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About Gary_Ash

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  1. I addressed the grease problem of my shackle bolts by drilling a 1/8" hole down the center of the shaft about half way down and cross drilling, then put a grease fitting in the head. Of course, my bronze bushings also have wide spiral grooves to distribute the grease. Eaton Detroit Spring can supply bushings with grooves. Grade 8 bolt center drilled, cross drilled, and screwed-in grease fitting. Bronze bushings in spring eyes with spiral grooves.
  2. I started wiring the plugs for the headlights, realized I needed to connect the battery to test things out. I had never powered anything up before. Hoping that I didn't have any major short circuits, I connected the battery and tapped the horn button. Nothing! I started tracing wires, realized I had never connected the horn button to ground on one of the terminals. Once correctly wired, we had music - or at least a blast of the horn. Here's a video taken by my wife: https://youtu.be/T3xJ7Z1mvhM With that, I checked out the headlight assembly, tapped the starter bu
  3. There is still some electrical work to do. I ordered a pair of teardrop-shaped 7" headlights from Summit Racing. Of course, the original cars didn't have headlights, but I'd like to drive on the highway at night sometime. The housings are polished stainless, look pretty good. I got them with small running lights/turn signals on top; they even came with stainless flexible conduit for the wires. There is a tilt/rotation adjustable 1/2" stud on the bottom for mounting. Then I had to figure out where and how to mount them. I hate just drilling more holes in the chassis, so I found a place i
  4. As you might have noticed in the video, they were moving the laser pretty fast along the part - to avoid melting it, though it would still take some minutes sitting in the same spot. The hand-held 1000 W laser seemed extremely dangerous to me as some inattention might burn your buddy pretty badly as he looked on. Even a reflection off some flat piece of metal could bounce back and burn the operator or blind him. This is the kind of thing that needs to operate in an interlocked enclosure with laser-absorbing windows. Laser rust removal sounds like great stuff, but a little Naval Jelly will
  5. There are some older cars where a bumper jack is necessary to raise the body above the rear axle to get the wheels off. Ask me how I know...
  6. Jon, thanks for your insights. Any suggestions how to tune four carbs and select jets in applications like these? Is a Uni-Syn the right tool?
  7. RansomEli: Some years ago, I bought the HF 7x10 lathe thinking it would do many small jobs for me. It turns out that a 10" bed isn't long enough to have a chunk of metal in the lathe chuck and put a 1/2" drill in the tailstock chuck. Additionally, the nominal 7" swing was limited by what could be grabbed in the 3" chuck. So, I ordered a 16" cast iron bed and leadscrew plus a 5" 3-jaw chuck from The Little Machine Shop web site. I transferred the drive motor, tail stock, and cross slide to the new bed. The changes make the lathe useable. It's still not an industrial grade lathe, but I ca
  8. Pacho: I am using four Stromberg EX-23 carbs, probably about 200 cfm rating each. I believe these are 1-5/32" bore. They were used on 1937 Studebaker Dictator engines and similar models 1935 & 1936. Four of them make a lot of carburetion for my 250 cu in engine. I haven't started the engine yet, but will soon. I will have to adjust jet size to get proper gas/air mixture. I would love to post a video of the engine running, but patience is required. I think the 1939 Pontiac straight engine has almost the same displacement as my Studebaker engine. I expect to get 190-200 hp with 8:1
  9. A couple of weeks ago, I was looking things over in the cockpit and, to my great surprise, I noticed the needle from the water temperature gauge was missing - just gone! I went back and looked at some old photos: the needle was there when I rebuilt the gauge, it was there when I assembled the dash, it was there when I first put the dash in the car. I removed the gauge from the instrument panel, looked inside the enclosure, disassembled the entire back of the dash panel, but no needle appeared. It could be that in trailering the car back and forth to the metal working shop for the body that
  10. With the throttle linkage in place, I realized I had to hook up the choke levers on the four carbs. I studied the photos of the original Studebaker Indy cars and came up with a plan. I drilled another 3/8 hole in the dash and installed a push-pull wire. That piece of 1/16th inch thick engine-turned stainless steel proved to be amazingly hard to drill through, even with a cobalt bit. I turned some pieces from a 1/2" brass rod to create a 0.161" diameter shaft to mate with the choke levers and left a 1/4" long piece of the rod to be drilled for the 1/16" wire and a 6-32 set scre
  11. I put in the third quart, level was just below the hole, so I stopped there. I really hate the stink of gear oil, hard to wash the smell off my hands.
  12. No one can respond directly to an open-ended question. Exactly what is it that you are looking for? State car model, year, rim size and type, hub size, etc. I have no Rudge wheels or parts available, but can direct you to suppliers of new parts and wheels. Generally, new wheels are cheaper than rebuilding old wheels.
  13. I started filling the rear axle from a 1928 GB-W in my Indy car with 80-90 weight GL-5 gear oil. I thought a couple of pints should do it, but I've put two quarts in and it's nowhere near full. Anyone know what the capacity is supposed to be? I think the service manual says "fill it until it runs out the hole." That's always been what I've done in the past with other cars. Should I buy two more quarts or more than that?
  14. I had to do a little rearranging of the gas line to incorporate the manual shutoff valve, but a little cutting of the 5/16" copper-nickel-iron tubing, some flares and I was good to go. That left the brake lines as a major plumbing job. I had ordered specially-made 20" long flex lines for the front brakes, had to fabricate some mounts from 1/8" plate for the free ends. Fortunately, I found some bolts already through the chassis that could be used to hold them. I modified a mount for a Tee fitting, bolted it to the chassis side rails, and started fabricating tubes from 3/16" o.d copper-nick
  15. Here's why I thought the background was Istanbul: a photo of the Hagia Sophia.
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