MCHinson

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MCHinson last won the day on March 6

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About MCHinson

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    http://wilmingtonengraving.com/

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    Wilmington, NC

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  1. Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. The best source for those wheels would probably be Dave Tachney. He specializes in 1936-1941 Buick Parts. You can best reach him by calling 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central. I would also encourage you to check out the 36-38 Buick Club website at http://www.3638buickclub.org/ and consider joining the club. If Dave does not currently have the wheels you need, it is possible that another club member might have some for sale. If you send me a private message with your email address, or use the email the webmaster link on http://www.3638buickclub.org/, I will be happy to send you a pdf copy of the most recent club newsletter that contains some ads from other club members who might have some for sale.
  2. Yes, but when an old post from a current active member receives a reply from a newbie, it should be fairly clear that despite the newbie's poorly writtten post, that he is not the original poster. Hopefully the newbie will receive a reply from one of the multiple ads that he has replied to, with a source for the fenders that he needs. Even better, I hope he will let us know which series car he has. He has replied to ads for multiple different series parts. For example, Special fenders and Century fenders will not work on the other series. Myhibun, Which series parts are you looking for? That might help narrow down the search a bit. In any case, you are more likely to find what you are looking for if you call Dave Tacheny at 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central. He is typically the best source for any such parts for any 1936-1941 Buicks.
  3. Actually that was a newbie attempting to ASK if they were still available, although you are technically correct that his post did actually state "Fenders still available". Also, when the original post was created there was just one For Sale forum. When Peter Gariepy decided to split it out into separate Parts for Sale and Cars for Sale forums, the original forum became "Cars for Sale", so the post was originally in the correct forum, but the correct forum was changed to the wrong forum after the post had already been posted.
  4. That is a spammer. Whenever you see spam, click the "report post" link at the top right corner of the spam post and the moderators should take care of it. I have reported the current chinese spammer's posts so hopefully a moderator will remove it and ban the spammer soon.
  5. I would suggest it could be either a bad fuel pickup tube in the fuel tank, or perhaps the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor. I once had a 1954 Buick Special with a small crack in the line between the fuel pump and the carburetor. It was difficult to find and caused a similar problem.
  6. Earl started this discussion because he was surprised with his inability to sell his 1939 Buick Special Convertible Sedan as quickly as he thought he should be able to sell it. From reviewing similar recent sales, I told him that I thought his price was too high. I follow the market for similar cars fairly closely since I am the editor of the newsletter for the 36-38 Buick Club. As it turns out, Earl has sold the car for a higher price than I told him that I though the car was worth in the current market. I have seen all sorts of pre-war cars for sale and sold at all kinds of different prices. Sometimes they sell for more than I expect, and sometimes they sell for less. That is simply the way the market works. A car is worth what a willing buyer will pay a willing seller. Sometimes the two find each other quickly, and sometimes it takes a while. Sometimes the seller has unreasonabl expectations and sometimes the buyer has unreasonable expectations. There is no simple hard and fast rule to determine the exact value of a particular car on a particular day.
  7. Did you ever buy a copy of the Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook? I think I recommended that to you a few years ago. The ignition trouble shooting chart in it should help you. Also, on a Model A Ford it is fairly easy to take one of the spark plug connectors off, bend it near the plug and see if the spark will jump from it to the plug. With the car in neutral, you can depress the starter switch with your hand from the driver's side of the engine compartment and see the spark (or lack of spark) easily from there.
  8. MCHinson

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    Go to your inbox. On the left side of the screen you will see a list of messages. There is a check box on the left side of each message. Click in that check box and a dialog box will come up near the bottom center of the screen with an option to delete that message.
  9. I was not born into the hobby, but one of my older brother's ran a lawn mower repair business and I worked for him when I was young. I have a high school education. I graduated in 1979. I did not take any shop classes or anything similar. I wish I had. I am a retired Police Lieutenant. I have been involved in the hobby since 1996. I have learned a lot from fellow club members. I have learned a bunch through reading. I have learned a bunch through this forum. I have learned a bunch through doing. A lot of trial and error over the years make you pretty good at this type of work. Get the books, read them all, research online, watch videos online (which is now a much easier way to learn a lot of things), take good digital photos as you disassemble components. Figure out how it works, or why it does not, repair it and reassemble it using your photos when you have questions about how something goes together. Over time, you will become one of the old guys who teaches the next generation. My first antique car was a Model A Ford. I bought that because it was simple and lots of information was readily available about it. Buying an earlier or more obscure car is a mistake for the average new hobbyist. What I learned on Model A Ford's has allowed me to help others work on cars as diverse as a 1923 Buick, a 1937 Ford, and a 1968 Cadillac. I now do about anthing that is need on my 1937 Buick Century and the knowledge learned over the years is allowing me to now restore a 1938 Buick Century.
  10. Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. From what you have described it sounds like the timing is probably set correctly. Usually, when adjusting the advance causes stalling, you will find a bad spot of insulation on a wire somewhere shorting out causing the problem. If not a wiring problem, I would change to a known good condensor. I have seen more new defective condensors than I can recall. Where are you located? Perhaps an experienced Model A guy might live nearby and could help you with it.
  11. Thanks. I am sure we can work something out. I will be in touch with you in the near future.
  12. You can call AACA headquarters on Monday and they can give you the AACA history of the car from the engraved number on the grille badge.
  13. At this time, I have only posted the Torque Tube copies, including the index. That is all that was recently inquired about in a facebook group, which resulted in the conversation wtih Jim giving me permission to post them. I think I actually have all of Jim's other documentation as well, as he shared many items with me a few years ago. It is possible that I can post additional items on the club website, but my current limiting factor is that to keep costs down for the club, I don't purchase paid hosting services from my web company. I am hosting it all on a free Google Drive service. I had to delete a lot of old emails and other items that I had saved on my Google Drive to be able to post the Torque Tube issues. If there is a particular item that someone is looking for that was on Jim's site that someone needs, I will be happy to share it.
  14. The 37-38 Buick Club has been gone for many years. Jim Forshey kept up the site to maintain access to the old issues of the Torque Tube. He recently decided to no longer keep the site up. The 36-38 Buick Club was formed by some of the members of the 37-38 Buick Club after the first club folded. With Jim's permission, I have now posted the issues of the Torque Tube on the 36-38 Buick Club website. You will find a link to all of the Issues of the Torque Tube on the club home page at: http://www.3638buickclub.org/. If you would like to receive current issues of the Torque Tube II newsletter of the 36-38 Buick Club, you will also find a membership application on the club website. I would encourge you to consider membership. If you are interested in receiving a .pdf sample of a recent Torque Tube II newsletter, let me know and I will be happy to send you a sample issue so you would get an idea of the sort of newsletter that our club members receive.