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kgreen last won the day on September 27 2019

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About kgreen

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  • Birthday 06/17/1957

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  1. Your manifold is a three piece component and prone to breaking at the location you noted. It has been postulated that the part could be welded for repair. Many owners of cars with similar engines find a replacement part. According to my parts book, the exhaust manifold from 1940 and 1946-51, all series 70 are the same. You may also look way down on this forum site for people that talk about Buicks a lot; they can be a helpful lot.
  2. Over exaggeration of the car description is the give away.
  3. Another view of a 1940 Buick with the C body and curvateous wheel shields. The women is blocking a lot of the view to this car and the photographer seemed to edit out most of the car, too. Still a great photo.
  4. Pretty much my point. Even when I was stone broke there were other priorities. I recently reviewed my SS benefits and earning summary over my life - my goodness what a joke.
  5. If they are worth $250k as fully assembled cars, imagine what they would be worth parted out.
  6. Check also with Bobs Speedometer, he may have one already rebuilt, but can rebuild the one you have. https://www.bobsspeedometer.com/
  7. Rich: I have an extra clock, but it does not work. I've had the clock that I'm going to use rebuilt by Bob's Speedometer along with all my other gages. It was cheap, I only had to take out a second mortgage on the house, the dog and a future grandchild. You might also try Greg Johnson at @2carb40.
  8. What do you use for a bead breaker on the later pre-war tires?
  9. Are you suggesting a "pop-up" event, sort of a random meeting like seeing your neighbor at the grocery store? Then it would be hard to pin liability on anyone if someone in attendance contracted some sort of disease; no organization could then be held liable. Of course that would require all those in attendance to fully accept conditions of attendance, should they decide to attend .
  10. I also did an intense search for steel wheel straightener services. One firm offered to help but cold not guarantee their results. Another guy I found said he would just beat the thing into submission. I tried a couple techniques myself using the weight of the car, but with no success. This is a great question because I've been scrapping slightly bent, rare wheels.
  11. No, please the speedo will not do, and no photos either! I think I would rather have you re-attempt to install air conditioning. Kidding aside, check into the aviation inspired solution. See this: https://www.aviationconsumer.com/accessories/cockpit-cabin-coolers-do-they-really-work/
  12. Those who follow the rules explicitly are likely to get run over by the car traveling the wrong way on a one way street.
  13. I had one. I was awfully tempted to work on it, but heck, I needed diversity and room on my driveway so I sold it. I bought a 1940 76C on eBay about two years ago. When I picked the car up, he offered the Roadmaster coupe for free. I sold the coupe to Dave Tacheny and the 76C has been a great donor car. This is it above. It was as rust free as you could get, see the photo below. Even the tool tray way solid. It was factory or dealer undercoated. The dash was gone and the engine was frozen. The exhaust manifold was cracked, darn it.
  14. You just opened up another can of worms for discussion. Give this a shot:
  15. I'm not sure that it matters, I put the outer, lower contact surface against the torque ball retainer. The point would be to add pressure to the seal. The contact surface of the seal is stiff enough that the force of the spring will spread out over the surface of the seal sufficiently to accomplish that task. Here's a photo of the polish job I did on my torque ball and housing. As long as your seal surface is not touching the seal, you ought to be fine. I've looked at several torque balls and retainers to find a good set for my car. I am always amazed at the scoring damage o
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