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kgreen

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kgreen last won the day on September 20 2022

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About kgreen

  • Birthday 06/17/1957

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  1. Wow, Matt, I made it this far with my car as well. Same symptoms you described in this thread. Thank goodness for searchability. Thanks for your help today from 8 years ago.
  2. The problem with this era Tbird is the complex wiring which isn't modular, each wire is independent and there are a lot of wires under that dash. Second problem is the pneumatic controls which create a huge opportunity for vacuum leaks. The car uses pneumatic controls for the door locks, vents, and heating/AC system. I think these are beautiful cars and underappreciated, but man are they a chore to work on.
  3. Finished installing the pretty stuff, now the car needs to be functional. Valves took forever to adjust, noisy as all get out until I could warm the engine and run in all the brand new machining. I used an old valve cover since I took it off and put it back on a number times figuring I would damage paint somewhere. Timing adjustment; darn I put the flywheel on without regard to the timing marks like I did with my covid series 50 "let's get this beast running" project. I was off a tooth this way and that way. It's now dialed in. I think my carb float level is too high, gas came out of a hole up near the fuel feed on a couple occaisions. Choke was out of adjustment, think it's good now. The vacuum starter switch was sticking. It is an NOS unit. The plunger appears to stick periodically. I took it off the carb and cleaned it with electronics cleaner. Not supposed to use oils as they will attract dust and gum up the works. The engine runs good and start fairly well, it has a minor skip. I've checked all the plug gaps again and the points setting. Maybe the engine needs to run a bit. I'll say that 320 cubic inches exhausting out of the straight through muffler sounds quite nice. The glove box light is still intermittent, can't pick up any AM radio stations inside the garage to test the radio. I'm getting killed on the details. So far several weekends were dedicated to adjustment and frustration. Good news, Bloo's guidance on the heater motor was spot on. My heater runs properly - thanks Bloo!
  4. Shout out to 1941 Buick convertible owners (either parts, in pieces or whole). Can't tell the model of the 41 Buick in this photo. It is reported to be a parade taking place in 1943 where the City of Burlington, VT would take the newly enlisted to the bus terminal as a show of support, for their trip to basic training.
  5. No, good guess as I had that idea as well. I think Bloo nailed it. It makes sense of what I've read as well. Nice to have Bloo's confirmation though.
  6. If I was unclear, I meant the heater motor. I believe my engine turns in the proper rotation 'cause three reverse speeds would not be useful. John, thanks for reading my questions and responding though!
  7. Do I understand you correctly that if the field wires were rerouted to their respective brush which was located on the opposite side of the field, then I can change rotor direction? Not sure if CW or CCW are correct in the diagram below, but confirming my understanding of your instruction:
  8. Would switching the connections at the brushes do anything? Logic tells me no. I'm going to swap this motor out if there are no options.
  9. I have two wires one positive the other negative. Reversing the wires dis not change the direction of rotation. I took the motor apart to see if there was any possible way to make a change and after multiple internet searches, I did not find any useable information. Interesting motor feature when I disassembled the motor though. The rotor and the field sizes were different. The external appearance of the motor was the same and was ordered from a Chevy parts dealer.
  10. This is the phase of the project where so little can be seen, but will take so much time. After being notified that my new fuel sending unit would not e arriving on Friday, but rather Monday, I tackled small projects that I had hoped would find a way to complete themselves. Procrastination only works if you wait for it. This past weekend I tackled the under seat heater and defroster and painting a few of the last engine items. I took the rear seat out of storage to fit into the car and had to admire the lovely vinyl some previous owner had chosen for what turned out to be my parts car. The seat springs that came with my car, also a parts car, were cleaned of old fabric and stuffing by throwing it onto a fire. This, bragged the previous owner, was the most expedient way to yield perfectly clean springs. They were clean alright, clean of any spring left in them. The heat destroyed the frames. Fortunately I got a good rear seat from the parts car and a good front seat from Greg (2carb40) several years ago. The flywheel cover required a bit of banging to remove evidence of its being used as a jack point. The valve cover required a going over to clean up surface rust. They are now painted to match the gray used on the rest of the engine. Decals to come later. The defroster housing was primed with an epoxy primer for a finish coat this coming weekend. The under seat heat appeared black on Lewis Jenkins restorations and was completed and installed. The heater is a plain old enamel. The odd thing is that the heater motor spins clockwise, which, when the fan blade is installed face up or face down, blows out of the inlet. Yet another one of those seemingly minor tasks that will take five times as long to fix yet show no photographic results. I wonder if I got my hands on another year of Buick motor, or one from a Chevy, Olds or Pontiac that turned CW rotation vs CCW? Off to the internet for a search. Or it may be that this motor belongs to Grant's car, which is located in the southern hemisphere???
  11. Rear steering car or is this engine in the front of the car?
  12. http://www.badshoeproductions.com/ I used this video. I set three portable tables into a U-shape with kraft paper covering. When taking the trans apart, I placed parts in order on the tables and made notes next to parts as needed. The problem that I had was in the clean up of the governor in the tail shaft. It looked clean, felt clean, but still hung up. I was instructed to use a "green scrubby" on the parts to sort of polish them. My symptom was that the trans would not shift from 2 to 3. After cleaning the governor, the shifts worked. I bought a rebuild kit for about $100 and a new torque converter for another $100 (2014 $). I replaced the torque converter on the advice that my transmission sat for several years and sediment in the oil could have settled to the bottom of the housing causing an imbalance. I needed one special tool to remove a snap ring. The vacuum modulator was removed by grinding down a cheap wrench. I had a bad part, I think part of a pump, but got it replaced. The amazing part of this whole process was the low cost. I think the trans repair shops don't replace all the parts but do a general clean and replace a couple seals, but not all seals. Good luck!
  13. That being the case, I'll consider your idea off limits. Thanks.
  14. Lower set of holes with, as you mentioned, bolts going through the backing plate and spindle. Be aware that the arms are left and right as reversing these will cause interference problems.
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