Skidplate

720-930-0600 I'll pay for shipping. call or text

720-930-0600 Front and Rear. I'll pay shipping.

720-930-0600 Front or Rear or both.

720-930-0600 I'm assuming any 37 bars will fit any other 37. Maybe the larger sedans had larger/heavier bars. That would be great too.

Yep, the only difference between the amateur mechanic (us, the guys who make the mistakes for free) and the professional mechanic, those are the guys we PAY to make all their mistakes. A professional is a person who makes his or her mistakes enough times to finally get it right, but never admits it to anyone. An amateur is all the same except we don't know to keep our mouth shut. 😂

I'm sure a lot of people cringe at this but I have had great success with pulling out the seats and taking it/them to the car wash. You have to be careful not to actually pull the trigger as the high pressure will possibly damage the material. But if you run the Soap Mode with no pressure and don't be stupid about it, it actually cleans up pretty well. Note: what most people don't know is that a car wash only works because it uses Softened Water. That's how it works. Why do you think a car wash cleans when a pressure washer doesn't? So wash your seat with the soap setting then rinse with the rinse setting. Duh. After that, take it home and park it on a couple saw horses. Direct a good strong fan on it for a day or so. Check for places that aren't drying. Redirect the fan and repeat. As it is drying you can gently brush the material to help with the loft too. Also note: if the material is rotten and/or really fragile... disregard all of the above. 🫤 Good luck.

114874. Maybe more. Been painted. But stick to your story.

Just posted a Parts Wanted for sway bars. Anyone with knowledge please reply

In Colorado. I'll pay cost plus shipping. Give me a call or text. Thanks 720-930-0600

Was looking at a 37 sedan for sale somewhere the other day. It had been modified significantly inside and out so I was just looking at what had been done. While looking at the underbody though I spotted something interesting. Back story... I've been trying to correct my body role issue ever since I got my 37 on the road. Looked into upping my sway bay strength but unsuccessful in finding any real good options without $5k to invest. Ok. Back to story. Looking at the suspension I spot what looked to be two sway bars in front and in back. As in, one bar right up next to another bar. And the closer I looked the more doable it appeared to be. A few extra brackets to link things together but for the most part, very doable. in this case they used aftermarket bars along with factory bars but looking at it, there really isn't any reason why dual factory's front and back wouldn't bolt up fine. And yes this has every potential to make the suspension WAY too stiff but there's not much to loss by trying it. My question is, has anyone else seen or tried this?

https://www.hagerty.com/marketplace/classified/1938-Buick-Special/f003744f-c540-401c-b13e-4cda7522c27e Not a 37 but close.

Have you thought that maybe you're throwing good money (and time) after bad. Beautiful car but there are lots of prewar Buick (and Cadillac) coupes out there. And since Buicks are a little less mainstream, they are out there for less money than you would think. Maybe all this just isn't worth the headaches. Like you said, time is becoming more important than anything. Find yourself another Cream Puff (that runs) and move on. You can always come back to this one if and when everything settles out.

I have the dual carb setup on a 37 straight 8 that also has the dual exhaust manifold. I went ahead and plumbed in a sensor just past where the duals combine back into one. Then I mounted a gauge on the inside. I think we assume it's a steady reading on the road but it really isn't. You have to kinda average things out. I would watch my O2 on the road and shoot for 11-14 then check my plugs at the house. I'm at a pretty high elevation so I'd also tweak my adjustable jets in the mix. I finally got everything pretty close but it was a process. Oh, and I also used one of those pistol grip heat laser thingies. Kinda watched my engine block heat around the spark plugs. Tweaked a little. Drove a little. Looked at the plugs. Watched the heat around the heads. Rinse. Repeat. But I will say this... especially with the dual carbs, I believe the O2 reading "on the road" really did help.

All of your symptoms seem to be a common group of problems. A thick gasket between carb and intake will help with the heat... but it won't completely fix it. Modern fuel will tend to boil WAY before the old fuel did. I dropped my carb float level a bit. Less fuel in the bowl, less to bubble over the top. I also made a heat shield around the base of my carb. That also helped some. Clogs in the lines are also a big problem. Short of replacing the tank, there will always be crap coming up from there. Filters up and down the line do help but the best fix is replacing the tank sending unit with one that has the filter screen at the tank pickup, or... add a screen to the pickup. Oddly enough there are bunches to choose from online. I fought with various electric fuel pumps swearing up and down that they were the problem. Turned out it was just crap and more crap coming from the tank. Mine was the original sending unit so there was no screen/filter at all. Who knew? So drain the tank like EmTee suggested. If you can, drop it and really blow it out good. Add the screen to the sending unit (and I mean one of those supper fine sock thingies that fit exactly over the tube). Blow air through the whole system to make sure all is clear. Maybe toward the tank as anything stuck in the lines will dislodge going back the other direction. Make sure your fuel pump is really clean since you're really starting fresh. Install those plastic disposable see-through filters wherever you can. The glass screen filters look cool but they aren't as effective. Make sure you're clean, up to and including into the carb and you should be good. One more thing. Make sure your exhaust butterfly valve (not sure what it's called but it's right below the carb) is working smoothly. If it's stuck closed or kinda closed, that will add extra heat to the carb and increase the vapor lock issue.

But those aren't Bumper Guards. They are actually Split Bumpers (I think). Not sure I've even seen those before on Chevys. Looks good though. Went back out and googled. I believe those are Pontiacs.

Does it keep running when you disconnect the battery?

If all of that was already done, is it possible the thermostat was installed backwards?

Not sure if they make a 6v version but you can get a lookalike alternator that has all the regulation internal. Basically takes all the external unknowns out. Runs straight to your starter/battery. And that's it. Here is the mistake that most people make. They disregard the existing wiring configuration because THAT could not be the problem. They disconnect this and that and make sure all goes back the way it was but they never actually Check The Wiring. So here is what I would suggest. Disconnect everything you can find that isn't associated with just the starter, the coil and the battery. If you have voltage to the coil and you turn the starter, the car will start with nothing else connected. Start the vehicle and check the voltage at the battery. If you have to go buy a cheap multimeter then do it. If you don't know how to work it then Google it. It ain't that difficult. Set it to DC and see what you read at the positive terminal. if it's still bad go back and check the wiring at the regulator. And I mean actually look at each connection. There are many charts that show how it should be wired. Assume nothing. I suspect something was wired wrong when the harness was installed and it has never been corrected. Google how each component should be connected. Again, if you've removed everything, there won't be much left to be wrong. If you get that far and there is good voltage to the battery then start reconnecting things and watch the voltage at the battery. If you already found the problem then the rest is gravy and if you haven't then the problem should present itself as you reconnect. Just remember "The guys at ORieley will NEVER fix your problem. Only YOU can do that".

If you open up everything radiator related (drain plug and fill cap) and while the radiator is full but draining, you should be able to get some response from blowing air into that side drain hole on the block. As in, since the side petcock isn't doing anything anyway, remove it while you're working. Be aware not to just let her rip when you blow the air in. Maybe swing the blower from side to side across the hole until and even after water starts coming out. And once you start getting some flow, don't be surprised if it clogs back up again and again. Fill the radiator as much as it will take... start the engine... open the bottom petcock and remove the cap... blow into the side again... add more water at the radiator... Rinse. Repeat. Until nothing else dirty comes out. Note: You can also remove your temp sensor and blow in through that to break things apart. I just left mine out and plugged it with a matching thread plug until all was clean to my liking. I put it back together just before adding my coolant. At that point go ahead and put everything back together. Put in your acidic solution of choice and run it awhile. If you seem to have movement from your radiator through your engine (And you'll know if the side petcock drains out hot water). Then you've probably made substantial headway. Go ahead and drain and rinse everything out. Fill with your coolant of choice and run it awhile. As in a month or two or longer. If you have one of those radiator-to-engine filter thingys that connects between your engine block and radiator that you can see through then put that in and watch it for those few months (and clean as necessary). If all stays clean then good for you. If it doesn't then chalk it all up to being umpteen years old and maybe do it all again until you're happy with its condition. I've never had much luck with acidic products. Not saying they don't work. Just no luck for me. If it's so weak to where it won't hurt anything internal, it doesn't really work. And if it's strong enough to actually do something substantial, it eats through something you probably didn't want eaten.

I have the 41-42 dual carb intake and exhaust manifold on my 37 248. Bolted right up. The only issue I had, I needed to machine Carb Spacers (1/2'" heat risers) to tilt the crabs forward to correct for the later manifolds Backward Tilt. It would seem that the later engines didn't set in the cars level I.e., the transmission was a bit lower than the engine. All of my exhaust system was custom to accommodate the dual outlets but they probably would have been pretty close if not for the DUAL factor. Not sure that helps to answer your question though.

Ok, I'll give you that 90% of every woe that this country has, would be solved by a far better educate public. No Child Left Behind was probably the worst educational mistake ever made. But an old guy once told me, a friend of mine who was much older and wiser than I... he said. "Stand on any busy street corner and look at the condition of the cars passing through. See how many are new and how many are old and need repair. And look at how many tractor/trailers pass through and in what condition they are in. Look at the various Company Trucks and see if they are new or newer or barely rolling through. That will tell you far more about the state of the economy than any economist can." So then, what does YOUR street corner tell YOU?

Ah the ever-present "Prices These Days" complaint... or was it "Kids These Days"? No matter, it's all the same. Let's look at this a bit differently. When times are hard, prices are low because no one can afford anything extra and the demand for toys is down. And when times are good, yes now we can afford a few extras (namely TOYS) but guess what? Now those toys are more expensive because people can finally afford them and the demand is up. What's that expression... something about having your cake and eating it too or something or other? And deals DO come up on CL every day, but if you dick around and wait for an even better deal, it'll be gone and you'll complain that it Happened Too Fast. I.e., ya snooze, ye loose. Chop chop

I tried that just recently and found that the original 6v bulbs used in my dash (that were brand new) at 12v didn't last very long. Really not long at all. 12v bulbs seem to work fine in a 6v environment (as in, they won't burn out) but I don't think they shine as bright as with 12v... or as bright as do 6v bulbs shine in 6 volts. And I haven't found LED substitutes that span that voltage range either. But I will say, (and this is not to prove some point for or against 6 or 12 volts)... the slightly more modern headlight bulbs that run on 12v but still fit nicely in the original headlight can, are substantially brighter than the original 6v.

Oh I don't know Morgan. Maybe it has to do with the nature of cars themselves. Every year, every modern automobile out there gets something converted from one thing to something else. Every race track in the world is running cars that have been converted and improved and tweaked and modified to be something better than they were before. And more often than not, every one of those cutting edge improvements ends up on our standard factory off-the-lot cars a few years later. The only vintage car that is able to remain exactly as built is most likely a car that either never goes anywhere or only limps down the street to the car show twice a year or around the little town now and then that its been located in for the last forever. The cars that DO actually get driven and DO actually go places are (whether you like it or not) cars that have been modified in some way or other to make them even remotely drivable with parts that can actually be had if and when something fails. Whether it's a change of voltage or a better carburetor or even yes a better transmission with OMG more than just 3 gears. Even modern oils are so far superior to the original, only a fool would not upgrade when at all possible. So yes, if I can gracefully upgrade my vintage automobile from 6v to 12v for much better and safer lighting and much more reliable and cleaner fuel burning and more capacity for optional equipment that might help me NOT end up stranded on the side of the road somewhere without permanently destroying the originality of the car... I might (and probably will) do just that. I'll also be that guy who can and does often drive my vintage cars as far and as wide as humanly possible for as long as I'm able to do it. Call me a rebel... please.

This may be a late reply but... I didn't see any mention of you using any type of penetrating oil on this vehicle. You might not think this will have any effect but with a sizable amount of patience, you might be surprised. Decide on what product or concoction is your choosing. Spray or brush onto everything and anything in question then wait. Repeat this every day or so for however long it takes for things to start loosening up. Then after you've done this for a number of days or weeks, then you can apply a little heat to the outer layer of metal. ****Note: Never apply any heat to sheet metal.**** That is very bad juju. Only to nuts or whatever is surrounding the nut. Remember that heat makes metal expand. If you heat the inner metal it will only get tighter. But if you heat the outer I.e., a nut for example, it will expand AWAY from the bolt. Also, the absolute smallest source of heat you can find is most times the best. Stay away from frames with heat also. Only heavy metal. Also you're suggesting that some bolts are very difficult to get AT. That's probably because as things are being built, the inner construction is being covered over by the outer construction. So if there is any way (and there always is) you want to bite the bullet and resign yourself to removing the outer construction before trying to get at the inner. It sucks but it's almost always necessary. So when I say coat everything and anything with lots of oil, this is where it pays off. And finally... "patience grasshopper". All things come loose in time. Oh, and modern day battery powered 3/8 impact drivers work great too. They're just enough to NOT break everything. Also search up how to remove bolts on YouTube. Some of these guys are brilliant.