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Grimy last won the day on June 7

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About Grimy

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  1. Grimy

    Driveshaft balancing on a 1936 Dodge d2

    What's the compression on #6?
  2. Grimy

    Engine Analyzer for 6 volt systems...

    And the 12V battery need NOT be a big honking starting battery: I use a sealed gel cell or AGM gate opening / home security alarm backup battery which I also use to power my 2007-vintage Garmin GPS in my 6V cars. (Yeah, I know, I should use my smart phone as GPS, but its screen is smaller.)
  3. Grimy

    1949 Chrysler windsor

    Were the plug wires replaced in the correct rotation (clockwise vs. counterclockwise)? I'm not near my reference material, but your manual (you do have one, right?) will tell you the direction of rotation--or have someone crank it while you watch which way the rotor turns.
  4. Grimy

    broken distributor cap

    You can TRY to glue it back together, but I'd lay another cap in, and use this repaired one as a spare. For the internal cracks/repair lines, you need to seal them. I've had good luck with cracked rare caps, again on the inside, by opening the crack with a dental pick, Dremel-drilling each end of crack or repair to stop propagation, then laying on five coats, one day apart, of epoxy fingernail polish (color not important on the inside).
  5. Grimy

    1923 Head removal

    Will try that next time! But the shellac, which I didn't know about until the head finally came off, covered the entire head and deck surfaces, so it would likely need heat all over the head, not just the perimeter. What happened, so far as I can tell, is that the asbestos center separated, leaving the copper glued to the head and deck. I didn't know about the Indian Head sealer until the head finally came off. That's serious stuff--I have used it to secure lower radiator hoses on corroded/eroded water pump necks which then have to be cut off the pump.
  6. Grimy

    1923 Head removal

    A previous owner may have re-used a head gasket, doping it with Indian Head Gasket Shellac (hope not--that was the case on my 1922 Paige as described below), AND/OR there may be corrosion on the studs where they pass through the cylinder head. For the latter, dose the studs liberally with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, and tap them (with nuts on loosely) to aid penetration. What I wound up doing on my Paige was to make a lifting apparatus (bases of two old take-apart spark plugs with eye-bolts through them) attached to a screw-type engine lifting/tilting device, in turn hooked to a cherry picker engine hoist. In my case, the car hung from the cherry picker, with wheels off the ground one inch, for four days before the gasket parted and let go (I was doing something else and the noise startled the hell out of me). The head was kept in position on the studs. I spent four hours cleaning the block deck and the head of the copper which had been, in effect, super-glued by the shellac and heat.
  7. Grimy

    Upside-down fuel sediment bowl???

    The bowl-on-top fuel pump for Cadillac flathead V8s was specified as a service replacement in 1943 due to vapor lock issues with the original configuration. AFAIK, all 1946-48 Cads had bowl-on-top. This is from a oft-reprinted 1944/45 Cadillac publication. Can't give you the science but it worked fine for me.
  8. Grimy

    Demountable Rims

    Most original equipment lug nut wrenches were very short (4-5 inches) for the reason Cadillac Carl mentions. As to torque, about 25-30. I include a rubber mallet with my tire changing tools to "assist" full seating the rims on the felloes. Build-up of paint on both rims and felloes will make this difficult. I use a reference point like a tool box or a piece of 4x4 lumber at 6 o'clock and rotate the wheel while tightening the nuts to minimize runout. And check the tightness periodically, such as every 200-300 miles, less frequently after you're no longer able to make the wrench move.
  9. Grimy

    Unique GM Ignition

    YES! I seem to recall this feature on a high school friend's 1949 Chev--over 50 years ago!
  10. Grimy

    1935 Super Charged Auburn

    John, I agree with the HD scissors jack plus socket-extension-breaker bar, but I add a bottle jack, 15" square piece of board or 3/4" plywood as base, 2-foot-long screwdriver for levering the 70-80-lb spare wheel and tire from the 6 o'clock position to the studs or bolt holes, and a CCCA soft-plastic hubcap removal tool. Had a flat on the 1934 Pierce at 106*F in the Mojave desert returning from the 2009 Pierce meet. Had it changed in 12 minutes.... Even if I could have raised AAA in that no-cell-service zone, I wouldn't have wanted to wait for the truck. Besides, if you have the equipment, you will very rarely need it!
  11. Those Pines Winterfronts, often with a marque-specific emblem at the top center, operated as radiator shutters--before shutters and effective thermostats were available. The Pines units have their own t'stats. I found one NOS (but with shelf wear and crumbling cardboard carton) for my Pierce Series 80 at Hershey about 1998. Due to my climate, the Pines is a wall hanger but to me at least a most interesting one. Pierces 1929-38 have built-in vertical shutters controlled by Sylphon-style t'stats set into the top tanks of the radiators.
  12. Grimy

    Fuel lines and fittings.

    Ed correctly points out the distinction between show cars for heavy venues such as Pebble and Amelia, and those done for regional concours/shows and--dare I say--actual DRIVING. I had my one moment in the sun at Pebble in 2010 and installed NOS vintage plugs for that event ONLY then returned to Autolite 3076 as more reliable for driving. In those venues, Ed is absolutely correct that every detail has value for judging, where virtually every restored car has been done to a very high standard. On the other hand, in my dotage I am much more interested in driving these cars (1,500 miles on my 100-year-old car in four weeks on three tours this year) and often say "I'll let the guy who buys it from my estate re-restore it."
  13. Grimy

    1920's Headlamps Please Help

    Pierce-Arrow, for one manufacturer, used B&L lenses like these 1921-28 for their fender-mounted headlamps, but they also offered conventional headlamps as an option. For P-A at least, the "STAR" was used only 1926-28. I suspect, but do not know for certain, that the STAR designation indicated some improvement in the lens. Critical information for identification is the actual OD of the lens. Here's a quick reference guide: 1921 Series 32 9-1/4" 1922-25 Series 33 9-1/4" late 1924-25 Series 80 8-3/8" 1926 Series 33 9-1/4" STAR 1926-27 Series 80 8-3/8" STAR 1927-28 Series 36 9-1/4" STAR 1928 Series 81 8-1/8 ALL P-A CARS 1926-thru-1928 used B & L STAR lenses---that have a flat center panel --and the "star" logo at the bottom
  14. Grimy

    1910 Durack.

    Perhaps a DARRACQ, spelled differently? We definitely need a couple of photos....
  15. I've posted these before on another thread, but here is visual evidence of what happens when non-detergent oil is used and the car sits a long time. These are "crank turds" being pushed from crankshaft oil passages during a rebuild. How much oil was actually going through these oil passages? So cleaning out the oil pan and oil pump is not enough--one must check and clean the oil passages in the crankshaft and its sludge traps if so equipped.