Stude Light

Members
  • Content Count

    891
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

177 Excellent

1 Follower

About Stude Light

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Oakley, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment and now, vintage cars

Converted

  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,574 profile views
  1. Most of the time people get frustrated at the starter turning slowly and decide they need 12 volts when the real cause is battery cables. 1/0 or 2/0 cables is what it came with and after 95 years of “maintenance” they usually have #2 size cables which works fine for 12 volts. I would start with the cables and making sure you have the correct ampacity wire. I purchased the correct equipment for my cars at Rhode Island Wire. Get the 1/0 or 2/0 wire and battery clamps/terminals to match the gauge, solder them on and you are typically good to go for many years. I went through this learning process years ago with a 1939 Allis Chalmers tractor and after a few years of dealing with issues related to converting to higher voltage I took the advice of someone on the tractor forum. Went back to 6 volts, heavy wire and happy for years.
  2. That gear is p/n 16981 and is used on all models 1916-1919 and on Special Six and Big Six 1921-1925 (may go beyond 1925 but that’s my last book)
  3. and a couple more...one on the tour and one during the show.
  4. With everyone starting to plan their car events at the beginning of the year, I figured it was a perfect time to add in the Congress of Motorcars Tour, Show and Swap Meet at the Gilmore Car Museum in May. This was previously called the Donald Gilmore Classic which started in 2016 and has been a great event for the pre-War crowd. Each year the tour has taken the participants to a number of interesting sites and the show has been a lot of fun in a great setting, so put it on your calendar this year and help keep this event going strong. https://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/category/car-show-and-events/ From the website: The Congress of Motorcars Show and Swap Meet features vehicles produced in 1942 and earlier, just like the cars Museum Founder Donald Gilmore was known for collecting. Only original stock vehicles will be eligible to participate, no modified or hot rod style vehicles please. The show weekend will also include a Driving Tour on Friday, May 15th, show on Saturday, May 16th, and club day on Sunday, May 17th. NO NEED TO PRE-REGISTER! Join us Friday May 15 for the Driving Tour or Saturday May 16 for the show and simply register then! See early Gas, Steam and Electric autos, take a ride in an antique car and discover autos normally only seen on static display actually driving around the historic campus! An award ceremony will be held at 3:00pm and will honor the Oldest Vehicle, Best Vintage Attire (best period attire worn by a vehicle's owner), plus two very special awards - a Preservation Award for the best unrestored original car, Best of Show and Gilmore Award. Activities will also take place throughout the day, including demos including STEAM CARS, and very early cars, a whimsical Gilmore 1 - 2 cylinder Motor Challenge and a Pass in Review parade . A few shots from last year....at the Diner was just after the Friday tour and grabbing some food. The other two are during the Saturday pass in review.
  5. Another distinction of Oshawa Assembly is that was the oldest GM Assembly plant in operation. Not that it was old and outdated but it was the oldest site. It actually pre-dates General Motors as McLaughlin started operations there as a partnership with Buick, then Chevrolet built cars there prior to being merged into GM in 1918. Flint Assembly, built in 1947, is now the oldest assembly site for GM.
  6. Robe rail was originally bright nickel plated over the brass parts. They would need to be repolished and replated. The rub strips on the rear of the car were to prevent a trunk from damaging the paint. Scott
  7. 56-1/2" is to the inside of the bow for all the photos. Here are some more photos of the other bows. I did not measure with a square but I figured you could use the ruler in the photo to estimate radius and location. As far as cross sections, I started on that but never finished. #2 and #3 are rectangular (almost square) but I can measure those on the car. #4 is flat along the bottom and half-moon along the top. I have an entire photo archive of the top and side curtains as I disassembled the original top but that is a lot of photos. Again, it is for the Light Six which should be a similar design but just with different overall dimensions. I could always use some cloud service or just put them on a memory stick and mail them to you. Scott
  8. Here are two original 1922 Special Six Photos...maybe they will give a little help? I have all the photos and measurements from my Light Six Top Bows when I had them apart but not sure how much that may help you. They would be similar to this for each bow:
  9. If you find the engine serial number I can estimate the model year. It is located on a pad just above the starter and will consist of two letters (EJ or EM) and followed by 6 numbers.
  10. The Light Six had leather on the seat cushions and backs. The seat sides and door upholstery was a leatherette. Being the uplevel car, I’m sure the Big Six had leather seats.
  11. Picture of the original leather seat in my 1923 Light Six. If you zoom in a bit, it looks like a similar grain pattern. Scott