MCHinson

You need to look at the 1938 Dealer Service Bulletins. There were two different fuel pumps available. One is the inverted bowl the other is the traditional style. Either you have the wrong fuel pump, or else it is upside down. If that pump came on the car, you have it upside down. I can't tell from your photo, will it bolt on the other way? The two fuel pumps take different fuel supply lines, so if the fuel pump came from elsewhere, it might be upside down, or it may be the wrong pump. I don't know enough about 1938 40 series to know from looking at your photo.

I am not sure which size you need, but Bob's sells several different sizes of the same type of clip that is used on mouldings. You can measue the width of the moulding and see which size you need. Here is a link to one of them: https://bobsautomobilia.com/hardware/snap-in-7-8-moulding-clip-.-mc-4462/ On the hood, you should use that type on all but the front and back clips. On those, you use a clip that uses a bolt and nut to secure it to the hood. It is available in a few sizes so this might not be the right size... https://bobsautomobilia.com/hardware/3-4-to-1-molding-clip-.-mc-3/ I think if you call Bob's, they will know which ones you need.

Larry, Glad you two are OK. So sorry about the car.

There may be a problem but here is what the website says about that question: PLUS we now feature two issues of the magazine online. A past issue, made available to anyone who wants to see it, and the current issue, available in the members only section and only available to AACA members. This will now allow even more exposure for your ad. If you have your website listed in the ad, readers will be able to hoover over the link and click to automatically be redirected to your site. This new feature adds tremendous value to your advertisement in the magazine and at no additional cost. It appears that the online issues on the website are not up to date. I seem to recall reading that they are working on a new and improved website, so that might explain why the current one might not be as up to date as it should be.

Assuming that the Holden Body uses the same hardware as the Fisher Body, Bob's Automobilia sells the mounting bracket hardware for the hood hinge. I restored my 1938 Century by myself. I did a lot of work by myself and only asked friends for help when I absolutely had to. I would suggest you get a friend to help. It is nearly impossible for you to lift that hood off by yourself without damaging more paint. With two people, it is easy.

I am relatively sure that the number listed on the Title is the engine number. It is not at all unusual to find an engine number listed as the "VIN" or "Serial Number" on cars of this era. It is unlikely to be the Title number since it is in the correct range for an engine number on a 1940 40 series Buick.

I would suggest that before you rebuild the carburetor, you install a fuel pressure regulator between the fuel pump and the carburetor inlet. I had a similar issue with my 1937 Buick 80C, after I removed the modern electric pump and installed a rebuilt original fuel pump. It was dumping fuel out of the carburetor bowl vent onto the exhaust manifold until I dialed the fuel pressure down a bit from what the fuel pump was putting out. I assume that back in the day they did not need them but apparently with modern fuel they do.

The number on the title is in the correct range to be the engine number on a 1940 Buick Special. The number they have listed as the engine number is likely a casting number... it is not the engine number.

In addition to the carb is it possible that the timing is off, causing it to run hotter than it should? On the oil pressure, I would not worry about it too much. Since you have good oil pressure at higher rpms and no unusual noises, it sounds like the oil pressure at lower rpms is ok, no matter what the gauge is trying to tell you.

Yes

Yes it could be other distributor related issues but, with a couple of decades of Model A Ford ownership, I can say that is usually the classic symptom of a failing condenser. The condenser is a quick easy inexpensive item to change and will likely resolve the issue.

I would recommend you change your condenser and see if that doesn't fix it.

The seller has not updated his ad text in several years. Notice that it claims the car is almost 80 years old. The car was 80 years old in 2017. The photos are also the same low quality photos from 2015 or 2016, I wonder how the car's condition actually looks now. From a quick glance at the ad photos... The battery has been relocated from under the passenger seat to in the engine compartment. The engine is the wrong color and has things painted that should not have been painted, so I wonder what else that is wrong that I don't see. Every single piece of fabric in the interior photos is incorrect... seats, door panels, etc. The horn button appears to be incorrect and the horn ring is missing. The steering wheel needs to be recast. The extra switches on the dash face ruined the otherwise original dash. The original fuel pump has been bypassed and replaced with an electric fuel pump, fairly well hidden in the photos posted. From what I can tell, it looks like the current owner did install heater hoses on the car since he bought it and may have repainted the previously incorrect hood side vent panels, but with the poor photos in the ad, I wonder how well that painting was done. The attached photo is a photo of the same engine compartment provided to me by the previous owner when he offered the car to me in 2015. In this photo, you can see the electric fuel pump clearly. In the ad photo, you can barely tell that the same fuel pump is there, but it is almost totally obscured. The original air cleaner appears to be gone and incorrect rubber fuel lines seem to run toward the carburetor. If you look at all of the ad photos, you will see that the windshield wipers are not working properly... probably not at all. When parked, they should be both pointing towards the bottom center of the windshield. They appear to be in various positions in different photos, but in one they appear pointed in odd directions which indicate that the wiper blade/transmission(s) connections are either loose or broken. With the fuel pump bypassed, it is likely that the vaccum portion of the fuel pump is also capped off, which means the wipers won't work.

I hate to be negative about a 1937 Buick, but I had a chance to buy this particular car along with a 1937 Century that was owned by the same guy in 2015. At that time, it was in the midwest US. The seller offered the cars at a very reasonable price. I passed on the deal due to a lot of incorrect things on this car, as well as the difficulty of trying to arrange for transporting both cars the long distance they were away from me. It was purchased by someone out in California. As I recall, the new owner immediately tried to at least triple their money based on what they listed it for sale for a week or two after they bought it. It comes up for sale every now and then, but they never seem to be able to sell it. I know a bit about 1937 Buicks and while this is car is rare, if you paid $25,000 for it, I think you would have much more invested in it than it is worth and by the time you could correct the things that are wrong about it you would really be upside down.

https://aaca.org/images/rummage_box/2021_Summer_Rummage_Box.pdf