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telriv

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About telriv

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    1k+ Senior Member

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    ct.
  • Interests:
    NailHeads--1st. Gen. Rivs.- -Custom Forged Pistons--Supplier of Many Performance Parts--Mini-Starters ALL "Nails"---"808" Fast Ratio Bolt-In Steering Boxes-Front & Rear Modern Seals--Oil Pumps--AFB Carb. Re-Builds--Re-Bushing Throttle Shafts--Milling Warped Bases--Re-Build/Re-Curve Distributors-Convert Electronic Ignition, etc/etc/etc

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  1. All I know is the one above the starter held in place with two head bolts. Post pics. would help. I've done lots of these & I've owned my '64 Riv. since new & I know it only has the one.
  2. Dipstick goes straight into the block. NO TUBE. When you change the oil initally put in 3 qts. & see where it reads on the stick. Should be one quart low. IF it doesn't correspond to the markings on the stick remark it as nec. then add 4th. & check & remark again IF nec.
  3. Looking at the pic posted if you use the box end of the wrench with the heat above in the approx. area of the stud it may just be enough to get the stud to start & move. Some PBlaster or WD40 or some other penetrate & let it sit overnight. Or try some heat 1st. & then spray. While things are expanded maybe the penetrate will wick it's way down/up the threads. Then try the heat again BEFORE you try again in the am & more spray. Maybe get a piece of sheet metal to kinda protect the painted areas. Tom T.
  4. I agree, it is a hard area to get at. Again patience is a virtue. Try double nutting it again. Since your not gonna use the old grill again is it a possibility you can use some heat from a propane torch??? WITHOUT harming the paint??? Tom T.
  5. Arthur, One other little hint. Do your best to just slightly loosen the clamps inboard of the front spring. Will make pulling the new hose through easier. ALSO, replace the hose coming out from the fuel tank to the frame of the car. The hose from the tank is kinda hard to get at. Use a pair of long nose needle nose pliars to pull the OEM clamp back. Then spray some carb. cleaner on the hose at the tank. This will soften it up a little & you should be able to pull it off. IF that doesn't work use an Exacto knife to slice/split it. Tom T.
  6. As stated above early cars had negitve caster for easier steering. With negitive caster the car is being lead by the rear wheels. I've stated this previously MANY times, especially for the Rivs. up until 1970 & beyond & '63 back full size cars. Some cars from the factory today are running +12* to +15* of positive caster. Now the car is being lead by the front wheels. You ALWAYS do a 4 wheel alignment even if the rear is non adjustable. This way the front is set by the rear centerline so you end up with a straight steering wheel driving down the road. My recommenda
  7. AND if everyone is still using the original specs. for alignment your not getting the real true benefits from the radial tires. Update tires or suspension need update on alignment specs. even with the old bias ply tires. Time to step up to more modern technology. The judges can't tell what your alignment is set up for. Tom T.
  8. Ed, 1/4 mile at a time would be pretty impressive. The most 1/4 mile runs I did in one year was 97 passes, IF I remember correctly, was around 2003 when I was R & D'ing my rocker arms. Was shooting for 100 BUT didn't quite make it. The 1st. year I owned the car I put close to 40K miles on it. It was a daily driver back then & put about another 30K on it. Then I got drafted & other than Dad putting it in the garage for me (keeping his '57 Plymouth outside) & taking it on a weekly drive to show off to his buddies it had probably about an additional 10K on it
  9. AGAIN, that trunk cardboard is because of the time I spent with Clarks yers ago to produce what you see & are using. The SMALL problems you are having/experiencing are minor compared to the junk that's out there. Tom T.
  10. George, I'm more than certain you will be VERY HAPPY with your decision. Tom T.
  11. Art, Not nec. just use red LocTite on the nut. Shouldn't ever move then. Tom T.
  12. Clem, Just send me a PM & we can discuss it. Tom T.
  13. For some reason the pulley MAY have been removed previously & it wasn't tightened properly to begin with. My '64 Riv. has 300+K on it & I've had it since new & my pulley has NEVER come loose. Tom T.
  14. Many years ago I had my heater core repaired. Since my '64 has NO A/C I was able to get it out WITHOUT touching the console. Of course I was alot more nimble/contorsence than I am today. As I remember it was no big deal at the time. Tom T.
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