telriv

On EVERY carb. I rebuild they ALL go through a process. Reason many of my re-builds seem to be costly. Re-bushed throttle shafts IF NEC. In MANY cases only the primary shafts need to be re-bushed. Seldom the secondary's, BUT sometimes also. Seized up throttle shafts, etc. Rusted linkage beyond recognition. Water intrusion corroding internally. EVERYONE is installed on a running/driving '64 Riv. I have & use for this process. DON'T need a problem with an overseas carb. as shipping back & forth can get to be quite costly. Ask those I've done rebuilds for & ask them/those questions & whether satisfied or not & their impressions. Tom T.

Even when new IF they sat for awhile, a week or more, you would have to crank them for awhile. Way back when they were a newer car & more than likely a daily driver so you didn't run into these problems. AGAIN, I would rather crank it over for awhile to get oil flowing RATHER than a dry start. Todays fuel with alcohol evaporates even faster with the normal heat of the engine. Tom T.

Even when new IF they sat for awhile, a week or more, you would have to crank them for awhile. Way back when they were a newer car & more than likely a daily driver so you didn't run into these problems. AGAIN, I would rather crank it over for awhile to get oil flowing RATHER than a dry start. Todays fuel with alcohol evaporates even faster with the normal heat of the engine. The cure install an electric fuel pump or fuel injection. Now we're back to the dry start situation. Which would you rather have??? Tom T.

How about shining a light in the opposite end???? May help to see inside. Tom T.

Yes John, I'm returning them. Tom T.

I just bought 2 kits from my local NAPA jobber. Are you sitting down. They listed for $187.00 + each & cost me 107.00 + each. Time for a change. Tom T.

Hoping to be there Also. Would be GREAT to meet you after all these years. Tom T.

NO, AND it is NOT replaceable as far as I know. The tube has some kind of restriction inside of it to slow down the flow of hot air or else the incoming air would not be hot enough to heat up the choke coil. One reason some replace the hot air choke coil with an electrically operated choke coil. IF the system is working correctly, is, you will feel vacuum at the source where the rubber hose connects to the top of the carb. IF everything is sealed correctly. Tom T.

On my '64 I bought new the number on the engine & the top of the cowl should match to be a numbers matching vehicle/car/engine. Example: the engine number stamped on the block in front of the valley pan, in my case, 7K1076554 is the same as on the cowl. Again: 7K1076554 Which also has the engine code of KW which relates to a '64 with a 425 4bbl engine. Hope this helps. Tom T.

Or buy one of my bolt-in NEW Mini Starters for your Nail. Problems now solved once & forever. May even cost less than having yours professionally built to high torque specs. Tom T.

TO ALL. Most ALL of these headliners start out white & are dyed/sprayed the color of your choice when ordered. On a hidden part of the headliner clean off the top layer & you will see White underneath. Just a FYI. Tom T.

I am in total agreement with Bernie. I've had my '64 Riv. since new in '64. 60 years later I still enjoy it as I did the 1st. day I drove it home off the dealers lot. Like myself we are both getting a little long in the tooth, but still ENJOYABLE. Tom T.

That component, looks to me, is a factory installed reverberator. Kinda rare. I installed a Motorola reverberator in my Riv. in '64 & it still works. Tom T.

Carl. I usually bias the grease fitting towards the bottom. Not quite center. All you are trying to do is get as much grease on the center of the ball as possible. Try not to drill in one step. Try to keep the chips from entering the cavity of the joint so there are no or very little drilling chips in the link/ball stud area as possible. Tom T.

You are correct. Thanks for catching that. My bad. Tom T.