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  1. Here are a couple of photos for comparison. Note where shock links attach and location of forging number. 1932 President front axle. 1931 Dictator front axle.
  2. I went to see my buddy Andy at his machine shop about 10 minutes from my house. I asked if he was up for a challenge, but his answer was a sad "No." His assistant had given two weeks notice, left last Friday. Andy had spent two years training him to run all the machines in the shop after the previous guy left. Now his dilemma is that it's hard to find anyone with any experience, and training takes away time from Andy running other machines and making money. He has more work lined up than he can handle right now. But, he said, get the castings done and come back, maybe he could squeeze in some time in the fall. So, I'll ship the originals back to Ed and we'll see about getting the castings done when quantity is settled. Anyone know a machinist who wants a job in New Bedford, MA? I can probably get the inlet and exhaust valves done at emachineshop.com as the parts are pretty simple.
  3. After more than 31 hours of printing, the first of the investment casting patterns is done. Because of the fins and arms that stick out to the side, it's necessary to print a lot of supports that need to be removed after printing, a tedious job, but the supports increase the quality of the surfaces. I'll bring the pattern and the original to the machine shop today so that Andy can see the before and after versions. I don't think machining the castings will be a big job but making the parts for the valves will be a little time consuming. I made the cylinder bore and hole sizes a little smaller than finish machined dimensions. All the walls are about 0.020" thick with the space between the inside and outside walls filled with about 10% material for reinforcement. You can see the diamond pattern filler in the photos. This reduces the time to print and the amount of material used. The pattern weighs only 3 ounces, about $1 of PLA printing material, while the original part weighs about 2.5 lbs. I saw Ed making noises about four copies now. How many Whites without tire pumps are left in the world? Casting the compressor body in bronze would be easy as I have a foundry that we've worked with before - they cast Ed's water pump impeller that Joe Puleo machined. I have a couple of minor concerns about using bronze for the body. First, the machinability index is only 40 compared to brass, perhaps lower than cast iron or cast carbon steel, but it's really only the cylinder bore that matters. The thermal coefficient of expansion of bronze is nearly twice that of cast iron or steel, though in the case of this 1.5" bore compressor, the piston-cylinder gap would only increase about .001" per 100 °F increase in temperature, perhaps too small to worry about. The piston doesn't have rings, starts with about .001" clearance. Wear is the other issue. The bronze will be softer than cast iron or steel, so it may wear faster. It's easier to replace the piston in the future than the body, but how many hours will the compressor run anyhow? I don't know what the coefficient of friction is for greasy silicon bronze (C87300 alloy) against hardened steel, but maybe it's no worse than a cast iron-to-steel pair. Silicon-aluminum bronze alloys (C64200) make good bushings but the foundry doesn't use that one. In spite of my silly concerns, it would be easier, faster, and cheaper to just cast the compressor body in the same silicon bronze alloy used for making statues and outdoor plaques. The body gets painted black in any event. In another hundred years, someone else can worry about the consequences of wear. Ditto for the connecting rod. Here are photos of the first 3D printed casting pattern. Pattern and compressor, right side. Pattern and compressor, end view. Pattern and compressor, bottom view.
  4. I didn't realize how many parts there were to the compressor and how complicated it is. If Ed wants to make a few, it's going to be a significant project. I'll take the original compressor and some of my drawings to my local machine shop guy and see if he can take on machining the castings and making the various small parts. He can probably tell us if the original casting is cast iron or cast steel. He's made a lot of parts for me over the last 10 years, so I trust him. Then I'll send the compressor back to Ed. I think the modelling is 98% accurate, just a few minor details might be different from the original, but not functionally. Here are some images from CAD and camera, compare to Ed's photos above: Compressor body machined. Compressor actuator arm Compressor connecting rod - brass or bronze? Piston bottom view - hardened steel, 1.5" o.d. Holding spring for actuator arm, 0.040" spring steel Small parts for air inlet valve. Valve plate retaining screw, 4-40x3/8, and 1/16" cotter pin not shown. Inlet valve fitting with 3/4-20 extra fine thread Outlet valve fitting. It uses a spring to push a 3/8" steel ball into a seat, ball raises with increased pressure. Steel ball and spring for outlet valve Rendering of pump half assembled 3D printing the compressor body casting pattern in transparent PLA plastic, 11 hours into a 32 hour print job. Transparent PLA is used because it has the least amount of other added materials, vaporizes completely during investment casting.
  5. Post some photos and dimensions so we can see what you have. I assume you still have rod-operated brakes, as Studebaker didn't use hydraulics until 1935. Do you still have the old bearings? They should have some numbers on them. It's possible a previous owner changed the axle with its spindles, so look for casting/forging numbers on the axle and spindles. If worst comes to worst, you'll need to get the o.d. of the spindles on the inner and outer lands and the i.d. and depth of the pockets in the hub for the cups, then match up through a Timken bearing catalog.
  6. I think the hex-shaped design includes the artistic rendering of the letters AR. It wouldn’t surprise me that these are the pattern maker’s initials. So now just find a copy of the Hartford, CT city directory for 1915-1917 and identify a foundry worker or pattern maker with those initials working for Hartford Machine Screw Co. on Capitol Ave. Or, did they sub it out to another shop? The casting has parting lines that show the pattern was in four or more pieces. It wasn’t just two pieces to fit in a cope and a drag in the foundry as a half-pattern couldn’t be pulled from the sand due to the complex shape. I stared at the compressor body for hours trying to figure ways to split a pattern for sand casting gray iron, couldn’t solve it. Actually, the body may be cast steel. I can 3D print a 1-piece pattern for investment casting but will need to find a foundry willing to make just one via a “lost wax” process. I have a place for casting bronze that way, but not for gray iron or cast steel.
  7. Since you probably have to make a new drag link or modify the old one anyway, here's a suggestion: 1. Undo the big nut and remove the Pitman arm with a gear puller. The arm has a tapered spline to match the shaft. 2. Rotate the box and steering column 180 degrees. 3. Reinstall the Pitman arm with the ball pointing down when the steering wheel is centered, don't tighten the nut. 4. Rotate the housing clamp 180 degrees. Make a new seat for it. 5. Install the drag link to the rudder. 6. When everything is lined up OK and you have checked clearances, tighten the nut on the Pitman arm. Usually, a cotter pin goes through the outer end of the shaft. The ball on the end of the arm will be sitting some inches higher, but if there is room to connect the drag link, it should be OK. You might need to modify the drag link or make a new one with a Z in it to compensate for the height difference if clearance is tight. Be sure to fill the box with Grade 00 grease (Tractor Supply Co. $5.99 a quart) before you install it as the filler will now be on the lower side. Maybe run some 1/8" pipe around the box to provide a filler on the high side. Before you do this, it's probably a good idea to take off the rear cover, pull out the sector, and unscrew the steering column nut so that you can pull out the worm and replace the steel bearing balls, probably 5/16" diameter, about 24 balls. Do this every 80-90 years. If the cups are corroded, new ones for Jeep CJ's may fit. It is unlikely that you can find a new worm or sector. Ross steering box from 1929 Studebaker.
  8. If you want to read about the guys that drove that car, especially Benoist, read the book "Grand Prix Saboteurs" to learn what they did during WWII. https://www.amazon.com/Grand-Prix-Saboteurs-Joe-Saward/dp/0955486807
  9. I think Trimacar was referring to lack of a wire connecting the field of the alternator to anything else.
  10. Ed, we've been to the Azores twice, visited the islands of Sao Miguel, Faial, and Pico. My wife's family sent a son from Boston to the Azores in the 1770s to escape the oncoming Revolutionary war. He established an office of the family trading company that shipped goods between the Azores and Boston for 100+ years, but the family eventually moved back to the Boston area as trade diminished. My wife still has a few distant cousins on Sao Miguel and Faial. If you've been to Furnas, you might have visited the old family home with the hot springs. Yes, driving there is a real challenge!
  11. Time for paint! I took all the body panels off the car, a task of about 2 hours. Take out the upholstery (unsnap 30+ snaps), jack up the rear axle, drop the belly pan, undo the seat belts from under the car, take off the gas cap because it won't fit through the hole in the tail, remove the exhaust pipe, take off 16 acorn nuts on the cowl and tail, pull the cowl off, lift the tail off (two people), remove the hood panels (two bolts) and engine side panels (pull out four hinge pins). I managed to fit all but the belly pan in the Expedition for the trip to the paint shop, made a second trip for the belly pan. At least the Luzo Auto Center in New Bedford is less than 15 minutes from home. They previously painted the chassis. The total weight of the seven body pieces is about 105 lbs yielding about 125 square feet to be painted. The tail is the heaviest piece at 40 lbs, the belly pan 25 lbs, others 5-20 lbs. Victor's crew will sand all the surfaces to be painted with ~220 grit, apply Bondo to smooth some of the less-smooth spots, then put on etching primer for aluminum, some high-build primer, sand all smooth at each stage, and finally get to base/clear paint. He pointed out some wavy areas on the belly pan, but I assured him that only the squirrels that I ran over would get a glimpse of the bottom of the pan. Only the outsides of the panels and wired/rolled edges get paint, though some masking will be required to limit overspray on the back sides. He'll paint two of the easy parts for my approval of the color even though we made test panels, then shoot the rest of the pieces. He was going to power-wash everything this afternoon to get any grease off, then start the team on the rest of the process. It should be done in about two weeks. Victor was documenting the project for their records. I'll stop by to watch progress. It helps to speak a little Azorean Portuguese in New Bedford as up to 60% of the population speaks it as a first language at home as a result of the whaling days of the 1800s. Bom dia! Body panels at the paint shop. The body and paint shop in New Bedford. Great guys, great work, affordable.
  12. Thanks, George K, nothing like getting it straight from the original source.
  13. Here's a photo of my 1937 President block, Dictator/Commander block is similar but not identical. The supply line comes from a 1/8" NPTF port at the front of the block, left side. You may have to tap into the right side oil gallery as suggested in the post above. The return line goes down to the lower edge of the block just above the oil pan, should be a pipe plug there to remove for the fitting. Use 3/16" flare fittings, not compression fittings. Single flare should be OK. Just be sure there is a flow-limiting orifice 0.045"-0.062" i.d. somewhere on/in the filter housing. I used copper-nickel tube for lines.
  14. I had the same problem with new shoes not fitting in the drum. It's very difficult to find a shop that will grind shoes as the machines were made illegal due to the asbestos in old brake shoe material. Modern shoes don't have asbestos but the machines are still illegal. You'll have to ask discreetly at some old-time brake shops to find a place that will grind them on an AMMCO machine hidden in the back room. These days, even the sandpaper belts for the machines are expensive and hard to find. Here's a photo of 12" Buick shoes being ground.
  15. We’ll be in Indianapolis with the car Sept. 4-8 for the ASC part of the meet and my talk on Wednesday afternoon for SDC, but need to leave on the 9th to get back for the Glidden Tour in Saratoga, where we’ll drive the 1941 Commander. I know that Virgil Exner, Sr. drove his #22 Indy car from Detroit to Lime Rock, CT for the races in the late 1940’s with 15-year old Virgil Jr as passenger, but I’m trailering my car to Indy. Heck, there isn’t even a place to put registration papers in the car, let alone luggage. And, Ed, my wife doesn’t object to me tearing up the lawn as long as I don’t run over her flowers or berry bushes. She will give me the eye roll, though.
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