telriv

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About telriv

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    1k+ Senior Member

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    ct.
  • Interests:
    NailHeads--1st. Gen. Rivs.- -Custom Forged Pistons--Supplier of Many Performance Parts--Mini-Starters ALL "Nails"---"808" Fast Ratio Bolt-In Steering Boxes-Front & Rear Modern Seals--Oil Pumps--AFB Carb. Re-Builds--Re-Bushing Throttle Shafts--Milling Warped Bases--Re-Build/Re-Curve Distributors-Convert Electronic Ignition, etc/etc/etc

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  1. The AFB & Edelbrocks tops can be changed to accept the smaller diameter air filter housings. Throttle shafts also interchange..
  2. Yeah, before you know it the garage & basement are full & you have to buy/rent containers to keep the parts in for someday??? Which not hopefully EVER comes.
  3. Exactly what that it is. A lower right control arm at that.
  4. I WAS THERE at 18 years old & I bought my '64 Riv. because I thought/felt it was better at the time than anything else was offered.
  5. Your right Ed as Pontiac was one step up from Chevy. Then came Buick/Olds & top of the Heep Cadillac
  6. Glad you worked it out. I was gonna suggest to replace the throttle shaft for one with the proper hook-ups which I could have done for you. Tom T.
  7. Bill, Don't know IF I asked. Can't find it in any of our conversations. I NEED your e-mail address so I can send you pics of the rear bar from my '64 Riv. Thanks, Tom T.
  8. I have a good used distribution block IF you destroy yours upon removal of the rear line. To plump your new M/C after you remove the rear line put a plug where you removed the line. Remove the line from the original master. Fabricate the new line & connect it to the block where the original line went. Now run the rear line of the M/C to the rear line & connect them with a connector. Done!!!! Very little brake line fab required. Don't forget to give the new lines coming out of the master a couple curls to help keep the flexing lines from being over stressed & eventually breaking. Tom T.
  9. They are a far cry above what has been available except for maybe the KYB's. They will stiffen the car up as far as ride & handling. To me NOT a bad thing. Something a little softer were the KYB's & priced competitively also as less costly than the Bilsteins. The next logical step up is sway bars if you want to go around corners at a good clip Ask the Turbinator as I installed a rear bar on his last year. Then ask Riviera63, Bill, in a few weeks after his shocks & sway bars are installed. Back in late '69 early '70 I worked with a guy at ADDCO & we designed a rear sway bar for my '64 Riv. To my dismay what they replaced it with I found out that it was NO WHERE NEAR what was originally designed. I went through a lot of hassle removing mine & sending it to be copied. Now we have a rear bar that is as close to a bolt-on than you can get. Fits '63-'65 & maybe '66 Rivs. as well as Full Size cars from '61 to at least '65 maybe further up in the years. Tom T.
  10. Going back & looking at the pic you posted more closely your going to need both the pipe & the valve. Might as well get them now before you have to lay the car up because you DIDN'T buy what was recommended.
  11. I'll take it for the $112.00. If Kreed passes. Tom T.
  12. Yeah, who knows Brian??? Although there was an Olds dealership just down the road. Buick may have been out of stock at the time & since it was the holidays, Thanksgiving, Christmas & New Years time line, mechanically they worked & operated in the same manner MAYBE??? the Buick dealer just decided to install what was, at the time, readily available???? Tom T.
  13. The best & easiest way is bring it to the UPS store & have them box/crate it & insure it for a G note. IF it arrives broken then you get paid. Take pics of it while in their possession for proof. I've had this happen to myself twice now. Both the consumer & I came out OK. Just for the hey of it get me a quote for zip 06853. I have a friend with a '67 & that grille looks much better than his. I WON'T sell it to him. Just for the cost of shipping. Tom T.