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About Gary_Ash

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    SouthCoast, Massachusetts

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  1. Gary_Ash

    1926 Big Six Clock Pic Wanted

    George: Is this the one?
  2. I've been working on restoring the instruments for my 1932 Studebaker Indy car replica. I tried using some fine polishing compound very gently on the radimeter face but ground through the black paint without turning the numbers white. I've drawn up new artwork for the speedometer face and radimeter and printed out some decals. Anyone else need these? Unfortunately, the capillary tube for the radimeter was broken off right at the gauge so it will be a bit difficult to fix. I don't have the bulb, nut, or the well. I'm using a 1937 President block and head.
  3. Gary_Ash

    Mounting an ingition coil -- orientation?

    Some, though not all, of the old coils were designed to run horizontally or inverted. New coils, not so much. If the windings are not fully immersed in oil, they may arc and destroy the coil. Old NOS coils are also in danger of insulation failure, even if they were designed to run horizontally or inverted. With a new coil, it's probably better to run it with the high voltage output facing up. Will it work in a different orientation? The only way to find out is try it and see. Carry a spare coil in case it doesn't work out. I went through a couple of expensive NOS inverted coils in my 1948 Studebaker truck before giving up and mounting a new coil right side up. It's been fine now for a number of years.
  4. Gary_Ash

    christmas cards

    Here are a few we have done over the years. 2007 with the 1948 Studebaker M5 truck: 2009 with the 1965 Studebaker Wagonaire: 2011 with the chassis and parts of the 1932 Studebaker Indy car replica: 2018 with the M5 again at a local farm stand: Seasons greetings to all!
  5. Gary_Ash

    1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    I got the drilled Grade 8 bolts back from the machine shop for the spring eyes. The bolts will be inserted into the bronze bushings in the spring eyes and the chassis mounts. Each bolt was cross drilled with a 1/8th inch drill about halfway down the unthreaded length, then drilled down the center of the bolt with a 1/8th inch drill to intersect the crosshole, and the bolt heads tapped for a 1/4-28 grease fitting. The machine shop spent about 3 hours drilling the ten hard bolts. I'll be able to grease the spiral grooves in the bronze bushings (from Eaton Detroit Spring) and distribute the grease along the bearing surfaces. The bolts are way oversize at 3/4" diameter, so I'm not worried about compromising the strength of the bolts by drilling them. My plan had been to use aircraft-grade NAS bolts with even higher strength, but it wasn't easy to locate bolts with the right unthreaded length; and, at $50 or so per NAS bolt, the standard Grade 8 cap screws were a bargain at 10% of the NAS price. I did learn about the differences between loading bolts in tension (clamping) and loading them in shear, as in spring mounts. The key is to avoid having an extended threaded portion (more than 2 threads of 3/4-16) in the hole so that the threads don't chew up the metal. The hex cap screws have tightly controlled diameters on the unthreaded length, better than regular hex bolts, so there won't be slop in the bushings. I'll use nylon-insert locknuts, though the exposed threaded length could be cross drilled for a castle nut and cotter pin. Each bolt will have a hardened washer under the head and under the nut. To allow clamping with less than 2 threads in the bushing or mount or too many exposed threads for the nut to clamp, washers will be selected from the NAS-style ones in .032" or 0.090" thickness or SAE-style ones of .134" or .188" thickness. Ideally, no more than two washers should be stacked on outer end. In principle, Grade 8 hex cap screws are available in 1/4" increments, but odd lengths are tough to find in bolts over 4" long. Ziegler Bolt and Nut has a good selection at fair prices. All in all, Grade 5 bolts would have worked just fine for this, and original bolts would not have been even Grade 5 and they would have been smaller in diameter. But, anything worth doing is worth overdoing!
  6. Gary_Ash

    1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    I made another foray to Pro Shaper for more work on the tail section and some bits for the cockpit. Wray finished up some of the welding on the right side of the tail, then ground the welds down, leveled the surfaces with dolly and metal slapper. While I'm getting better at using the English wheel, Wray is the artist who can see every ripple, hollow, or bulge and make them disappear with just a little more wheeling. He makes the finished surfaces mirror-like - much of the secret is keeping the aluminum and wheel clean and polished with 600 grit or better. I got the last four pieces for the very back of the tail shaped and fitted pretty well. Maybe next visit will see them welded to the rest of the tail. Along the way, Wray showed me where the "flow" of the wire form buck was poor in the back third, so I and a another attendee cut , re-bent, and moved several of the 1/4" diameter steel wires to obtain a smoother surface without hollows. This will make joining the pieces together into a smooth surface easier. I also made some L-shaped pieces for the bottom edge of the cockpit skin. These will get riveted to the lower edge of the cockpit skin, and a few studs with acorn nuts will hold the cockpit to the angle iron cockpit frame and the chassis side rails. I had started a pair of these ells on a previous trip to Wray's and had planned to fold over the outer edge to make a 1/8" high lip to cover the angle iron. Wray pointed out that it wasn't possible to bend a lip that shallow on the .062" thick aluminum and that I had to remake the pieces (sigh!) with the horizontal leg at least a 1/2" overlength. The L pieces are a little more complicated, as there is a 10 degree bend near the back ends to follow the frame rails. I tried using the tipping wheel machine (like a bead roller) on a test piece, but wasn't satisfied with the result, so I used a pneumatically-powered press brake to make a sharp bend after using the tipping wheel to start the bend at the angle. This illustrates why I am working at Wray's: he has all of the sheet metal tools anyone could dream of plus lathes, milling machines, big band saws, 500 assorted vise grip clamps, etc. Of course, this puckered the material at the angle, so it had to be annealed and hand bent and shrunk to get the shape right. Then I sawed off most of the excess material in a bandsaw and ground to final size with one of Wray's favorite Harbor Freight angle die grinders and 80 grit abrasive paper. Then I hand sanded with progressively finer grit to smooth out the worked surfaces. Two simple pieces: 4 hours elapsed time. Now I have to trim the bottom edge of the cockpit metal and rivet the pieces in place like the original cars. It's taking a long time to make the body, but it will be excellent when done. I get frustrated that it takes me a long time to make what Wray can do in a few minutes, but I am getting better and we are making progress. I'll go back again after Thanksgiving. For anyone interested in learning how to form aluminum or steel sheet metal for car bodies, airplanes, architecture projects, or art work, I highly recommend Wray's classes - just be prepared to work your butt off every day!
  7. Gary_Ash

    17" aluminum steering wheel for what?

    Probably a product of American Hard Rubber Co., Butler, NJ. See this blog for some interesting info:
  8. Gary_Ash

    Want to buy

    I wondered if one of those covers could be 3D printed. It is difficult to make truly transparent objects that way, but offers parts in VeroClear resin which is pretty close to transparent, slight blue tint maybe in thin parts, say 0.040"-.060" thick. The finished part has properties about like Plexiglas. I didn't know what the actual size of the cover is but I assumed about 6.6" across. Just for fun, I laid out the part in my TurboCad Platinum program, added a rim about 0.3" wide, made the thickness 0.06", then did "pressure loading" to deform the central area by about .25". It's easy to change the "pressure" to obtain a bulge of the needed height. I uploaded the file to Sulpteo and they gave me a price of $128 and a shipping time of about 2 weeks. The price didn't change when I made the thickness 0.040", so it must be based on area and other things for a part like this. I think a 3D printed part would still need a lot of hand polishing, perhaps working your way up to about 2000 grit. See this page about VeroClear: Stratasys VeroClear. The computer-generated images attached show about what it would look like. I made the model in "blue glass" so it could be seen. If nothing else, a 3D printed part could serve as a master for making a silicone mold for casting multiple parts. Interesting, eh? You would still be better off finding an original glass.
  9. Gary_Ash

    Ring Gear RIvets

    Rivets are used in a lot of places where bolts will loosen over time. Bolted joints subjected to alternating shear loads, as in starts, shifts, and stops on a ring gear, will turn the bolt heads or nuts and loosen the grip. We never see bolts get tighter over time, only looser. Additionally, if the old rivets were drilled out, the holes may be oversized and not round. When a rivet head is peened over, the shank of the rivet grows in diameter to completely fill the hole, something a bolt can never do. The two pieces can never shift if the rivet is put in correctly. Car manufacturers used rivets for good reasons. These guys know all about rivets for cars: If you must use bolts, omit lock washers, use red Loctite on the threads, and torque to full recommended value. The socket head cap screws recommended bu Friartuck are good. Pick an unthreaded body length that allows no more than 1-2 threads inside the holes in the rear gear or plate, cut off the excess threads leaving 1 or 2 threads exposed. If part of the unthreaded body goes all the way through, use a hardened washer under the nut, but only one washer.
  10. Gary_Ash

    Want to buy

    I hope you can find one, because making one would be complicated and probably expensive. It takes a mold, ceramic or iron, of the shape you need. I flat piece of glass is placed on top, the mold and glass heated in a kiln to about 1200-1250 degrees F for about 10 minutes, then a slow cool to anneal the glass. Maybe you could find a local glass artist to do this for you. On the other hand, if you can live with a plastic lens, you could cut out the opening shape in two pieces of plywood, clamp a piece of acrylic (Plexiglas) between the sheets and use a hot air gun to slowly heat the plastic until it slumps enough or do it in a kitchen oven or toaster oven. Good luck!
  11. Gary_Ash

    1935 Commander starter motor

    Chris: I sent an email about a distributor.
  12. Gary_Ash

    1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    By Monday night, the group was pretty exhausted, and the pace slowed after dinner. We did get the front 2/3 of the tail section welded together, though the welds still need to be sanded down and dollied to level everything out. To me, it's amazing that a few light taps with a hammer on the outside and a dolly on the inside can bring up weld metal to the surface where a slight recess existed. After a little sanding, the weld is invisible to the eye and the probing finger. Wray has been using his Everlast 210EXT TIG welder a lot more rather than his ancient Miller unit, fine tuning the settings to allow fusion joints without adding filler rod metal when the two edges are in direct contact or only have a small gap, i.e. less than .005"-.010". He starts in the middle of the section to be welded, working his way out to either end of the joint. Because of shrinkage of the metal at the weld spots, small gaps get closed up as he goes. He tacks the front first, fully welds the back side, then goes back and fully welds the front. I keep practicing my TIG techniques, but I'm letting Wray weld for now because I don't want to burn holes in the panels. The four pieces for the end of the tail cone are 90% done [see earlier post #183], need to be welded together, and joined to the front section. Hopefully, that will happen on my next visit. Other sections that need to be built include the 6" deep belly pan from the bell housing back, the "wings" that support the tail on the frame rails, and the seat area. P.S. Note in the bottom photo the Harbor Freight English wheels on the left in the background. You can see how Wray modifies them to turn the C-frame upside down so that the position of the large wheel is adjusted from the top. This gets the adjuster stem out from under the working area so that larger, curved pieces can be worked easily. He also dispenses with the tilting mount for the lower wheel. He sells a kit for this conversion, though the kit costs more than the HF wheel.
  13. Gary_Ash

    1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    A four-day session with Wray Schelin is a real work-out: start at 9:00 am, work until 10:00 pm - but we learn a lot. I’ve been trying to get the tail section together. It takes a lot of pounding, shrinking, stretching, planishing, and wheeling to things to fit together and have the right shape. There are nine of us here this time, including a guy from New Zealand, two from Canada, others from AZ, NM, NC. The NZ guy is only 27, pretty skilled. There are two more in their 30’s, so we are bringing along some youngster. Wray was teaching how to make paper patterns, form curves over a piece of pipe, using a shrinking disk, hammer-and-dolly work, and other tasks. Good fun, Some of the students have been working on the build of the Virgil Exner design of a future car from 1947. It’s a complicated body, but it’s coming along.
  14. I have a source for new distributor caps (182349) and covers (182350) for wires exiting the side of the cap. These are for Delco 662M distributors and related versions. Does anyone else want one or more? I'm about to order, so please let me know ASAP.
  15. Gary_Ash

    Car phones in 1946

    See what the young lady is (barely) holding in the current posting from the AACA library: