kgreen

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Everything posted by kgreen

  1. kgreen

    Greetings, and a value estimation..

    Airfare, lodging, ammo, new gun case that wouldn't freak out TSA, licence one bottle of 12 year old MaCallan for AFTER the day's hunt and the box of wild rice for $1.38!
  2. kgreen

    Greetings, and a value estimation..

    Reminds me of that bowl of pheasant and wild rice soup that cost me close to $4,000. That assumes the gun wasn't fully amortized on those six birds.
  3. kgreen

    Greetings, and a value estimation..

    To your original question, this is what the car might be: As to your other questions, I would ask: do you want to have fun or do you want to read about the fun that others are having?
  4. kgreen

    What does btt mean

    Shorthand for "back to the top". Over time the post gets buried with new posts and the original poster (OP) want to maintain exposure to his thread.
  5. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    The two lower pitman shaft bushings were floating so the assembly just came apart. When I pressed in the new bushings, I reinserted the sleeve between the bushings and did not trap it between the bushings. If I were to rebuild the unit again, I would have to use a puller like the one you created. You have me curious about the loose bushings and why they would become loose. I've disassembled two different steering gear boxes. Both gearboxes had loose lower bushings on the pitman shaft, so my findings would not be statistically reliable. What I found amounts to a "spun bearing", a (slang?) term describing a connecting rod or crankshaft bushing spinning after freezing onto the crankshaft. I saw no other damage in my gearbox housing. I'd love to disassemble a third and fourth.
  6. kgreen

    Garnet Red 57 Roadmaster 75

    My torque tube (1940) was painted semi-glass black as was expected for that year. Mine also had a red stripe around the circumference of the tube, located near the carrier. The red stripe was the same paint used on the axle hubs to indicate the rear end gear ratio. I've seen several 1940 torque tubes and all were painted but only one had the gear ratio stripe remaining. I guess we need to give more credit to manufacturing inconsistencies don't we? Your torque tube doesn't appear to have any surface rust on it; that's odd. I would be giving way to wild speculation to understand what you've got. Are you creating a show car for judging purposes? That goal would certainly play into your choice of direction. You appear to have two different color stripes. If one was gear ratio, would the other be to identify the transmission? I like the little rubber grommet on the emergency brake guide. In 1940 Buick used a rubber hose inserted through the hole with wound wire crimped on each side of the guide to hold it in place.
  7. kgreen

    1941 Limited Limousine

    What might pass as a simple machine by today's standards still involved a heck of a lot of thought back in the design days of 1938 through 1939 in preparation of producing a 1940 car. The design team may have even started prior to '38 with carry over use of certain components as well. You are making one manifold, but Buick was going to make a couple hundred thousand of these things so I wonder if a separate team wasn't dedicated to taking a design such as one as you have prepared and considered every angle possible for ease or speed of assembly. In short, you've taken on the task of a team! Nice work.
  8. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    The gear box takes a fairly thick oil but since the pitman shaft is vertical and extends to the bottom of the gear box the oil naturally works its way down. I think the grooves in the bushings and spacer between these two lower bushings provides a reservoir of sorts. The common failure in these gearboxes is the bottom end seal failure. When these cars were still viable used cars, seal failure would allow the gearbox to go dry and the car would be driven without most people checking that fluid level.
  9. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    Just looked at my steering box and the bushings are pressed in with the spacer located between them. I also have oil holes in the bushings but they do not go to any oil passage or relief in the steering box case. Not sure what to tell you though I have taken two apart in the last year and both were the same as described above.
  10. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    I've worked on this part and might be able to help. I couldn't find bushings so I went to a bushing supplier and got piston pin bushings for a 1920's Reo truck engine as replacements. I had the bushings pressed in, you are right, mine were floating in the housing which doesn't seem correct. I also drilled the holes in the bushings which are to let lubricant penetrate to the shaft face. I will check that when I get home tonight. On the bushings, I got the two bottom bushings, but could not find the bushing for the top of the pitman shaft. Where did you find it? As for the thrust bearings, I could find new races for $15 or so but the roller bearings were nearly $200 each. I called a couple bearing suppliers and couldn't get most to even admit to having access to the bearings. Mine are in good shape so I will reuse them. The bushing at the top of the pitman shaft and pressed into the gearbox cover was not loose. I also attempted to determine how much wear I have on the pitman shaft and steering shaft worm gears. I attempted unsuccessfully to mic the width ofd the gear at its' center. Greg Johnson says that overly worn out steering gear was subject to tightening adjustment that tended to wear the center neutral steering contacts in the worm gear. What you would then notice is normal steering straight ahead but the steering would bind going left or right. If you loosened the adjustment, then the car would sort of float around the center neutral point, but be nice and tight left or right in any turn. I'll get more pics tonight of the bushing. The bushing that you show for the top of the pitman shaft looks too big. Is it an optical illusion?
  11. To be clear, I strive not offended anyone, much less so many that there is a line.
  12. Long after I'm gone, I don't want to have posted something that when read, motivates someone to search out my grave and piss on it.
  13. kgreen

    Base Coat / Clear Coat

    The discussion I had with Dan, the guy who will paint my car involved the choice of base/clear or lacquer. Base/clear is very durable, but hard to repair. Alternatively, small batch lacquers are easier to apply and easier to repair, but not as durable. Small batch lacquers can be legally made and equivalent to those used in 50 years ago. Dan says that he can make base/clear appear like original paint by adding tint to the clear coat. That reduces the depth of the paint. I can't tell you much about the single stage paint except those that I looked at were not as UV stable as the base/clear. Here's a link to an Eastwood presentation on this very topic though:
  14. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    Considering that the older one I show is in Terry Boyce's car and the one I had was hardly recognizable, yeah I'll take it.
  15. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    Old one above, new one below The new one is a little different at the base, but I'm accepting it as close enough.
  16. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    This is what mine looked like (below). I wonder if someone cut yours short?
  17. kgreen

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    I had Kris Arneson revulcanize my old one. The original had deteriorated like everyone else's but was still a good pattern. The seal is made up of two different pieces of sheet metal with the rubber holding them together at roughly a 30% angle. It is backed by insulation and is slipped onto the steering column before the turn signal assembly is installed. I recall there being two screws holding the piece onto the horizontal portion of the firewall. I do not recall what it cost me to have this part revulcanized as I also have my stone guards done at the same time. http://www.runningboardrubber.com/contact_us.html
  18. kgreen

    1940 76C Reconstruct

    Starting over, seem to have lost my old thread. Found a "paint ready" car in Arizona, just needed wiring and an interior. Stopped at an abandoned gas station for the near vintage shot. The car trailered fine. I answered several questions of curiosity at gas stops. The car was missing many small parts as it was only partially re-assembled. My understanding is that the previous owner hauled it out of the desert over 20 years ago where it was most likely abandoned as a wreck. Once home, the car was disassembled to inventory concealed conditions and the true extent of work needed to resurrect the car.
  19. Since you mention that you are new to this, here is a website for beginners that gives you a good general idea for engine rebuilding. Yes, the engine features is different so just focus on the concepts. The straight 8 has peculiarities and that is where this board will be most helpful. One of the processes you describe is called re-sleeving which is what you do if the cylinder(s) are in very bad shape or are at the end of their overboard possibility. Here in Atlanta that costs about $150 per cylinder (where are you?) A new piston would be less than that. The decision can't be made until you measure to determine the bore is worn with a taper or out of round. Remember: bag-n-tag, measure everything then decide your coarse of action.
  20. That's quite a mess of leaves and relocated seat stuffing in your old 58. Have you been photographing the disassembly for future posterity? I've been told that when a car is disassembled it can take three garage stalls to hold all the loose parts. I've stripped my car and one chassis in a two car garage and can confirm the space required. I spent a couple hours last night just cataloging parts that I have already bagged and labeled so I can find stuff later when needed. What a chore!
  21. kgreen

    1940 76C Reconstruct

    Yes, but very rusty, I've since come across the ones that go before and aft of the muffler, but not the rear most hanger. I've kept the rust ones as a pattern. Need photos and measurements? I have totally stripped the chassis of everything but the two shipping brackets located on the frame ahead of the rear axle. With great reluctance, I disposed of the frame. I also created a photo log of every piece that I removed and would be glad to share that with you. The photo log shows placement of everything that remained on the car. The car was mostly unmolested but had the typical repairs required for wear.
  22. kgreen

    41 Buick

    I've heard experts refer to the definition of a phaeton as an open car (convertible) with side curtains and the open car with roll up windows as a convertible. I'm leery of this definition. Buick made a 51C (Super) and a 76C (Roadmaster), and have also heard both of them referred to as phaetons.
  23. kgreen

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    When my brother looked at the filler door lock on my car he thought it was installed by someone recently. "People didn't steal gas back then did they?" Well, it's not like we just invented crime! Your gas door looks great, also appears you have the correct key to operate it. The back of your door is black, is that the color of the underside of your fenders as well?