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Grimy last won the day on June 7 2018

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  1. You gave me an increased heart rate for only about 5 seconds, Michael! I'm between tours today only, with 'way too much to do 🙂
  2. John, unfortunately I am in a major time crunch preparing for two weeks of travel for tours beginning Sunday, which is why I tagged Walt in the hope that he will be able to post a link or re-post his insights. As the depression deepened a year or more after the stock market crash of October 1929 (my mother was a young margin clerk at the SF Stock Exchange that day and had some incredible stories), the national mood grew much more somber--as did the colors of new automobiles. For 1930 ONLY, Pierce-Arrow used actual photographs of cars in their prestige catalog dated 1/1/30, and the colors are all muted, even on the sportier models. I also have a 1929 Pierce color combination book showing available 3-color combinations (including moldings and stripes) and all these combinations are quite conservative as would befit their clientele. I also point out the longstanding tendency of auto dealerships to feature, in the most visible location in their displays, their sportiest model in bright colors, for the purpose of the Shiny Object bringing potential customers in a for a look before buying a more staid body style. The catalogs' artwork in saturated colors was by no means representative of the colors actually purchased by the vast majority of the dwindling customer base, or even available except by special order. As you certainly have surmised by now, I have disdain for ca. 1930 cars repainted in "Flight-of-Fancy" or "Artist's Wet Dr**m" colors to replicate the colors in period advertising.
  3. @John_S_in_Pennaabout 20 years ago, often seen at our local Hillsborough Concours (has existed a year longer than Pebble Beach) was a 1930 Packard SWB phaeton painted in three shades of purple to match a color magazine ad, framed and displayed with the car. I'm quite sure no such paint job ever left the Packard factory! @Walt Grecently posted an erudite explanation of the vivid colors used in magazine adverts ca. 1927-30. The story I always heard (I wasn't there, either, although I'm often accused of it) was that technological developments in the printing industry in the 1920s led to saturated-color ads becoming far less expensive than they had been a few years before. Look at the Lincoln ads featuring exotic colorful birds--but the car colors seemed, to me at least, less intense.
  4. Yes, but bright colors were used on "sport" models, not on closed cars except for rare special orders (not many rap artists in those days). Seeing red-red on a 1920s sedan sets my teeth on edge; maroon, on the other hand, was widely used on closed cars.
  5. Was your head gasket one of the repro ones with plastic in the middle rather than asbestos? If so, I find that I have to retorque 3 or 4 or 5 times before the plastic finally is compressed enough. I always torque a COLD engine, repeating a day or two apart after a decent local run.
  6. Orrin, I missed the Piedmont car show yesterday although I was less than a mile away clearing out a hoarder house. We have to get you in on the Piedmont July 4 parade next year (none in 2020 or 2021 due to COVID concerns) and the post-parade HCCA BBQ.
  7. Shutter thermostat can be killed by sticky shutter pieces at the pivot points, top and bottom--ask me how I know. There's a strong spring on the linkage trying to keep the shutters closed. For anyone getting shutters rechromed on later cars, keep the pivot pins from being plated or they will be a problem. To test a shutter t'stat, remove and test in a pot of water on the stove. Massage a wire coat hanger to run thru the mounting holes and over the top of the pot so that the threaded rod remains upright and out of the water. As the water exceeds 150-160*F, the threaded rod should get a 1.0-1.5- inch "erection" (i.e., it lengthens). If it does, the t'stat is usable, and you need to adjust the linkage via the threaded rod. Ensure that ALL the linkage pivots are well lubricated and move freely. Those t'stats USED to be rebuilt by Jim Otto of TN, who was retired from Honeywell which owned Fulton Sylphon, the original manufacturer. Three or four years ago, PAS member Scott Henningsen of CA (in the PAS roster) bought Jim's business and is now actually making new units.
  8. Twelve years ago I bought a set of Lucas's tubes to go in the Bedford Famous Coach tires purchased at the same time (700 x 17, 1934 Pierce 8). In the first 1,000 miles, returning from a PAS meet in SoCal, two of the tubes split along the bonded seams at speed (55-58 mph) in hot weather. I had meticulously prepared the inner portions of the wheels to prevent any chafing. Those tubes were soon replaced with 16" light truck tubes, which have given no problems, and neither have the Bedfords--which survived the flats perfectly.
  9. Jack, I used the same CB 33 on my 1934 (but only one of the pair, because the brake is the gimmicky accelerator duplicate 1933-35) so I'm sure your 1932 uses the same.
  10. Joe, I couldn't get a display out of the link. I *think* that Rock Auto sells at a discount excess inventory from various suppliers (talking only about vintage repro parts here) and uses the manufacturers' part numbers. So if you get the Steele or MMP part numbers and search for them on Rock's website, you may be able to save a few bucks. However, I don't trust Rock's applications listings for repro parts like those we're discussing--that is, rely on the source's part numbers.
  11. We need an emoji for "aaarrrggghhh!!!"
  12. The rectangular ones will work on my 1918, and I suspect, at least through 1920. Ours are oval.
  13. Wayne, this was supposed to be the summer of Paige: install wiring harness and reinstall head after the valve job. But life got in the way clearing out a family member's hoarder house...which is almost done, just in time for two weeks of tours starting a week from tomorrow! Finishing the Paige will give me something to while away the winter hours....
  14. Joe, they had pedal pads from the factory with script. My 1930 Model B roadster takes Metro Molded Parts no. CB33 (a pair under that part number) which retail at Metro for close to $300. Strictly by accident, I found them available, after a couple of months' wait, from Rock Auto under the same part number. At Rock Auto, search for "CB33 pad" and they'll say "out of stock." Then you ask to be notified when available. Whenever MMP releases excess inventory for sale by Rock, you'll get an email from Rock. I just looked at my records and saw that I paid $140 for a pair (one order of CB33) four years ago. Then I did it again 2 years ago for my 1934 Pierce. If you go the Rock Auto route, suggest buying two sets, as these are slip on pads and if you drive a lot (hope you will), top or bottom lip (depending on your foot style) will give up the ghost. To install, soak in near-boiling water, off the stove, for 10 minutes to make them flexible, and dry quickly with a towel, and give the metal pedal a dab of rubber cement of your choice. If you have trouble finding CB33 try variations such as "CB 33" or "CB-33"
  15. Dave, first I am so terribly sorry for your misfortune, as I have followed, silently, your journey with the Studebaker and have admired the great care you have given it and your posts have amply demonstrated the great love you and your family (including The Girls) have had for this car. In a California rearender, there is a presumption, a rebuttable presumption, that the second (tailing) car is at fault. Almost 20 years ago, I had the same experience with my 1981 Mercedes 280SL but the car in front wasn't doing anything with a phone--she just started, went 10 feet, and then balked for no apparent reason after the light turned green. Not worth fighting over, and no police were called. I was the "at fault" party because I had no evidence that she was doing anything she was required NOT to do. At this point, negotiation with your own company seems to be the only course of action. You have had a lot of great advice from forum members who obviously care about you and want the best for you. I like the idea of settling for $8k or so, then fixing it yourself. For all who read this: I like to accept the automatic annual increases in value (and resulting additional premiums) that Grundy (in my case) offers. Very cheap. In the care of a garage fire or a fire on the road or (heaven forbid) a rollover, I'd get paid more than I could ever sell any of my cars for. And because it's Agreed Value, I don't anticipate any quibble from the company. Another benefit is that this coverage pushes the "we want to total it" envelope ever outward, so that if I have a loss like yours and my company has "told me" that my car is now worth $25k rather than the $15k I paid for it 8 or so years ago, I'm much more likely to be able to repair a significant loss (but not a total loss) with what a company will grudgingly give me. I'd appreciate any feedback from our members with insurance broker/adjuster experience.
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