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Grimy last won the day on June 7 2018

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  1. Ed, please do NOT post a photo of your third thumb.... Congratulations, John!!!
  2. Fully 25 years ago (I'm sure I'm not recalling everything accurately), I had babbitt let go on one of the rod bearings on my 1936 Pierce 8, the others were marginal at best, but the mains (9) were fine. I had all rods redone, thankfully the journals were perfect. When I first started the engine, the oil pressure was very low. I disassembled the oil pump (clean) but found the relief spring questionably strong, as did a far more knowledgeable friend (sadly, no longer with us). Presumably, some previous owner had changed to a stiffer spring to compensate for low oil pressure due to failing rod bearings. On my friend's advice, I visited three hardware stores and bought examples of 3/8" diameter springs of varying rates/tensions. I cooked them all on a pie sheet at 450* to heat treat them. Then it was time for trial-and-error testing. I installed only 8 of the maybe-30 pan bolts and added only 6 rather than 9 quarts of oil. The first spring gave far too little pressure. Dropped the pan and tried spring #2. In the garage oil pressure with that spring seemed very good, but the spec was at 35 psi hot at 40 mph as I recall. So I added another 12 bolts (still not all) and another quart of oil and went for a 30-minute drive including some highway time. Oil pressure was on spec after 30 minutes on a warm summer day, so I replaced the remaining pan bolts, topped off the oil, and had a celebratory beer.
  3. AND....although I use, love and recommend Olson's gaskets, it has been my experience that any modern repro gasket using some form of plastic instead of asbestos must be torqued up to SIX times before the job is done. Do any torquing with the engine cool, preferably overnight. And 55 lbs is the most that I'd use on a Pierce engine of the period, but go by what @edinmasssays. I agree that vacuum tank, unassisted, is the way to go. In the meantime, until you have all the vac tank parts, use a Holley #12-804 pressure regulator (1-to-4 psi) dialed down to 1 pound and placed as close to the carb as possible. Those regulators are often on the shelf at performance parts stores and will set you back $65-70. The "Purolator" chinesium $20 regulator in blister packs at Wallyworld are a fire waiting to happen.
  4. This may be too far in the future for you, but the PAS Annual Meet for 2022 is in Buellton, CA (central CA), approx June 20-24.
  5. I name my cars, except for the 1922 Paige, but its time is coming.... The 1918 Pierce is Colonel Clifton, named after the grand old man of the Pierce-Arrow Motor Car Company and president of the company when this car was built. There's an excellent biography of COL Clifton the human by retired PAS editor Roger Sherman. The 1930 Pierce roadster is Isadora (after Isadora Duncan the dancer) because scarves are de rigeur for female passengers and Ms. Duncan famously met her demise when her long scarf got caught in the knock-off hub of an Amilcar. The 1925 Pierce Series 80 sedan is Humphrey (came with that name from the PO who had him from 1956 to 1994). Similarly, the 1934 "production" Silver Arrow coupe was named Archie (for the archer hood mascot) by the PO. The 1936 Pierce sedan is The Princess, although she is a heavy girl. More prosaically, the 1948 Jeepster is Willy. And I had the first of two DeSoto Suburbans in college, and my friends referred to it as The Green Latrine.
  6. That center screw is a potential "oh shxt" moment--make sure your screwdriver is thoroughly magnetized....
  7. The hand throttle on these is one of two levers on the steering wheel hub; the other is the light switch.
  8. Ed, with respect, I think you're imposing your personal taste on others. Just because YOU don't have a pre-1921 Series 38, 48 or 66, or Series 80/81 for that matter, doesn't mean they are bad cars--the pre-1921s are just the opposite IMHO. I don't care for 836As myself but they (and 80s/81s for that matter--and I have one 80 now and had two of them at the same time for 21 years) are attractive to others, if for no other reason than as entry-level Pierces. You can have just as much fun in an 80 or 836A! That said, my 1918 48-B-5 dual valve affords me More Smiles per Mile than any other car I've ever owned. For both of us: opinions are like belly buttons or certain other body parts--everybody has one.
  9. Don't you have clear hoses to the top tank of the radiator? Can you see if a sufficient volume of water is actually being pushed into the top tank and circulating?
  10. Agree with you on the T, but a few posts ago you seemed to be saying that the 836A should be broken up for parts. That's always been our differing viewpoints: I've maintained that substantially imperfect cars can be driven and enjoyed as part of the hobby, whereas you seem to be repeatedly saying that a substantially imperfect car that may not currently be worth the cost of a full restoration (i.e., bad ROI) should --virtually automatically -- be broken up for parts. I was surprised and pleased to see you say, for once, that this one can be used and enjoyed for what it is. (edit) It's not about the dollars....
  11. That's a first from you, Ed! Are some of us finally getting through?
  12. Or on the right side. What's that behind the oil fill? A float-type oil quantity gauge? The 8A-9A-10A had the plate on the side of the aluminum crankcase near the front of the engine near the oil fill.
  13. Matt, my experience with reproduction head gaskets with some form of plastic replacing the asbestos is that we need to re-torque 4 or 5 or even 6 times. Count your blessings: aren't you glad to used the test stand? Hang in there, the joy of driving this thing will be extra sweet!
  14. I get it! You were born March 15, 1933!! You're 'way older than I am!
  15. Kurt, a friend of mine in the Pierce-Arrow Society (PAS) broke an axle in his 1930 Pierce. The 1929-30 8-spline axles are prone to breakage. He had a run of EIGHT axles made by the following company, keeping two for himself (good idea to replace the "good" one as well) and sold off the remainder at $500 each. I think you'd need to do a run of about that number to reduce the individual cost to $500. Now this was 5 years ago, so prices probably have gone up. Edinmass may be able to get you specifics on L to R differences (if any) and what other Cad/LaS models may use the same axle. I'd send them the good axle on the other side. Following is what my friend told us buyers: LANGILL'S GENERAL MACHINE, INC., Sacramento, CA. They are a major machine shop with modern and traditional equipment. They do large scale production runs and boutique custom work. They have been building axles for our members of the Horseless Carriage Club of Nevada over several years with satisfactory results. You can check them out at: http://langills.com The material is 4340 quenched & tempered stress relieved. They are heat treated to 28-32 Rc hardness resulting in parts that have a tensile strength of 150,000 PSI and a yield of 140,000 PSI
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