• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


kgreen last won the day on September 27

kgreen had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,311 Excellent


About kgreen

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/17/1957

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Atlanta, GA

Recent Profile Visitors

3,036 profile views
  1. You could always just bypass the heating/defrost coils until you are through with the evaporust process. If you are concerned about the antifreeze remaining then also know that the evaporust will also stay entrained. Once evaporust turns black I suspect that it’s ph had changed and becomes ineffective. That said any remaining traces are likely not going to be a problem.
  2. Thanks Matt. I've understood the difference between the firewall and body is that the firewall paint was applied and not buffed whereas the exposed parts of the car were buffed. Thank you very much for your input. I've not had access to a car that has not been repainted but the search is on.
  3. As an interesting side note and for future posterity on topic searches for this thread, the convertible in 1940 only has rubber mounts between the body and the frame, nothing under the frame. I suspect this arrangement was for improved rigidity in the convertible bodies. It is likely that convertibles of other years have this same arrangement of rubber between frame and body only, with no rubber under the frame.
  4. As the body mounts get old they may shrink or compress as well as harden. The hardtop 40 Buicks that I've dissected have rubber on both sides of the frame at the connection points, the point being there is plenty of opportunity for the body to frame bolts to become slightly loose, but not because the fasteners have loosened. I say rubber but the material looks like conveyor belt material and appears as a fiber reinforced rubber. If shrinkage has occurred, then the body mounts may not be as tight as they once were. You may see some improvement if they are tightened after inspecting to be sure they are indeed loose. You may see more improvement by replacing the rubber mounts. I'd also note that the rubber in each mount may not be equal in thickness as some may have been adjusted or shimmed in the factory to accommodate variances in the frame or body. Whether you tighten or replace the rubber mounts, be cautious of your body alignment.
  5. Yes, I have after months of looking at other cars. Of the other 76C's out there I've seen blue, green and cream colored. I don't have a full accounting though, but I've chosen maroon with a tan top and interior. Also thinking seriously of keeping it as authentic as possible and simple with no accessories like fogs, grill guards, spots or other such possible options.
  6. Body work is 99% complete. Tweaking the wheel shields (fender skirts) and rear bumper stone guard which are originals purchased from @2carb40 (Thanks yet again Greg!). The car is in primer stage and blocking. The car is fully assembled including underside panels like stone shields so that anything that can affect body panel alignment is in place for verification of final assembly. Since the doors were totally reconstructed, the window frames and crank mechanisms and ventipanes will be installed also to be certain that everything will line up after paint. Paint isn't scheduled until winter sets in with low dust and humidity and Dan's ability to control heat and airborne moisture content. The car will be totally disassembled with the body put on a rotisserie for ease of painting, sanding and finishing. Everything will be painted separately. Originally Buick painted the body with the doors and I believe the deck lid installed. At this point, everything except the window frames and ventipanes is in for replating. For replating, I found Rick at R&D Finishing. He used to do all of Lewis Jenkins plating.
  7. Does a reliable printed source or knowledgable source exist to help me with painting the 40 Buick? I'm specifically interested in the color and paint locations for the underside and not so readily visual parts of the body. For example: Behind the grill Thinking engine bay color Underside of fenders Probably won't undercoat the car, but assume the parts were released either painted or primed Underside of hood sections Stone shields located behind the wheels and under the fender chassis black? Inner fender line of demarcation between body color and engine bay color Top of radiator support engine bay color, ie chassis black Underside of gas cap door Underside of stone guard at the rear bumper Color of primer used on the underside of the car red oxide? Confirm assumption that interior of car and trunk is same primer color as underside of body red oxide? Point of demarcation between primer under car to firewall which is painted body color Guessing that firewall was painted and demarcation was overspray as the color extended only to the visible forward portion of the firewall. Rocker to primer demarcation Have already received advice that overspray from rocker spray extended beneath car only to the extent that rockers were fully painted. Underside of deck lid Suspect body color but not finished by sanding or polishing. Does the sound insulation then have paint on it?
  8. Using an electric fan allows some creativity under the cavernous front fender wells. However, instead of somewhat near ambient temperature being introduced to the radiator during engine operation, the radiator now sees preheated air from the engine compartment. I suppose a larger radiator and multiple fans could possibly accomodate that though. Just curious as the dickens at this point and always interested in unique solutions.
  9. Look at the upper radiator hose. How do you suppose the radiator was installed?
  10. The one view that you show doesn't seem to have any problems. The terminal ends that contact the bulb might be worn but can be repaired. At any rate, look beyond Pontiac in Buick as well. Come to think of it see if Chevs of the 40s has the part! Edit: no, can't see it in Chevs of the 40s.
  11. Would this work? It is for a Buick of the same year:|Make%3ABuick&hash=item3d7db5c0df:g:YIMAAOSwy3JcITU1&vxp=mtr
  12. Baking soda works better than cat litter. Smaller particles with great affinity for absorption. Spread it, let it sit, broom it around then sweep it up and dispose of it.
  13. Solvent and absorption pads on the oil spots then shot blast the whole thing. Be careful of a non permeable finish on concrete on grade as the soil born moisture will migrate through the concrete. Read product ads for this kind of finish with a good degree of skepticism
  14. Matt, Neil, thanks for all the input. This should go in a 1940-41 restoration book.