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Skidplate's Achievements

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  1. I too just did my dual carb exhaust setup. Can’t remember the exact numbers but I calculated the area of the two stock exhaust diameters and found that a single (just a little larger diameter) exhaust was roughly the same combined area. So I just ordered a Y adaptor to fit my pipes diameters (I think 2.25’s in and 2.5 out) had my exhaust guy bend two shorties coming out of the manifolds (about three feet long ) at the proper angle about 45 deg from the ground. We fit the Y where it looked the best just below the manifold that would allow for the horizontal bend just past that. I picked out the muffler I wanted to use and he made the rest of the exhaust to the back bumper. the hardest part is finding someone who will still bend custom exhaust.
  2. Oddly enough, I’m not really thinking there’s a clog issue as much as a (the bracket has a small amount of rust in places that lay against the Rad and I can’t tell if it has weakened the shell or not) problem. I asked about the Rad inline filter because I do believe that’s just good insurance for something this old. And I had looked at some of the filters and read mixed reviews. So I was glad to hear another opinion. Hopefully I don’t even have a problem. Just clean and repaint and reinstall. Wishful thinking? Why yes. Yes it is.
  3. I also looked at that filter but saw a lot of complaints online about it being cheaply made. So you are OK with it? That’s good to know.
  4. Sweet. All right; If Buick says it’s done that way then that’s how we’ll do it. Thanks so much. And it works out anyway. I blasted and painted the original (I’m assuming) water pump... and now it’s leaking. So it all has to come off anyway. Maybe I’ll pull the front cover for the timing chain and inspect that while the Rad is out too. Wouldn’t hurt to replace the seals anyway. Oh, and to answer the other question... no I have yet to drive it more than down the street and back. It had very little power and the front suspension was all sloppy and deteriorated. I figured it best to go through everything before I tried to do anything ambitious. There’ll be lots of time for driving when it’s done. Cheers
  5. I agree, definitely the rods. Still don’t know if it will clear. And it looks really clean so I’d hate to damage it. I’m not even sure its got problems, I’m just afraid to find out the hard way.
  6. I read something the other day written by an avid Vintage Rally Car owner and it made me think of all the things on my Coupe that are KINDA perfect. Basically he said “whatever the issues you suspect you might eventually have with your car, fix them now. Don’t hope for the best and wait till later”, I.e., “Pay now and fix it in your nice warm and comfy garage or really really Pay Later when you’re fixing it somewhere on the side of the road”. Which brings us to the subject at hand. Does anyone know how to remove the radiator without pulling the whole front nose. I’m good with removing everything north of the block but I still don’t see any way to lift it out without tearing a number of things up and then STILL have to pull off the nose.
  7. Oh, and about finding pins that are a tad smaller to hold the doors in place once the normal pins are removed.... I finally found a use for all those damn pristene TORX screwdrivers lounging around in my tool box.
  8. Damn, that crane makes the door look really really heavy. But I guess it does cut down on bugging the neighbors to help hang your doors. And as for the panel removal, to be honest, I’ve never been able to gracefully pull a door panel without damaging something... never. And here’s my plan with blasting it. I’m using real thin sheet metal (roof flashing) to slide in between the panel and the paint. Lots of Flashing, even more Gorilla Tape to hold it all in place and a 3’x4’ sheet of chipboard over the whole panel SHOULD protect the original upholstery and get a good quality blast job. We’ll see.
  9. Both good suggestions. Kinda dreading muscling them onto a bench. Funny how light they feel until they’re free. I spect a thick blanket or two on the floor may be in order. Pulled the trunk lid off yesterday and layed it over on blankets on the bench and an old screwdriver rolled out from between the folds. Think I’ll frame it.
  10. Cool. That’s what I was assuming but the kick panel is kinda difficult to remove without damaging It so I wanted to ask before I dug into it. So you agree, the pins just tap out?
  11. Ok, ok... I’ve put this off for WAY too long. Intro... my name is Glen and I’m working on a really pristine 37 Opera Coupe with what I think has around 40k original miles on it. Trying to get it up to “Great Race” standards, I.e., looks good and still hauls ass and stops and turns good ENOUGH. Not really into car shows. Rather get it to where we (my wife and I) can do rallies and tour around and it NOT be too perfect to drive. Don’t get me wrong, I think it’s great that we can all see things differently and project that in how we play with our toys. If everyone did the same things it would be a very crowded field. Anyway, bought this a year or so ago. Trying to make it reliable. Not such a purest that I’m afraid to upgrade things. Just don’t want to be drilling holes or cutting panels. I guess my beliefs are, you can either look at it in all its perfection, or you can drive it. You can’t do both and I’ve decided. Let someone else check for authentic bolts but “It ain’t gonna be me”. Cheers.
  12. Hey guys.... and girls, here’s my question. I’m getting ready to remove my doors to have them blasted. I’m assuming to remove them off the hinges, one just has to knock the pins up and out. The question is, how do I disconnect the Door Stops. If I don’t have to, I want to keep the door interior panels attached. This leaves me with coming in at the kick panel, equally difficult to get at but better to go in the correct way than to find out after I’ve removed the wrong panel. Open to input.
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