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kgreen last won the day on September 20 2022

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  1. Yes, but Pete is still around and better late than never was my view.
  2. I found the bead breaker part of the Take-Off Tool, the large C-shaped device, in a flea market years ago. That would be parts T-129, 113, 114 and 130. It did not have the handle so I put a steel pipe in the threads. I've used it many times to break beads, then use the old hand techniques to get the old tire off a rim and a new tire installed. That effort can raise a sweat. Would be nice to have the rest of the machine, but then garage space?
  3. Yup, and finally though I have a long way to go to wrap up details and get an interior. I might have overposted this topic, but I'm super excited by the progress.
  4. No, looks like a dirty spot on the shaft. The shaft and the guide are not a close fit suggesting that a seal would or should go there. The valve has to perform two functions when either lifting or lowering the top. Pull vacuum on one side of the cylinder piston and relieve air from the opposite side of the piston. I'm beginning to wonder if the whole system is closed loop?
  5. It took me an afternoon to clean up the seat frame and track. Seems that the the seat pivot point in the center of the seat commonly breaks. I have a list of things to start correcting including the brakes as the junction block is leaking. Still not keen on the engine operation, idling high and it has not smoothed out. Need to clean up and paint the air cleaner. Windshield wipers work great, I didn't realize that they are a single speed wiper. Oil spatter on the windshield got spread out nicely. Still have the trunk wood to finish as well. One of the parts cars had the wood for a pattern, but physical damage from drywood termites while the car was in South Florida converted much of the interior of the wood into dust. I finished the heater, but the defroster still needs cleaning and painting. Other than the junction block for the brakes, I don't see any other leaks worth fussing over. I have body color wheels with the pin stripes already painted. The wheel shields are safely tucked away for later. I'll get white wall tires as they were standard issue on this model car. Here's the dirty mechanics wave and the wife who has yet to learn how much she spent on this car.
  6. Yes, I did. The engine had no problem with the hill but the very old (way too old) Montgomery Ward tires spun; left several thousand miles worth of rubber on the concrete. They are pretty slick since they have hardened. I'll get new tires this summer while Mr. Pruitt gets the interior and top installed.
  7. Still a lot of work to do and many issues to be sorted yet, trial run because I couldn't wait to drive it. My retread Montgomery Ward tires are possibly 30-50 years old. Strictly rollers, and I'll have new tires by the time the car comes back from upholstery.
  8. I'm looking for someone familiar with this valve to tell me how it is sealed. I don't believe it should leak in the neutral position. Has anyone attempted to recover one of these valves?
  9. The vacuum valve leaks horribly in its three positions; up, neutral and down. There is no evidence that the valve ever contained seals internally or at the valve stem. The rear of the valve appears vented. The shop manual is of no help. The vacuum valve in this case belongs to a 2-door 1940 Buick Roadmaster. Only the 2-door models had vacuum actuators to lower and raise the top; not the 4-door models. I suspect that this valve was used for other years of GM 2-door cars such as the Cadillac, possibly from the later '30's through the late 40's? The following are photos of the valve: rear end of the valve: Front of the valve with the valve stem:
  10. Good morning Pete. I wasn't around this forum in 2010, but found this post during my search for answers to a valve problem. This is not the convertible top valve. This is what the convertible top valve looks like:
  11. Unless you want wall decorations in your garage, they are rather useless. What you are going through with his belongings is similar to what your kids and my kids will go through someday. This is a good time to make a future generation of our families happy and toss now rather than later or not at all.
  12. This weekend is dedicated to searching for vacuum leaks in the pneumatic convertible top system, modifying the floor plate at the brake/clutch pedal and reinstalling all the cylinder locks that Frank Duval rekeyed for me. Thanks Frank! The convertible top takes a large vacuum line off the manifold. When I removed the connection on this line to take vacuum measurements, the engine performance improved dramatically: Leaks abound. I'll access the pneumatic cylinders and fill each with a little neatsfoot oil, not "prime" neatsfoot oil as that is a mix of other oils that could foul or bind the seals. The floor plate at the clutch and brake pedal is incorrect in that the plate has 5-inches center to center for the brake and clutch while my car has 5 1/2-inches ctr to ctr. I'll cut the panel and relocate the hole. Odd, I've asked others about this but all my linkage lines up straight. While I'm here, I'll share a "before" photo of the car. the initial car that I bought was missing numerous parts and had a 1941 engine. I was fortunate to find another of these fairly scarce vehicles so I chopped up the red primer and gray primer cars yielding one primary car. The chassis provided the later model year production engine, transmission and 3.6 rear end. The coupe was a gift when I bought the grey convertible. It provided a good number of detail parts such as clips, engine pans, extra carb, gages and some chassis parts. The coupe was ultimately sold. All other cars have been reduced to a pile of worthless parts. None of the cars had the correct 15-inch wheels, fortunately a donor car in Los Angeles provided them.
  13. The darn fuel pump neck is supposed to seal around the lip of the filling point to capture vapors. I know the filler neck on pumps in CA are particularly touchy, other pumps elsewhere possibly less so.
  14. The 1940 is different than the '41 at this location. If the keyed section below is worn or damaged, then you will have slop in the clutch pedal. The brake pedal has a return spring so that pedal is not affected.
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