Stude Light

Spinneyhill has provided sound advice. I would definitely drop the oil pan. This is a splash lube engine. Unless I plan on cold weather, I like to run straight weight oil, like SAE30. Personally, I would start with mineral oil, run it for a while until you get all the issues resolved (like flooded carbs and running over rich, etc) then change the oil. This way you don't spend a bunch of money on the more expense synthetic for the first several hours of running. It's a matter of preference on sticking with mineral oil vs a synthetic....synthetic is best and costs more. Today's mineral is far superior than what was around in 1915 and will work fine. I prefer mineral since I have no oil filter and like to do frequent oil changes due to the added carbon you get in the oil from less than ideal combustion in these old engines. I believe your car will take 6 quarts. Just run lowest octane unleaded that you can find. Ethanol free would be nice but there isn't any rubber or aluminum in your fuel system that would cause an issue. A friend has a 1914 SC-4 and could probably help with some questions. Where are you located? Scott

Model number from the tag would be helpful to determine application. Scott

For the Light Six in 1920-22 they used a 3 ring piston with an 11/16" piston pin and unbushed. Then sometime in 1922 they switched to a 4 ring piston with a bushed pin. In 1924 they changed to a larger diameter (7/8") piston pin. Rods and piston pins need to match pin bore size in pistons.

If I didn't buy the LaSalle last fall, I would be really interested, although..... Title Status: missing That might concern me a bit, especially for out of state sales.

See his other post (same title) it has more info

I have these 5 caps. They measure 2-3/4" on thread ID. You'll have to measure your wheel threads.

Part numbers were often stamped at the fold where the fender attached to the running board. You might also try Robert Kapteyn, I dropped a couple of rear fenders off with him about 2 yrs ago - pictured below. I think the black one was from a Big Six, but not sure on the year or body style. Scott

When I bought my current home, about 2 years ago, it had an existing 21 year old pole barn on it. Pressure treated poles set into the dirt, metal exterior siding, asphaft roof and concrete floor. I dug down along several of the poles and along the base board that contacts the ground. It all looked like the day it was installed with no rot or soft spots that I could find. I'm on a 50/50 clay and sand loam in Michigan. There are lots of older pole barns around here and I haven't heard of any issues. I wouldn't be afraid of building a new pole barn. Is a foundation building better? Yes, but I'm just not seeing any problems with 20, 30 or even 40 year old pole buildings. Just my experience. Scott

Dalton made lathes very similar to the South Bend. My Nine by Four Dalton has been a really nice piece of equipment that I've use many times making parts for restoration projects. This one had some surface rust when I got it but cleaned up nicely - WD40, steel wool and plenty of elbow grease (and time), but was a fun project in itself. Here is a pre and post restoration of a lathe in a condition similar to yours

Nice find. You'll have fun with it. This is an extremely helpful forum: http://www.owwm.org/viewforum.php?f=77&sid=946d4fd390c659441a01daf8455dad26 Scott

08054 is a New Jersey zip code

Vinsetta Garage in Berkeley, MI (suburb of Detroit) dates back to 1919 It is now a restaurant but kept most of the charm of the original facade and an interesting vintage automotive interior

Yeah, that's a project alright. 1923 Light Six with some really interesting headlamps.

1920-1923 Big Six and Special Six

The Wagner K96 was used on the Special Six and Big Six 1923 and prior. I'll look in my other book tomorrow to see how far back. Scott