MCHinson

The 36-38 Buick Club, despite its name, is open to all Straight 8 era Buicks, from 1931 to 1952. Is that possibly what you are looking for? https://3638buickclub.org/

The item on the steering wheel is not a Buick authorized accessory. I could guess it is either an aftermarket compass or an aftermarket clock.

Do you have a 1938 Buick Shop Manual? The vacuum switch is only one part of that circuit. There are several potential problem areas that could be causing erratic operation. Review Chapter 12 of the Shop Manual. The circuit includes the vacuum switch, the solenoid, the solenoid relay, the voltage regulator, and the generator windings. Troubleshooting all of the circuit, I suspect you will find something else that needs adjustment, or at least cleaning. If all of the circuit is returned to original condition, it should start reliably. If you want to add an auxiliary switch, you can add a push button to the bottom of the dash rail (there are a couple of holes there from the factory unless you are already using them for other switches) and you can add wiring to trigger the solenoid relay from an added switch.

Hate to hear this. Sherm was a great guy. I have not seen him in a few years but always enjoyed talking with him.

That back adjustment screw sticks through the headlight bucket and the engine side panel so you can adjust it by reaching into the engine compartment. Attached is a scanned diagram from the 1937 Buick Service presentation.

Sorry you missed the advanced announcements about where the trailer parking was. Glad you found something that worked. The rain won't hamper the show. Enjoy your day at the show.

I can't confirm it is accurate as some of the region website information looks like it is still from 2022, but their website indicates: Limited parking is available at a fee of $20.00. Parking will be along Boat House Road. Watch for the signs for trailer parking. All trailers must be removed no later than 5 p.m. on Friday or they will be towed at the owners' expense.

Most people in Hershey are too busy to be on the forum. I am not there, but from past experience, you will find signs directing you to trailer parking. Other than that, you can stop by any of the traffic control posts and I am sure they can direct you to it.

With a quick measurement, it looks like about 66 1/2 inches long.

If that exhaust diverter is not operating properly, it will certainly cause a problem, typically the car will overheat, so that could be the problem or part of the problem. You can't really "set" it in one of two positions. If it is moving, it will freely flap around unless the spring assembly is holding it. I never can remember from looking at the outside, which position the valve flap is pointed. With modern fuel, I actually think that removal of the diverter valve flap is a good idea. The reproductions of those sections's do not have the diverter valve flap. I am afraid that you are going to have to do some major disassembly to remove the flap.

That is 1937. If you don't sell it, let me know after Hershey and I will be happy to advertise it for you in the Torque Tube II newsletter of the 36-38 Buick Club.

Yes, it works fine. It feels like it is just as stong as it was before I stupidly broke it with the buffer. The trick is basically, less heat rather than more heat, with the heat applied indirectly, heating the part, not the solder. As soon as I figured that out, it worked easily and quickly.

As I recounted in a recent Torque Tube II article, I repaired a broken pot metal 1937 Buick horn ring with Muggy Weld's product: https://www.muggyweld.com/product/super-alloy-1/ I read about it somewhere on the forum if I recall correctly. When I broke the horn ring in a misguided attempt to buff it, I went to their website, watched their videos, and ordered the product. The videos looked too good to be true. When I first started to use it with a propane torch, I wasted most of the first rod before I figured out I had the heat too high and I was being too agressive. One of their videos used an electric heat gun rather than a torch. I had one of those that I had previously used for some paint stripping. I tried the heat gun and was almost immediately successful. On this product, less heat works better than more heat and when you get the hang of it, it does look almost too good to be true, but it works great. I think it will solve your problem with that piece. I think it will be plenty strong for that repair.

I got into antique cars when I was in my 30's. I am now in my 60's. I had Model A Fords for many years, although I now own two 1937 Buicks. I have drivien a Model T Ford, and while they don't personally appeal to me, I understand that a lot of young people, do find them appealing. I know multiple younger hobbyists in my local AACA Chapter who own Model T Fords. They love them and enjoy driving them often.

It looks like there is a word stamped in cursive letters into the back side of the top tank between the two top outlets (basically directly above the aftermarket fan on the top tank). What is that word? It might help identify what it might go to.

I don't know what it is but it is not an original 1938 Buick Radiator. The shape appears earlier, but the presence of the rubber overflow tube and the outlet for that tube would tend to look like it is a later year. That is an odd one, but I agree wiht EmTee that it is not an original 1938 Buick radiator.

Do you have an insulating base under the carburetor? I think that EmTee is probably correct. I have never experienced that problem but I have never operated a Buick of this era without an insulating base under the carburetor. I think they are needed with modern fuels, probably to prevent the problem that you are experiencing. https://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/carburetor-items/carb-base-insulator-4-bolt-holes-1935-52-cbp-360/ https://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/carburetor-items/carb-base-insulator-3-hole-1934-40-cbp-350/

I agree with EmTee. I would not remove it. Unless you are planning to have it seriously judged, I would probably not touch it. As soon as you paint that exhaust manifold, you are going to notice that the engine paint on the block and valve cover needs to be repainted to look as good as exhaust manifold, and then you will want to repaint the intake manifold...

You need to slide it off. Since it is popped up, you might gently press it back down and then slide it. A bit of lubricant will help it slide off more easily.

I am guessing you must be talking about Pete DiPasquale. He also did two 1937 radios for me. He does great work at reasonable prices.

Yes, just undo all of the bolts/nuts and the intake and exhaust manifold will come off. I would be sure to have a new gaskets on hand before disassembly so you can put them back on.

That is probably not related. If something went wrong with the electical system, it would have stopped immediately. If the sudden stop caused an issue with fuel delivery, that might have taken a short time to show up, but if that happened, you probably would not be seeing fuel in the carburetor when you tested it later.

No, but NAPA sells two different ones that will fit a 1938 Buick Special. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MPERR174SB and https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHRR174 Either should be OK, but if one of them is US made and the other is imported, I would buy the US made one. Do you have a volt-ohm meter? You will need one of those for troubleshooting the electrical system. You can use it to see if the breaker plate is grounded as well as the other testing that you will need to effectively troubleshoot the electrical system.

If you are getting fuel at the carburetor, I would check the distributor first. The most common electrical problem would be a failed condensor. Unless you see something else seriously amiss in the distributor, I would personally change out the condensor with a known good one before any further testing. (Some modern imported ones are bad out of the box when new.) If you don't have access to a known good one, I would suggest you buy one from NAPA Auto parts. Theirs are a bit more likely to be good than the imported ones typically sold by the Buick specific parts suppliers. Other than that, test for voltages using the troubleshooting information in the shop manual.

Las Vegas Dave has not been on the forum in over 3 years. If you want to contact him, you may wish to try emailing him. I am fairly sure that his carburetors won't help you since Dave only owned a 1938 Special, which does not use the same carburetor as your series 90. For that carburetor, I would suggest you try Dave Tacheny. You can best reach Dave Tacheny by calling 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central. I would also suggest you check out and consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club.: https://3638buickclub.org/ There are other club members who regularly advertise parts for sale in the club newsletter. If you contact me via private message here on the forum or the contact the webmaster link on the 36-38 Buick Club website, I will be happy to send you a free sample .pdf copy of a recent club newsletter.