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Grimy

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Grimy last won the day on June 7 2018

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  1. Let me add my teeth-grinder: people who abbreviate "cylinder" as "cly," e.g., a "6-cly" DeSoto. CLY-inder????
  2. I've found that marine shut off valves these days have diaphragms that are adversely affected by ethanol. I look at swap meets for vintage ones that have no diaphragms, simply brass cup-and-cone construction--they seem to last indefinitely or until the mating parts become eroded.
  3. 10W-40 will be fine--you need a multigrade. Hesitation on acceleration: Look for info on how (whether) you can adjust the accelerator pump, sounds like it should be a step richer. I'd put a vacuum gauge on a warmed up engine as next diagnostic step--but do you have a vacuum port? usually we put gauge on vacuum wipers source. Next is distributor: Is the vacuum advance working, and its hose intact (not leaking)? Point gap to spec?
  4. Yes, radiator end is #1. If it were mine, I'd just drive it and have fun with it. I would add a good carb/fuel injection cleaner, in a slightly rich mix (maybe 25% richer than the label suggests) to the fuel tank before topping off. 10W-30 or 15W-40 oil, changed HOT, once a year irrespective of mileage. Consistent driving fresh motor oil may loosen up the valves and rings. For a flathead, those numbers are just fine IMHO, especially if #2 improves after the recommended treatments (give it a year under your use). Sucking and popping--don't worry about it. Snug up (do NOT lean hard on wrench) carb mounting nuts and manifold nuts as a matter of general principles.
  5. Definitely Pierce. Interesting that the water outlet is on the right side, which means not for 48 hp 1916-20, whose water pumps are on the left side of the engine. What's the diameter of the upper neck?
  6. 5 qts for sure, then check dipstick. Someone MAY have used the tug's oil pan when they installed the Dodge engine, perhaps for clearance reasons. If so, and if the pans are different, let's hope they used the tug engine's dipstick.
  7. If it has been leaking despite a new gasket, surface (plane) the stat housing, as it's important to have two parallel surfaces. If the stat housing is cast iron or cast aluminum, fill any remaining pits with JB Weld or similar, and smooth them out. If the mounting fasteners are studs in the head, be sure to clean the circumference of the studs where they emerge from the head, using a dental pick. If it has been leaking (apparently so) and the surfaces are irregular, use/make a thicker gasket, maybe as much as 5/32", coated with gasket dope (I prefer ol' reliable Permatex #2) on both sides. Tighten evenly, alternating between/among the fasteners. Am I missing something here?
  8. Is there something unique about the mating surfaces on that car? Photos or at least a more detailed explanation would help us help you. Usually a gasket, even a thicker-than-normal one, would suffice for a stat housing bolted to an L-head. Uneven/corroded surfaces?
  9. That square Westinghouse generator and distributor on its rear end serving the intake side plugs says 1916-1918 to me. Many components have the engine number (same as chassis number) stamped into them, so those numbers would be helpful.
  10. The lessons learned the hardest are the lessons learned the best! 🙂
  11. The wire hose clamps aren't very good at *initial* sealing, so when installing new hose I put a pair of wire hose clamps in the center of the new hose section, snugged just enough so they don't flop around, then use modern worm gear clamps as shown on the ends. After 20 or 30 heating-cooling cycles, the new hoses are more or less bonded, so one at a time, unscrew completely and remove a worm gear clamp and slide the wire clamp down and secure it. My experience is that it's well nigh impossible to get a wire clamp started on the car once it's been pulled apart.
  12. And that may well be the cause of inadequate fuel supply....
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