The Car Which Shall Not Be Named III (1935 Lincoln K)

[Matt Harwood]

Thanks for the feedback on oil pressure from several of you. In my obsessive-compulsive way, I've been doing a lot of reading and it really boils down to the old engine builder's adage of "10 PSI per 1000 RPM." That should be plenty for any engine, and my engine is making about that much oil pressure. I'm not going to sweat bullets over this. Real-world advice from you guys seems to confirm that my engine is at least within the realm of "normal," if only slightly on the low side. With good quality oil in the crankcase, I think it's going to be OK.

 

And I've almost managed to sell myself on that belief. Almost.

 

What I really wanted to show you yesterday was installing the oil pressure gauge--at least the challenging part. Shoving it in a hole in the glove box was easy, but getting it hooked up was more difficult. I made the adapter to replace the bypass valve with a sleeve in order to feed the oil pressure gauge directly, and that's where I installed the adapter for the 1/8-inch capillary tube. I used copper rather than the plastic stuff that they include with the gauge, and it looks right in the Lincoln's engine bay.

 

Installed the compression adapter on the

oil bypass valve housing.

 

Then I made a wire template to duplicate using 

the 1/8 copper capillary tubing. I added some

coils at each end to help reduce the chances of

metal fatigue due to vibrations.

 

  

Added a loop and ran the line to the firewall behind

the water pump manifold.

 

 

Ran the capillary tube to one of the holes in the firewall

left by the removal of the firewall heater. Looks a little

cleaner without the return line from the oil filter.

 

I covered the firewall holes with magnets that

have convenient 3/16" holes in the center. Easy

to run the tubing and if I ever want to reinstall

the heater, the mounting holes will be there.

 

Ugh. The fitting on the back of the gauge did

not fit the compression fitting included with 

the gauge. WTF? So I ran to Summit Racing

and actually bought a new gauge that was

a closer match to the temperature gauge.

 

New oil pressure gauge on the left. Even though

it's a different brand (VDO vs. Stewart-Warner)

the look is pretty similar. I'm satisfied, although

you'll note I painted the chrome rim of the SW

gauge to help them match. See? Total OCD.

 

[Grimy]

Matt, to prevent a future stroke, please don't ever buy a Pierce-Arrow, especially not a 1925-28 Series 80/81, whose hot idle oil pressure is 1-2 psi--per the manual.  On the other hand, the same cars can easily generate 80+ psi on initial startup at 1,000 rpm, which is why they have 100 psi oil gauges, and 20-25 psi at hot cruise is just fine.  I've had explained to me by more knowledgeable long-time owners that Pierces rely on oil volume rather than psi.  I have carefully read Pierce's Engineering Committee minutes from the late 1910s, and one item there was to substitute a 100 psi gauge for the previous 50 psi gauge for 1918 48 dual valve models, presumably for the same reason.  Trust other Lincoln K owners to tell you what is normal.

[Stude Light]

You can always switch to SAE 50. That is all I ever used in my aircraft engines in the summer. Oil temps run a little hotter on the air cooled Lycoming engines so the higher viscosity was needed. It is definitely more viscous than 20w50 when hot. It would be another incremental improvement.

 

 

[Matt Harwood]

So who knows how to install the metal sidemount covers? I spent about two hours tonight trying to figure out how they fit and I'm stumped. Getting the wheels mounted was a bit of a challenge since I didn't take the thing apart, but I think I eventually got it positioned and locked down properly. It wasn't intuitive at all.

 

Fairly sure this is how the wheel should be held in

place. One lug bolt and a bracket. The bracket

should ideally fit where the lug bolt is, but

obviously that won't work. This was the next

best position.

But more importantly, getting the metal sidemount covers in place was a real wrestling match and I lost. I tried switching sides, switching orientation, flipping the perimeter skins around, and it never seemed to fit correctly.

 

Here's how it looked when I got the car. Perimeter skin and face panel fit together pretty tightly:

 

Here's the best I could do tonight:

 

It's still not centered on the wheel, there's still a considerable gap around the perimeter, and it rattles. What the heck holds the cover in place? Surely not just tension on the tire, right? There are a couple of wires hanging off the ends of the perimeter skins but I'm not sure they're designed to hold anything in place--they don't look OEM.  I should also note that my spares are smaller than the tires on the ground: 7.00-17 vs. 7.50-17. They fit well before, they should fit well again.

 

Should I try to install the cover on the tire before I put it into the sidemount well? That sounds like a recipe for a lot of damaged paint, but I'm not sure what else can be done.

 

Any advice?

 

 

Edited June 13, 2023 by Matt Harwood (see edit history)

[alsancle]

Matt, I’m not familiar with Lincoln, but the ones that I have dealt with all have to be installed before you put the tire in the well.

 

Also, since new tires tend to be wider than the originals, usually there is no air in the tire.. You might have to shave the tire too.

 

my new plan is that when the tire covers are optional, I do not put them on the car. They are not worth the hassle.
 

 

[WHSEWARD]

Matt, I've been following your travails with a lot of interest and sympathy for some time now, and I hope I can help with your sidemount issue.  I'm not going to tell you the "correct" way to mount your spares, just how I managed (after much swearing and scratched paint trying all sorts of things) to do it.  I have a 34 KA Town Sedan so I HOPE the sidemount covers and mounting shoulders are close enough for this to work.

 

First, let most or all of the air out of the spare (which should be one of the crappiest tires of the correct size that you can find).  Place the tire face cover on the spare.  Then with the covered spare flat on the floor, cover facing up, place the tread cover on the floor and use two tire spoons, one at each end of the cover, to pry the ends of the tread cover apart enough to work the cover directly (horizontally, parallel to the floor) over the tread.  A little liquid soap on the tread should help the cover slip over the tread.  When the cover finally does slip over the tread, the upper edge of the tread cover should catch the lip on the tire face cover and hold it tightly.  Now the fun part.  First place some single use plastic bags over the outside of the sidemount well.  Then pick up the tire/wheel/cover assembly by the wheel wires and hold the assembly vertical, but don't try to put the assembly in vertically - it won't go.  Holding the assembly in the air, tilt the assembly toward you at an angle of 15-20 degrees from the vertical. Then you can slide the bottom of the tire into the well without contacting the sidemount well while clearing the mounting shoulder, and then bring the assembly to the vertical to rest the wheel on the mounting shoulder.  Holding the wheel on the shoulder (two guys will come in handy here),  screw the bracket into place to hold the tire/wheel assembly firm.  Remove the plastic bags. Done.

 

Oh, and once the entire assembly is in place, don't EVER remove it.

 

Maybe someone else has a better way, and I would welcome it if they would come forward, but that's the way I did it, and it worked for me.

 

Good Luck,

Bill

[keiser31]

2 hours ago, WHSEWARD said:

Matt, I've been following your travails with a lot of interest and sympathy for some time now, and I hope I can help with your sidemount issue.  I'm not going to tell you the "correct" way to mount your spares, just how I managed (after much swearing and scratched paint trying all sorts of things) to do it.  I have a 34 KA Town Sedan so I HOPE the sidemount covers and mounting shoulders are close enough for this to work.

 

First, let most or all of the air out of the spare (which should be one of the crappiest tires of the correct size that you can find).  Place the tire face cover on the spare.  Then with the covered spare flat on the floor, cover facing up, place the tread cover on the floor and use two tire spoons, one at each end of the cover, to pry the ends of the tread cover apart enough to work the cover directly (horizontally, parallel to the floor) over the tread.  A little liquid soap on the tread should help the cover slip over the tread.  When the cover finally does slip over the tread, the upper edge of the tread cover should catch the lip on the tire face cover and hold it tightly.  Now the fun part.  First place some single use plastic bags over the outside of the sidemount well.  Then pick up the tire/wheel/cover assembly by the wheel wires and hold the assembly vertical, but don't try to put the assembly in vertically - it won't go.  Holding the assembly in the air, tilt the assembly toward you at an angle of 15-20 degrees from the vertical. Then you can slide the bottom of the tire into the well without contacting the sidemount well while clearing the mounting shoulder, and then bring the assembly to the vertical to rest the wheel on the mounting shoulder.  Holding the wheel on the shoulder (two guys will come in handy here),  screw the bracket into place to hold the tire/wheel assembly firm.  Remove the plastic bags. Done.

 

Oh, and once the entire assembly is in place, don't EVER remove it.

 

Maybe someone else has a better way, and I would welcome it if they would come forward, but that's the way I did it, and it worked for me.

 

Good Luck,

Bill

And....don't forget to refill the spare with air or you will be REALLY mad at yourself later if you need it.

[BuickTom87]

This build is incredible, it keeps getting better and better . 

[alsancle]

7 hours ago, WHSEWARD said:

Matt, I've been following your travails with a lot of interest and sympathy for some time now, and I hope I can help with your sidemount issue.  I'm not going to tell you the "correct" way to mount your spares, just how I managed (after much swearing and scratched paint trying all sorts of things) to do it.  I have a 34 KA Town Sedan so I HOPE the sidemount covers and mounting shoulders are close enough for this to work.

 

First, let most or all of the air out of the spare (which should be one of the crappiest tires of the correct size that you can find).  Place the tire face cover on the spare.  Then with the covered spare flat on the floor, cover facing up, place the tread cover on the floor and use two tire spoons, one at each end of the cover, to pry the ends of the tread cover apart enough to work the cover directly (horizontally, parallel to the floor) over the tread.  A little liquid soap on the tread should help the cover slip over the tread.  When the cover finally does slip over the tread, the upper edge of the tread cover should catch the lip on the tire face cover and hold it tightly.  Now the fun part.  First place some single use plastic bags over the outside of the sidemount well.  Then pick up the tire/wheel/cover assembly by the wheel wires and hold the assembly vertical, but don't try to put the assembly in vertically - it won't go.  Holding the assembly in the air, tilt the assembly toward you at an angle of 15-20 degrees from the vertical. Then you can slide the bottom of the tire into the well without contacting the sidemount well while clearing the mounting shoulder, and then bring the assembly to the vertical to rest the wheel on the mounting shoulder.  Holding the wheel on the shoulder (two guys will come in handy here),  screw the bracket into place to hold the tire/wheel assembly firm.  Remove the plastic bags. Done.

 

Oh, and once the entire assembly is in place, don't EVER remove it.

 

Maybe someone else has a better way, and I would welcome it if they would come forward, but that's the way I did it, and it worked for me.

 

Good Luck,

Bill

Bill, what you are saying makes sense to me. Also, reinforces why I don’t like side mount covers if I can avoid them. If you actually have to use a spare tire you are screwed.

[West Peterson]

12 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

So who knows how to install the metal sidemount covers? 

 

Should I try to install the cover on the tire before I put it into the sidemount well? That sounds like a recipe for a lot of damaged paint, but I'm not sure what else can be done.

 

Any advice?

 

YES! They have to be put on with the tire flat on the ground. I lay a blanket on the floor. Similar type with the Packard. I've taken them off and on several times. Never a problem. As mentioned, lay the face plate on the tire, then twist the tread cover over the face. It shouldn't take but a few minutes. I've never used any special tools.

[Matt Harwood]

Well, I didn't get a chance to install the sidemounts or the covers this evening--my wheels are still at the tire shop. I've been detecting a vibration between 30 and 40 MPH and since my usual tire shop couldn't balance the wheels (the center hole is too big for their machine), I found one that could. They've had the wheels for two days, trying to get them right. They called today and said that one was pretty wobbly and could I bring the spares for testing, with the idea being that we'll put the four best wheels on the ground. I'm not too keen on them trying to peel off the ancient spares (and innertubes) but they're confident they can make it work. I trust them so we'll let them do their job. Hopefully all the tires are back tomorrow.

 

In the meantime, Michael has been hard at work getting the car cleaned up and ready for the big Father's Day show this Sunday--it's slated to be showcased in the "Inner Circle" which features Full Classics from 1935-1939. Since Melanie runs the show, I can't rightly let her down, now can I? At any rate, Michael is doing some fantastic work on that 60-year-old paint.

 

Michael is hard at work bringing the shine

up on that paint. It's been banging around

the shop for a few years, so he's got his

work cut out for him!

 

That's one heck of a shine for 60-year-old

paint!

 

I also noticed that there was some gear oil splattered on my right rear wheel, which was curious because I replaced all the rear axle seals about a year ago. I decided to take it apart while it's in the air and the wheels are off. Sure enough, the outer seal was pinched and distorted, probably the source of the leak. I fortunately had some spare felt seals that I had custom made, and used one to create a new outer seal. It was a little tight and there was some muscle involved with getting the snap ring back into place, but I'm pretty confident that I've cured the leak. We'll see...

 

You'll note I'm not thinking about oil pressure. I'm just going to trust that it'll all be OK.

 

[Matt Harwood]

Have I mentioned how downright satisfying my little Audi Ute is? It's the only hobby car I've ever owned that never hassles me, is always ready to go, doesn't need expensive, time-consuming care, it just rocks its job and makes me smile while doing it.

 

Anyway, I went and picked up my tires with the Ute this afternoon. The tire shop did the best they could with the wheels and rotated the tires around to get the best wheels on the ground. Still, their sensitive balancing equipment picked up a few issues, including a bit of a wobble in one of the wheels. I'm not really concerned and we'll see how it rides once I get it fully reassembled. It rode pretty well with no balance weights at all and there were no vibrations above 40 MPH, so anything they did should be an improvement.

 

Just the same, one of the wheels needed A LOT of weight to balance correctly. 

 

 

Ute carried all six tires without issue.

 

LOL!

 

Michael hard at work making it look

like a million bucks. I can't believe that

paint is 60 years old!

 

I spent this evening getting the sidemounts reinstalled, which was not a particularly fun or simple job. I adjusted the brackets on both sides until the tires were hanging in the center of the wells and at the same height--interestingly enough, the Lincoln's sidemounts are adjustable for height. I also used some masking tape to prevent any damage to the wheel well area.

 

  

Adjusted the mounting brackets until the tires

were centered in the wells and sitting at the

same height.

 

Once the brackets were in the right position, I took WHSEWARD and West's advice and assembled the covers on the wheels on the ground, then dropped them into place. It wasn't exactly that easy--the first one I assembled and disassembled and then re-assembled about three times before I was satisfied. There were wires on the bottom of the tread covers like they were being secured to something, but they didn't look OEM. Still, I thought maybe that was a good idea so I deflated the tires, installed the covers, then used some safety wire to tie the ends of the tread covers to each other, pulling them tighter against the tire. When I reinflated the tire, it snugged up a bit, holding the cover firmly in place. Then I lowered them into the wells and secured them with the lug bolts and brackets.

 

Face cover.

 

 

Sidemounts installed.

 

Wheels reinstalled and back on the ground.

That's a pretty good-looking brute.

 

Once it was back on the ground, I decided to check dwell (finally) with my new meter. I bought one that doesn't need any external power so it should work just fine on 6 volts. I connected it to the coil and a ground and sure enough, got a good reading. Unfortunately, dwell on both sets of points was about 48 degrees--considerably longer than the 36 degrees specified in the manual. For the moment, it won't be a problem and I'm glad that the spark is as hot as it's going to get, but eventually the points will burn from the over-saturation of the coil. I'll adjust the gap and make it wider next week. For now, I don't want to risk having the car offline for this weekend, but sometime soon I'll make a correction.

 

Dwell is a little high at 48 degrees 

versus 36 degrees in the shop manual.

Since the Lincoln V12 operates as two

inline-6s, it's easy to check dwell.

 

By the time I was finished, it was getting late, I was exhausted, and light was fading so I didn't take it for a drive to see if anything has improved. Besides, Michael has it so clean I don't want to risk getting it dirty. He'll finish up cleaning and detailing tomorrow, do some touch-ups to the paint chips, and then it'll be ready for the weekend. I feel like I'm finally in the home stretch with just a few things left to do. Then I'll just start driving it and tweaking it to get it as good as I possibly can.

 

 

Edited June 15, 2023 by Matt Harwood (see edit history)

[TexRiv_63]

That car looks fabulous!

[AB-Buff]

Should be 36, make sure you have the switch set for six cylinders.

[AB-Buff]

I was going to write some thing on Dwell, and I thought there has to be a good explanation already written. This one’s pretty decent.
 

https://www.liveabout.com/dwell-and-timing-explained-even-more-4059400

 

[Matt Harwood]

Aaaaannnd done. 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

I didn't drive it this evening simply because the skies looked iffy and Michael put in a lot of long hours--I don't think it'll ever look this good again. It sure cleaned up nicely and I'm absolutely thrilled with the results. We touched up the nicks and chips (our local paint shop was able to match the paint exactly) so it looks like a million bucks. I still want to take the steam cleaner to the upholstery, particularly the driver's seat, as I think it can look a little better than it does. I also my try my hand at stitching up the one or two small splits in the upholstery just to keep them from getting any worse.

 

Kind of frustrating not having a project to do this evening; I really look forward to working in the garage. There are a few big jobs left (fog lights, muffler) and a few little ones (reset point gap, fix interior lights), and, of course, a lot of tuning and testing still to do. It's my plan to drive it daily the rest of the summer, weather permitting. Let's get some miles on it and make it run its best.

 

See you at the Father's Day show!

 

 

Edited June 15, 2023 by Matt Harwood (see edit history)

[ply33]

It is definitely looking like a million bucks!

[BuickTom87]

Wait that paint is 60 years old !!! It looks incredible!!!

[EmTee]

Yay! 

[95Cardinal]

It looks fantastic, Matt!

Enjoy your Father's Day show; you deserve it!

Joe

[38Buick 80C]

Matt, I know that car has fought you tooth and nail and probably still has a few surprises for you, but you should be proud of your efforts. She looks great and I'm sure you will get lots of enjoyment from driving her.

 

All the best my friend,

B

[Laughing Coyote]

Matt, job well done!! Now you get to enjoy it with your family and put some miles on it while making memories. 

[edinmass]

8 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

Aaaaannnd done. 

 

Car looks great. You forgot to remove the extra lights.

 

Aaaaaannnd done………..well not quite. After fifty years I can conclusively say only when you sell it is it “done”. Just saying. 
 

Bravo on the long, hard slog. The finish line on this one was on the dark side of the moon. I suggest a bottle of Crown Royal after the show. Best, Ed 

[1935Packard]

Beautiful!  Congrats.

[dalef62]

Looks great!  Now go enjoy it and have fun at the father's day show!

[edinmass]

I really look forward to working in the garage. There are a few big jobs left (fog lights, muffler) and a few little ones (reset point gap, fix interior lights), and, of course, a lot of tuning and testing still to do. It's my plan to drive it daily the rest of the summer, weather permitting. Let's get some miles on it and make it run its best.

 

 

I'm assuming the fog light project is to toss them in the trash or sell them on Ebay? 

 

Sorry, I can't help myself. 

[HarryLime]

The lights make it look like an ambulance .    

[Jeff Perkins / Mn]

After living through 42 months and 41 pages of this recommissioning saga I am VERY happy for you Matt in that you are now on the road. You are restoration projects hero!

[Matt Harwood]

Sorry guys, fog lights stay. It just looks too plain without them. The headlights are too small to carry that front end by themselves and the off-center license plate just looks weird.

 

[zdillinger]

Congratulations Matt!

[WHSEWARD]

Looks great, Matt!  Now we almost have twins!!

 

 

 

Bill

[John Bloom]

Matt, happy for you.......and your family.  They seem like they are a huge part of this story as well.  I don't think it is coincidence that it has come together with Father's day just "one day and a wakeup" away.  

 

Hoping the updates continue now with more of the emphasis on the driving experiences you have with it (and the occasional minor sorting as those come to your attention as the miles add up).

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Looks great.  Now, does Michael make housecalls??

[wayne sheldon]

2 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

Sorry guys, fog lights stay. It just looks too plain without them. The headlights are too small to carry that front end by themselves and the off-center license plate just looks weird.

 

 

I hate to say this, but I like it better without the fog lamps. However, I never was much of a fan for them on any car.

 

Seriously. This entire saga is likened to some of the great Greek tales of Homer. Winds blowing off course to inhospitable lands, monsters and evil warlords around every turn! Like Odysseus, you stood tall, fought onward. Now, finally, hopefully, homeward bound.

 

I hope for many years of great pleasures and rewards with the car.

[edinmass]

It’s his car and he has the absolute right to ruin it with the extra lights, it is after all America🫣…….where the owner gets what he wants. Well, at least in 1937, today not so much. 
 

Obviously all in god fun Matt. 
 

I would probably only run a rear plate and remove the front bracket.

Edited June 16, 2023 by edinmass (see edit history)

[alsancle]

17 minutes ago, edinmass said:

It’s his car and he has the absolute right to ruin it with the extra lights, it is after all America🫣…….where the owner gets what he wants. Well, at least in 1937, today not so much. 
 

Obviously all in god fun Matt. 
 

I would probably only run a rear plate and remove the front bracket.

He got the tires right. So I will forgive him on the lights. Plus, those can disappear when he turns his back…

[MCHinson]

If it was my car, which it isn't, I would probaby remove the front license plate bracket (although I undersand the advertising purpose that it currently serves). I would keep the fog lights, but I would turn the brackets differently. I would turn the brackets so they point straight to the front which would move the lights outward so they don't hide as much of the radiator shell. If the license plate frame were removed, you could swivel them outward rather than inward. Either straight ahead or brackets outward would look better than they do with the brackets pointed inward. I typically like fog lights on similar cars but think that without the fog lights actually looks better than with the current fog light bracket orientation. 

 

I guess it is really a good sign that this car is now in the condition that we can "argue" about fog light bracket orientation/fog lights/no fog lights. Enjoy your time at the father's day show.

[EmTee]

30 minutes ago, MCHinson said:

I guess it is really a good sign that this car is now in the condition that we can "argue" about fog light bracket orientation/fog lights/no fog lights.

That's an excellent point! 

[Dave Gelinas (XP-300)]

Stunning.

 

[BuickTom87]

The body lines on this car just have me …. Wow