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About Gary_Ash

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    SouthCoast, Massachusetts

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  1. Not a lot to report this week, though I put in quite a few hours. I got a couple of blank-off plates made for the breather (which interfered with the firewall) and for the original mechanical fuel pump. A replacement valve spring cover and breather tube are on the way. I'm going to use an electric fuel pump near the tank instead of the mechanical one which mounted on the side of the block. Jerry Kurtz supplied me with an original oil filter housing that he has modified to accept a modern screw-in oil filter (NAPA 1040). He didn't have a mounting bracket available so I cobbled one out of 14 gauge (0.075" thick) hot-rolled sheet metal. Original 1937 Studebaker President engine with oil filter. Modern NAPA filter for modified oil filter housing. My local steel supply shop, General Supply and Metals in New Bedford, MA, has almost anything you want in steel or aluminum sheet, rod, bar, tube, I-beams, etc. as well as tools, bits, drills, etc. They are not cheap, not fast, but they have the stuff I need. This may be the last place on earth that records orders long hand on a scrap of paper, sends it up a miniature dumb waiter to an upstairs office (they took out the pneumatic tubes a few years ago) for pricing, and then sends customers out to the cutting floor with the paper scrap to order the pieces. Only once the bill is paid will the shop guy cut the metal and bring the pieces to the front. It looks like the 1930s (or 1830s) in the warehouse and cutting rooms, was frosty on the cold day I went there. But, I got exactly what I needed, everyone was friendly and helpful, it was just older than antediluvian. Once I got the metal in hand, I had to saw out the pieces with a hand-held jig saw, hand-file to form the details, and roll the straps to the required radius on my 24" 3-in-1 sheet metal machine. Some of the bends for the main bracket got bent in the machine, the rest I hand-hammered in a vise. In the end, I wound up with a pretty good replica of an original oil filter mount. Now, I just need to paint it and install the filter and oil lines. One of the consequences of having spent so much time with Wray Schelin at Pro Shaper building the aluminum body is that I now focus deeply on details of metal forming. It takes a little longer, but is very satisfying when the task is done. Replica oil filter mount. Filter housing in brackets. Rear of oil filter in new bracket.
  2. Try MWS Wire Wheel in Slough, England, near Heathrow Airport. See . Talk to Gary Gardner, the owner. He has wheel centers and rims, can drill the rims and centers, dimple them, and lace them up as you wish, can paint, powder coat, or plate as needed. You need to be able to tell him the number of spokes, lacing pattern, and the wheel offset (puts the center of tire footprint near where the kingpin line intersects the road) . The wheel centers are actually made by Wheels India, who bought the tooling, drawings, and licenses for the Dunlop/Rudge wheels many years ago, I don't know where the rims come from now but maybe also from Wheels India. I bought a set of four 72 mm wheels with 18" drop-center rims, 72 spokes, triple laced, from him. I went to the shop in England, took the tour, spoke to the people. This is a first-class operation, quality products. The other British vendors are Orson Equipment and Richards Brothers. I think, however, that the 100 mm and 120 mm Rudge sizes were only used on American cars. Wheels with 100 mm centers are for big cars. What are you working on? What rims do you need? 18" rim on Rudge 72 mm wheel center from MWS Wire Wheel. Diagram of wheel centerline and kingpin axis at road surface to determine scrub radius - smallest scrub radius is best. Dan, Gary Gardner, and me at MWS, Slough, England
  3. Rex came through with the cover, tube, and screw. Bob Kapteyn says he has the yoke. Now I just need the clutch release shaft.
  4. I thought I had pasted some text in the previous post, but it disappeared. Here is the list of parts I am looking for: 177339 Yoke, clutch release, used on 1934-37 Presidents and 1934-35 Commander 8’s. 189255 Shaft, clutch release [Note: 1934-46 parts book has this wrong, doesn’t show part for LHC cars; 1929-40 book shows it correct.] 191231 Cover, valve spring (rear) used on 1938-42 Presidents (4C-8C) 191227 Tube, engine breather used on 1938-42 Presidents 191233 Screw, to valve cover 3/8-16 x 5-7/8 used n 1938-42 Presidents (4C-8C) The Cover, Tube, and Screw are circled in the diagram above. The parts catalogs don't have good drawings of the yoke and shaft, but the shaft is mostly a straight, round shaft with a couple of keyways in it, the yoke has two fingers, slides onto the shaft. I guess I should call the factory and have them correct the error in the parts catalog...
  5. Machining the back side is an option, but not a full 1/8". The tubes were pushed into the holes in the flange leaving a little less than 1/8" for a lap weld. I've read a little more on "flame straightening": A little of that and a little of Flyer15015's technique and we might get it done. I love playing with fire! I looked back on how I assembled the header, see that I had only bolted down the flange at the ends, not in the middle. And, the flange was bolted to a 2x4, probably not stiff enough to resist the steel bending, anyway. Once the pieces were tack welded, it came off the 2x4 so I could lap weld the tubes to the flange in back. This is how we learn (too late).
  6. I looked back at some of my postings, found that I had started to exchange information and comments with Graham going back six years. I bought some parts from him back in December, had exchanged messages just before Christmas. I knew he was ill, but didn't know the extent of it. I'll miss having him as part of this group. Let's raise a toast to Graham!
  7. When I welded up the carbon steel tube header for my 1937 Studebaker straight 8 to be used in my Indy car replica, I didn't have sufficient clamping of the 3/8" steel plate that the tubes got welded to. As a consequence, the mounting plate has a slight curve to it, resulting in a gap of about 1/8" at the center of the manifold between the plate and the block. The outer ends are touching the block. With nuts installed on the studs, I can pull the flange flat, probably enough to seal with a gasket. However, that leaves a lot of stress in the header. I'm thinking of shrinking the tubes at the ends to pull the flange flatter. I've got a spare engine block, can tighten the manifold flat, then heat a tube section of an inch or so until it's at least bright red with an acetylene torch. This should soften the steel and make the tube try to expand in length, but since it it restrained by the rest of the manifold, the tube should get pushed together. Once the tube cools, it should be shorter than before. If I do both outer tubes, the flange should be flatter. If I can get the gaps to be 0.030" or so, I can get the flange machine flat the rest of the way, or maybe that would be OK for just cinching up the nuts. Do I need to do this or will just starting the engine (eventually) and running it for a while do the stress relief I need? Any other suggestions?
  8. My wife and I made the 400-mile trip to the York, PA area to pick up the finished engine from Jerry Kurtz. It was great to see it done and painted. We used Jerry's engine hoist to pick it up and put it into my little utility trailer, then we lashed it down and blocked the wooden cradle in to keep it from moving. We were fortunate that we got two good-weather days for travel down and back, only had a few snow flurries on the way home though driving through the New York metro area at rush hour with a trailer was no fun. We had managed a stop at Dietrich's Meats in Krumsville, PA, off I-78, to stock up on smoked pork chops, scrapple, Lebanon bologna, and other tasty things my doctor would prefer that I don't eat. Today, I lifted the engine out of the trailer with my hoist and put it in the car with the help of my long-suffering wife. Fortunately, though I had completely disassembled the chassis for painting and reassembled it while the engine was being worked on, all 12 holes in the engine support plates lined up with the holes in the four chassis mounts. Not bad, considering there is no rubber and no adjustment. Once the transmission and driveshaft are in, I can focus on the clutch linkage and pedal and start assembling the linkage for the four Stromberg EX-23 carbs. I'm tired after two long days on the road and a day muscling the heavy engine around, might be time for a martini. Gary, the engine, and Jerry in PA. The chassis ready for the engine. Lowering the engine into the chassis. Engine installed. Engine compartment.
  9. I wonder if the drums are the same but the pattern and number of drilled holes is different. A little welding, a little drilling...
  10. I have a complete set of 15" drums, shoes, backing plates, small parts, etc. from a 1929 President. Very heavy stuff to ship to Australia from Boston, Mass. area, but can be done. Yours for $350 plus shipping. It may require special heat-treated plywood crating to go to Australia. Normal minimum charge for sea freight is for 1 cubic meter volume, haven't found a way to beat that. These are older photos, drums are removed from wood wheels and hubs.
  11. It depends on which 8 cylinder engine you have. Presidents with the 337 cu in engine used generator 927J from 1931-33. The armature, but not the generator itself, was shared with Pierce Arrows of the period. Dictators and Commanders with the smaller 8 used generator 955C from 1929 through 1934. The Chilton Interchange book says 1930-ish Marmons used the same armature - good luck with that!
  12. Just for comparison, here is what one of the original Indy car seating areas looks like. Seat belts are, of course, a modern addition.
  13. Another 3-day session at Pro Shaper with Wray Schelin got a lot more done on the body. Here are lots of photos. Wray is fanatical about getting the shape of the tail section just right, with curvature matched to large, radius-defining "sweeps". When I made the wire form for the tail, I didn't have detailed measurements from an original, just photos and a few overall dimensions, so I didn't get the form to the best shape. A lot of correction was needed. This requires a lot of hand hammering to stretch and shrink the metal. The process leaves the surfaces a little lumpy, so one would normally use the English wheel or a planishing hammer to smooth it out again without changing the shape. Because the tail is very long and not very open on the bottom, the tail won't fit on even Wray's biggest wheeling machine or planisher - so he built a new planishing device. Using the pneumatic head and anvil from a standard planisher, he made a big U-shaped frame from some scrap steel tube. As it turned out fairly heavy, he eventually brought over the gantry frame, a chain fall, bungee cord, and nylon sling to support it while he pushed it back and forth. Every once in a while, he'd spray blue Dykem all over the surface, run a body file very lightly over the surface to highlight the low spots, gently pound them out from the bottom, and planish some more. This is a tedious process, but Wray is a patient man. This work is way beyond my skill level. Wray with long planisher Planisher hung from gantry While Wray worked the tail, I kept going on the seating area. This is a very complex structure with the driver's seat a few inches forward of the passenger/riding mechanic. Copying the original cars, I riveted in the seat bottoms. I'm not sure why they did this at Pop Dreyer's shop in the 1930s, maybe because butt welds might have been prone to cracking in that area. To get the assembly right, the seat backs needed to be fitted more tightly to the wire form "buck", so I covered several areas with black Magic Marker, then heated the area with the acetylene torch until the ink burned off. The torch has to be kept moving because the aluminum will melt in short order if it gets too hot. Annealing the seat back Leather-covered wood corking tool, hammer, and Magic Marker At that point, the 0.062" thick aluminum is soft enough to stretch it easily with a wood "corking tool" and a big hammer without leaving dents. Where the metal had to go around a corner, I annealed the edge and hammered it over the 1/4" steel rods of the form, leaving just a narrow lip. Folks, you cannot do this kind of work on a wood buck! Forming the lips for weld joints With lots of trimming and grinding, the pieces were gradually fitted together with minimal gaps. The final seam to be welded, joining the two seats together and the upper seat back, ran a zig-zag path over the surfaces. Master-welder Wray then TIGed the joint together using an Everlast 210EXT AC/DC welder, a great machine . I'll need to spend a few hours grinding down the weld beads to make the seams disappear. Aligning the seam to be welded The seats riveted and welded together Oh, and I just got an email from Jerry that my engine is done and ready to be picked up. It's a good day!
  14. Interesting! I was recently looking for a side view mirror for my 1941 Studebaker Commander. I was told that Jay Fisher had made some reproductions, but the tooling and inventory have been sold to separate people. I was able to get a right side Fisher mirror from the inventory, but no left sides available. The guy with the patterns says there isn’t one for my car. However, I think Fisher used the Chrysler/Plymouth pattern for his Studebaker version, maybe just machining the base differently. I finally drew up one on my CAD program to resemble what was shown in the 1941 Studebaker accessories brochure, printed out patterns on my 3D printer, and had them plaster investment cast in silicon bronze. I made an adjustment to permit using modern, replaceable mirror heads that I could buy affordably. The arm tilts up at 20 degrees, like the Fisher ones, can be rotated for additional view angle adjustment. I’m about to send the finished castings to the chrome plater. If you are interested in one of these, I can probably put the 10-24 studs where the holes are in your fender before they get plated. The base is 6.5” long, 1/2” wide. Currently, the 1st stud is 1.5” from the front edge, the second stud 3-11/16” behind it. It won’t be 100 % like the Chrysler originals, but not too bad at $300. And, it’s NOT pot metal! Here is a photo of the Fisher mirror (right side mount) and my prototype (left side mount), a 3D printed prototype next to my car, and the four cast parts I have ready.