Grimy

Members
  • Content Count

    1,955
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Grimy last won the day on June 7 2018

Grimy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

852 Excellent

About Grimy

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    San Francisco Bay Area

Recent Profile Visitors

4,180 profile views
  1. I agree, but with the caveat that hydraulic brakes do give a crisper finish to your stop than mechanical brakes. On the other hand, with hydraulic brakes especially on multiple cars one must track the "last flush" frequency and inspect for leaks in five places at every lube job.
  2. Wayne, that car is now in very capable hands in Arroyo Grande. I drove it for a few minutes a year ago, after adjusting the carb. You can see it again at the *2021* PAS Meet in Buellton, CA in the latter part of June, 2021. Stay in touch, please!
  3. Nitpick du jour: Don, that would be a 1933 or earlier, because for 1934 the radiator filler was moved under the hood. The archer for 1934-38 is bolted to the radiator shell, with minimal clearance to the radiator top tank, and it takes about 20 minutes with a flat wrench to extract one. Much less time if you're Ed...... 🙂
  4. The delay in going to 4-wheel braking was the wait for development of a system whereby, during braking on a curve, the outside wheel could continue to turn while the inside wheel turned less, but with both front wheels still braking. Pierce licensed the Hispano-Suiza system and implemented it mid-1924. Of course this was for mechanical brakes.
  5. I agree. Our actual stopping power comes from the gross area of the patches of rubber on the road which are actually attempting to stop--vs. roll. Four-wheel brakes immediately double the stopping power. Additionally, the move to 4-wheel brakes came almost simultaneously with balloon tires replacing high pressure tires, with the additional footprint of each wheel on the road.
  6. Grimy

    Head gasket sealer

    With respect, Tom, I still use copper spray with NORS asbestos-center gaskets on the theory that OEM manufacturers' recommendations were for virtually new (by today's standards) heads and decks. Fifty to ninety years later, there are likely imperfections in those heads and/or decks which can often addressed successfully by use of this additional sealant. YMMV.... 🙂
  7. Grimy

    Head gasket sealer

    I agree with Ed and his recommendation of aerosol copper. I want to point out that in my experience a vintage copper-asbestos-copper gasket usually needs only one re-torque (do it cold on prewar cars), but the reproduction sandwich gaskets with some form of plastic rather than asbestos require multiple re-torques, perhaps as many as five, before that material finally takes its permanent "set." And likewise on your manifold gasket for an inline 8, although I just "snug" manifold fasteners on inline 8s because they must move a bit to keep from breaking.
  8. On 2-wheel brake cars, it's often necessary to slow the car with the service (foot) brake, and to complete the stop using the hand brake. (on some cars, those connections are reversed, i.e., foot brake operates external brakes, hand brake operates internal brakes.) On my 1918 Pierce, the hand brake operates the external contracting bands and is about 3 times as powerful as the internal expanding foot brakes. Avoid locking up the wheels (it's too easy to do so), because then you've lost almost all control.
  9. Ben, you may need to lube u-joints and clutch blocks (cone clutch) more frequently than 1,000 miles. I maintain a 400-mile schedule on those. I keep zerks permanently in those locations, which you can't see without completely crawling under the car.
  10. Ben, that's a great story about your early experience with a corn planter! Glad you emerged unscathed! Greasing: Excellent news that the car had been accurately restored! That makes greasing much easier. Now you need only to confirm that grease is going all the way through. To do this, one at a time, remove grease cup, insert zerk, apply grease until it oozes out on the other end (no seals to compromise!), then put the cup back. Then you're good for about 1,000 miles--rather than having to turn each grease cup each day of operation. Some of the Model T suppliers offer grease cups with hidden zerks inside the covers, which would save a lot of time if you intend to drive the car much. For those of us used to 1930s and even 1920s cars, the lubrication needs of a teens car are astounding, and we can readily understand how much progress was being made in a few short years--almost akin to computer development decades later. Because I drive my 1918 a lot, I'm willing to make a few compromises to preserve the components. I'm still working on a some partially clogged joints, so there are a few zerks still in place until I'm satisfied. Not planning on showing it at Pebble... 🙂 Tires: Modern repro tires should not get the pressure specified in the OM, as the tire construction is vastly different. For high-pressure tires, use far less than the OM as I suggested. For balloon tires (mid-1920s forward), try substantially more--I run 40-42 in my 1925, 1930, 1934, and 1936 Pierces. If your tires are old, they may be the source of problems: a good friend recently bought an early-1930s show car restored in 1983 with less than 200 miles on it since then, and the tires were hard as rocks with the resultant ride and were out of round so much he thought he had one or more bent wheels. A set of (very expensive) double whitewalls cured all those problems. Enjoy the experience!!!!
  11. What pressure were you running in the tires? Try 45 in front and 50 rear, or 40 and 45. Bloo is right, as usual: (1) grease everything, and (2) springs are suspect, including their bushings. Unscrew all your chassis grease cups and put in modern zerks for now. While the grease cups are out, use a dental pick to extract dried grease. If you use either 2-pin Alemites (recommended) or zerks for final use, note any points which will not take grease. I have a 20-yr-old Eastwood tool for unclogging grease joints--essentially a small hydraulic ram that you fill with ATF as a solvent, insert onto a zerk, and use a BFH to jam in some ATF to soften the hardened grease. Drive it 50 miles, rinse, repeat until you can get grease all the way through. Except water pump, of course--NO pressure ever on water pump. I believe the Alemite 2-pin fittings weren't available until about 1919 on anything, but hitting a clean joint with Alemite + hand-held grease gun will last up to 1,000 miles, whereas virtually every grease cup was supposed to be turned EVERY DAY you use the car. Look for a way to oil the tie rod ends and drag link / reach rod. Some drag links have a small screw (#8?) on top of the joint that you remove, then squirt in oil, replace screw. CAREFULLY read and commit to memory the lubrication portion of the Owner's Manual. You will have a LOT to do....
  12. Ed, that's all Eric's and Billy's work which has lasted very well over 19 years....especially Billy's body and paint work.
  13. Oh yes! But I'll keep my 1930 roadster a little longer. I had it at Ironstone tour and concours last weekend plus 500 miles earlier this summer
  14. Yes, I bought the 16-inch radial light truck tubes from the Big O dealer from whom I buy my modern vehicle tires (half the price of the off-shore "repro" tubes, by the way), and I did not use period-correct stems, although I wish I had, because Pierce used plated valve stem covers through 1935. Too late now... 🙂 The 17" Pierce wheels are drop-center (if I used a rim strip, I'd have to use 15-inch), allowing the 16" tubes to swell slightly to fit. No problems in may miles since...
  15. and 1922 Paige....but the subject has additional holes