wayne sheldon

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About wayne sheldon

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  • Birthday 07/12/1952

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Grass Valley, Califunny
  • Interests:
    Horseless Carriage, Nickel Age, Model T, Classical music, Roaring '20s music, silent era films, history, linguistics, philosophy.

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    wfsheldon2@yahoo.com

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  1. One needs to be very careful with these hoods! Because they CAN be unlatched and lifted off completely, people that do not understand them will unlatch both sides and try to open the hood only to have it slide down the fender! Years ago, I watched (from a distance) in horror as I saw people do that. Really makes a mess of the fender's paint! Somehow I found myself in that position several times at swap meets and car shows. I never had one of those Buicks, but somehow I had learned of the hood system when very young. I found myself screaming at people several times at various meets to prevent them from damaging a car they were looking at. I still don't know why some people think they have the right to open everything on a car they don't know about when the owner isn't there watching it, just because it has a "for sale" sign on it.
  2. Mark Wetherbee, Do you know how long that left side panel was made in two pieces? I knew about the manufacturing troubles that delayed introduction of the '15 style open cars, and that early ones used two pieces put together instead of a one piece stamping. I have never heard exactly how long that "fix" was used. I am always trying to learn more about these things. And part of my interest is that I am working on restoring one myself. I totally agree that this car looks to be mostly an original real car, restored, and a really good deal for the money! I wish I could afford to buy it. It would be smarter than restoring the one I have. But for me, my "pile" will have to do. At least it is from an original early '15, however far from a complete car when a friend of mine got it. The body has the original date coded plate like the one shown above for the subject car. Mine is date coded February '15. And yes, my left side panel was also made in two pieces, seamed at the rear of the fake door lines. This is a nice looking car! I hope it gets a good home. It would be nice if I can get mine on the same HCCA tour as this one some day. Mine will be the worse one.
  3. This is an issue throughout the collector car hobby that I get passionate about. And I do tend to be on the less populated side. As background and illustration of my point of view, when I was fifteen, and just getting into this hobby (1967), I joined several of the major national clubs to get and read their magazines so that I could find my niche. For a short time, I was a member (non-active) of the CCCA. Frankly, for me, Most CCCA cars were simply too modern. The more I looked, the more I knew that I really wanted Horseless Carriage and into the mid '20s cars. Between that, and the fact that I could not in any way afford a decent CCCA car, I dropped that club after a few years. I still like them, and I very much respect their place in the collector car hobby. If I could afford it, I would probably have a CCCA car and participate in the club somewhat (many of my best friends do!). At this point, since I cannot afford the cars I really want, I am certainly not going to pursue a car I cannot afford that isn't what I really want. So why does my opinion matter? The HCCA is always debating the flip side of this issue. "Should we allow newer cars as active members in the HCCA?" I am always quick to say a resounding "NO!" The clubs should be formed around the needs and interactions of the cars. Cars manufactured before about 1916 NEED special attention. They NEED tours designed around their limitations. They NEED experts familiar with how to repair them and maintain them. Some people in the HCCA believe that the '15/'16 cutoff is actually later than it should be. I would say I can agree with that, however today we have to work with what was decided half a century ago. So I argue to keep it as it is, and it does work fine. But if newer cars were allowed? I expect that tours would mostly become too difficult for some of the smaller HCCA cars. The situation is basically the same for the CCCA. Frankly, I have seen a few clubs before become "more inclusive", only to run off and leave the cars and members they had behind. Another example of what I see as the error of the thinking. In the San Francisco Bay Area, there used to be several HCCA Regional Groups (most of them are still around). Regional Groups are allowed by the National to set their own cutoff years for local events. What I find interesting, is that the largest and most active of those groups is a "strict pre'16" group. They have good turnouts of brass era cars, very active members, and quite a few member families that are much younger than I have become! There used to be, just a Bay Bridge drive away, another Regional Group, that allowed cars up to about 1930 for their local events. But they disbanded about twenty years ago because they couldn't maintain an active membership. So much for allowing newer cars to solve the membership problem. Although I am not a member, and my opinion doesn't count for much? I feel that the CCCA has watered down their classifications too much already. While there were a few marques and models that many years ago maybe should have been added, and I might even agree that certain cars that a 1925 model was an accepted CCCA classic, the '24 or '23 of the nearly the same model maybe should have been allowed. My feeling is that they have stretched it a bit too far already. As I have said in many such discussions on this subject, "Drawing that perfect-for-all line in the sand is not difficult. It is IMPOSSIBLE!" Both clubs have the same problem. Where should that line be drawn? No place you put it will be right and fair for all. As for the Chrysler model here in question? I do not know the cars well enough to have a meaningful opinion and would willingly defer to Matt H's opinion. Although I do agree that they look beautiful!
  4. Two different photos, and two different cars. Radiator's top shape is the clearest difference. Both are however Sizaire-Naudin. I do not know, however I believe that the first (upper) photo is the later of the two cars. An interesting bit of history about the Sizaire Naudin is that they were one of the couple entrants into the 1908 New York to Paris race that did not get very far. If I recall correctly, they dropped out after the first or second day. Although their single cylinder and lightweight cars with their unique front suspension were often raced in Europe and performed very well there, they were caught unprepared for America's lack of roads.
  5. When I was much younger, about 45 years ago, I got to look closely at a (if I recall correctly) 1921 American touring car. It had had a marginal cosmetic "restoration", was mostly a solid original survivor, of a very rare low production car. Very few remain. One of the unusual details I remember about the car was the rather large cast aluminum eagle that graced the top front of the radiator shell. I thought the price was reasonable for the time, but could not afford it. I was pleased when a private collector I knew decided it was just too rare and original to not be preserved. This fellow owned numerous wonderful cars, including a Simplex, '27 Packard roadster, McFarlan, and even a very early Thomas among quite a few more very nice cars. He kept his collection in several different buildings scattered around the area. Unfortunately, his neighboring business in one of the buildings was careless and burned the building to the ground. Five very good and valuable cars were a total loss. The American touring car was the least valuable car in the building. However, it could well be considered the biggest loss in terms of automotive history in that building. The Simplex and Mercer were also lost, but I know of several others of those. I have never seen another one of those American cars in person, and only I think one on the internet.
  6. You may want to offer this advice to any potential buyer. Or maybe do this yourself. However, some people (including me), would prefer to see the area first, then do the minor repair themselves so that they can know what is being repaired rather than just hope it was done right. As long as the wood appears to be good and solid (no rot), that split is not a big deal. Using a small pick, maybe a small razor cleaning brush, and an air hose to blow all the dirt and dust out first. Mix and apply some good epoxy into the cracks, roll around slowly to flow into the various areas. Then use three modern stainless (worm gear) hose clamps of appropriate size (have these ready and waiting before applying the epoxy). Tighten all three hose clamps over and over again until they will tighten no more. Wipe off the excess that squeezes out. Allow to dry. Generally, removing the hose clamp is not too difficult (although you may bend it drastically in the process). Some sanding and paint preparation will be needed. The reason this is not a serious flaw, is that the outer inch or so of spoke length is the least stressed area of the spoke. Most of the leverage/purchase stress is near the hub end of the spoke. The two collapsible split rims may or may not fit the wheels. Careful expanding of them may make it easy to determine if they might fit or not. I do not know what DeSoto used for rims at that time. Someone else may be able to answer that. The four snap rings are for a different type of multi-part split rim. Many trucks, and a few cars, did use that type of two or three part split rims during the '20s and early '30s. The rings may be as valuable alone as the wheels are. Those rings can be dangerous if not handled correctly while mounting onto the rims they are used on. Properly handled, they are fairly safe, and people familiar with them often need better rings than they have. I actually do need some rings of that type. So I should ask what you would want for them? I am located about an hour North of Sacramento.
  7. Ed, I had to laugh! The one time in my life I actually told my wife (going on 42 years now!) to "keep your mouth shut!" was on an Endurance Run with an open wheel racing car (just a model T) when a herd of cattle was driven onto the road right in front of us! We had to follow that herd for about a mile, and I never did get the stains out of our coveralls!
  8. Back in those days, oil wasn't quite as good as today's modified creations, most engines lacked pressure oiling to everything, most roads were very dirty if they were even paved at all creating dust that got into everything. Automobiles required regular oiling of starter and generator bushings, distributor shafts, spring shackles, speedometer cables, and sometimes any of a dozen other things. Some things according to the owner's and maintenance manuals required oiling every day! This was mostly to flush out the road dust. However, most of those things even today should be given a squirt or two every few local drives, or hundred miles. Some items even back in the day had fifty, hundred, two hundred, or five hundred (or other?) mile interim oilings. These should still be followed somewhat. Some people use chain or bar oil in many of those places. It is stickier and requires adding or flushing less often. In some places, chain and/or bar oil being stickier can collect dust more easily, therefore, in some locations it may be a bad idea. Any oil, especially sticky oil, mixed with fine dust becomes an abrasive compound suitable for lapping valves into a block. You can guess how destructive it can be for a distributor bushing. The simple reason for those oil can holders on the firewall is simply a convenient place to keep a filled and ready oil can for the routine maintenance. A few cars had such holders from the factory. Most of them were an after-market add-on.
  9. Many years ago I had a few. Some from the '30s, '40s, & '50s. And a couple from the '10s and '20s, including a wood wheeled Iverson. My hope was to restore several of them to use with my cars. Then one day, a bicycle hobbyist came by (after talking with my brother) and offered me more money than I thought they were worth. Since I needed the money (one of the kids had run up a hospital bill), I let them go. I do still have a couple items that I didn't have at the time I sold those ones. One, an old cast aluminum McClatchy (sp?) child's Tri-Bike. An interesting thing that can be assembled either as a two or three wheeler for a small child. The other, has some interesting history. My mother (who just celebrated her 89th birthday), was very sick as a child. When she started into high school, during the WWII, she needed to travel about a mile to meet the school bus to go to the nearest town (Modesto CA) that had a high school. So, her parents had to ask permission from the War Rations Board to buy a new bicycle for her. Now, they were farmers. Thousnds of those cans of peaches that soldiers got sick and tired of eating were from my grandfather's hundred acres (I laugh everytime I see a WWII movie and someone makes a snide remark about those "Canned peaches again!"). Therefore, they were generally allowed a bit more than some other people were because their farming supported the troops overseas and here. So my mother was granted a new bicylce, a genuine wartime super lightweight (had to conserve every ounce of steel for the needed war effort!), wheel rims and handlebars painted black, very plain, and very simple. I have had that one since my brother passed away a few years ago. I do need to try to restore it.
  10. I was pretty sure it was a '25, just from memory and the pictures. I know what the '26s look like, and knew it wasn't that. The earlier models ('21 to '23) all had a much earlier look to them, with shallow headlamp buckets, plain looking radiator shells (they did offer nickel shells, but most had the black common in the early '20s), and earlier style fenders. I think if that Jewett could be had for less than $5000 it would be a wonderful car to play with and drive on nickel tours. I am about as broke as can be at this point. If I could get it for that $5000 I would sure want to try! I get curious when people try to sell cars for absolutely ridiculously way over the top stratospheric prices! However, I learned a long time ago that most of those people are dumber than a stump, and pointless to speak to at all. There are exceptions to that rule. A certain fellow that often posts very rare and desirable early pieces of cars on eBad is one such exception. Turns out I know another hobbyist that lives in the same out-of-the-way corner of this country, that happens to know the eBad fellow personally. (I am not going to reveal who it is!) The fellow has been a long time collector of rare pieces, he has made a hobby of preserving these rare and desireable pieces for future hobbyists to restore and preserve further. The high prices he posts are usually about two to three times the realistic value. He posts those high prices to weed out the curious and maintain his control over any negotiations. IF (that big "IF" I like to use) someone that is genuinely interested in something he has, and talks resonably to him, shows genuine interest in doing what is right to restore and use the rare piece he has, he starts getting resonable quickly himself. This particular fellow also likes to share what he has with others. However, living where he does, not many people are going to stop by and visit. So, posting pictures on eBad is one way he shares them (maybe not the way that you or I would choose, but it works for him). From a friend of mine that knows him personally, this particular eBader is an okay guy. The one listing this Jewett? I do not know anything about. And his ridiculous price is not simply two to three times over a realistic market value. That Jewett is priced about 40 (forty!) times a realistic value. I hope that somehow that Jewett gets a good home before the seller that believes it is worth its weight in gold leaves it outside to rot.
  11. I haven't bothered to try to look up the numbers for that car. But it looks like a '24 or '25 to me. I could be wrong about that. I haven't spent more than a couple minutes looking at the eBad listing. Anyone asking that ridiculous a price is wasting my time.
  12. Several possibilities. Could be the clutch disc breaking apart, or even the pressure plate breaking so that the pressure is lop-sided. It could even be simple adjustment or failed pilot bushing (had that one a few times myself!). Could be a broken U-joint, and I have seen rear end gears or bearings fail/break and transmit enough noise and shaking up the drive shaft to make it sound like it is in the transmission. So look things over, grab and shake anything and everything to look for something moving and/or clunking that should not be (at least not that much). All that said, it probably is not any of those. From your description, I would guess a bearing inside the transmission has fallen apart allowing some of the gears to run crooked and/or out of line. Do not drive it anymore until you know what it is. They can look okay, but shift position under load causing the noise and jumping around inside. You should check all the drive-line components, and make sure you find and fix this. I can't help you with specifics on how it comes apart. I have worked on many '10s,' '20s. and '30s cars, Buick, Chevrolet, Studebaker, Ford, Pierce Arrow, Cadillac, and about a dozen others. I have known several people with four cylinder Dodge automobiles, however, I have seldom ever worked on one, and am not familiar with their assemblies. Hopefully, someone that is familiar with them, can chime in soon and offer good advice there. Is this the truck in your avatar? Would you call that a "ute"? Good luck!
  13. A not so dedicated person just yanks the cap a few times hoping it will break and pull out. And they usually will. After doing some expensive damage to your radiator and/or shell. The other problem with those anti-theft chains is, have you ever wanted to check or add water you your radiator with one? Can't take it off. Can't set it down. Cap has to hang there, dangling on the chain. being knocked against either the radiator or your nicely painted hood. Somewhere, I have one of those chains (I don't know where it is). I was advised many years ago to think twice about using it, and after looking it over decided against it.
  14. I saw your post on another thread also. Are you wanting to sell this? Thinking of restoring this? In my opinion, the Paige and Jewett line are deserving of much more recognition than they get in the hobby. But I am prejudiced, I have a '27 Paige 6-45 in the garage. I can tell you that if it is indeed a Jewett, it is not a '27 for any practical purposes. Although the 6-45 was originally intended to be the Jewett for 1927, by the time they got production going, they decided to rebadge them as Paiges. Earlier '27 model year production may have some parts labeled "Jewett", however, they were generally sold as a Paige. With the exception of Grimy on this forum, most Paige and Jewett owners are not very active with their cars. Mine was owned by my father, and never restored. If I live long enough, I would like to restore it, but that is looking less and less likely with each passing year. There have been a few websites devoted to Paige and/or Jewett automobiles (including a sub-forum on this forum).