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About Gary_Ash

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    SouthCoast, Massachusetts

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  1. I use TurboCAD Pro Platinum 2018 for modeling. It's a bit high end, but I got it for my consulting work some years ago, keep it updated. Here's the computer-generated image of the model in "chrome". The model gets saved in native .TCW format first, then saved as an .STL file. That's the kind that can be sent to 3D printing services like Shapeways or i.materialise. The STL file gets loaded into CURA 4.0 software to "slice" the model into layers. For the script I used a layer thickness of 0.1 mm, so the 4 mm thick (.160") needs 40 layers of printing. CURA generates a .GCODE file which I put on a micro SD chip to insert into the printer. Drawing the script in TurboCAD took about an hour to trace over the image from the Parts Catalog, the rest is only a few minutes. Printing the script took under 1 hour. The CAD work could probably be done in the $99 version of DesignCAD from the same company. Otherwise, using Shapeways, I can just drag-and-drop the .STL file onto their website, choose which material and finishing options I want, and a finished part arrives in about two weeks. Having the 3D printer here cuts out the delay for plastic parts, and costs only pennies per part instead of $13 plus shipping for the script in plastic from Shapeways. The Ender 3 printer only cost $192, including the shipping.
  2. George and I discussed this a bit. I copied the very small drawing in the 1928-40 Parts Catalog and drew the script up in CAD, printed it out on my little 3D printer to the scale shown by Richard's photo above. Having a real drawing might have made it just a bit more accurate, but it's not too bad. Getting to a zinc (or other metal) part with chrome plating is the expensive step. Shapeways can print it out in stainless steel/bronze, polish it, and nickel plate it for $29. It won't be exactly like well-polished chrome-on-zinc, but it can be done. Here's my print in PLA white plastic.
  3. I called Dennis Dupont again to ask him to measure a 1938 joint. It seems to be 6-5/8 inch o.d., larger than the 6-1/16 o.d of the type 602 part from Morflex. The hole spacing between the bosses is also larger. The part for 1938 cars is different in that the bosses in the joint are threaded, use 1/2” cap screws for mounting. The 1936-37 joint has through bolts with nuts. I wonder if Morse, now owned by Regal Beloit, can make up the next size up part, probably would be numbered 652 or similar. I asked the Studebaker Museum to send me the drawings for the two versions, may take a few weeks. I did find some info online from a U.K. site that showed replacing the rubber and steel bosses in some. similar joints by pressing out the old ones, coating the new parts with vaseline, and pressing in the new ones. That would be interesting if you could save the old, odd-sized body and press in four new bosses.
  4. It looks like Morse Chain Co. in Ithaca, NY and Laycock Engineering in England were making the same parts back in the 1930s (and still today), so there must have been some licensing deal. Here are some pages from a current Morflex catalog. I wonder if one of the models matches up to the configuration of the 1938 coupling. The 1936-37 joints (p/n 189126) are different from the 1938 joints (p/n 192896). The Studebaker drawings should be in the Museum archives and would list the supplier name and part number. The current Morflex parts should be obtainable through industrial equipment distributors or online.
  5. As Mike, over at the SDC site, suggested, you may want to replace the U-joints with modern ones, though you have to have a new driveshaft made. I talked with Dennis Dupont in NH. He has the parts to convert over to a Standard Spicer driveshaft that uses standard Spicer 1310 U-joints. You can call Dennis at Six Oh tree- 434 - niner too niner oh. The front yoke can be replaced with a 196406 yoke, the back flange with a 521825 flange (superseded 196394). Dennis will tell you about some other parts he has. The original U-joints are called "Layrub couplings". They are still manufactured, mostly for industrial equipments, large trucks and buses. You can try the Lagonda Club website, as they seem to offer these and the special bolts, but check sizes. You may be able to buy Layrub couplings in the U.S.
  6. Yes, I heard that, too, a few months ago. Let's see if the guy I heard it from steps forward. I presume we are talking about the 1928-33 President engine at 337 cubic inches. The water manifold plate is a stamping about 35 inches long. I have seen an engine with a replacement plate hogged out of billet aluminum to the same shape as the stamped part. It seemed to work, but I wondered about the differential expansion from a cold engine to a warmed up one. Here are my calculations for a sheet steel, stainless steel, and aluminum cover. Is the difference enough to make the plate move enough to get leaks? Maybe with an unpressurized system it wouldn't be too bad, but a leak is a leak and it leaves an ugly trail. I guess a plate could just be machined from A36 steel bar, too, to better match the expansion. It's also easy enough to weld one up from sheet, though I'm not sure how well welds hold up in hot water. THERMAL EXPANSION OF WATER MANIFOLD VERSUS ENGINE BLOCK water manifold length 35 in 889 mm temperature cold 70 °F 21.1 °C temperature warm 180 °F 82.2 °C temperature difference 110 °F 61.1 °C Coefficients of thermal expansion Cast iron 5.8 x10-6 in/in/°F 10.4 x10-6 m/m/°C Sheet steel, 1008 7 x10-6 in/in/°F 12.6 x10-6 m/m/°C Stainless steel, 304 9.6 x10-6 in/in/°F 17.3 x10-6 m/m/°C Aluminum, 6061 13 x10-6 in/in/°F 23.4 x10-6 m/m/°C Growth in length, cold-to-hot Cast iron 0.022 in 0.565 mm Sheet steel, 1008 0.027 in 0.685 mm Stainless steel, 304 0.037 in 0.940 mm Aluminum, 6061 0.050 in 1.271 mm Difference, block to manifold Sheet steel, 1008 0.005 in 0.120 mm Stainless steel, 304 0.015 in 0.375 mm Aluminum, 6061 0.028 in 0.706 mm
  7. Wondering what other cylinders might fit - your problem is a good mystery challenge! - I Googled for suppliers of vintage door locks and keys. At the site, if you search on Studebaker, a long list comes up for keys. Scroll down to the H1122M blank, which is listed for 1925-37 Studebakers, as well as 1931-32 Chryslers, some Willys, and Checkers. There are a lot of other 1122 blanks with different last letters. These seem to indicate the number and shape of the grooves, so even if the cylinder from another car fits, your current key may not - unless you get a Studebaker cylinder from that period. Here is something from another site, "Early Studebakers from the 1931-1940 used wafer keys and keyway O1122A. 1941-1949 models used an X1199AR blank for the door and ignition with the O1122A keyway continuing for trunk locks. 1949-1952 models often used Hurd locks with the same Ilco 1125H keyway as 1932-1951 Ford. Studebaker went back to the X1199AR blank from 1952-1965. Ilco O1122A blanks were used during 1952-1965 for trunk locks." Does that mean a trunk lock from a '50s or '60s Studebaker might provide a cylinder? It's also worth calling Studebaker International to see if they have any old locks in stock. Many times they have "one of" that is not shown in the catalog, especially on pre-war stuff. I have disassembled these locks to swap the little tabs so that I could make a cylinder that matched my current one. With only a few old cylinders, you can usually make up a set of tabs. You may need a jeweler's eye loupe to read the number or letter stamped on the tab. For anyone who wants to disassemble a cylinder, be sure to do it inside a bucket or drawer lined with a white cloth because the odds are that lots of little tabs and tiny springs and things will go flying.
  8. Looking at the cylinder, it almost invites being directly 3D printed in stainless steel/bronze - if the exact dimensions existed. can print in stainless/bronze, polish the part, and nickel plate it. The biggest difficulty is that dimensions of the finished part can be +/- 5% from the CAD file, which is a lot on a part like this. The original die castings must have had an incredibly complex die to make all the slots and holes. There must have been lots of other cars that also used these locks, so it should be possible to find a cylinder. Just for fun, here's a quick 3D rendition of a lock cylinder based on your photo and a cylinder I have from a 1948 M5 truck (not the same part). The only dimension I had from your part is the 21/32" dimension, the rest is scaled from your one photo or flat-out guessed. Shapeways says it would cost about $32 for printing, polishing, and nickel plating. The original part must have been zinc.
  9. My 1929-40 Body Parts Catalog shows the lock cylinder and keys (2 ea) as p/n 256766, used on all 6's and 8's from 1929-36 in door handles (right side only, of course). It was also used in the trunk handle up to 1935. The 1934-46 Parts Catalog also shows the 256766 lock cylinder and keys being used in spare wheel carriers on 1934-36 Dictators, 1934-35 Commanders, and 1934-40 Presidents. So, a lock cylinder or door handle/trunk handle/spare wheel carrier from any of those cars would provide your part.
  10. Don and others: Finally, I have some of the 1937 speedometer faces ready. For those of you that have messaged me about wanting one, I'll pack them up and get them out this week. Here is a photo.
  11. Al, you can see the list of bronze bushings that Mike Eaton stocks by clicking the link I posted, then selecting Bushings from the product tab. You'll see the bronze ones there. Sizes seem to range from 0.5" to 0.75" i.d., in various lengths If you don't see what you want, call Mike Eaton. I used Grade 8 hex cap screws, 3.5" to 5.5" long. I had planned on using aircraft-grade NAS series bolts. They are very high strength, but the 3/4" ones run about $50 each - if you can get them in the exact length you want. I did compare Grade 5 to Grade 8 in both tensile and shear strength, decided that my way- oversized 3/4" bolts in Grade 8 would not be too brittle in shear for a 2500 lb car. I did use NAS nuts and some NAS washers, as they are available in different thicknesses. The local machine shop drilled the 1/8" holes and tapped them for grease fittings using carbide tools - no broken drills or taps. Your 4140 pins should be fine, even without heat treating afterwards, assuming you started with normalized material; 98,000 psi yield strength. Photos below show the spring mounting arrangement. The bolts in the photos are the cheap Home Depot ones I used to test fit before getting the greaseable Grade 8 ones. For a good reference on suspension issues and other speedster/race car design and handling questions, I rely on "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by Milliken and Milliken. Not a cheap book, but lots of good, interesting stuff.
  12. Eaton Detroit Spring has a good selection of bronze bushings for leaf springs. You can have them machine spiral grooves inside to distribute the grease and use hex cap screws drilled part way down the center with a cross hole. The cap screws should have shanks long enough that no more than 1 or 2 threads are in the bushing or shackle. That should enable keeping grease in the bushings at all times. See
  13. I got a few other things done on the car. Having received the radiator, I realized I needed a fitting for the lower tank to connect to the hose leading to the water pump. In my naiveté, I assumed that I could just go online and buy the fitting, assuming it was the same as a Ford AA truck fitting. Nah, it's a special! So I had to draw it up in the CAD program, get a 3D print, and have it cast at a local foundry. Part way through the process, I bought a 3D printer (because they are now very cheap - and I WANTED one). I printed out the part in clear PLA plastic (3.5 hours) and sent it to the art foundry for casting in silicon bronze. A week later, they had the part ready, needing only a little finish machining and drilling of the bolt holes. It turns out that you can use a 3D printed PLA plastic part instead of a wax master for investment casting, making the process cheaper and faster. I also sent off a bunch of Houdaille shock absorbers to Apple Hydraulics for rebuilding. Four of the six were successful, and Apple was able to bend the arms 90 degrees in two places to get the shape I needed. They did a great job and provided quick service. The shocks now fit on the mounts and the links line up with the front axle. The rear shocks are also done, though I need to buy the links for those.
  14. And that's why rivets are used: they don't come loose!
  15. Sometimes the armature in the starter needs to be turned to have good connections to the brushes.