Gary_Ash

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About Gary_Ash

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  1. I got the remote radiator fill tube from The Brass Works, the guys that made the radiator. I plumbed that in with the 1.75" hose pieces. Then I mounted the stainless steel overflow tank - not original, but now required for many vintage racing events to prevent coolant spills. At this point, all the water cooling loop is hooked up except for some small tubes to the overflow tank. A dummy cap will be mounted on the top of the radiator shell. I started defining the electrical system, realized I needed to know the max. amps that the electric fan will draw. The fan is a curved-blade SPAL fan, 13" dia. It turns out that it draws about 19 amps. That may be a problem as my generator was only rated for 26 amps before I had it rewound for 12 volts, though I don't think that increased its current output rating. After a lot of thought, I decided I will try the fan as is, but have the option to order a different model that fits the same mounting holes but only draws 11 amps. It, of course, has less air flow, but I do need the fan, electric fuel pump (~1 amp), ignition coil (~4 amps), and maybe some headlights at night (8-10 amps). I ordered a "Bare Bonz" kit from Ron Francis Wiring to provide an integrated connection block with fuses, light flashers, and relays. It will hide behind the dash panel but be easily removable for installation and changes. I'm thinking of using a smallish Optima absorbed glass mat battery, will mount it on the inside of the firewall behind the dash. The cockpit skin will have to come off to get to it easily, but I timed myself the other day and was able to get the cockpit skin off in under 4 minutes while working alone. I dragged out my piece of 4-inch exhaust pipe and dropped it in place to see if I needed bends in it. I think it will be OK to have it straight as there is only about 1/2" change of elevation over about 5 ft from the exhaust manifold. There will still be a lot of interesting welding to be done on the 0.065" wall steel tube. The pipe will need a little insulation wrap to prevent passengers from getting burns when climbing in or out. The original cars didn't have pipe wraps, but then the riding mechanics knew what they were doing. As there are no doors and the belly pan won't be good for supporting weight, entrance and egress requires careful planning and execution. The remote fill tube by the radiator. The aluminum fitting to the left of the filler is the Meziere thermostat housing. Overflow tank mounted on the radiator fan shroud. A 3/8" hose will come from the side of the remote fill to the tank. The 4" exhaust pipe placed in about the final location. A 3-degree taper pipe will be welded to the exhaust manifold to make a tight slip fit.
  2. I think the distributor cap for a 1950-ish Packard 8 (and lots of other cars) also fits. Rock Auto lists Standard Motor Products cap DR196 for $9.03. .Also on Ebay, Amazon, etc. At that price, it's worth a try. The Packard firing order was 16258374; I think your engine is the same order but I don't have a shop manual for FA/FB cars.
  3. Once I started to add the spark plug wires, it became clear that distributor drive shaft was not lined up correctly. I had to drain the oil, drop the pan, pull the oil pump, and rotate the drive gear, then put it all back together. With the rotor now aligned, the wires quickly went into the right places. I made a bracket to hold the coil, mounted those, and added the coil-to-distributor high tension wire. I like the old-style wire with the stripes. Now it's time to make and install the mechanical linkage to the carbs. A 1/2" shaft will run beside the carbs with arms to link to the throttle shafts. I have all those parts made [See back on Page 3, Sept. 2014]. Now I need the pieces that link to the gas pedal and make the carb shaft rotate. I drew up all the pieces on the computer and ordered a bunch of steel round and flat bar stock to machine them out of. Speedy Metals lets me order all kinds of stuff by the inch, so I don't have to buy a 3 ft bar. I have photos of the linkages in the original cars to work from, so I didn't have to dream up something myself. The slave shaft and bell crank mount on the firewall and have a cross pin to engage a slotted receiver on the main carburetor shaft. This allows the carbs to be removed without pulling the bell crank from the firewall. Once the metal stock arrives, I'll be spending time with the lathe and milling machine. I have to go shopping for the small yokes and pins to engage the bell cranks. Distributor and coil installed and high tension wires added. Carburetor shaft linkage on the green #37 car. My computer rendering of some of the parts to be made.
  4. Rex, the other cap is cheaper and I'm sure it works just as well. The problem with the Indy car is that the height under the hood is very limited. Even with the flat cap, the lead from the coil gets very close to where the hood surface will be. Here's today's picture of the coil mounted on the side of the block and the high tension wire connected to the distributor. The Indy cars had hood bulges because of the carbs sticking up so high, and they used low-mounted magnetos instead of the top mounted distributor. Additionally, the original spark plug wires were run inside of metal tubes for most of their length. Do I need insulating spacers to keep the wires apart? Rubber insulation is usually good for 1,000 volts per mil (1/1000"), so 7 mm o.d. wires should be good to 120,000 volts to ground or better. I don't want to encounter cross-firing, though. From one wire to another ought to be good for 240,000 volts. Of course, this applies to new wires, not old ones. My engine, May 22, 2020. Studebaker factory 250 cu in engine ca. 1933-34 showing magneto and spark plug wires in metal tubes. Distributor drive gear was used for tachometer.
  5. Rex, fortunately, that is NOT a crack in the head. It is a raised casting defect, not sure what the official name is for something like that, maybe a vein. It could have been in the sand mold. It does not appear to be a "cold shut". Jerry installed the ARP studs, as well as ARP rod bolts, not sure what he used as sealant, but he's done a number of these engines. I'll have to keep an eye on the torque of the nuts once I start running the engine through a few cycles. That will still be awhile before engine start-up, much plumbing and all the wiring to do, plus make the mechanical linkage from a gas pedal to the carb actuating shaft. In fact, I have no pedals at all yet. Right now, I'm just glad to have the distributor sorted out. I do have three extra reproduction distributor caps. They are the two-piece types with a screw-in terminal for the coil wire. Delco-Remy part numbers are 1854390 and 1854433, $175 each. Also fits 1935-37 Packard 8 with Delco-Remy distributor. Raised casting defect lit from side. Reproduction distributor cap.
  6. Yes, I could very much use a lift, but I missed my chance to make the garage ceiling tall enough to have a real lift. It probably would not have helped much in removing and reinstalling the oil pan. What I really need is my 14-year old, 5’-11” grandson to take a major interest in working on my cars. He might if I give him one.
  7. Yes, of course the oil pump section would tell me about lining things up for the distributor! I should memorize the entire shop manual. I looked down into the hole after pulling the distributor, saw that the slot in the shaft was more like 90 degrees to the cam instead of parallel to it. Time to drop the oil pump: 1. Find oil drain pan, clean it scrupulously, drain out 8 quarts of fresh oil with break-in lube added. 2. Undo thirty 5/16 screws in the oil pan, trying not to let it drop on me or tear the fresh gasket. 3. Undo the oil feed line from the pump, undo the two nuts on the pump and drop it. 4. Attempt to figure out which way and how much to turn the oil pump gear, re-install the pump. 5. Oops, wrong way. Drop pump. Turn oil pump gear four teeth the other way. 6. Rinse and repeat. 7. Eventually get the orientation right, push up the pump, tighten the nuts, re-attach the oil feed line. 8. Attempt to push the pan up to get a couple of screws started. Fail! 9. Find enough wood blocks to lift the pan, insert long 5/16 bolts to catch the pan 10. Push the pan up a bit, insert a few screws. 11. Back of pan hits bottom cover of bell housing, remove cover. 12. Insert rest of 30 oil pan screws, tighten gently on cork gasket. 13. Attempt to pour oil back into engine, use up half roll of paper towels mopping up spills. 14. Clean up oil drain pan and funnel and self. 15. Set static timing with ohm-meter for #1 cylinder, cut spark plug wires, install boots and clips, attach to distributor cap. 16. Stand back and admire job that took all afternoon, take a few photos. 17. Old guys should not be lying on the garage floor doing this kind of work. Pour a nice glass of Scotch to celebrate. Cylinder head where distributor mounts. Distributor drive coupling at bottom of distributor drive hole showing slot aligned with cam axis. Distributor wired to spark plugs. Now, where to mount the coil?
  8. In J. Mereness' photo of the Delahaye 135 at the 1948 Paris motor show, there are many banners with manufacturers' names overhead. At the very back is the Saurer banner. Saurer was a Swiss company that made cars and trucks since 1897 and had a truck division in the U.S. The U.S. group merged with Mack to form International Motor Co. after a Saurer truck made the first transcontinental trip across the U.S. in 1911. There is a book, "A Grand Adventure" by Ron Corbett, about the journey, a good read if you can find a copy. The book cover with colorized photo. The Saurer truck on its difficult way across the U.S. in 1911. There were no roads out west. A nephew of the Swiss Saurer family came to the U.S. to work at the truck factory in NJ, but soon moved on to work for Firestone. Curt Saurer was a whiz at designing rubber things using the elastic and compressive properties of rubber, eventually had about 50 patents. One of his inventions was the set of rubber doughnuts used as engine mounts in many cars. Curt Saurer, circa 1960. Curt Saurer's patent for a rubber vibration isolation mount. Here is one of the early Saurer/Mack trucks outside the headquarters building with the Blitzen Benz race car on board.
  9. I'm trying to put the distributor in the 1937 President 8 engine and set the timing. In principle, the wires from the Delco-Remy 662M distributor cap for the front four cylinders come out one side of the cap facing front, the others come out the cap facing rear. However, my cap has the wire ports for the front four cylinders facing pretty much to the back. This is for the cap with the wires exiting horizontal. I think I have the engine at TDC, but removing the #1 spark plug doesn't let me see the piston, though the valves are closed. The rotor is pointed slightly towards the back of the engine, say about 240 degrees to the front-to-back axis. I can pull the distributor and flip the distributor drive shaft 180 degrees to bring the rotor around if that's what it takes. I have the 1937, 1938, and 1940 Shop Manuals but they aren't specific about alignment of the rotor and shaft. Any guidance?
  10. Try Hagen's Auto Parts: https://hagensautoparts.com/studebaker/41-electrical/14359 Also try Tom van Meeteren: tsvanmeet (at) gmail.com, tel: For OH Too -tree five nein- fiver seben sicks too. Assume you have a Delco Remy type 658Z distributor. Yes?
  11. I finally got the water pump cleaned, painted, and ready for assembly. Then, my buddy George came up with a complete rebuild kit including new shaft and impeller (which was badly needed), along with thrust washers and bronze bushings. The shaft was cross-drilled for a pin at the back end, so it may have been made for a later pump version, but I was able to press the impeller farther onto the shaft an inch or so, cross drill it, and put in a steel pin to hold it in place. I had to turn down a piece of cold-rolled 1/4" rod to make the pin, planned to peen the ends over like a rivet. I thought that the pin would also shorten a bit and swell to fit tightly when I peened the ends but the cold-rolled rod turned out to be pretty tough stuff. The ends were peened enough the pin wouldn't fall out, but it could still slide back and forth more than I liked. I wound up feeding a few drops of Loctite Green down the pin and into the holes - it will never move now! Great stuff, and a little heat will make it release its grip. Not needed in my lifetime, though. Next time, use brass or soft steel for pins to be peened. The bronze bushing pressed into the blind hole in the rear cover of the water pump was a real challenge to remove. There is a $150 tool that uses an expanding set of fingers to get behind the back edge of a bushing, then an attached slide hammer is used to draw it out. My head had a problem spending $150 for something I might use only once for 2 minutes. I tried the trick used on pilot bearings in crankshafts of filling the hole with grease and hammering on a shaft placed in the hole. Unfortunately, the bushing has a groove like a keyway for distributing grease, so pressing on the end of the shaft only squirted grease out the groove. Following some things seen on the Interwebs, I filled the bushing and cavity behind it with wet toilet paper and pushed on the shaft in my hydraulic press. That did get the bushing started, but as it moved out of the hole, the old bushing split at its flange leaving the straight sleeve mostly in the hole. Removing the now wood-like toilet paper was a real pain; modeling clay or putty would have been better. It took a hacksaw blade in a single-ended handle to saw mostly through the sleeve in two places and tap out the pieces with a nail set. The bushing was very brittle. The cover was undamaged and unmarred, and the new bushing was pressed in. The flexible coupling between the water pump and generator shaft uses two rubberized cloth disks which I got from John Cislak, the Pierce-Arrow guy. The coupling needed eight 1/4-28 x 3/4 bolts cross-drilled for cotter pins and castle nuts. I drilled and tapped a piece of 1/2" square bar stock for a bolt to screw into, then drilled a cross hole to guide the drilling of the bolt shanks. Of course, the bolts turned out to be Grade 5 and very hard, so I broke two 1/16th inch drills making the holes but managed to remove the broken drill pieces. Resharpening a 1/16th drill bit by hand is challenge for my old eyes. The water pump re-assembled with its flexible coupling. Water pump installed. It had to come out again as I forgot to put the section of hose in place to the water manifold. After visits to several auto parts stores and a marine industrial supplier, I got the three sizes of hose needed to hook up the water pump to the engine and radiator. The thermostat is in an aluminum housing (Meziere) in the outlet hose from the head. It uses a modern thermostat so I can choose the operating temperature. While I had planned to have the radiator filler poke up through the grille shell to meet an old-style cap, I just couldn't make the filler and vent tube fit. I finally unsoldered the filler neck and soldered in a brass plate over the opening. I've ordered a remote fill tube that goes between the thermostat and radiator inlet. It will be under the hood. The vent tube will go to a stainless steel overflow/recovery tank so I won't be dripping coolant after a high speed run. 😄 Water plumbing being installed. With the distributor now in place, I wanted to set the timing, at least approximately. The timing marks are on the flywheel inside the bell housing. I guess in the large engine compartments of the old cars, the inspection port was accessible and visible. In the Indy car, the port is in the cockpit near the firewall. I was just able to crawl into the cockpit and point my camera into the hole where, fortunately, Jerry had set the the engine at TDC when he finished rebuilding it. Once the belly pan is on the car, only a snake could wriggle anywhere near that port. I fabricated an aluminum finger, attached under one of the front cover bolts, and engraved a TDC mark on the vibration damper. It will be easy to shine a timing light on the mark, though I'll need to add some additional marks near 16° BTDC. Aluminum finger and mark on vibration damper for timing. Still lots of plumbing to do for the fuel line. I had the tubing in hand and the AN-6 nuts but hadn't realized that AN/JIC fittings also need sleeves on the tubes, now on order along with the special 37-degree flare tool. Once past the electric fuel pump in the engine compartment, I'll transition to 3/8" rubber line to feed the four carbs.
  12. Since you have the engine apart, you should be able to find the serial number at the very front by #1 piston. That would help identify it and find the right parts, assuming the crack could be repaired. I think I know of one 337 Studebaker engine that might be available, will check on it.
  13. Studebaker Indy car #34 as it appeared in the 1933 Indy 500, finished 7th with Tony Gulotta at the wheel, Carl Riscigno as riding mechanic. Nine of the 42 cars running in the 1933 race had Studebaker engines. Car #34 was later cut down to a sports car and fenders added, perhaps by John Troka of Chicago. Here are some photos from a car meet in South Bend, In in 1951. The chassis, radiator shell, and mechanical pieces were found by Brooks Stephens about 1961 and restored to its 1933 form with a new body. It's now owned by August Grasis III of Kansas City. MO, and raced in vintage events. The current engine is actually a Pierce-Arrow 366 cu in straight 8, closely related to the Studebaker engines, just another 3/8" stroke. Car #34 at Indy in 1933. Car #34 converted to a sports car. Pictures from 1951. Car #34 in its current configuration, tended by mechanic George Hull.
  14. Here are some more photos of the FB engine as it was being rebuilt at Mystic Seaport in 2015. Ed, do you have main and rod bearings that will fit Nicolas' 1929 engine? Bill Cannon's article didn't address the interchangeabiliity those.
  15. Here is a page from the 1983 article written by Bill Cannon for the Antique Studebaker Review with the interchange info for Studebaker and Pierce-Arrow engines. It probably won't help much as they didn't build many engines of either brand. Most of the parts you mentioned should be re-usable if you are careful in disassembly. The Chamberlin Mill in central Connecticut reclaimed a similar President engine from a sawmill after it had sat outside in rain and snow for more than 40 years. They got it apart, cleaned up the pieces, and put it back together in the machine shops at the Mystic Seaport Museum. It's running again. Egge's catalog does show many of the President engine parts listed, but you'll have to ask them if they can actually deliver the parts. Maybe Arias Pistons/Carrillo can also provide some of the engine parts. Rebuilding a long-neglected 337 cubic inch President engine won't be easy, fast, or cheap, especially in Argentina. Best of luck to you!