Jump to content

Stude Light

Members
  • Posts

    1,113
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Stude Light

Recent Profile Visitors

3,117 profile views

Stude Light's Achievements

5,000+ Points

5,000+ Points (5/7)

  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges

310

Reputation

  1. There might be. It would most likely be in a bin that has other gauges.
  2. Just to interject here....the evening was similar to the show "Drunk History" on the Comedy Channel 🤪
  3. I’m pretty sure I sold all I had. Sorry. Scott
  4. This is the armored headlight wiring. Along engine right side to where the right headlight splits off and is taped at the splice in the same style cloth tape. It also shows the right headlight wire under the right fender and then to the headlight. The armored wire was originally inside of a rubber tube between the fender and headlamp as shown.
  5. Here are a few photos of mine. I used a couple of original wire harnesses to determine correct gauge and even color (as best could be determined). I drive my car so added a period correct aftermarket turn signal system therefore I have some extra wires under dash. If you want some detailed info on wire gauge and armor vs no armor, send me a PM with your email and I’ll send you the Excel file with the details. There was no asphalt wire loom on the Light Six, only cloth wire, armor wire and the steel wrapped loom. What is shown is wire under dash, steel loom under dash and steel loom in engine compartment. Scott
  6. From the R E Olds Transportation Museum collection
  7. The marks shown in the photo are correct and both my flywheels have them pictured. I recall the older flywheels had a different mark, I can look next week.
  8. Reliable Carriers - very experienced and....well....reliable.
  9. Two other shipping options for large or heavy parts: Greyhound - you have to drop off and pick up at a bus station. I have shipped tires and fuel tanks this way for very low cost Fastenal - you have to drop off and pick up at one of their locations. I have shipped engines this way. You have to box or palletize your shipment.
  10. This is not necessarily a simple answer. The 1920 – 1922 Studebaker Light Six used a standard Morse Timing Chain (p/n 43567) with a 14-tooth accessory shaft sprocket (p/n 43309), a water pump shaft gear (p/n 43365) and a distributor gear (p/n 43873). For 1923 and 1924 the Light Six switched to a Morse Type 45 Timing Chain (p/n 120007) with a 15-tooth accessory shaft sprocket (p/n 120012), a water pump shaft gear (p/n 120010) and a distributor gear (p/n 120013). The water pump shaft gear is what I would call the distributor support housing drive gear and the distributor gear is what I would call the distributor support housing driven gear. When Studebaker made this change, the pitch of the timing chain changed along with all the sprocket profiles. This forced them to go with a 15-tooth sprocket on the accessory drive which changed that shaft speed slightly. To compensate, they changed the water pump shaft gear (the one that drives the distributor support) and the profile of the distributor gear (which is the distributor support driven gear). The correct timing chain sprockets are easy to identify as they will have TYPE 45 stamped on them. Also, the accessory drive sprocket is easy to identify just by counting the teeth. The water pump gear is also easy to identify as the earlier part (p/n 43365) has four lobes as viewed from the side, whereas the later part (p/n 120010) has a five-lobe side profile. The later Type 45 parts are on the left in the photo. The issue is identifying the correct distributor gear. The p/n 43873 distributor gear was used on the Wagner and Remy 606A distributors. The p/n 120013 distributor gear was used on the Remy 626A and Wagner K97 in years 1923 and 1924 and on the 1925 ER Models. The difference in these two gears is just in profile which is not something you can see. So, you need to be careful to find the correct distributor gear that matches the profile of the driven gear otherwise the two gears will wear out quickly. Even if your car was made before 1923, it may have been changed over at some point. What may help is that in 1920, 1921 and part of 1922, the oil filler was at the fan support bracket. At some point in 1922, the oil filler was moved next to the distributor which required changes in the “water pump/oil pump/distributor support bracket” and the “distributor support housing”. For reference, the 1920-early 1922 water pump/oil pump/distributor support bracket was p/n 43572 and the distributor support housing was p/n 45344. There is no provision for an oil filler on these parts so if you find a distributor gear of one of these housings it is likely to be the older version (p/n 43873), that is, unless someone updated it at some point. Late 1922 – 1924 would use a water pump/oil pump/distributor support bracket p/n 45183 with a distributor support housing having p/n 45545. There is a provision for an oil filler on these parts and would most likely have the p/n 120013 gear. It’s a lot of information, but as I said, it is not a simple answer. BTW - Studebaker did not offer a 4 cylinder engine beyond 1919 and they were very different engines from the more modern Light Six. I checked the parts manuals and the Light Six did not share a distributor gear with any of the 4 cylinder models, so I'm not sure about the info from Valley Forge. Scott
  11. 1923 was the first year of an all steel body by Studebaker (stamped by the Budd Company) and that was in the Light Six Touring car. That’s what the doors are from. They hinge from the front. BTW - the door latch mechanism was made by Briggs and Stratton. Scott
  12. I’ve restored and readjusted the Remy ones that Studebaker used. They have a cover that is removed with a single screw. Once inside you can easily adjust the cut in and cut out voltages. If I recall, the internals of the Wagner did not have adjustment screws so you have to bend the arms to get the voltages set. I’m guessing the generator in a 1926 is good for maybe 10-12 amps so you don’t need a huge diode. You could reach out to Jason Smith from Advanced Electrical Rebuilders for some advice or just have him do the conversion. http://www.aerrebuild.com/index.php/about-us.html
  13. For the the higher efficiency motors it requires rare earth elements like neodymium which requires an intensive refinement process. The power electronics requires tin, tantalum, tungsten and gold- all require mining and processing. While we make motors and power electronics today, we have to ramp up production of these which will require significant increased needs of all these elements. There is no free beer with switching to “environmentally friendly” EVs.
×
×
  • Create New...