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C-Lamb

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  1. Thanks guys, I will definly be spending some serious time cleaning, thanks!
  2. Looks like my radiator needs to be completely re-cored. Matt recommends Dave Tacheny, who I'll call tomorrow, any other ideas? Local shop wants $1200. Thanks all!
  3. Radiator at the shop, they think it's going to cost $1200 to rebuild it if my tanks are suffiicent.. any ideas? Trying to flush the rear brake lines, but not having much luck, can't get it loose at the distribution block, will keep treating it with the ATF+acetone and see what happens. Thanks for any suggestions!
  4. Well, blocked off the bypass (with freeze plug and a 1/4" hole) and it seemed to be running OK, so I wanted to see if I could find out what else might be wrong. So braving the sticky carb float and 50 year old tires (chunks falling off), took a quick spin next door and back... Seemed to be ejecting a fair amount of coolant (out the loose cap), but I'm convinced that's the radiator as w/ the bypass open the coolant in the engine stayed clean. Here are the videos https://photos.app.goo.gl/upw9pievLrssKqBRA https://photos.app.goo.gl/qydrTZ7GTiJNb8dk6 So, I'll take the radiator in to the shop and see what they can do. They said $150, but I don't think they were really listening... While it's out try to flush the block a bit with the garden hose perhaps. Although it's back on jackstands and about 16" high than normal. First gear seemed a bit noisy, but I don't think that's a surprise. Seemed to pull strongly enough and generally be drivable. Next goal, drive it to the town event in September... but I will need improve several bits before that can happen! (brakes, carb float, tires, radiator). Will probably have the wheels blasted and primed while I work on brakes and radator over the summer. It's slow, but better than others. My brother bought a 914 rust bucket just before his daughter was born, this last month he took it to someone to move it forward and she finished her junior year in high-school. My dad bought a '34 Chevy pickup about 1970, it hasn't been driven beyond the yard(and only 1-2x in the yard) since. So, since they started working on their cars, I've had mine less than a year and driven it more! Success! I'll continue to avoid kit-ifying it and work on it an hour or two a week, we'll see. Thanks for the help!
  5. Hmm, apparently the last update didn't get submitted until just now, not sure what happened. Anyway, after a few weeks of running brake fluid and occasionally a few other things through the fuel line, I hooked it to the tank from Matt (thanks!), then reconnected to the correct connection on the tank and tightened a bunch of connections, I was finally sucking gas, but then no spark. I suspected that it had to do with leaving the ignition on for a few days and assumed I had fried the coil and put a new one in with no effect. So out came the emory paper, cleaned the points and the rotor and fully seated the HV wire in the coil and it's back up and running. Next step go ahead and strap the tank all the way in and get some more run time on it, cleaning out the tank and the line a bit more. Hopefully, some sons will be around this weekend and we can drive it into the yard and do a bit of pressure washing. After that, time to install a bypass (or block at least, I think it's open, and a thermostat...
  6. Still plugging away... have straps and installed the tank, but took it out so I can unclog the fuel line. Running brake fluid through it a few times a day and waiting for it to clear up... I can at least get wire in from either end and blow compressed air, so that's an improvement, but what comes out is still nasty.
  7. Still plugging away... have straps and installed the tank, but took it out so I can unclog the fuel line. Running brake fluid through it a few times a day and waiting for it to clear up... I can at least get wire in from either end and blow compressed air, so that's an improvement, but what comes out is still nasty.
  8. Most of the dried drops of very old gas were wiped off on in the process. The tank is empty, but you can see wet areas where it leaked and now that it's out in the light, you can see several old patches. I guess I know where the leak(s) where. Tomorrow I hope to install the new tank while my brother is in town. While I was at the back of the car, I realized that with it on jack stands it was the perfect time to look at the rear frame. It's pretty clear that I have a short frame and no sign of an fix! Anyone have good pictures of how the factory fix attached? Thanks!
  9. Sorry to hear about that, thanks for the heads up. If Bull City Radiator can't do my work, I was planning to take it to Bobby's. 😞 Tonight I went out to finshing removing the tank in preparation to put the new one from Matt in. It was a bit hard to get to the junction in the fuel line, but even after all these years, it unscrewed easily and the tank is out. Picture to follow in a few minutes...
  10. Thanks to MCHinson for the tank! Made it home uneventfully and hoping to start on the install in a week or two... next weekend is blocked unfortunately, and I think I'll have to work tomorrow.
  11. Rebuilt the fuel pump after getting a kit for Christmas but been kind of slow with other stuff... After the rebuild, tested the pump by hand and it didn't seem to be creating any suction, so eventually got around to disassembling and re-assembling, still didn't seem generate any suction but I decided to try it anyways! Rigged up up a filter at the carb and a gas can on the floor - and success! https://photos.app.goo.gl/WVdc5rcwKdVoeQn19 Next step, work on the tank!
  12. I think I am going to start checking the grounding and wiring into the trunk lid as that's most likely thing that's been disturbed. We'll see what the volt meter shows me! Found the diagram in the '42 manual, so it will be a matter of locating everything. I haven't looked under the dash yet, but I assume the flasher and horn relay are both under there?
  13. Edit - OK I noticed that's a '38 wiring diagram linked to below and I'm checking the the shop manual now... Another question... when we were exploring earlier the rear Buick logo was clearly acting as a blinker, (https://photos.app.goo.gl/ew9sRpFKJvs3zuju) but I can't recreate that behavior. Looking at the wiring diagram linked below, I don't see either the directional switch or the bulbs. Am I just blind or is this something customized later? Thanks again!
  14. Thank for the TeamBuick link, I'm going to have to study that article. I think I found the home for almost all of the parts, so a bit more studying and maybe I can track down the last few... I'll review the shop manual again, but it seemed pretty cursoury wrt the pump rebuild. Matt, thanks for explaining the hand throttle, that was my assumption, but wanted to make sure!
  15. One more question... is there an operators manual or similar to explain all the switch positions and such? Just want to make sure I find all the features. For example, there seems to be something like a manual choke knob/pull on the carb/dash, but it's not clear to my why/what it does since it has an automatic choke.
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