Grimy

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Grimy last won the day on June 7 2018

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  1. Neil, over 40 years ago I painted the firewall-mounted factory heater on my 1939 Cad--which now lives two blocks away--with a rattle can whose color was named "Brown Cow"--a perfect match to the oirginal Since I never throw anything away (as you can attest, having seen my shop), I probably still have the end of the can and can give you the brand.
  2. Carl, there were two of them. You are referring to the 1922 or 1923 Series 33, but the same eccentric owner had a 1929 limo as well. They were parked along the GG Park panhandle, either Fell (westbound) or Oak (eastbound). I saw them in the late 1950s, so they must have been pretty decrepit with their soft inset tops by the 70s.
  3. Belairbob50, thanks for the photos--they brought back happy memories. In Dec 1963, while in college, I bought a garage-kept 1934 CA 4-door like yours (but factory sh8t-brindle brown, with blackwalls, for $75 because the fuel pump was inop. I found a rebuilt pump within a day for the huge sum of $2. I drove the car, principally on AACA regional tours, for 2-1/2 years and then authorized my family to sell it while I was in Vietnam. It was a fun driver! I always lusted after a CB brougham or a CA convertible coupe (a friend had one of the latter).
  4. I agree that you should not coat (heating and cooling cycles will break it loose) but I would treat the inside with Ospho or similar, THEN be sure to use a good anti-corrosion additive.
  5. What Matt said! Make a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF in a shallow pan and immerse the cable for a couple of days, then dry it off and apply PB Blaster or similar, but keep that acetone mix away from the plastic knob. Once the cable BEGINS to move within the sheath, you're more than half-way home.
  6. Greg, I neglected to say that the 2014 Weis Award winner is a RUNABOUT (roadster) with disc wheels. Photo attached. An 80 cannot compare with a Lotus 🙂 but it does have a sheet aluminum body; steel components are fenders, hood, cowl, and splash aprons. The 4-wheel mechanical brakes on an 80 are the same components used on the senior Series 33/36 which are almost 1,000 lbs heavier (body style for body style), and they stop VERY well IF adjusted as per the book. Crankcase and trans case are cast aluminum. Sedans and coaches may initially feel a bit top heavy, especially if you're accustomed to open cars. I've gone down some seriously long and steep grades in my 80 sedan and never had a problem. Published weight for a S80 sedan is about 3,700 lbs. Beware of EDLs (Enclosed Drive Limos) is you are taller than 5'6" because sedan front seats are fixed and the chauffeur loses legroom in 7-passenger models. Do you know Jay Gallagher in the Kamloops area? He has a 1927 80 runabout that he tours VERY extensively, and I'm sure he would help you find and evaluate a suitable car.
  7. Greg, a very presentable and tourable Series 80 sedan or coach can be had for $25K or less--and if you find one needing refreshing and not having been run in awhile, under $20K. Other bodies, such as the 4-passenger coupe I sold 3 years ago and any open body styles, are substantially higher. 80s do come on the market regularly, especially within the Club. A 2014 Weis Award winner (=Best of Show at annual meet) sold for less than $70K. For touring, I recommend a Mitchell overdrive for non-competitive 80s--makes it a different car entirely! I put one in my sedan which has the deepest factory diff at 4.88 and now it cruises comfortably at 50 (previously comfortable at 36-37, screaming at 40-41).
  8. Greg, I'll quibble about everything except opportunity to drive (extensively). Pierce-Arrow Society (PAS) has superb tech support and there are numerous reproduction parts available. I've never owned a Franklin, but owners tell me the same about their club. As to price differentials between open vs. closed cars, look at cars from the late 1950s and 1960s which seems (to me) to have a greater open vs. closed price differential. We have to seek opportunities to tour, true. Last month we had 40 nickel cars (eligibility through 1932) on a 5-day tour out of Minden, NV, run by the Nickel Era Touring Registry (NETR) of HCCA. We had everything from Model Ts to (five) Pierces, with no hidden hierarchy of marques--just car folks having fun. It was cold and rainy much of the time. Here's a photo of the 1918 Pierce climbing Kingsbury Grade (7,500 ft summit) thru snow flurries to Lake Tahoe (elev. 6250 ft). We did a loop of the lake, where the day's high was 42*F. NETR does one tour a year: 2017 in Calif Gold Country, 2018 on WA's Olympic Peninsula, 2020 out of Moscow ID. I'm also a member (and permanent secretary) of another Nickel Club in central Calif which does two tours per year.
  9. I don't think I've argued otherwise (super-premium cars excluded, of course). When negotiating for a specific car, present a list of recent comparable auction sales, with links, if possible. Because most auction results are fee-inclusive (say 10% buyer premium and 10% seller fee), calculate the NET the consignor received. Creating a spreadsheet, I used that technique four years ago when negotiating my most recent purchase, a car I'd been after since 1998. I make a point of not running down a car's condition, to avoid offending the owner. I will say that for my proposed usage, I'd have to replace the tires, go through the brakes (and whatever else) at a cost of approximately $nnn, and that limits what I am *able* to pay for the car as is. If one is interested in a specific marque, join that marque-specific club, because often long-held cars (vs.flipped) are offered FIRST within the club prior to mass marketing. Franklins and Pierce-Arrows are great examples of this. Especially in single-marque clubs, people aging out of the hobby are often looking for the Optimal Next Custodian for a long-held, long-enjoyed car, and may be willing to give such a person a break on the price. I have both given and received such consideration. How you present yourself (will you be that "Optimal Next Custodian"?) is definitely a factor in buying a long-held car.
  10. Certainly there are no guarantees of value appreciation, especially when one factors in inflation (sellers of long-held cars never mention that to their families). At the time of the 1968 and 1971 failed purchases, I was making a bit less than $10K per year as an Army captain. This thread has also addressed that this is one of very few hobbies in which one may expect to PERHAPS break even or have a relatively minor loss after years of enjoyment. My comment was (1) many pre-war cars HAVE sold during his year of searching, and (2) what, other than recently completed sales. can be the arbiter of what's too much to pay or too little to sell for AT THE TIME? This thread has also had discussion of current restoration costs being unretrievable in the short-term.
  11. Well, thank you for your service to us greedy old guys. You sure showed us--you bought a newer car instead of an overpriced pre-war car. Do I hear "nya, nya, nya"? Now I'll depart from sarcasm (mostly). You may be failing to count all the pre-war cars offered and which DID SELL during your year of research; you seem to only see those which did not. I certainly agree that some cars, of whichever age, do not sell for the reasons you mention. Stick around and buy them after we croak and our heirs just want them off the property. Did you include estate auctions in your research? The "worth" is what something actually sells for from a willing seller to a willing buyer, just as you said. What you're accusing people of is not being a Willing Seller by not accepting a price that YOU are willing to pay.. I've been in the hobby over 50 years and have missed some wonderful opportunities because I either didn't have the cash (1938 Lincoln Zephyr conv sedan, #3 condition, $650, in 1965) or due to objections of a then-wife (1939 Cad 75 conv coupe, #3 condition, one of 27 built, $2500 in 1968; 1964 Porsche Super Carrera twin cam from orig owner, 45K impeccable garage-kept miles with new engine [owner lost an external oil line at speed], $2500 in 1971). My principle over the years has been, assuming that I have the cash and available storage, I'll spend a bit more than current market to acquire a special car that will be a long term hold. If you want an open Cadillac V-16 or an open Packard V-12, you're gonna have to cough up some serious change, but if you want to get into a CCCA-eligible car relatively inexpensively, look at CLOSED Lincoln Ls and Ks, or Pierce 80-81. If keeping up with modern traffic is a priority, then you'll want a car with factory overdrive from the mid to late 1930s, including MoPaR, Studebaker and Nash. Once you have decided what features you want, apply market aspects to your price range, and make offers. Uh, I'm already awake, thank you.
  12. Disconnect the cable from the lever. Manually work the lever to its two extremes (in & out of OD) and mark each such location to its surroundings with chalk or tape or whatever. The cable must be adjusted so that each extreme of the lever can be reached with the knob from inside the car. You probably should lube the sliding portion of the shaft just behind the knob, if you have not already done so.
  13. Does the horn go "MOO!"??
  14. As Matt says... Common problem when OD or Free Wheeling has not been used in quite some time. My technique is to spray PB Blaster on the spiral wound sheath, a few inches at a time, backed up with frequently-changed paper towels to minimize overspray. This will require jacking up the front end. Try to avoid doing the cable portion inside the car at first, but if you have to, protect the carpet and upholstery. Test by working the cable in and out, expecting just a little movement at first. Repeat as necessary until the wire is free within the sheath.
  15. No worries, Carl, that's a very, very minor irritation in the greater scheme of things. "Don't Call It Frisco" is also the title of an iconic book by the late Herb Caen, inveterate SF Chronicler (pun intended) of movers, shakers, and little people in the City by the Bay. I was and am an East Bay kiddo but commuted to HS in SF--so long ago that I rode the Key System trains on the bottom deck of the Bay Bridge. Over a 25-year period--but not the last 10 years, friends in Piedmont with a Victorian home hosted an annual Earthquake Party on April 18, with arrival time at 0445. A Bentley Speed Six had driveway honors. At 0512, a red ribbon attached to the living room chandelier was tugged, we all looked at period books opened to photos of the destruction, and hoisted glasses of champagne in toasts who those who perished and those who survived. Meanwhile, the Clark Gable film "Barbary Coast" was playing on a VCR. We then repaired to the back yard for flapjacks, more champagne, and watching the large scale model trains make a circuit of the yard. On weekdays, some of us even made it to work, if a bit tardy.