Stude Light

Very cool. Having the history is worth way more than just the car. Thanks for sharing. Scott

Right, and that is where the extra time (and cost) really matters and you guys that do such top quality work don't always blow your horn enough. Sure a top may look good from 3 feet away but when you walk up to it and notice the evenly spaced stitching, straight as an arrow stitch lines that follow contours perfectly, consistent width on the margins, alignment between features, nicely crimped lift-the-dot connectors and snaps, taught material, etc. That is when you know you've had a quality job done and people notice. I get a lot of compliments on my top and side curtains then people look at my upholstery and say "What the heck?" Yes, I went to a family friend and got exactly what I paid for. It's not terrible but certainly not to the standards that a pro like David or Mark have. Sure I could redo the upholstery but I just can't justify the cost of doing it twice on a low demand nickel era car that might be worth $25k as is. So, my suggestion is to budget appropriately and do it once - correctly. Scott

Another Mark Larder top on my car. He is local to me (Homer, MI) otherwise I would have run it out to a certain shop in Winchester, VA. That is a Haartz Stayfast material. Scott

Actually a paint with high thermal conductivity, such as one containing titanium dioxide, will improve heat transfer but I was considering a slosh (like fuel tank slosh) which will have a negative effect as it is typically a thermal insulator and can have a fairly high coating thickness. I agree that just painting would probably be negligible. Just wanted OP to consider potential negative effects, depending on what his intended plan was. Re-reading...maybe this is just a water jacket cover so it doesn't really matter. For a corrosion inhibitor, I've had really good success with a product called No-Rosion which I added to just straight water for coolant. It also works well with glycol based coolants. I chose water, besides being the best heat transfer fluid, any leaks or overheating would not compromise my paint. Running it in a 1923 car with mixture of copper, brass, steel and aluminum in cooling system and it still looks like the day I put it in 3 years ago.

Personally I would skip the coating and ensure you run coolant with a good corrosion inhibitor as mentioned by others. I forsee any coating coming off and doing bad things. I assume this is just a small area of your cooling system so any reduction in heat transfer would not be of concern. If you were looking at sloshing the coolant jackets of an engine block with some type of coating then you would be greatly reducing heat transfer ability of your coolant system. Scott

I seem to recall that rim loading is significantly different between bias-ply and radial construction. Radials require a stronger rim construction as the belting is mostly around the radius of the cross-section - basically running from bead to bead along the radius which concentrates the load of the tire patch deflection to a smaller area of the rim. The bias-ply tires have the belting along a bias so the ends of the belts are not on opposing beads but offset several inches across the beads. This spreads the tire patch loading across a wider surface of the rim. So, the rim strength design is based upon the type of tire used. Putting radials on a rim designed for bias-ply may cause premature rim failure vs using bias-ply. This may show up as a crack in the rim. I'm not saying everyone will fail their rims with radials but some may have issues after running 5k, 10k, 50k, 75k ?? miles depending on the safety factor used in the rim design.

Picks of one at the National Meet in Auburn last weekend.

My guess is the Type 45 was a new profile that came out in 1923 and runs quieter. This probably became the standard profile and there was no need to further mark the later parts. Now the hard part...can you buy both the new profile and old profile chains based on the sprockets you are running? I've looked in the past - matching up the different parts and didn't really see a difference.

Bob, That sprocket must have "Type 45" stamped on it to be correct. Look at the location of the arrow in the photo I posted earlier in this thread.....basically on the machined center portion between the bolt holes. Scott

BTW - Love that car. Thanks for sharing the photos.

Book shows them as part number 39868 and for a Big Six. Same illustration for the Light Six part number 120398. They look the same but must have some differences...maybe rim width. I was just questioning as they look just like my Light Six rims but they are for a Big Six. Scott

When it comes to the early vehicle names, sometimes it's just easier to use the vehicle models instead. Based on what has been discussed above these are part number 32100 and should fit: 1919-1921 EH 1922-1924 EL 1925-1927 EQ Depending on the year the EH model was called a Light Six or Special Six so its gets confusing. ELs and EQs were only called Special Six. Hopefully you find a buyer.

Bob, Prayers and best wishes for your wife's surgery and speedy recovery. At that age just the anesthesia is a risk. Take care of the important stuff. Scott

Glen, Unfortunately, only a few castings would have part numbers cast in. The rest of these old parts generally have no markings and are just piled in boxes. Most people's collections from the 1920s are this way so unless you know exactly what to look for it is hard to identify. The only usefulness I found for part numbers is to identify which model years and models might be common. Here is a good example...Studebaker right rear fenders. What year? What model? What body style? I have no idea, just know it is from a 1920s Studebaker so unless you have something to match it to, it's a crap shoot. Scott

Bob, A couple of those chains are tagged but I believe they are all used - may not all be Light Six. Glen is looking for the 1923/24 sprocket setup that uses a "Type 45" chain. I'm pretty sure the sprocket on the end of that crankshaft should be marked "Type 45" (see photo I posted for locating). If so, then I suggest removing it. You should find a couple of other accessory drive sprockets in one of those bins. If it has 15 teeth it is a "Type 45". If it only has 14 teeth it goes with the older chain design (1920-1922). I don't recall a spare cam sprocket in those bins but I may be mistaken. If you find one just look for the "Type 45" stamp. Scott