MCHinson

Tomas, I have a later 320 Exhaust and Intake Manifold set that is missing one of the end exhaust pieces but has the center section. The center section appears to be part number 1313901. I don't know what year it is from since I only have the earlier parts manuals. I also have a 1937/1938 Center section that has one crack where one of the exhaust sections attaches. It should be repairable by a welder who is competent to weld cast iron. Since I have a correct 1937 NOS spare center section on the shelf in case I ever need one for one of my 1937 Buicks, I will be happy to make you a good deal on any of those that you may have any interest in.

Have you called Dave Tacheny? He would certainly have some.

Sorry to hear this.

Have you tried calling Dave Tacheny? He would be the most likely source.

Best wishes for a speedy and uneventful recovery!

The advanced school is a fairly recent development. Years ago, you got the standard judging school or the team captain school. As a Team Captain and a guy with a little over 75 credits, I still try to take the basic judging school once a year if I can, although I do the Team Captain School first, the Advanced second, and then the basic one for the third judging school of the year. You only get one credit for one school a year, but taking as many as you can is a good thing. You will usually pick up at least one good thing in every school, typically that comes from the answer to a question from the audience. I would encourage you to attend as many judging schools as you can and take as many CJEs as you can and while it may take a few years, you will eventually qualify for the advanced school. Until that time, I would not worry about it. For the first few years, it is good to get the basics multiple times to reinforce those and the advanced school is probably not really the best choice for you quite yet. While the schools are required and important, the most important part is the actual judging. Experience judging on the showfield with various teams is where you actually learn the most about judging. Welcome to the judging segment of the hobby and be sure to have fun with it!

While I can't speak for her and I don't remember exactly what she said, it was in response to a suggestion from an AACA member in the audience who was advocating for considering allowing restomods in the club. I feel confident in saying that there is no change of direction of AACA, and I do not expect to see any such change. In any open mic Q & A, the person conducting it has no idea before hand what members are going to ask or state. My recollection was that, just as with other questions and comments, she was attempting to be polite and appear agreeable with comments made by members, but I would not read too much into that off the cuff remark. During the weekend, she made a few other comments that I heard that also did not seem to have been that well thought out, and some of them were during a presentation that she should have been prepared for. It is very easy to open your mouth when you have a microphone in your hand and say something that might not be the best thing to say. I would not worry to much about an off the cuff comment. If you don't see it as a published proposal, but as a random comment by a single Director, there is no reason to worry as that does not signal any new direction for the club.

I think you should be looking for a Delco 1118201. If you don't find a NOS one, a new old replacment stock compaitible one on Ebay might be your second best choice. If so, you may want to consider this one... https://www.ebay.com/itm/145588807292?epid=746132309&hash=item21e5c4e67c:g:kmkAAOSwzNxlvKJs&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4KxFj0hMwpVSKosUXAG2Yvv%2FJAkeKWLUiuyn8O922F6pQkWe7hXI0YMAq8hLovfPxMTtJdblrH3AbMLjNC2QYxEXIvtMp9RJanYLQAWeXljfeBEHsnhtIYckyoCShmqC9zFQVVXmZc%2B9SpW8zlKCGFPEZew%2B4TBT05Bd27HI9%2B0OyAoKeCOpEQL4HiRdium3fionjSSIxQM6r1gkUyA6kyTD8%2Fppo9dm%2BgqeiIxTHCfS5UzTHC%2FBesz3Z9i7reTyFWkDnwCXILprcyehmMFG14wK5QcQfoZB6TQXBLNbX9A2|tkp%3ABk9SR9y6xLiwYw

I would not use a drill. All you should need is a stiff wire to break through the crud that has accumulated there. A wire coat hanger should work. I have used something smaller and less stiff than that myself.

A stiff wire inserted into the petcock hole after removing the petcock will usually allow you to "rod" out the deposited crud there so that coolant will then drain out of the hole. I also recommend a 1/4 hole in the freeze plug that replaced the bypass valve will allow enough coolant to flow past the "bypass valve" to the thermostat so that it can be heated up so that the thermostat will open normally so that coolant can flow as it is supposed to.

Looks like you missed it. The November/December issue was what I saw on Thursday when I looked up the link for you, but it looks like the January/February issue has since been uploaded.

If there is no cooling water circulating at all, it sounds like you have a bad water pump. If the water is circulating between the water pump and the radiator but not through the engine, you need to reinstall the thermostat and make sure the bypass valve is in place. The thermostat and bypass valve on this era of Buick both have to be in place to get the correct cooling circulation.

If you go to the Publications tab and click on "Antique Automobile", it will take you to the member sign on page, where you can then click on "Antique Automobile", or you can just go straight to the "Member sign on" page by clicking the link on the homepage. https://members.aaca.org/default.asp

I would try Dave Tacheny. You can best reach him between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427-3460. If Dave does not have one, it might be a good time to join the 36-38 Buick Club. We have other members who advertise parts for sale in the club newsletter. My draft of the March/April issue of the club newsletter has a member who has a number of parts for sale, including a 1937 320 spark plug cover. https://3638buickclub.org/

Mike, I don't have that service bulletin but this issue of the Torque Tube has detailed differential/pinion gear adjustment instructions starting on page 19: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sbJ-SVvL8MTRBw2Vr45dHwNjAAzWs79g/view?usp=drive_link

Yes, Model 66C is a Century a similar bodied Special would be a Model 46C. For comparision purposes, Buick made 2,265 Model 46C's in 1937.

That appears to be a Model 66C, 2 Door Converible Coupe with Rumble Seat, 4 passenger. You might be able to get it running and enjoy it as is, but most people would probably want to restore it. As a starting point for a restoration, that one looks to be in good condition. It is not my personal preference as far as body styles but if you want one of those, you should buy it. You likely won't find another as Buick only made 787 Model 66C's in 1937. I think that $15,000 is probably about the top of the market for that car in that condition, but there may be others who would be willing to pay more just because they want that particular body style and they can afford it. To restore the car will certainly cost more than you would ever recoup if you had to sell it, but buying that car is not going to be a logical decision, it would be an emotional one. Someone will buy it because they love it.

Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. Since I have already answered you a few times on facebook, I am not going to rehash that discussion here. I don't recall if i suggested that you join the 36-38 Buick Club or not, so I would suggest that as a 1936 Roadmaster owner, you check out the club and consider joining. If you send me your email address by Private Message or else by using the contact the webmaster link on the 36-38 Buick Club website, I will be happy to send you a sample copy of a recent issue of the club newsletter. You can check out the club at: https://3638buickclub.org/

Bob, Thank you for the kind words. For the Tamiya #81027 Red paint, If I recall correctly, I purchased it from Amazon and I think it is made in China. If I recall correctly, it has both English and Chinese on the label. A google search shows up several other sources. For those who wish to see the issue with the Optima mounting plate article, it can be downloaded at this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-CQUEozwiHp5lZOqb_zFMuB7XZ9dKCFQ/view?usp=sharing For more information on the 36-38 Buick Club (Which is open to all Straight 8 era Buicks, check out https://3638buickclub.org/

If you can remind me which issue of the Torque Tube II that article appeared in, I can post a link where anybody can download that issue to make it a bit easier for them.

If you were correct, how have I driven my 1937 Buick Century from North Carolina to Ohio and back or from North Carolina to Indiana, and toured many many miles on different tours over the past decade. The car is still 6 volts and still has the original engine and drivetrain and bias ply tires. A properly maintained stock 1937 Buick is good to drive anywhere you want to go. Since mine is a Century, it is even fine for Interstate speeds, although non-interstates do tend to have more interesting scenery. Sometimes I have taken the interstate, and sometimes I have taken secondary roads.

If you want to replace a 1936 320 engine, the best source for a used engine that will work would probably be Dave Tacheny. He sells 1936-1941 Buick parts. You can best reach him by calling 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central. He may very well have exactly what you need.

That looks like the correct original radiator cap to me. In 1936 the coolant system is non-pressurized.

I suspect most of your condensers have been old ones. The old ones rarely seem to fail. The modern replacement ones seem more likely to be junk. It is common to think that replacing the condenser whenever you install new points is a good idea.... Maybe it once was, but now I tend to leave the old ones alone as long as they work.

I will let Bloo or someone else with more technical training explain why, but... No, You are wrong. The condenser is the cheapest, easiest to change and most likely cause for a failure in the ignition circuit. Personal experience tells me that if it quits firing, try changing the condenser and you have a good chance of having fixed the problem. I once did a tune up on a 1937 Buick and it would not run. I removed the "new out of the package" imported condenser and reinstalled the old condensor and the car would run again.