Stude Light

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About Stude Light

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 26

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Oakley, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment and now, vintage cars


  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. In something other than powder's an example from an old Hemmings ad (maybe owned by one of the members here?) - beautiful car
  2. Linus, It isn't hard to re-nickel the ends of the door handles (or any of the other various parts if that's what you plan). I used the Caswell Plating system to do all my nickel work, except the bumpers and headlight bezels as they wouldn't fit in my 1-1/2 gallon buckets. 😁 The only hard part is all the polishing. For the handles, I clear coated the square steel shanks and interior handle ends to prevent them from being electroplated with nickel but all the brass got plated. I've never tried over molding the rubber. A photo of what they look like without the rubber
  3. I think that should be a Stewart or perhaps a Van Sicklen gauge and the face would have been metal. I had a number of Studebaker speedometers and gave a bin of them to Bob’s Speedometer in Howell, MI about 3 years ago. You could try them. Photo is of a Van Sicklen for a 1921 Special Six I passed on to Bob's Scott
  4. Hard to find ones without cracks. You could remove and reinstall it rotated 180 degrees to get the split pointed down. I know some folks have remolded the rubber over the handle. Scott
  5. 😮 I hate getting shocked by plug wires! Had a nerve conduction velocity test once - that was horrible. Constant zapping. I’m like “Okay already, I’ll talk” . One suggestion would be to use needle nose pliers with an insulated grip AND make up a ground wire that can be clipped to the pliers and the chassis.
  6. If it’s just the same four cylinders then look for: - Carbon tracks causing arcing in cap - Bad wires - Bad plugs If it varies on which cylinders, it could be any electrical component: - Points - Condenser - Cap - Rotor (carbon track or gap) - Coil or power to it - Wires - Plugs I would suggest cost free testing first: 1) Running it in a pitch black environment and look for any arcing 2) Dwell meter and look for bouncing 3) Volt meter on power side of coil and ensure constant voltage source If that fails then start going through each component and replacing it, starting with the cheapest first (condenser, points, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil...)
  7. The disc wheel option involves more than just the wheel itself. Each wheel comes with a locking ring so, need to make sure those come with any wheels you find. You will also need to find the left and right front wheel hubs, left and right rear wheel hubs, 12 LH threaded lugnuts, 12 RH threaded lugnuts and the disk wheel tire carrier, which consists of a number of parts. The rear drums are usually riveted to the rear hubs but you can take apart the brake drum from a wood wheel and adapt it with a bit of work - getting it on center with the hub is very important. Depending what is on your car now, the tires may be different too (32"x4" on the disc wheels so a 24" dia rim). The rear axles, front spindles and front wheel bearings are common between wood and disc wheels so no issues there. Special Six and Big Six shared disc wheel part numbers. Best bet would be to find a car with disk wheels being salvaged or sold for cheap and steal all the parts from that. Not a simple job
  8. Looks like they made a few tire changes after 1925. If you know your rim width, then I would pick a tire based on that. Maybe a 1926 Big Six owner will chime in to give their experience.
  9. In the day, tires were measured with the OD (height) and the width. The rim size was calculated as: Tire OD - (2 x Width). So the 30x5 would have a 30" height, 5" tire width and a rim of: 30" minus (2 times 5") = 20". The 600/20 would be a 6" wide tire and 20" rim. These are all very nominal dimensions. Based on tire specifications from Coker and Universal Tire websites, I would estimate that the actual tread width on an original 30 x 5 (which aren't available) is about 4.00 - 4.25" and on a 600/20 is 4.25" - 4.75". So for authenticity, I think your choice of 600/20 blackwalls would be a good one. FYI - Blackwalls was my choice too. Scott
  10. I believe the original tire size was 30"x5" for your car, although you may want to put on something a bit wider unless you are going for authenticity. As far a wide whitewalls vs blackwalls, that is a matter of preference. I think you are right that blackwalls were more correct for 1926 but it's up to you how you want your car to look. When I was deciding for new tires on my 1923 Light Six, I just did a little Photoshop work and it gave me the answer. Scott
  11. I had a similar issue due to incorrect spring pressure on a new set of points I bought, although it would typically manifest at a higher rpm. The points were correct by the book but when I pulled them back out and compared the spring rate to the original point set, the replacement was much softer than the originals. I just cleaned up the original point contacts and solved the issue. Just something to look at. You could also post in the CLC Forum. Good luck. Scott
  12. One suggestion to help diagnose issues. Install a vacuum gauge on the fill port plug and just let the car idle. You can watch the gauge for level of vacuum and how often it cycles. If vacuum is really low or it takes a really long time under vacuum to fill or it cycles too fast or it is completely inconsistent, then you know something is wrong and that information will at least help you think through the mechanics of what is going on and help you solve the issue.
  13. Correct. Very different designs. Special and Big Six share the same design though.
  14. Electric vibrator horns come in two types - the earlier "Klaxon" style in which an internal motor spins a small wavy plate that interfaces to a "finger" on a diaphragm. These are easy to take apart and rebuild. Then you have the style with an electromagnet that vibrates a diaphragm. Those are sometimes riveted together and may be harder to rebuild (never tried rebuilding one myself). You may want to specify type. Scott
  15. Waldron’s made the exhaust (in stainless) for my 1923 Light Six and my 1939 LaSalle. Both were perfect fits. I had an original exhaust pipe and muffler from the Light Six that I was able to compare the new parts to and they were exactly the same. What’s wrong with going with Waldrons? Scott