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About Gary_Ash

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    SouthCoast, Massachusetts

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  1. BTT. I'm still looking for one of these 1941 Studebaker mirrors. At this point, I'd be satisfied with a really good photo of an original one. While I know Jay Fisher made some replicas, it seems that they were "modeled after" as opposed to exact replicas of the original style. The original ones seem to have been made in two pieces - a base attached to the cowl with two threaded studs and a rotatable arm to set the viewing angle. Anyone have a photo or two of a genuine original? I was able to purchase a Jay Fisher one-piece-arm replica for the right side, which was not available originally, but it won't work on the left side, and it's a different shape than the attached photo. I have tried to 3D scan the Jay Fisher right-side mirror and reverse it, but it hasn't worked out. Besides, the mirror head in the old Studebaker brochure looks to be in a location where the door will hit it when the door is opened, hence the Jay Fisher variation. l?
  2. To form the metal, you can make a "buck" using a piece of oak or MDF particle board. You can also use a steel bar if you are good at grinding. Shape it to fit the back side of the metal and maybe 1/4"-1/2" thicker than the depth of that rib. Make a paper pattern for the replacement piece and add 1/4" all around to permit trimming after forming. Cut out the metal using 20 gauge (easier to form) cold rolled steel, clamp it on top of the wood, and use a body hammer (buy a set with dollies) or slapper to gently tap the metal over the edge of the form and gradually bring it tight to the form. Grind it smooth with 150-220 grit. Pick a line on the old part and on the new part and trim both pieces not quite to the line. Don't make the joint on an inside corner because you won't be able to grind it smooth. Use a small angle die grinder (Harbor Freight or Tractor Supply) with a 2" diameter pad with 80 grit abrasive to bring the pieces exactly to the lines. The joint should be very tight before welding, no big gaps. Tack the repair piece in place, clamping near where you want to weld, then weld an inch at a time and let it cool to prevent warping. Grind the weld smooth starting with 80 grit, work to 220 grit. Grind along the length of the weld, not across it. You will probably have to use a dolly and metal slapper to level the welded area after grinding because the weld metal shrinks as it cools. To fill some of the rust holes, grind away the paint and rust on both sides. Clamp a piece of copper sheet, perhaps 1/32" to 1/8" thick behind the hole and weld in some metal, grind to level it. This works for small holes, not 1/2" long openings. The 75/25 Ar/CO2 mix will be fine.
  3. I bought some Versa-Chem metal grinding compound at O'Reilly's, came with a tube of coarse and a tube of fine. I put a seat in the lathe, dabbed some compound on the ball, and pressed it into the seat while spinning the seat. Two minutes with coarse and two minutes with fine produced a path about 1/8"-3/16" wide. I think they'll be OK. The seats didn't really have a truly spherical surface to start with as they were probably cold forged. It might be necessary to grind in 0.020" to 0.030" to get full contact with the ball, not worth the work. I think some material was removed from the ball during grinding, as well, but I won't be using that ball. Thanks for the suggestion, Ed.
  4. Ed: Excellent idea. I'll just have to go find some valve lapping compound, though I'll bet that few auto parts stores carry it any more, LOL. No, wait, my local Advance Auto Parts claims to have it in stock, according to their web site. And, the 5" chuck I put on my HF lathe can just barely grab the nub I turned on the back of the seats. [I converted the 7x10 lathe to 7x16 with a new bed from Little Machine Shop and upgraded from a 3" chuck - a lot more useful now.] Worth a try to lap the seats! Of course, after taking the photo of the old seats, I put the two of them down someplace and can't find them, so I'm now four short. Good thing I bought 8 seats. Mus be old-timer's disease setting in.
  5. The Model A ball seats arrived. They are close but not exact. I made up some paper templates to check the dish radius. I think they are sized for 3/4" balls, but it's hard to tell the difference. They are smaller in o.d. at about 0.692" versus the original's 0.776", they sit OK on the spring. They are a little thinner, so I dropped a 0.050" thick washer in to raise the spring a bit to compensate and keep the ball centered in the opening. The centering protrusion on the bottom of the seat is about 0.413" o.d. versus the original's 0.337", so I put some seats in the HF lathe and turned the protrusion down to size. The screw-in end cap has a recess to mate with this diameter, so that's good. My thinking is that even if the dish radius isn't quite right, the steel ball will start riding on a ring of contact and should eventually wear the bronze enough to widen the contact ring, lower the pressure, and reduce the wear rate. The link ends get filled with grease so wear should not be an issue. I think this will get me out of the bind of being short two seats while I continue looking for the "right" size ones. The seats I got came from Snyder's Antique Auto Parts, p/n A-18060-R, cost $1.20 each, so I bought 8. Tax and shipping brought the total to $15.90. Eventually, I'll see how well these work on the car.
  6. Actually, I did order a bunch of the Model A seats because one of the links I have was missing the seats. We'll see what size they are when they get here. And, I'll call Then and Now, don't know why I didn't think of them first, only 50 miles away from me, great folks. I thought about making some in my HF lathe, but I'd have to shell out $40-$60 for a decent 13/16" ball end mill bit.
  7. I'm using some large Houdaille shocks from a 1929 Studebaker President for my current project. I need to rebuild the shock links and replace the bronze seats that capture the ball ends on the shock arms and the bolts into the front axle . The balls are 13/16" diameter, the seats are about 0.776" o.d. Where can I get new seats that fit? I see seats for the 1929-31 Model A Fords at $1.20 each on line, but are they right size? Also, what is the preferred technique for stuffing the ball back into the heavily spring-loaded link end?
  8. When I got the tail back home, I just had to place it on the chassis to see how it looks. It needs more finishing and trimming of top and bottom edges, but it's starting to look right. Mike Cleary, owner of the blue #18 car, came to visit this week, so I got a lot more info from him about details of his car. The fuel filler assembly came back from the chrome plating shop (D&S Plating, Holyoke, MA). This was cast in silicon bronze from the pattern that I 3D printed. The finished part looks great, is the last part that needed to be chromed. The Phillips head screws need to be replaced with hex head screws since Phillips screws weren't used in cars until 1936. Now I need to get the fuel cell to mount in the rear of the car, and the electric fuel pump, and ...
  9. Another 3-day session with Wray Schelin at his Pro Shaper shop. While I worked on forming up the seating area from more aluminum, Wray spent a lot of hours fine tuning the surfaces on the tail. He sprayed blue Dykem over the rear-most area and ran a body file over it to highlight the high and low spots. A few taps with a steel slapper settles in high spots, but the low spots take more effort. Wray stuck a small magnet to the outside with some duct tape on the offending spot, then ducked inside the tail to locate the spot with a piece of steel and bump it out. His standard of acceptable is an error of less than the thickness of one coat of paint. I had thought the seat area was going to be simple and quick - wrong again! I did get the two seat pans formed up, the small separator between the two seats, and the seat backs, as well as the top pieces above the seats. The seat pans get riveted in, everything else will get welded once it all fits together. Here are the pieces and a photo of the #18 original car. See the wire form back in the Aug. 26 post. I also snapped a few shots of the replica of the 1933 Mcauley Packard one-off speedster that is being replicated in the shop using only old photos to determine shapes and dimensions.
  10. Ed: move the decimal point over about 2 places and you’ll still be under the cost... Good, fast, cheap: pick any two, sometimes only one. I like good.
  11. At long last (21weeks), the grille shell came back from Librandi's Plating. It was worth the wait, nice work on grinding and filling the rusty places and holes, very good quality chrome. The end result is a long way from where I started. It will look good on the front of the car, a very good copy of the original 1932 grilles.
  12. I'm looking for a cowl mirror for my 1941 Commander Delux-Tone Land Cruiser, accessory AC-1068. The mounting part replaced the short upper trim piece on the cowl. I'll take one in any condition, even broken, though I'd like a decent one that is replateable. I think this is a one-year-only part.
  13. The Studebaker Drivers Club and the Antique Studebaker Club are having their meets in Mansfield, OH this week. Attendance is good and many excellent cars to be seen. We drove our new-to-us 1941 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser about 797 miles from Massachusetts to get here. The show is at the county fairgrounds on Saturday morning. Several hundred cars will be here. We enjoyed seeing the collection of 1936 and 1937 coupes with the “bat wing” rear windows. Paul Derosier’s 1935 Studebaker cab-over truck made its first appearance after a 20-year restoration. A bunch of us went to the Mid Ohio Sports Car Course, made a few laps behind the track’s lead car. Note how in the photo below, my ‘41 Commander is holding off the Avantis through the turns 😄.
  14. From a photo at the Pennsylvania Lumber Museum on old U.S. Route 6 in Galeton, PA. It’s a fun place to visit on a road perfect for old cars. I never knew why the lever arm on steering gear was called a pitman arm.
  15. How about the Black Cherry color used on 1951 Studebakers? You can always have a shop mix up a small quantity of paint, even have it put in a rattle can, and spray it on an old door or fender from a junkyard. That's better than a small, flat panel for judging how it will look on a car.