Skidplate

720-930-0600 I'll pay for shipping. call or text

720-930-0600 Front and Rear. I'll pay shipping.

720-930-0600 Front or Rear or both.

720-930-0600 I'm assuming any 37 bars will fit any other 37. Maybe the larger sedans had larger/heavier bars. That would be great too.

Yep, the only difference between the amateur mechanic (us, the guys who make the mistakes for free) and the professional mechanic, those are the guys we PAY to make all their mistakes. A professional is a person who makes his or her mistakes enough times to finally get it right, but never admits it to anyone. An amateur is all the same except we don't know to keep our mouth shut. 😂

I'm sure a lot of people cringe at this but I have had great success with pulling out the seats and taking it/them to the car wash. You have to be careful not to actually pull the trigger as the high pressure will possibly damage the material. But if you run the Soap Mode with no pressure and don't be stupid about it, it actually cleans up pretty well. Note: what most people don't know is that a car wash only works because it uses Softened Water. That's how it works. Why do you think a car wash cleans when a pressure washer doesn't? So wash your seat with the soap setting then rinse with the rinse setting. Duh. After that, take it home and park it on a couple saw horses. Direct a good strong fan on it for a day or so. Check for places that aren't drying. Redirect the fan and repeat. As it is drying you can gently brush the material to help with the loft too. Also note: if the material is rotten and/or really fragile... disregard all of the above. 🫤 Good luck.

114874. Maybe more. Been painted. But stick to your story.

Just posted a Parts Wanted for sway bars. Anyone with knowledge please reply

In Colorado. I'll pay cost plus shipping. Give me a call or text. Thanks 720-930-0600

Was looking at a 37 sedan for sale somewhere the other day. It had been modified significantly inside and out so I was just looking at what had been done. While looking at the underbody though I spotted something interesting. Back story... I've been trying to correct my body role issue ever since I got my 37 on the road. Looked into upping my sway bay strength but unsuccessful in finding any real good options without $5k to invest. Ok. Back to story. Looking at the suspension I spot what looked to be two sway bars in front and in back. As in, one bar right up next to another bar. And the closer I looked the more doable it appeared to be. A few extra brackets to link things together but for the most part, very doable. in this case they used aftermarket bars along with factory bars but looking at it, there really isn't any reason why dual factory's front and back wouldn't bolt up fine. And yes this has every potential to make the suspension WAY too stiff but there's not much to loss by trying it. My question is, has anyone else seen or tried this?

https://www.hagerty.com/marketplace/classified/1938-Buick-Special/f003744f-c540-401c-b13e-4cda7522c27e Not a 37 but close.

Have you thought that maybe you're throwing good money (and time) after bad. Beautiful car but there are lots of prewar Buick (and Cadillac) coupes out there. And since Buicks are a little less mainstream, they are out there for less money than you would think. Maybe all this just isn't worth the headaches. Like you said, time is becoming more important than anything. Find yourself another Cream Puff (that runs) and move on. You can always come back to this one if and when everything settles out.

I have the dual carb setup on a 37 straight 8 that also has the dual exhaust manifold. I went ahead and plumbed in a sensor just past where the duals combine back into one. Then I mounted a gauge on the inside. I think we assume it's a steady reading on the road but it really isn't. You have to kinda average things out. I would watch my O2 on the road and shoot for 11-14 then check my plugs at the house. I'm at a pretty high elevation so I'd also tweak my adjustable jets in the mix. I finally got everything pretty close but it was a process. Oh, and I also used one of those pistol grip heat laser thingies. Kinda watched my engine block heat around the spark plugs. Tweaked a little. Drove a little. Looked at the plugs. Watched the heat around the heads. Rinse. Repeat. But I will say this... especially with the dual carbs, I believe the O2 reading "on the road" really did help.

All of your symptoms seem to be a common group of problems. A thick gasket between carb and intake will help with the heat... but it won't completely fix it. Modern fuel will tend to boil WAY before the old fuel did. I dropped my carb float level a bit. Less fuel in the bowl, less to bubble over the top. I also made a heat shield around the base of my carb. That also helped some. Clogs in the lines are also a big problem. Short of replacing the tank, there will always be crap coming up from there. Filters up and down the line do help but the best fix is replacing the tank sending unit with one that has the filter screen at the tank pickup, or... add a screen to the pickup. Oddly enough there are bunches to choose from online. I fought with various electric fuel pumps swearing up and down that they were the problem. Turned out it was just crap and more crap coming from the tank. Mine was the original sending unit so there was no screen/filter at all. Who knew? So drain the tank like EmTee suggested. If you can, drop it and really blow it out good. Add the screen to the sending unit (and I mean one of those supper fine sock thingies that fit exactly over the tube). Blow air through the whole system to make sure all is clear. Maybe toward the tank as anything stuck in the lines will dislodge going back the other direction. Make sure your fuel pump is really clean since you're really starting fresh. Install those plastic disposable see-through filters wherever you can. The glass screen filters look cool but they aren't as effective. Make sure you're clean, up to and including into the carb and you should be good. One more thing. Make sure your exhaust butterfly valve (not sure what it's called but it's right below the carb) is working smoothly. If it's stuck closed or kinda closed, that will add extra heat to the carb and increase the vapor lock issue.

But those aren't Bumper Guards. They are actually Split Bumpers (I think). Not sure I've even seen those before on Chevys. Looks good though. Went back out and googled. I believe those are Pontiacs.