicated you probably have a thermocouple probe and readout.
  3. Joe, they look great! Kind of makes me wish I had a vibratory polisher to run those parts through with some walnut shells before I sent them to you. Or, is that lipstick on the pig? Ed may still want to give them a good wash and scrubbing in hot water with some Oakite or other strong cleaner to get rid of the plaster residual from the investment casting process. The impeller is going in the cooling system, it doesn't have to be beautiful. Now we just have to see how they fit in the water pump.
  4. Angled surfaces on 3D prints may show stair steps for each of the .005" thick layers. The 3D print can be sanded before casting when it makes a difference. Investment casting in plaster molds is very good at replicating even the finest details in the pattern, though I don't think you can get to a mirror finish on a raw casting. A good chrome shop can polish a casting before plating and during the process to make it shine. While Joe will be machining some of the surfaces on the impeller, he won't be taking anything off the top edges of the vanes. When someone looks at the impe
  5. Mike Cleary and his son Jamie do race the blue #18 car with gusto at Laguna Seca, and other places. However, it's all non-contact racing. What you were seeing in the photo above is actually reflections of other objects in the shiny paint - I think, but I'll have to ask Mike. When I last saw the car in person a year ago, it was all straight. Mike also owns a Type 35 Bugatti like the two you see in the picture below. This is the way these cars should be seen (and heard), not in some dusty museum! In traffic at Laguna Seca. At a car show in 2019
  6. I wanted to see if the belly pan was going to fit well. First, I jacked up the back axle and slid 3" worth of wood under each wheel so that the pan could clear the back axle pumpkin. I was able to get the pan under the car and then blocked it up on some more wood. As I knew to be the case, I have to do a little trimming on the front edge to match the back of the engine and bell housing, but I think it's only a matter of taking out 1/4" to 1/2" along the right-to-left line. The middle of the pan looks to be a good fit back to the kick-up in the frame rails. I have the flanges made for that
  7. Gee, I thought this is my second career... As an indicator of market potential for professional metal bashers, hardly anyone is beating down Wray's door to get body panels made for old cars. What are people doing to get sheet metal made for old car restorations? He isn't interested in doing stuff on hot rods, chopping tops, or that kind of stuff. He seems content to teach classes and assist in student projects like mine, sell his line of English wheels and other sheet metal tools, and take on occasional art and architectural jobs. There are some cars that come into the shop, get
  8. Chrome plating is expensive enough that the location of the shop doesn't matter. These days, the shop doesn't want you to visit them anyway. The important thing is the right shop. You can put a lot of stuff in a medium or large USPS flat rate box and send it anywhere in the country for less than $25 and it will be there in a couple of days. Even a large radiator grille doesn't cost that much to ship. A bumper, meh! So, Librandi's in Harrisburg, PA, or D&S Plating in Holyoke, MA will do a good job at a fair price, especially for a pair of headlight bezels. There must be many more shop
  9. I just got the silicon bronze castings for the new water pump impeller. Ed wanted one and a spare, plus two for other Whites in museums. The "lost wax" investment casting using the 3D printed patterns in PLA plastic worked well. All the details got preserved, even sharp edges. One casting has a flaw in the base that might be mostly removed during machining, but the others are great. There is a little plaster coating here and there from the investment, but it washes off with hot water and stiff brush. Of course, in bronze, the finished impellers will weight three times what the original a
  10. With the louvers done, it was now time to weld on the rear piece of the belly pan. I had previously placed the two belly pan sections with the wire form inside them on the concrete floor of Wray' shop. I added a couple of sand-filled beater bags to hold the wire form tight against the aluminum. The front section had a nice, straight edge, so that was used to mark the back section for a cut where they overlapped. After cutting and grinding to the guide line, I re-checked that the two pieces would join to make a good seam. Of course, once we got the belly pan pieces and the wire form up on
  11. More work on the belly pan at Wray Schelin’s shop. Mike Cleary had told me how hot it was to drive his #18 Indy car in the Great Race a number of years ago, and how they had to cut holes in the belly pan to get air circulation. He eventually added two rows of louvers near the back, so that’s what I did yesterday. Wray recently built a big, dedicated louver press, had dies for 3” and 8” wide louvers. We load up the 3” die set, and I marked off two rows of louvers, 16 per row, 1” apart. Once we got the die lined up, it went pretty quickly and we got two straight lines of identical louvers punch
  12. Useless: an HF automatic center punch. It will hit 2 or 3 times, then it never punches again. I finally spent the money on a Starrett one. Bam, bam, bam! And, it stays sharp.
  13. Now's your chance, Ed - my engine doesn't run yet. Of course, if you don't have a waterpump operating, we'll both be sitting on the starting line.
  14. Some years ago, I took my 1929 Studebaker President front axle to a reputable (I thought) truck axle and spring shop. I needed the new bushings pressed in and reamed to size, the straight king pins installed, and the Welch plugs inserted top and bottom. When I went to pick up the axle, some yoyo had put in the Welch plugs, then used a cold chisel all around the periphery of the holes in the knuckle to upset the metal enough to hold the Welch plug in place. Of course, that wasn't going to seal it. All he had to do was tap on the center of the convex plug with a drift and hammer to flatten
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