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MCHinson

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Everything posted by MCHinson

  1. You need to look at the 1938 Dealer Service Bulletins. There were two different fuel pumps available. One is the inverted bowl the other is the traditional style. Either you have the wrong fuel pump, or else it is upside down. If that pump came on the car, you have it upside down. I can't tell from your photo, will it bolt on the other way? The two fuel pumps take different fuel supply lines, so if the fuel pump came from elsewhere, it might be upside down, or it may be the wrong pump. I don't know enough about 1938 40 series to know from looking at your photo.
  2. I am not sure which size you need, but Bob's sells several different sizes of the same type of clip that is used on mouldings. You can measue the width of the moulding and see which size you need. Here is a link to one of them: https://bobsautomobilia.com/hardware/snap-in-7-8-moulding-clip-.-mc-4462/ On the hood, you should use that type on all but the front and back clips. On those, you use a clip that uses a bolt and nut to secure it to the hood. It is available in a few sizes so this might not be the right size... https://bobsautomobilia.com/hardware/3-4-to-1-molding-clip-.-mc-3/ I think if you call Bob's, they will know which ones you need.
  3. There may be a problem but here is what the website says about that question: PLUS we now feature two issues of the magazine online. A past issue, made available to anyone who wants to see it, and the current issue, available in the members only section and only available to AACA members. This will now allow even more exposure for your ad. If you have your website listed in the ad, readers will be able to hoover over the link and click to automatically be redirected to your site. This new feature adds tremendous value to your advertisement in the magazine and at no additional cost. It appears that the online issues on the website are not up to date. I seem to recall reading that they are working on a new and improved website, so that might explain why the current one might not be as up to date as it should be.
  4. Assuming that the Holden Body uses the same hardware as the Fisher Body, Bob's Automobilia sells the mounting bracket hardware for the hood hinge. I restored my 1938 Century by myself. I did a lot of work by myself and only asked friends for help when I absolutely had to. I would suggest you get a friend to help. It is nearly impossible for you to lift that hood off by yourself without damaging more paint. With two people, it is easy.
  5. I am relatively sure that the number listed on the Title is the engine number. It is not at all unusual to find an engine number listed as the "VIN" or "Serial Number" on cars of this era. It is unlikely to be the Title number since it is in the correct range for an engine number on a 1940 40 series Buick.
  6. I would suggest that before you rebuild the carburetor, you install a fuel pressure regulator between the fuel pump and the carburetor inlet. I had a similar issue with my 1937 Buick 80C, after I removed the modern electric pump and installed a rebuilt original fuel pump. It was dumping fuel out of the carburetor bowl vent onto the exhaust manifold until I dialed the fuel pressure down a bit from what the fuel pump was putting out. I assume that back in the day they did not need them but apparently with modern fuel they do.
  7. The number on the title is in the correct range to be the engine number on a 1940 Buick Special. The number they have listed as the engine number is likely a casting number... it is not the engine number.
  8. In addition to the carb is it possible that the timing is off, causing it to run hotter than it should? On the oil pressure, I would not worry about it too much. Since you have good oil pressure at higher rpms and no unusual noises, it sounds like the oil pressure at lower rpms is ok, no matter what the gauge is trying to tell you.
  9. Yes it could be other distributor related issues but, with a couple of decades of Model A Ford ownership, I can say that is usually the classic symptom of a failing condenser. The condenser is a quick easy inexpensive item to change and will likely resolve the issue.
  10. I would recommend you change your condenser and see if that doesn't fix it.
  11. The seller has not updated his ad text in several years. Notice that it claims the car is almost 80 years old. The car was 80 years old in 2017. The photos are also the same low quality photos from 2015 or 2016, I wonder how the car's condition actually looks now. From a quick glance at the ad photos... The battery has been relocated from under the passenger seat to in the engine compartment. The engine is the wrong color and has things painted that should not have been painted, so I wonder what else that is wrong that I don't see. Every single piece of fabric in the interior photos is incorrect... seats, door panels, etc. The horn button appears to be incorrect and the horn ring is missing. The steering wheel needs to be recast. The extra switches on the dash face ruined the otherwise original dash. The original fuel pump has been bypassed and replaced with an electric fuel pump, fairly well hidden in the photos posted. From what I can tell, it looks like the current owner did install heater hoses on the car since he bought it and may have repainted the previously incorrect hood side vent panels, but with the poor photos in the ad, I wonder how well that painting was done. The attached photo is a photo of the same engine compartment provided to me by the previous owner when he offered the car to me in 2015. In this photo, you can see the electric fuel pump clearly. In the ad photo, you can barely tell that the same fuel pump is there, but it is almost totally obscured. The original air cleaner appears to be gone and incorrect rubber fuel lines seem to run toward the carburetor. If you look at all of the ad photos, you will see that the windshield wipers are not working properly... probably not at all. When parked, they should be both pointing towards the bottom center of the windshield. They appear to be in various positions in different photos, but in one they appear pointed in odd directions which indicate that the wiper blade/transmission(s) connections are either loose or broken. With the fuel pump bypassed, it is likely that the vaccum portion of the fuel pump is also capped off, which means the wipers won't work.
  12. I hate to be negative about a 1937 Buick, but I had a chance to buy this particular car along with a 1937 Century that was owned by the same guy in 2015. At that time, it was in the midwest US. The seller offered the cars at a very reasonable price. I passed on the deal due to a lot of incorrect things on this car, as well as the difficulty of trying to arrange for transporting both cars the long distance they were away from me. It was purchased by someone out in California. As I recall, the new owner immediately tried to at least triple their money based on what they listed it for sale for a week or two after they bought it. It comes up for sale every now and then, but they never seem to be able to sell it. I know a bit about 1937 Buicks and while this is car is rare, if you paid $25,000 for it, I think you would have much more invested in it than it is worth and by the time you could correct the things that are wrong about it you would really be upside down.
  13. https://aaca.org/images/rummage_box/2021_Summer_Rummage_Box.pdf
  14. Off the top of my head, I don't know how the dimmer switch circuit works but if you have two headlights on when in high beam mode, and one goes out when you activate the dimmer switch, you appear to have a bad dimmer switch or else you have some wires that are not connected properly, or there is a problem inside the headlight switch. If it were me, I would install a new dimmer switch. If that did not solve the problem, I would check all of the wires in the headlight circuit again. If the problem still exists, I would replace the headlight switch.
  15. She and Bill are still AACA members and I typically see them judging. I am fairly certain that I recall seeing them both at the Charlotte Meet in April. I am not sure why Susan has not been on the forum in a long time.
  16. I have been busy with other things and have not updated this in a while. I still have not installed the new wiring harness but have taken care of a few things that were bothering me. When the dealership put the car on display back in the early 1970's they apparently repainted the engine. The paint that they used was not quite the correct shade for a 1937 Buick engine and the repaint was in poor condition. For some reason, they had painted the generator green. I have repainted the engine with the correct colored Bill Hirsch 1937 Buick engine paint. I repainted the generator black. While I was working in the area, I also installed a new water pump, hoses, correct reproduction hose clamps, heater hose shut off valves, and a new fan belt. I discovered that the bypass valve conversion job had been attempted in the past, but the brass rod had been left in place and a larger hole than is normally used was drilled in the freeze plug. This appeared to possibly be allowing too much coolant to bypass the radiator. I removed the brass rod and installed a new freeze plug with an appropriately sized hole in the center. Before I started the engine painting job, I removed the push rod cover to install a new gasket. the existing gasket was leaking oil. It appeared to likely be the original gasket. There was only a very small amount of sludge buildup on the inside of the push rod cover. I cleaned that up, painted the exterior side and installed a new gasket, resolving the oil leak. I also repainted (in the correct black color) and relocated the heater hose bracket to the middle valve cover stud as it was originally in 1937. I think getting the heater hoses lower by mounting the bracket on the front spark plug cover stud as was done with the elimination of the center valve cover stud in 1938 makes the engine look better, but I think that it should be kept as it was originally. I installed a new valve cover decal despite the heater hoses partially blocking the view of it. The previous owner had installed an electric fuel pump in the engine compartment, bypassing the original mechanical fuel pump. The previous owner had also installed a glass bowl fuel filter just before the carburetor fuel inlet. I did not like the potential for a fuel leak from the glass bowl on top of the exhaust manifold. I installed a rebuilt correct mechanical fuel pump. I removed the gas filter near the exhaust manifold and installed a fuel filter element in the glass bowl of the mechanical fuel pump. I also installed a new vacuum line since the original had been destroyed when the previous owner bypassed the original fuel pump. This enabled me to get the windshield wipers back to work so I also installed new wiper blades. At the first startup, I discovered that the new rebuilt fuel pump was overpressuring the carburetor and forcing gas out of the carburetor bowl vent, actually dropping fuel on the exhaust manifold, which was one of the things I was trying to avoid. I then installed an adjustable fuel pressure regulator at the carburetor gas inlet, solving that problem.
  17. I think they all used that type of switch. I found the remains of those on my 1938 Century project and the 1938 Special body donor car. It is likely that almost all of them have been replaced over the years and many aftermarket switches have been substituted for originals on otherwise original cars.
  18. My area of expertise is 1937 and 1938 Buicks. The original photo bumper appears to have ridges like a 1936 Buick bumper to my eyes. 1936 Buicks can have stainless steel trim, similar to the Dodge. I answered the original question what Buick could it be. If it is a Buick, it has to be a 1936. After looking at some photos online, I think it is quite possible that "My grandfather always drove a Buick" was not quite correct. Looks like the taillights could be Dodge. The body lines on Buick and Dodge sedans certainly were very similar in 1936.
  19. The original photo appears to have a ribbed bumper which the Dodge does not have but a 1936 Buick would have. Not the best comparison photo, but I think if you look closely you will see the difference in the bumpers. http://smclassiccars.com/uploads/postfotos/1936-buick-special-dual-sidemount-2.jpg It could be they put a Buick Bumper on a Dodge after the crash that dented the right rear fender.
  20. From the bumper, tail lights, and artillary wheels, I would say that is a 1936 Buick Sedan. Probably a Special, but too little visible to be sure.
  21. You will find it listed on the mailing cover sheet that comes with your next issue of Antique Automobile magazine.
  22. Also, In Volume XIX, Issue 2, page 20 of the Torque Tube the following information appears:
  23. Thanks for mentioning that Brian. I had never actually seen that information so I looked it up. In Volume 3, Issue 3, page 15 of the Torque Tube the following information appears:
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