Gary_Ash

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About Gary_Ash

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    http://www.studegarage.com

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    SouthCoast, Massachusetts

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  1. Gary_Ash

    Top material on a mid 20's closed car

    Call Haartz Corporation and tell them what you want. They can probably supply it. http://www.haartz.com/introduction-restorers-guide
  2. Gary_Ash

    Engine Crank Handle

    While the 1932-33 Rockne 6-cylinder engine later evolved into the one used in Dictators and Commanders - and trucks through 1960 - the parts book doesn't show many 1933 parts common to the later ones. The starting crank part number is 510591, fits 1932 and 1933 only. Maybe the Museum has the drawing. The last year a crank was supplied was 1934.
  3. Gary_Ash

    Looking for Work Shop/Out Building advice

    Before you pour the concrete floor, put 2" of high density rigid foam insulation under it, along with the vapor barrier. It will make it easier to heat in the winter. Saw joints in the floor while the concrete is still green to control where the cracks will be - and there will be cracks. If you want a shop area, think about how to wall off a portion of the building so you don't have to heat the whole thing. Take a look at the Modine "Hot Dawg" gas heaters that take in combustion air from the outside, has a totally enclosed burner, and vent the exhaust out, too. That prevents dumping a lot of water vapor into the garage and is safer if you are using flammable solvents.
  4. I got the decal for the numbers and markings applied to the 3D printed part, then coated it with some clear UV protectant. I think I got the scaling and placement correct. Now I'll go order a batch of parts.
  5. Gary_Ash

    1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    I got a call from Lee Chamberlin at The Brassworks where they are building my radiator. It's basically done, but Lee wanted to know about overflow tank, filler, fan, and other details. He sent photos - it looks pretty good to me. I sent them my Foamcore mock-up and they built it from that. I think I need a remote overflow tank. They will add a threaded bung in the top tank for a temp sensor for the "puller" electric fan. The original cars didn't have any fan, not good for slow drives or traffic. I may also put in some very short fan blades, but there isn't height for a full fan. They will finish the detail work, paint it flat back, and send it here. Can't wait to get it!
  6. Just write a check for $500,000 or more and send it to me. You'll wind up with the same pain at the end, but it will be over a lot quicker and with much less work. 😁
  7. Gary_Ash

    Dimensions for Rudge-Whitworth splined hubs?

    I did a little Googling, see that the RAF hubs have squarish splines. I don't have any info on dimensions of RAF hubs. See this site in Australia for perhaps what you are looking for: http://speedex.com.au/index.php?route=product/category&path=141 They do seem to make a lot of strange and wonderful stuff. and this one in the UK: http://www.gentryrestorations.co.uk/bugatti-wheels-hubs They at least list a locking wheel nut for RAF hubs. You can also give a call to MWS Wire Wheels in Slough, near Heathrow Airport. They made my 18" x4" wire wheels with 72 mm centers. They might be able to help with RAF-style wheel parts or at least send you to someone who can help. I had the Rudge-Style splined hubs and spinners/locknuts machined in China from drawings I made. MWS has lots of Rudge-style splined hubs and spinners for sale at very reasonable prices to fit most British cars and others, as well as lots of wire wheels. See http://www.mwsint.com Here's the hub and locknut from Speedex:
  8. Jim Hussey loaned me two old speedometers so I could check the fit of the new faces. I haven't applied the decal with the numbers yet, but here is a prototype part installed on an old speedometer. All of the holes lined up exactly and the part slipped nicely into the U-shaped frame behind the face. I did find that I have to make the stop pins for the needle just a little taller, but I've already modified the 3D printing file. The stop pins are printed as part of the face so that I don't have to make little brass pins and press them in. When the speedometer is installed in the dash, the pins don't show. As soon as the next test part gets here next week, I'll be ready to make a batch. Here is a speedometer with an old face and the new one. P.S. I looked at some files I have for decals and found that the ones I made for another project are correct for the odometer wheels on the 1937 speedometer. So, I have those, too, if you need them. See this for how it's done on M5 truck odometers: http://www.studegarage.com/instruments.htm
  9. I'm still working our a few details with the 3D printing company to be sure the faces come out properly flat, but the prototype I just got looks pretty good. I'll post an update when the next test part comes in. As soon as good parts are here, I can send PayPal invoices which you can pay through your own PayPal account or use a credit card to PayPal. Don, can you post a photo of your good speedometer?
  10. Gary_Ash

    Thoughts on Thermostat for '29 Graham?

    It is also possible that the thermostat was just above the water outlet and , as you say, almost part of the hose. Tractor Supply carries this kind of thermostat for older Ford 8N/9N tractors. See https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-thermostat-b2nn8575a. Dole originally supplied these; most were 160°F, very hard to find NOS ones now. You can get a modern equivalent from Meziere and put a modern Chevy-type thermostat in the housing with a temperature set point up to about 195°F. See https://www.meziere.com/Products/Cooling-System-Accessories/Inline-Stat-Housings.aspx. The housings are machined aluminum, well made and shiny, but a little black paint would help to hide it. There are short Gates rubber adaptors to accommodate mating with odd radiator hose sizes - I got some from O'Reilly's.
  11. I sent my 1932 President temperature gauge off to be restored. It's for my Indy car replica. I had already created new artwork and a decal for the face, applied the decal and overcoated it with clear Krylon. The gauge was missing the entire capillary tube and the bulb, and the adapter well for the head was badly corroded. It came back with a new bulb and nut, armored capillary tube, and a new brass well nut. Nice job! The work was done by "The Temperature Gauge Guy", Roy Martin. Turn-around time was about three weeks. He is in South Burlington, VT. His phone is: ate oh too - ate sicks too - sicks tree seben fore. Basic assembly, refill, and calibration is $85, other parts extra but fairly priced. Roy says he has lots of gauges for sale, though not another 1932 President gauge. He also has a 1925 Studebaker Duplex Phaeton EQ car that he will be selling soon.
  12. My grandfather James Ash had a ca. 1912 Mitchell when my father was a young boy. Here's a picture of James, my grandmother Addie, and I think it's my father Ellis in the back seat, probably about 1920-22. My grandmother never drove a car. My grandfather drove a Rickenbacker at some point; it even had small flower vases in the back seat according to my grandmother. Much later, they had a 1937 Plymouth that they sold to my father in 1947 so that we could move from Seattle to Baltimore. I have some memories of riding in the back seat of the '37 Plymouth on that trip, squeezed in there with my older sister and younger brother. There was a little fan on top of the dash as a defroster. Some days, my 18-month old brother rode in one of those kiddie seats that hung over the top of the front seat, so I got a little more room. Eventually, the '37 got traded on a 1950 Plymouth.
  13. I've been working with a couple of guys to make a replacement for the speedometer faces for 1937 Dictator cars and CE trucks. I think these also fit 1937-39 Fast Transport trucks. Working with photos of old speedometers and a drawing from the Studebaker National Museum, I was able to make a 3D CAD file for the part and another drawing for the markings and numbers. I have ordered a prototype part 3D printed in white nylon (translucent) and have some decals for the markings made. I had previously made a preliminary part as a test of stiffness, transparency (for backlighting), and surface quality - see image below. I think I can have these final parts ready for ordering in January, delivery a few weeks later. The price will be $75 each to cover the development and production costs. These should be drop-in replacements, though you will have to pull off the needle and put it back on plus remove and replace two small screws. I have also posted this info on the SDC Forum. The image below is a CAD rendering of what the parts will look like (mostly). The numbers and markings will blend in better than the computer image shows. Let me know if you have an interest in ordering one or more of these parts. EDIT: I was just told that it won't be necessary to remove the needle, just the two small screws holding the face to the rest of the assembly. Duh, I should have noted that, makes the job easier. Incidentally, the needle is made from Duralumin, according the Studebaker drawing. Invented in 1903 in Germany, duralumin is an aluminum alloy containing copper, magnesium, and manganese, current designations are 2014 and 2024. You may want to gently polish a badly oxidized needle using polishes for aircraft.
  14. Gary_Ash

    1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    I spent another weekend at Wray Schelin's Pro Shaper shop working on the pieces that will make up the tail of the car. While the pieces had been roughly to shape on earlier visits, it was time to adjust their shape to best match the wire-form buck and to smooth the surfaces. Also, the edges of the pieces had to have the right curvature to eventually trim them and weld them together. We used a 0.010" thick feeler gauge to locate where the aluminum was in tight contact with the wires, and also noted where large gaps existed that would require shrinking the metal at the edges. A couple of "ruffles" about 3" long from the edge toward the center and about 1" high were created using Wray's ruffling machine, then hammered down in a stump to do the shrinks. Where stretching was needed, a large Delrin-tipped mallet and shot bag were used to bump out a lot of dimples in a pattern to produce a wide area movement, not just a big bump. A few minutes in an English wheel removed the lumps and bumps, reshaped the piece, and polished the surfaces. This process was repeated several times to get the fit just right. In the end, more wheeling was used to bring the entire surface to a highly polished, mirror-like state, removing all traces of the work damage. No annealing was required. Once the pieces for one side were done, I made "flexible shape patterns", one of Wray's inventions, to match the right and left side pieces over their entire surfaces. I applied a layer of butted strips of low-tack paper tape over the surface of the first piece, then laid on a slightly overlapping strips of fiber-reinforced packing tape at an angle to the first layer. This two-layer creation was carefully peeled off the aluminum, then coated with plaster powder to make the pattern not sticky. To mark the location of the lines of curvature, a series of small holes was punched through the tapes. Then, the pattern was turned over, laid against the roughly-shaped second piece for the other side, and the curve lines marked with a felt pen. Where the second piece deviated from the first, there was lots of room under the pattern. We then went to the mallet, shot bag, and ruffler to bring the second piece into conformation with the pattern. The flexible shape pattern makes it much faster to form the parts since I didn't have keep walking over to the wire form, clamping the parts, and marking the locations for more work. Eventually, though, the pieces have to fit together on the wire form. We'll trim and weld next time. Here are photos of the process and the result. I included a shot of the spacemen who came to watch Wray weld some parts.
  15. Gary_Ash

    Water Slide Decals

    Wikipedia says decals were invented by Simon Ravenet, a Frenchman who died in England in 1764. It appears there were water-slide decals long before cars were developed. I don't think you can get in trouble for making a decal to place on parts of your own car, especially if the company went out of business many years ago. Trouble begins when you start selling decals to others. It seems that trademarks lose protection if the originator stops using them and/or doesn't formally protest to someone else using the design. The "protest" does not have to be an immediate law suit, only a letter to the infringer. But, I'm not a lawyer. Of course, in this litigious age, some organizations would be extremely unhappy if you duplicated their copyrighted logos, registered trademarks, etc., especially sports teams and fashion designers, but also Ford and GM.