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About telriv

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    NailHeads--1st. Gen. Rivs.- -Custom Forged Pistons--Supplier of Many Performance Parts--Mini-Starters ALL "Nails"---"808" Fast Ratio Bolt-In Steering Boxes-Front & Rear Modern Seals--Oil Pumps--AFB Carb. Re-Builds--Re-Bushing Throttle Shafts--Milling Warped Bases--Re-Build/Re-Curve Distributors-Convert Electronic Ignition, etc/etc/etc

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  1. Can't answer those questions as I have no idea. It's what I've read & been told. ALL I have to rely on is my experience as an auto tech for the past 60+ years IF that means anything to anyone. Tom T.
  2. No Bill I used that gap when I was using points in my '64 Riv. Remember they require 1/2 the voltage nec. You DO NEED good plug wires though. Tom T.
  3. Art, Your not thinking about the associated parts that go along with a roller cam. By the time all is said & done it can cost up to 2K extra. Now you have to deal with the hydraulic lifters that will normally come in the "Kit". For sure you don't want to deal with all that incurs for extra costs. So what I'm tryin' to say is it's not just plug & play. There's an extra cost for upgrades & this is an important step. I know a few that are using rollers & the benefits can be rewarding. The extra costs not so much. When I have a flat tappet cam made I spend the extra to have it nitrided as an extra precaution. So far doing it this way I haven't had a problem. Years ago when I was racing a '63 Impala 409/425 we had problems with the cams. One wore out while adjusting valves. Turns out we had one of the defective blocks that had the lifter bores not correct from the factory. Now this is when the oils had high amounts of zinc & phosphorous. I have also done Pontiac 400 & 455's that had the same problems along with SBC. So none of them are impervious to these problems. LOTS of the proper cam lube, correct oils, pre-lubing/priming, etc. Tom T.
  4. The ONLY way to get a quality forged piston & good rings is through myself. Tom T.
  5. Not saying ANYTHING bad about Falcon, but you have to watch what's supplied & the pistons will almost undoubtedly be Egge. Tom T.
  6. That is correct Bill & what I normally use. They require 1/2 the voltage to fire. Are a Multi Hear Range plug that adjusts itself automatically. VERY resistant to fouling & last just about forever in our applications. Tom T.
  7. Myself I wouldn't buy ANYTHING from Egge. IF your lucky you may end up with 8-1 compression or less as their pistons are made to cover ALL variables. Not a good choice as most parts supplied are foreign cheapo stuff. They just fill the box with what they have available & can supply easily. For what it costs to build a "Nail" you want it to run at least as good as before you removed it. Same goes with machine shops who most ALWAYS apply SBC rebuilding techniques which don't work on a "Nail". Shop CAREFULLY for parts & a machine shop or you may end up to be one of those with ANOTHER horror story. Tom T.
  8. As we know unfortunately not always, but most times.
  9. IF you want something EXTREMELY RARE I have a set of "Motor Wheel Spyders". 5x5x15x6 in good condition I MAY part with for the right $$$$ Tom T.
  10. With the console up just a little bit the carpet should slide out UNLESS it was replaced before & glued.
  11. If you look at the very rear of the console you'll see a screw under the rear lamp. Remove this & you SHOULD be able to lift the console enough to slide the rug underneath. Just don't force it as it WILL break. This screw is kinda long & it will probably be a pain to re-install. Just get a probing device like a test light to try & find the hole.
  12. In my opinion ANYTHING that hasn't run in 10 yrs. is little more than scrap value. As others have said depends on options, etc. You will DEFINITELY be looking at the POTENTIAL of an engine rebuild, brakes overhauled, gas tank removed, cleaned out or replaced, along with a carb. rebuild, fuel pump, etc. etc. etc.
  13. Although not as early as yours 12D equates to 4th. week of Dec. 1963 so I would say it's fairly early.