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telriv

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  1. That component, looks to me, is a factory installed reverberator. Kinda rare. I installed a Motorola reverberator in my Riv. in '64 & it still works. Tom T.
  2. Carl. I usually bias the grease fitting towards the bottom. Not quite center. All you are trying to do is get as much grease on the center of the ball as possible. Try not to drill in one step. Try to keep the chips from entering the cavity of the joint so there are no or very little drilling chips in the link/ball stud area as possible. Tom T.
  3. You are correct. Thanks for catching that. My bad. Tom T.
  4. Just a caution. Make sure the shop you pick uses the proper listing wire & NOT COAT HANGERS!!!! Tom T.
  5. Just for information for those looking to do there own seat repair. DO NOT use coat hanger as it will shortly deform after you start sitting on it. USE THE CORRECT LISTING WIRE as it will NOT deform over the passage of time. The CORRECT stuff is cheap as opposed to other parts as are used on our Rivs. Tom T.
  6. At least my memory is correct to a certain degree. As have been found to be somewhat true. Tom T.
  7. To ALL with 1st. gens. Remove the center link WITHOUT destroying it. Once you have it removed turn the stud protruding 1/2 turn. This will now put the ball stud on a mostly unused/less used portion of the ball stud. Carefully drill a hole on the side of the draglink/centerlink & install a grease fitting. You are now using a less worn part of the ball stud which MAY save you some $$$. I have done it for some who didn't want to spend the $$$ & were happy with the results. I wouldn't say it's a lasting repair as it will just tighten it up better. Just my thoughts. Tom T.
  8. AS MANY of you know I rebuild MANY of these of AFB's. I have been rebuilding them since I bought my Riv. new in 1964. As I remember the tags never had a number on them. The tags were all a certain color which denoted/identified the particular carb. that came on an original car/body. MAYBE some of the earlier AFB's had numbers on them, but not as I remember. In an answer to your question I remember they were mounted in the rear. Looking at the carb. standing looking at it from the front the screw is mounted on the right rear at the is 2 O'clock position. Tom T.
  9. I've owned mine since new with Black interior & the headliner was & still remains Silver. Tom T.
  10. texdave, Just add a pint of DEX111 bake fluid. Will do the same thing by swelling the seals & is less costly than the sealer. Tom T.
  11. The rear dipstick trans. tube is normally held on by a bellhousing bolt. Tom T.
  12. The A/C bracket bolt is a 1/4" longer. The P/S bolts are standard length & have a stud. Tom T.
  13. You can't do a proper balance job WITHOUT THE PISTONS. You also need to have the flexplate & harmonic balancer on/mounted for proper balance. The con rods also need to be checked/balanced to properly balance the crank. Tom T.
  14. Your putting a lot of time into something that in my mind is faveolus. Polishing the drum to a high shine & clear coating it would do wonders for the look. Just use cast iron gray for the hub & done. Tom T.
  15. They started putting numbers on the trans. starting Jan. 1st. 1964. Since your trans number is 302 it was built the 302nd. day of 1964. You can confirm this by the build date of the car. If they coincide with the build date it would be the original trans. Tom T.
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