wayne sheldon

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Everything posted by wayne sheldon

  1. An all to often sadness in this hobby where so many of our good friends and advisers are so much older than we are. And now so many of us are reaching that age where our day is coming sooner than we thought it would. My heart goes out to his family and close friends, their loss is much closer and more personal. On a personal note. Organ transplantation is a wonderful thing today. One of my longtime best friends passed away about eight years ago. All of his many close friends benefited from the kidney transplant he had received almost twenty years earlier. The massive and sudden heart failure that finally claimed him may have been connected to his kidney issues. But the quality of his life and the time spent with family, friends, and church, for all those extra years were a gift for all! Rest in peace Graham/Spinney.
  2. "IT came from beneath the leaves!"
  3. Not the same car. The OP car appears to be a '28 model based upon the smooth crown fenders. It also appears to have been some sort of a coupe, an enclosed body style. Looks like an enclosed base of a windshield. I don't have the proper reference books, or the body code numbers could probably identify for certain the year and body style. The one Jeff P (hey there Jeff!) posted appears to be probably a '26/'27, it appears to have what I would call "double crown" fenders. It also appears to have what is left of an open car windshield. That roadster could maybe still be an interesting car to restore?
  4. Chemistry and metallurgy are not among my strong subjects. However, some of what I know about aluminum. Aluminum is one of if not THE most common metals on Earth. It has been known for a couple centuries (If I recall correctly?), but it was not until the late 1800s that a practical way to refine and process aluminum was discovered. Pure aluminum is NOT silvery colored! It is basically black. The silvery colored piece you can hold in your hand is aluminum oxide on the surface. Inside, it is black. I have not seen it myself, however been told by people in the aerospace industry that have seen it, that aluminum placed in a vacuum and then cut, and not exposed to oxygen continues to be black. One characteristic of aluminum is that it oxygenates instantly on all surfaces exposed to natural air. This characteristic of oxygenating so quickly is part of the problem with processing aluminum. It BURNS! And FAST! That has always complicated processing, and welding, of aluminum. It wasn't until about 1890 that they began to really understand and develop ways to really use aluminum. This fast burning is also why aluminum cannot generally be welded in open air. In other words, why inert gasses are used (heliarc or TIG among others) A historic connection to our antique automobile hobby. One of the first companies to seriously begin using aluminum to manufacture products? Was the company that soon thereafter began building the Franklin automobile! For awhile, early in the 1900s, the manufacturer of Franklin motorcars was the largest single user of aluminum in the world! Franklin owned many patents for processing, and casting aluminum alloys. At that point in time, without "laser pointed thermometers", and other devices and methods not then invented, casting aluminum was a difficult process, fraught with ways to fail. Poured too cool, and the liquid aluminum wouldn't fill the forms, resulting in a hot piece of scrap. Poured a bit too hot, may fill the forms just fine, but result in a porous casting that will be brittle and difficult to weld even before it becomes oil soaked. The porosity will also cause it to soak in lots of oil, and quite deep into the metal making it very difficult to clean out and get a good weld. I hope this can help explain "why" the welding of early crankcases can be such a problem today. I often say that history needs to be looked at in the context of the past. Such things as aluminum crankcases were still in their infancy in 1910.
  5. Yet another "is facebook good or bad" thread. The fact hasn't changed. I, and a few million other people in this country, do not have reasonable access to real "high speed" internet connections. I still cannot see hardly anything linked onto facebook. When was the last time I tried it? Right after the last past similar thread on this forum a couple weeks ago. Tried a few links. Saw none. Situation same as before. I still say a facebook presence may be an important part of hobby connections to reach out to the rest of the world. It is a good way to reach millions of people that may have an interest in the hobby, but do not know how to go about making connections in what used to be normal ways. However, facebook should NOT be the "be all" and "end all" way to maintain communication with the rest of the hobby. There are way too many people with genuine interest, and a lot of knowledge to share, that either cannot or will NOT use facebook.
  6. This sort of thing has been going on too long. As little as I buy and sell (cars or parts), I have run into several such scams. Just a year ago, my only modern car (Ford Expedition) died. What made it worse was that six months earlier, I had sold my last running antique automobile (model T), so I didn't even have that to fall back on. In my hasty search for a quick cheap replacement, I ran into at least two full on scams! (Hurry, must buy it NOW! NO you can't come and see it right now! But send me the money and I will bring it to you!) About eight years ago, before things blew up on me, my wife wanted something different to be her daily driver. We looked at several cars online and/or local. Now, I have never really been into muscle cars, but I don't dislike them. And we found what looked like a good deal on an '80ish Corvette (Linda liked it!). Not a big collector value, and the engine "had been replaced with a GM crate engine". I think we all know, that is a big deal breaker for a serious collector. However, as I said, I am not really into muscle cars, what do I care if the engine is only somewhat close to right? So, the low price seemed justified. We're near Lake Tahoe, near the Califunny/Nevada border, and the eBad listing said the car was in Arizona. So, even that seemed doable. But something didn't feel right. My wife was quite good with computers, for many years trained coworkers on emerging technologies. I looked for clues in the ad, she did the internet searches, and sure enough, the pictures were harvested, and being used on other sites listed in other states, with different details, you name it. So we got her an Audi TT roadster locally instead.
  7. Yeah Frank, I didn't state that as well as I should have.
  8. EMF had a quite standard four cycle flathead engine. There is nothing new about building speedsters! For many years now, I have called "building speedsters" the longest running hobby for automobiles. Speedster were being built years before Henry Ford introduced the model T ! I know of a model N Ford speedster, an original brass era-built fabric covered body car, known history, originally finished in 1912 if I recall correctly. I have seen pictures of a model K speedster built before the model T's introduction. The list is rather long.
  9. I think edinmass has given some great advice. But let me add a fifth option. No, it wouldn't be highly recommended. And there are a lot of people that would be disgusted by it. However, over many years in this hobby, I have seen some may be ugly but well done patch repairs that apparently worked quite well. Many years ago, I saw a '27 Chandler that nearly half the left side of the aluminum crankcase had been pieced back together and everything bolted in place using bits and pieces of aluminum plate. Clearly the car had thrown a rod, and whoever got it back together for more years of service. Some years back, I looked at a Sears autobuggy basket case. The two cylinder engine for it had also apparently broken a connecting rod (a common problem on some of the Sears motors). It nearly broke the cast iron crankcase in half!. Where ever and whomever it happened to apparently didn't have access to a good cast iron welder, so, again, the crankcase was held together with many bolts and pieces of steel plate hammered to match the crankcase's curves. Judging by the accumulation of oil and dirt on the motor, he must have gotten a lot of miles good use out of it. It may be ugly. It may not please the perfectionists around in this hobby. But a careful and creative patchwork could make the difference between a running and enjoyable car and a piece of scrap aluminum. Here again. Some good photos of the affected areas would go a long way in assessing the damage and recommending an appropriate repair. I suspect the best repair would be a metal-stitch or a proper aluminum weld by someone that KNOWS the issues with a hundred year old crankcase.
  10. You could try checking with the early Buick crowd. I know that several Buick crankcases have been reproduced due to weak castings failing. I know someone that did a one-off transmission case for a big Simplex. The castings were poor quality originally, and his had been welded several times. I know the work involved with that project, and you don't really want to know all the details. I am sure the transmission case was a bigger and heavier casting, involving two major pieces. I am pretty sure the required machining to align all the gears was more difficult than a two cylinder Maxwell crankcase would be. The final cost was well over the value of most two cylinder Maxwells, but the car was worth well over six figures then (about 25 years ago).
  11. For whatever it is worth. A few years back I picked up a 1914 Califunny porcelain plate for really cheap because it was in poor condition. I didn't (and don't) have a 1914 car, but for the price I just wanted it (a single, only pairs can be used for YOM) just to hang on a shop wall. After I straightened it a bit, I mixed model paint for color with two-ton (slow setting) clear epoxy. I used bits of window screen to fill two sizable holes (carefully cut for a tight fit), and electrical tape as a form on the bottom side. Laid the plate flat and level, painted the epoxy/paint mix carefully to the full height of the plate's surface.and allowed to set 24 hours. It took three applications. One for the near black backside. One for the background color on the front. And one white for missing portions of numbers and letters (part of the "CAL" was missing). I didn't get the color match quite right (off-red is a tough color to match), but it came out amazingly good! A couple people have seen it and remarked how nice it is and wanted to buy it. But I like seeing it whenever that shop door is open.
  12. Good for you Eric M! Over the years, I have had many conversations with antique auto hobbyists on this subject. Most true hobbyists here agree. But for some reason, the hobby also seems to attract a lot of people that truly believe THEY should be financially rewarded for whatever they spend. Every year I see cars for sale where some fool has spent tens of thousands for a really wrong restoration. Everything is done wrong, workmanship is lousy, incorrect (by a long-shot!) materials, everything. But they insist they should get all their money back on a restoration most of us wouldn't have for peanuts. We all know of hobbies enjoyed by as many or more people than antique automobiles are. Whether it is sinking (pun intended) tens of thousands into a boat? Golfing (I knew a fellow years ago that was trying to play a round of golf on every course he could in the world!), traveling, attending the Super Bowl? Nobody actually expects to recover their expenses. I have never kept my receipts, if you buy a car from me and feel the need to cut a couple grand for that? So be it. I have never totaled my costs either. I don't want to know. I do wish I could afford more and better? But my cars are what they are. And I want to work on them and enjoy them that way.
  13. The little touring car parked against the curb on the near side of the curve, I am fairly sure is an Overland four cylinder from about 1920 to '23. It would have been about ten years old when the picture was taken. Actually, there are quite a few cars from 1920 to '25 in this picture, for a photo with a few cars from '30 to '31.
  14. I have a few (very few) cheap repros, and two real originals in fair condition. One rectangular Studebaker sign, probably from the mid '10s or very early ''20s. And one Paige and Jewett sales and service sign (mid '20s). The Paige sign I bought for $40 about fifty years ago, and my wife gave me the Studebaker sign over twenty years ago. I know she paid too much for the Studebaker sign at the time, but I imagine it is worth a bit more now? (Kidding!) Actually, I would almost be afraid to find out what they might be worth. I really do not want to sell either of them, and do have a friend I would consider giving the Studebaker sign to if I did need to re-home it. (And for that matter, I do know a Paige owner, don't know if he collects signs or not?) On the other hand, if I could get enough for them that I could buy a decent car I could enjoy? I am not sure right now that I would want to know?
  15. To me, the word "patina"is right up there with phrases like "barn find" and "numbers matching". While there WAS an actual meaning some time ago, they quickly morphed into buzz words meant to trigger a reaction rather than convey a meaning. "Barn find" began as finding a decent true original car in a barn (generally a car that had been in that barn since about WWII, or before). And basically everybody in the antique automobile hobby knew what meant. Now it has come to mean any old car that hasn't been out for a couple years. It can be found in any place from an attached garage to a back field. They come out of modern shipping containers, storage facilities, and carports. Most "barn finds" today have been restored at least once (whereas before it always meant a car that had never been restored). Many of them now restored or modified a few times, anything from the worst amateurish bad fix-up to show winners. "Numbers matching" was originally used to differentiate a nice muscle car that still had its original major pieces from one that had been raced and abused for many years with replacement parts used for repairs of damage or to enhance performance beyond its original design. That was an important distinction for high end muscle car collectors. Since then, so-called professional restorations shops have gone to cutting part of the firewall and frame from a destroyed car and welding them into a pieced together recreation with parts from a dozen or more other cars. Just so they can claim it as "numbers matching". Beyond that, "numbers matching" has become used on thousands of cars for which the original meaning never did apply. Most cars before 1930 never did have a given serial number in any places that it needed to match. Many cars even up to WWII did not require "numbers matching" identification tags. Even worse today. Many people use the "numbers matching" phrase to mean that the title they have "matches" the serial number on the car. Well, please pardon my language, but, THE NUMBERS ON THE TITLE DAMN WELL BETTER MATCH THE NUMBERS ON THE CAR as the title would NOT be legal if those numbers didn't match! Sorry about that, but I hate it every time I see someone brag about having a title that "matches" the car they are selling, and therefore it is a "numbers matching" car. Since new titles are issued every time a car is sold, a current title is basically meaningless as far as provenance is concerned. Earlier and original titles are of course of value to the car's history and provenance. "Patina" for collector cars started out referring to a still very original car in reasonably nice condition that wore its years of gentle use well. Today? People build "patina" cars. They pick up a rusted out hulk, buy parts that a few years ago most collectors would have sent to the dump, and put together a running pile that actually was not even a car before and brag about the "patina". I do NOT like "buzz words". A car is what a car is. Whether it is an assembled pile of junk, a cheap amateur restoration of a marginally interesting car? Or one of the top ten Duesenbergs in the world. It can be a fun car to own, drive, show off at the local cruise in, or tour with the best of clubs. Or even just sit in the garage and admire it. And, by the way Roger W and James R, Nice cars!
  16. Thank you Billy K! I did discover it sometime later and enjoyed looking over your list! Carbking, Thank you. Pretty much what I figured. I do also have a '10s era brass Johnson. I don't know what it is of off, and have kept it as I may have a use for an earlier small brass carburetor. It appears to be in decent condition.
  17. If you can all pardon a bit of further thread drift. A couple posts including from carbking were about Johnson carburetors, and comments about their lack of "rebuildability" brings a few comments and questions. The 1927 Paige 6-45 used a Johnson model H carburetor. I don't know just how many variations they had, but I have seen at least four different ones. My car had a '30s Ford four cylinder carburetor on it when my dad bought it way back in '67. The carburetor it had turned out to be somewhat rare, and I gave it to a fellow that needed it a long time ago. In addition to the model H, I acquired a slightly larger Johnson carburetor of similar design (I don't recall the model, and it isn't readily handy to look at it). Most of the Johnson carburetors of the mid to late '20s I have seen were made mostly of some form of pot metal. Most, clearly are NOT rebuildable, with the pot metal warping and cracking beyond any level of reliability even IF one could make it work at all (the larger one I have is that way, so even IF it was a desirable model for a larger rare car, it is basically worthless). I also found and acquired a couple of Johnson model H carburetors, with the hope of maybe someday getting the car running with a correct carburetor. To this end, I did get lucky. As I said, "most" Johnson carburetors of the era were made of pot metal. Some, at least a few, were cast in what appears to be aluminum. I did find and get an aluminum cast model H. Question to carbking et al, is the aluminum model H (in decent looking condition!) likely worth rebuilding or not? The casting is rather thin. If I ever get the car put together, and the Johnson isn't worth fooling with, I will just go back to plan B and use a Stromberg or Zenith brass carburetor of the era. I have a couple of those squirreled away on a shelf. Billy K, I look forward to seeing a thread listing all the marques you have seen! I would find that very interesting. Now back to the Viking! I have seen a couple over the years, but there does not appear to be many around. I do hope eweave can get one or both of theirs back on the road, as they were meant to be. Depending upon what pieces are missing? Like with many other cars, a lot of parts can be fabricated with a little creativity and stubbornness. And a lot of parts would likely interchange with little to no effort with other GM Cars of the era. I do hope to see more posts from eweave.
  18. TXSearsGuy, I was hesitant to mention it, but I have met Karl Chulick, and had a ride in his Krotz! It is a beautiful restoration of a very interesting car! I have always wanted a Sears autobuggy, and have come close to buying one a couple times. Once, a fellow in Califunny and I agreed on a price, for his unrestored original car, only for him to pass away a couple days later before I could get back to his place and finalize the deal. His son wanted to get a lot more, so he refused to honor his dad's agreement, only to sell the thing a year later to someone else for less than I had offered. I did eventually get an original High Wheel gasoline carriage project. I may never figure out who originally built it, and I may not live long enough to actually restore it. But it would be a worthwhile project nonetheless.
  19. Notice also the windshield on that car. It is called a "Cambridge windshield". I am not sure of the origin of the name, I tried Mr Google, but all he wanted to do was sell me a replacement windshield for my modern car in Massachusetts. It is a canvas and isinglass wind screen held in place by a fixed steel rod framework. That was the standard optional windshield for the Metz automobile at that time. Many Metz automobiles at that time were still sold without a windshield. I am not sure exactly when Metz moved up to a more standard frame and glass windshield, but I think it was in 1915. The Metz is actually a very interesting automobile.
  20. It is considered a 1914 model 22. That particular rear deck/trunk was actually introduced in mid 1913 and used on the three Metz automobiles run on the last of the original Glidden Tours which was run in 1913 and for which Metz claimed a victory with a perfect score. The trunk became available mid year 1913 as an option on their standard roadster, but was generally considered a '14 model.
  21. The mid '20s Buick sixes had an intake manifold that could with just a bit of minor modification be installed upside down. I can see a piece apparently bolted in the middle of the exhaust manifold, necessary to close off the carburetor pre-heater. With the intake manifold upside down, a downdraft carburetor can be used. While I personally don't care for the idea (I like my antique cars to be fairly close to how they were when they were in use when only a couple years old), several people have told me it runs really nice that way. And, it wouldn't be very difficult to return it back to original type if someone were so inclined. Overall the motor looks like a '24 to'28 type Buick motor. One would need to know more than I do, or check the serial numbers to identify the exact year. It does appear to be the smaller model Buick engine based on the style water pump and radiator connections. I am not really a Buick expert, but I have worked on several '20s Buicks, my dad had a couple, several close friends had and toured heavily with such Buicks. They are wonderful nickel age cars, faster than most cars of that era, and generally easy to work on. I do not need any more projects, probably can't live long enough to finish a few I already have and really want to do. But I would be curious about the price, and the wheelbase?
  22. Although many high wheel gasoline carriage cars did have steering wheels, no production model Sears ever did. All tiller steered. The first official model year for the Sears was 1909! I wish to acknowledge the many tremendous contributions made to this hobby by Floyd Clymer! His publishing company produced many dozens of antique automotive history books! A lot of them written by Floyd Clymer himself. He shared a huge amount of his personal collection of era literature and advertisements, both in his books, and with other hobbyists. He was a founding member of several of the major antique automobile type clubs we enjoy to this day. He was personally president and/or held many other important guiding posts in several of those clubs. However. There ARE numerous errors in many of those books, which persist to this day. And one of those errors was listing the Sears automobile as a 1907. It was NOT! The Krotz prototype (supposedly and maybe two of them?) was/were built in 1907. That is a recorded fact. Actual production began late in 1908, and were sold as 1909 models. Unfortunately, dozens of surviving Sears automobiles to this day are claimed as 1907s because people in the 1950s read the error in the books, and although it has been known for nearly fifty years now that it was a simple error, most families with such misidentified cars refuse to believe their car is not a 1907 or '08. In part because of that misidentification, several owners of Sears cars convinced of their cars "1907 status" have convinced themselves that THEIR car is one of the prototype cars. (I do not wish to get into a debate on all the claims, but there certainly cannot be eight or ten surviving of only two built?). The Sears registry site is (has been every time I have looked at it!) very good and has a great deal of information for anyone interested in the early Sears automobile. If your car still has its identification plate with its original serial number, that will identify exactly what year and model it is.
  23. A nice twist to a couple recent threads. Thank you Cad Carl! To sleep, perchance to dream. Life had never treated me very well. Corrupt politics didn't help any, corruption follows corruption, and greed grows ever larger aided by a government with no real interest in protecting the eighty percent of the people that work hard and pay most of the taxes (directly or indirectly). But it was totally messed up family that really did me in. I have had most of the cars I really wanted, and wanted to keep and enjoy for the rest of my life. Every one of them has been sold to pay bills run up by family, medical bills, ridiculous expensive vacations, often the debt run up by my family resulted in nearly losing the house. Cars got sold to keep a roof over our (my) head. The last running antique cars I had (two model T Fords) got sold a couple years ago. Currently, at 68 years of age, I am trying to work on a couple model T projects, trying to do what nobody in my family understands. Earn my way back to being able to tour with the few clubs I have continued my membership in. What I want today, is probably more than I have a right to. Although I certainly believe I have earned the right to have them, regardless of what my worthless family thinks. I want my '15 model T runabout up to decent looking and tour-worthy, It will be my primary horseless carriage and general antique tour car. I want a model T speedster. I don't want that as an "only" antique, but as the secondary antique, they are a lot of fun for the money! Beyond that, I really want a decent nickel age car! A non-Ford, preferably a smaller midsize car, nothing really valuable, Buick, even Dodge, or any of a dozen others would be wonderful! If I can get the two model Ts done enough, maybe I can get back to restoring the '27 Paige my dad bought and never did. But if I were to really dream? There are two other cars, I really really do want. I had both of them until I was forced to sell them to keep the house. Again, I don't need nor really want any top end, or even moderately high end, cars. Either one could be purchased for under 20K in a condition I would be thrilled with. I want a decent horseless era two cylinder car. And I would really like to have a pre-'16 midsize car. Almost any non-Ford four cylinder pre-'16 that can tour at at least 35 mph. You can keep all your Stutzs, Mercers, and Duesenbergs. As much as I miss the series 80 Pierce Arrow I used to tour with, just those five lower end decent antique automobiles would get me on almost any club tour I would ever really want to go on.
  24. That odd panel at the bottom of the radiator that flows forward between the frame horns was a one year styling feature.1929 only on Chevrolet. Can barely make it out in this photo.
  25. As a person that has been passionate about history since the age of four, I was "taught"about both Henry Ford and Thomas Edison. As I went on learning more and more about both men (and hundreds of others), I found that although I admired Edison early on for his inventiveness, as I learned more, he was a greedy controlling person that demanded ridiculous royalties for anything he patented. Among MANY other things, he wanted and tried to keep absolute control over the movie industry even demanding the right to approve or refuse use of the moving picture process for films he didn't like the story of. In film history circles, all that is well documented. Some very strange different mechanisms had to be invented by others in order to break Edison's control over the film industry, by working around his patents. (Because I worked for more than thirty years in cutting edge technologies including systems that eventually became the internet, I could write pages of modern parallels to that) Taking Henry Ford "on balance", looking at the good and the bad, and putting the bad in the light of the times he grew up in, I find I admire Henry Ford a lot more than Edison. And an absolute truth or two. Nobody is perfect. No two people in the world will agree on absolutely everything. (Putting aside the old philosopher's joke, "There are absolutely NO absolutes!)