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kgreen last won the day on July 12 2018

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About kgreen

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  • Birthday 06/17/1957

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    Atlanta, GA

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  1. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    Old one above, new one below The new one is a little different at the base, but I'm accepting it as close enough.
  2. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    This is what mine looked like (below). I wonder if someone cut yours short?
  3. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    I had Kris Arneson revulcanize my old one. The original had deteriorated like everyone else's but was still a good pattern. The seal is made up of two different pieces of sheet metal with the rubber holding them together at roughly a 30% angle. It is backed by insulation and is slipped onto the steering column before the turn signal assembly is installed. I recall there being two screws holding the piece onto the horizontal portion of the firewall. I do not recall what it cost me to have this part revulcanized as I also have my stone guards done at the same time.
  4. Since you mention that you are new to this, here is a website for beginners that gives you a good general idea for engine rebuilding. Yes, the engine features is different so just focus on the concepts. The straight 8 has peculiarities and that is where this board will be most helpful. One of the processes you describe is called re-sleeving which is what you do if the cylinder(s) are in very bad shape or are at the end of their overboard possibility. Here in Atlanta that costs about $150 per cylinder (where are you?) A new piston would be less than that. The decision can't be made until you measure to determine the bore is worn with a taper or out of round. Remember: bag-n-tag, measure everything then decide your coarse of action.
  5. That's quite a mess of leaves and relocated seat stuffing in your old 58. Have you been photographing the disassembly for future posterity? I've been told that when a car is disassembled it can take three garage stalls to hold all the loose parts. I've stripped my car and one chassis in a two car garage and can confirm the space required. I spent a couple hours last night just cataloging parts that I have already bagged and labeled so I can find stuff later when needed. What a chore!
  6. kgreen

    1940 76C Reconstruct

    Yes, but very rusty, I've since come across the ones that go before and aft of the muffler, but not the rear most hanger. I've kept the rust ones as a pattern. Need photos and measurements? I have totally stripped the chassis of everything but the two shipping brackets located on the frame ahead of the rear axle. With great reluctance, I disposed of the frame. I also created a photo log of every piece that I removed and would be glad to share that with you. The photo log shows placement of everything that remained on the car. The car was mostly unmolested but had the typical repairs required for wear.
  7. kgreen

    41 Buick

    I've heard experts refer to the definition of a phaeton as an open car (convertible) with side curtains and the open car with roll up windows as a convertible. I'm leery of this definition. Buick made a 51C (Super) and a 76C (Roadmaster), and have also heard both of them referred to as phaetons.
  8. kgreen

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    When my brother looked at the filler door lock on my car he thought it was installed by someone recently. "People didn't steal gas back then did they?" Well, it's not like we just invented crime! Your gas door looks great, also appears you have the correct key to operate it. The back of your door is black, is that the color of the underside of your fenders as well?
  9. Fixed it, phew that was awfully poor wording on my part, thanks!
  10. kgreen

    Abandoned but not forgotten

    Knowing your affinity for Riviera's, this photo to you would be like showing a broken bottle of Ripple to a drunk. I'm so sorry.
  11. My first car in 1973 when the car was only 33 years old and I had just started high school. The car was complete and came from CA; it didn't run. I had spent summers cleaning old grease from the chassis, rebuilding engine, carburetor, generator, etc and wire brushing surface rust. At $1.65 an hour on a part time job the restoration was going to take years. I had just about finished rebuilding the engine when I started college. I was out of time and the car was sold.
  12. kgreen

    1940 76C Reconstruct

    Yes, I will want to run a new steel line similar to initial manufacture. I hadn't looked for the replacement section of the fuel line yet as I am not as far into the work as you are. From this discussion, I would consider having a hydraulic shop fabricate the crimped rubber to steel line then I would bend it to fit. I'm not sure if I could beat the roughly $20 cost from Cars, but I wouldn't be too far off.
  13. kgreen

    1940 76C Reconstruct

    Nice work Matt. What are you using for reference material?
  14. kgreen

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    Mike: I can't remember which medium we were discussing your rear license plate bracket so I'm responding with an idea here. The stand-off from the trunk lid to the vertical upright is a rolled tube of sheet metal stock. I think that is the part you're missing. As I cleaned a few things in the garage this weekend, I noticed the torsion bar links have nearly the same rolled tube. Think that would work if cut to length? Remember also that there was a rubber end at the deck lid to prevent rattles (and scratching).
  15. kgreen

    1940 76C Reconstruct

    The fuel line runs outside of the right frame rail and is clipped. This is the donor chassis and the clips had all rusted away, and on this chassis, the fuel line was cut at the rear when the gas tank was removed. The fuel line goes through the frame rail at a point near the rear attachment of the battery tray. Not grommet, there are two of them; one inside and one on the outside of the frame rail. The metal fuel line exists the frame rail through rubber grommets and has a flare connection to the final fuel line segment feeding the fuel pump. The factory line feeding the fuel pump was rubber at the flare connection just inside the frame rail, then transitioned with a crimp onto a steel line that fed directly into the fuel pump. I don't have a photo to verify, but believe the steel portion of the fuel line inside the engine compartment was clipped to the engine.