Matt Harwood

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Matt Harwood

  1. Those Firestones are my favorites--I have them on my '29 Cadillac and I think they look fantastic (at least when they're white). I would also consider putting them on the Lincoln, in either a whitewall or a blackwall. Here's a factory photo that shows the car wearing something very similar. Unfortunately, they are also the most expensive of the bunch in either flavor and if those on my Cadillac are any indication, they are quite noisy at speed. My car currently has 750-17 Denman wide whitewalls on it, and they are quite close to what some of the original advertising shows. I like the blocky edge pattern. Denman blackwalls are still available, but I don't see whitewalls listed anywhere, so that's a consideration. I also like the Bedfords that Grimy mentions and they are on my short list @ $239 each in blackwall and $439 in whitewall. Lucas has the Denmans similar to those on the car, which are $209 in blackwall and have that same blocky edge. I can also get the Firestones, which are $400 for whitewalls and $275 for blackwall. I'm not going to worry about what's in the sidemounts for now. They fit, whatever they are (they appear to be older BFGs). But the bottom line is that if I can't get trim rings for those dark wheels, I'm going to go with whitewalls. I just can't live with all that dark. It does appear that there's been a fairly significant price shift in the past week or two. The inexpensive Denman blackwalls that started all this went from $159 to $209 each, while the Firestone whitewalls dropped from $462 to $400. Maybe that's a sign. That's a lot of sturm und drang about something that is, quite honestly, probably a year away. I just didn't have anything else to do while the engine was being repaired, so obsessing over tires filled my time when I couldn't be out turning a wrench. Right now, I just want to get the car operational again.
  2. I will agree with much of this, particularly the part where you should forget values and just have fun with your old cars. Let the future take care of itself. If you're buying and need to "make sure you get a good deal" then I would suggest that you are the only one who gets to decide what a "good deal" entails. If you're happy with the car and the price, regardless of what "the book" says, then that's a good deal. "Overpriced" cars can be good values and under-priced cars can be a rip-off. Don't second-guess yourself, either as buyer or seller. As for auctions, they do tend to artificially inflate prices simply because auction results report all the fees as the sale price, which makes sense, since that's what the buyer actually paid to take the car home (although as Ed points out, the seller probably only got 80% of it). As most of you know, the auction houses recently discovered the "buyer's premium" in addition to the "seller's premium" and most get 10% from both parties. I don't know how everyone just decided that was acceptable, but I find it a remarkable study in separating fools and their money. There will surely be defenders to appear in this thread who say that if they know about the premium, they stop bidding 10% sooner, but that isn't really the point. If I had a car with a $50,000 window sticker on it in my showroom and you said you wanted it, and my next move was to send you an invoice for $55,000, you'd lose your friggin' mind and complain until I knocked $5000 off the price. So don't tell me it's OK; it's just a sucker game that the auctions play because they've somehow convinced everyone that their cars aren't junk and it's the best way to buy. Oh, and the booze is free and maybe you'll get on TV. But I digress. My point is, that even with their artificial fee-inflated values (which, in turn, feed the price guides' algorithms) auctions are pretty much the only real barometer for pricing because they report exactly how much money changed hands for that car. That's all we've got beyond our gut feelings. Some of us have well-tuned guts, some of us still think that Model As will continue to be found in farmer's barns and purchased for $15. Again, that's why I say if you think it's a good deal, it is. Screw what anyone else thinks. You don't ask people if they think your wife is pretty and if they don't, you divorce her, right? Why let someone else do your thinking for you? I do disagree with some of these suggestions for buying a car. The moment you start to talk about your expenses or how hard it will be to get the car home or paying your taxes, I'm tuning you out. Those are expenses we all face if we participate in the hobby and it's not my job to underwrite your fun. I'll sell you the car, but all that other stuff really isn't my problem. Everyone else has to pay their own way, too. I always appreciate an offer but please don't be insulting, even if you and I don't agree on the value of the car. Don't show up with a "take it or leave it" attitude if you've already decided that I'm 40% too expensive. That just wastes my time and makes me dislike you. 10%? Let's talk. I've got my price up front, you shouldn't be surprised when my margins aren't big enough to finance your trip, transportation, sales tax, and a new set of tires. And please don't ask me to negotiate against myself--guys who simply ask, "What's the least you'll take?" usually don't get an answer and if they do, it's the asking price. Doing that kind of nonsense only shows you're a bottom-feeder looking for something on the cheap, not a sincere hobbyist. You probably want this car more than I want to sell it to you. There are thousands of buyers, someone else will come along tomorrow. But how many cars like this are there for you to buy? Go ahead and walk away, I won't chase you--that's a game I don't play. Should you call back, the reception will be cool and you'll find me far less flexible and friendly than I was before you started playing silly games. Be sincere, be forthright, and you'll find I treat you the same and it tends to be a far better experience for everyone involved. Remember that the purchase is just part of the ownership experience. A vast majority of buyers burn up all their goodwill trying to save a few bucks that are largely irrelevant in the grand scheme of owning a car. What they don't realize is that in two years, when they need to know something about the car or want a reference or need me to fix their paperwork because they tried to cheat on their taxes and failed, I'm really not going to be interested in helping them out. You used up all your goodwill with the low price you needed so badly. Anything after that is your problem. Treat me with respect, deal with me in good faith, be reasonable, and you'll find that you have a friend in the business for life. Maybe this sounds harsh, but you should always keep in mind that there's much more to the old car hobby than merely getting a good deal when you buy a car: there's everything that comes after that one single moment. And that's a lot of words.
  3. And at the speed of light, what happens when you turn on your headlights?
  4. If you got it for anywhere close to $30,000, that's a BIG win. My gut said that was a $45,000 car and there's one currently for sale for nearly $70,000. You also got one of the most road-worthy of all pre-war cars. You're going to love it. Welcome to the club!
  5. Tom delivered the engine this morning, as promised. He really stepped up and did the leg work to get the engine fixed, not only taking it to Frank Casey, but driving 10 or 12 hours each way (twice) to pick up and return the engine. The stitched areas should be permanently fixed and if things go as planned, we should be able to clean, detail, and reassemble the front end of the car over the next few months. To his credit, Tom also stepped up and bought a new gasket set for the engine, which was not an inexpensive purchase. We shook hands as friends, and I look forward to seeing him again at future events. That's really how it should be and Tom did things right by me. Before going home tonight, I also spent 10 minutes trying to install those expensive trim rings I bought and... no go. They fit the diameter, but they're not deep enough, leaving a 3/4-inch gap behind the trim ring. That's not going to work. Hopefully I didn't tear up the wheel trying it on, although I did dent the trim ring with my hand when I was trying to push it into place. So at least I can't return them. Does anyone know any other sources for 17-inch trim rings? Some Packard supplier? Please let me know. Thanks!
  6. Excellent point, Don. I certainly wouldn't miss the maintenance of the whitewalls. I don't mind the feedback, no apologies needed. I guess I like my cars flashy--as a kid growing up in the '70s and '80s, all the big Classics had wide whites and trunks and fog lights, so those are the ingredients I admire. Nevertheless, I'm all but sold on doing the blackwalls at this point and I'll admit I'm excited to see how it looks. They do look great on certain cars, particularly cars with bright colors or lots of chrome or chrome wheels. Nevertheless, there's still part of my mind that thinks blackwalls on a dark car look like this:
  7. The '29 Cadillac uses dual points and a four-lobe cam in the distributor (instead of eight) with one coil and one condenser. Either set of points can fire the coil since they're sitting on the same breaker plate and there is only one condenser required since it's still doing 8 cylinders' worth of work. Each set of points fires every other cylinder. The theory was that the points would last longer by firing half as often. I've found that with a good condenser the points will last almost indefinitely in my '29 (good thing because the points are rare and expensive). You don't necessarily need two condensers for two sets of points--the condenser's job is to only dampen the spark that tends to form between the points as they snap open. That spark causes the material transfer between the points and the pitting that ruins points. In theory, the condenser is just a capacitor with a low enough resistance that the current that would be required to jump that gap is diverted into the capacitor. That's why getting one with a correct rating is so important. Two isn't mandatory if one is doing the job adequately. My '35 Lincoln essentially has two separate ignition systems running a single distributor. Two coils, two sets of points, two capacitors, two breaker plates isolated from one another, and one distributor with one rotor firing twelve leads. As long as the capacitor can absorb and discharge the energy in the point gap, it's fine. One, two, one big one, whatever, it doesn't really matter as long as the energy is absorbed before it can make the jump between the points. The capacitor does not play a role in triggering the coil or the spark. The ignition would probably fire without a condenser (for a while, anyway) since it's the points that is causing the magnetic field in the coil to collapse to generate the actual spark. Condensers are just there to make it consistent and reliable, and to increase point life.
  8. Engine will be back tomorrow morning so we start moving forward again. We'll see how it looks and go from there. I'll post an update once I've seen the engine. On a completely different front, I finally found a set of 17-inch trim rings. They were neither easy to find nor inexpensive, but I think they're a great update. This car definitely needs new tires--those on it now are octagon-shaped and it really rattles along. 17-inch radials don't exist anymore, so that option is out. Whitewalls are about $350 each, maybe more depending on what brand I want. I'm not entirely positive that there's going to be a big pile of cash left over after that engine goes back in, so I'm pretty seriously considering blackwalls, which can be had for about $150 each. Besides, if I don't like them I can peel them off later without serious regrets. However, I also think that blackwalls on the dark wheels might be a little too severe. West Peterson made this Photoshopped image with blackwalls, and as my friend Auburnseeker said, "It looks like a Nazi staff car." With a little looking around, I eventually found this handsome dark green coupe, which is the only '35 Lincoln I've seen with blackwalls. I have to admit the trim rings make it look a lot better: So tonight I started playing with Photoshop a little bit myself. Here's what I came up with: Admittedly, the trim rings will be a little brighter in reality than in my image (it's REALLY hard to duplicate chrome with Photoshop), but I have to admit I still like the whitewalls. And whitewalls with the trim rings looks especially delicious: Nevertheless, economics might force my hand; I don't love the blackwalls but I don't hate them, either. West and AJ, I'm not a convert, but maybe I'm starting to get it. I'll put a trim ring on tomorrow and see how it looks. I've been hesitant to do it because I'm not 100% positive they'll fit. They look like they will when I hold them up to the wheel, but until it's on there, there's just no way to know. Unfortunately, the little grippy teeth that hold it on are going to chew the hell out of the paint on the wheels, so I don't want to just shove it on there. I have a few ideas how to protect it and bought some thin but tough plastic that should be puncture-proof but thin enough to allow the rings to fit. I'll try tomorrow and post a photo. I guess I'm just trying to keep myself busy while I wait to get started on the rest of the project.
  9. I don't know what the asking price is or what your budget is so I'll refrain from naming what I think it's worth so the process isn't tainted. That said, my advice is that if you can get it for $30,000, do it and don't hesitate. That's a $10,000 interior, easy. Plus these cars were just named CCCA Full Classics, and if the guy selling it hasn't noticed the 20% bounce because of it, don't remind him. The color combination is close to Lancaster Gray over Monterey Blue--not quite exact but quite attractive. That's the color combination I plan to paint my Century. Be prepared to reach if the car is as good as it appears. People regret the one that got away. They rarely regret paying extra for a car they love. If the price is something you can afford, go for it.
  10. Dang, sorry. I didn't realize the photo was gigantic. I'll fix it.
  11. Agreed. I never much cared for bright undercarriages. Chassis should be black. It's hardware, not design. I have known this lovely Buick roadster for many years and have always admired it, but man, I HATE the red undercarriage. The red is not that noticeable in this photo, but it's VERY evident from almost any angle in person, and it really gets distracting. If this were mine, all that red under there would be painted black ASAP.
  12. I don't see any mention of an insurance payout in any of the linked articles. That would certainly complicate things, but it would also bring the financial and legal might of an insurance company to bear on the suit (obviously they'd want the car if they paid a claim--it's a windfall for them as much as anyone else). The complicated thing is going to be tracking it back to Europe and finding whomever received it circa 2001. The shop that performed the restoration should probably expect to be served and to cough up records, and if there are other owners in the chain subsequent to that, they, too, should expect to hire lawyers. Additionally, it seems that it was sold at auction at some point, so that auction company will likely have to intervene in some way. In short, eveyrone who has touched the car since 2001 is going to get sued. For something worth $7 million, they're going to be willing to buy a lot of lawyering to chase them all down in various countries. Whether Europeans are bound by US court decisions is something that remains to be seen and my guess would be that the plaintiffs in this case, who apparently have a legitimate claim to the car, are simply going to sue the current "owner" hard enough to force him to climb the tree himself and shake loose whomever had their hands on the car prior to him. There's some indication that he may have known of the car's cloudy history by virtue of registering it under an LLC, but then again, many large collectors have LLCs just for the purpose of owning their cars, so that alone isn't a real good barometer of his intent or knowledge. He did decline to return the car, forcing a court case, and perhaps he's hoping he can outlast them financially. I don't know. The first step is this next court ruling, which will determine how everyone else proceeds. It's going to be ugly and the only ones guaranteed to come out ahead are the lawyers. It sounds like the current "owner" is rolling up his sleeves for a fight, and it will depend on how the review of the current judgement goes with the court. If they rule in the defendant's favor and the statue of limitations has expired, the plaintiffs might be SOL. If they uphold the current ruling, then it's going to get all kinds of interesting and a lot of people are going to get sued on two continents. Kind of makes our reasonably-priced cars look more appealing, doesn't it?
  13. Nice work, Neil. It's always a pleasant surprise when a job is easier than expected instead of a nightmare. The Dante Red matches well, too!
  14. Awesome thread, Mr. Earl! I have a storage room full of Model A and V8 Ford parts that I'm not using and trying to turn them into money is just going to take too much time. If you come to my shop, I will give you any two parts of your choice, up to and including a complete flathead V8 engine (I have two long blocks and I'm going to keep the one that you don't take). I'm not going to try to identify everything or ship it, but if you want some parts that probably have value, come and look and you're welcome to take any two things you want. Most of the small parts are 1935 Ford, but big stuff has wider applications. I believe the exhaust manifolds are Chrysler 340 but might be small block Chevy, I don't remember anymore. That's the deal. I'm not boxing and shipping anything, but it's free if you can come get it. You can also hang out and look at cars all day if you'd like. Here's just some of the stuff:
  15. Wasn't the "Hillside Strangler" actually two people working together?
  16. Hey Steve, Any rocker panel stainless moldings? I might also be interested in Stromberg carbs, depending on how complete. I have enough for my Limited, but I always like having spares on the shelf. Thanks!
  17. Paying someone to go look at the car for you is by no means a guarantee of success. Professional inspectors are only "professional" in the sense that they're getting paid and "inspectors" only in the sense that they look at the car. Obviously I've had many, many "appraisers" and "inspectors" to my shop and I can count on three fingers the number of them I felt knew what they were doing. They don't do any of the things you want/expect/hope they will do, not ever. They aren't doing compression tests, leakdown tests, testing the oil, or anything like that. They come, they look at the car, they start it, they listen to it, they take pictures of every little scratch they can find, and sometimes they ride with me while I drive it. That's more or less it. Few know how to spot botched bodywork and I usually point out issues on the undercarriage because they don't have any idea what to look at. At least one of the big "appraisal" companies (with initials AA and the letter that comes after F) is specifically designed to remove money from your wallet without helping you buy a car. Their own appraiser told me they are instructed to go extra hard on the cars and that "the boss/owner doesn't want people buying the cars they inspect." Think about it--they've got your $500, they crap all over the car so you don't buy it and won't hold them responsible for anything they might have missed, and they look like heroes so you'll use them again next time. Get it? Total scam. I've had professional inspectors in my shop who do it part-time to pick up some cash. A taxi cab dispatcher, an appliance repair man, a college student, a high school shop teacher, a retired cop, an insurance adjuster, a retired accountant, a guy who worked at a rental car company, and a bunch of others. Conspicuously absent? A guy who knows about collector cars. One kid walked in to examine this car: His very first comment? "Wow, I didn't know they made orange Mustangs!" Are you friggin' kidding me?!? Most of them take a class at the Holiday Inn on a Saturday afternoon, they get "certified" by some company or another to be one of their "inspectors" and then they go out and do these half-assed inspections. Most of the time it involves filling out a form and taking some photos. In the case of AA[blank], they send someone out but the guy who actually does the "appraisal" is the guy who owns the company (and who doesn't want you buying the car). For example, they were hired to look at this car: The report to the buyer was that the car was a rust bucket and needed a total restoration that would cost "at least $150,000." Most inspectors will ask to see the title to make sure it's viable, and I'll show it to them, but AA[redacted] took a photo of it when I wasn't looking and sent it to the buyer, who promptly started calling everyone in the country with the owner's last name trying to negotiate a better deal and cut me out of the loop. In this business, both of those are what we call "a dick move." AA[redacted] is merely the biggest and worst offender, but their criminality is matched by incompetence at other levels by other companies. (It might be worth noting that the '34 Ford up there was so rusty and crappy that I desperately regret selling it and wish I had kept it for myself.) Any car you're interested in buying, if you can't afford to get burned, go see it yourself. Period. It costs about the same as an inspection and you are MUCH smarter than anyone you will pay to go look at the car. Inspections are often a ripoff. Granted, you might think as a dealer I have an axe to grind and a reason to hate inspectors, but most folks who know me know that I don't have anything to hide with the cars I sell. They are what they are and I am very choosy about what comes into my shop--I don't sell junk. Nevertheless, I continue to let inspectors into my shop and I continue to sell very, very few cars to the people who pay them. On the other hand, I do sell an awful lot of cars to people who come see them in person.
  18. Two of my cars have spotlights and I don't like them one bit. I haven't found a purpose for them, although I guess if I used the '29 Cadillac to deliver pizzas, it might be useful for finding address numbers. The worst part is that you can't just unbolt it, there's a hole through the car. I don't know what the appeal was; I never use mine other than to demonstrate that they actually light up and even in the day of inadequate headlights, I can't imagine using it to light up the road while I drive. The one on my '41 Buick gets in the way of the hood, making it very tricky to open, and both the hood and the light are damaged because of it. What a pain. The one on my '29 Cadillac rattles as I drive and I haven't been able to solve that despite spending hours trying to find a solution. I am not looking forward to the day a wayward stone punches a hole in one of their lenses--think headlight lenses are hard to find? I hate spotlights. It obviously isn't a disqualifier for me owning a car, but given a choice between two otherwise similar cars, one of which has a spotlight, I would buy the other one regardless of cost or condition differences and if it's a car I'm ambivalent about, I'd pass.
  19. There's no such thing as "matching numbers" on an old Buick (or virtually any car of this period). The number on the block won't match the frame number or serial number on the car, that's totally normal. If you post the serial number stamped on the passenger side of the block down by the oil pan rail I'm positive someone here will be able to give you at least the time frame in which it was built.
  20. Remflex says they don't ever need to be re-torqued. They do compress quite a bit when you torque them down which I presume helps keep things tight, kind of like a lock washer spring underneath the flange. Just the same, I put a wrench on them now and then just to be sure. It never hurts, right?
  21. I'm in the home stretch on the exhaust project--the header is installed along with the rest of the intake system. As soon as I get my custom-built muffler, it'll be off to the exhaust shop to get the exhaust system finished. With luck, it'll be ready to roll to our first event in late April. Installing the header on the car was easier than expected--almost easier than it has been working on the stand. Perhaps it's all the practice that I had putting it on and tearing it off repeatedly. Whatever the case, the installation was straightforward and went without a hitch--a rarity in the old car world. I started with new manifold gaskets from Remflex--I'm totally sold on these gaskets (I will be having them make a custom set for my V12 Lincoln as well). I installed fresh studs in the head with a few drops of red Lok-Tite so they'll stay put even with the heat of combustion in the head, then I hung the gaskets in place. That problematic bolt I struggled with needed to be in place as the intake/exhaust assembly was eased into place as a unit so that's what I did. It lined up surprisingly easily and I put a few turns on the bolt to make sure it was threaded properly. Studs were each installed with a small drop of red Lok-Tite. No need to use a lot of it, this is plenty. Once the studs were in place, I hung the Remflex gaskets. Note how much thicker they are than regular gaskets (and remember how those copper gaskets I used last time just fell apart). Once I was sure it was going on straight, I installed the rest of the spacers/square washers/washers/lock nuts in place and snugged them down finger-tight. For the studs, I'm using lock nuts that are slightly deformed to grab the threads--they won't back off and do not need lock washers. I did, however, use some hardened washers that will help distribute the torque over a larger area and won't distort. Then I gradually snugged them all up working from the center outwards in both directions. The center and end positions on the header were secured with small bolts, lock washers, and hardened washers, as were the two titanium bolts near tubes 4 and 5. Center positions were secured with small-head bolts, lock washers, and hardened washers. Note the custom-fitted square washers and spacers to make it all fit properly. Outer positions with studs were secured with crush nuts and hardened washers, plus square washers and spacers. The round mark on the nut indicates that it's a locking crush nut. After all the fasteners were in place, I gently torqued them to about 30 lb.-ft. Remflex recommends 20 but with that much cast iron hanging off the side and the difference in materials, it seemed prudent to try to get them as snug as possible without over-torquing the assembly. If previous experience is any indicator, I don't expect any problems with leakage along the head flange. All fasteners torqued and manifolds secure. Looks good, doesn't it? Once the manifolds were secure, it was simply a matter of reinstalling the carburetors and air cleaner. I used more Lok-Tite on the carburetor studs and recycled the old phenolic spacers since they were still in good shape. For the moment, I simply reinstalled the existing carburetors and left the progressive linkage in place. I also reinstalled the original flapper valve under the rear carburetor, but I noticed that it was binding pretty badly--I wonder if it even worked? It took quite a bit of effort to open it, more than just engine vacuum could overcome. I wonder if my rear carb even was doing anything at WOT? This big car was always impressively fast, but if that rear carb wasn't working properly, I was probably down 20 or 25 horsepower--significant on an engine that makes 165. I continue to believe that this engine has been modified--perhaps some extra compression and a larger cam. It's just too strong to run this well with such a handicap. That also bodes well for the future modifications once it's finished. Once the exhaust is done, I'll have to re-tune the car anyway so that's the right time to change to two front carbs and synchronous operation, which will surely add considerable horsepower--fellow board member Lawrence Helfand says his '41 Century is notably peppier with both carbs running all the time. For now, I just need it to run well enough to ensure the exhaust doesn't leak. Install the carbs (note air cleaner support studs)... ...and install the air cleaner assembly. Even the collectors will blend in. I designed the headers to work with a stock exhaust system, but they use a 3-bolt flange where the stock exhaust uses a 2-bolt flange, so I couldn't connect the existing exhaust system to the headers. I was sorely tempted to fire it up anyway, but decided that would be a mistake. I'll wait until there's a full exhaust system on it again before I fire it. But with the correct flanges, a stock exhaust system will fit. My system won't be too different from stock, with a Y-pipe, 2.25-inch tubing, and an oversized muffler, with the primary difference being that it will be 2.25-inches from front to back rather than stepping down to 2-inches at the muffler. Again, nobody will notice the slightly larger tailpipe but it might improve flow a little bit. My primary concern is quiet, but these upgrades will surely make a difference in performance. Collectors are designed to fit stock exhaust but since the flanges are different, I could not hook it up. A test fire will have to wait for the new exhaust system. I'm extremely pleased with the finished product. It fits well, and had I been a little more careful with how I oriented tubes #4 and #5, it would have been an effortless installation. Better yet, it blends in and doesn't call attention to itself--most folks probably won't even notice that it's there. Even the fresh paint on the intake manifold matches the engine pretty well. Check out these before and after photos: It'll be going to the exhaust shop in the next week or two. It's exciting to be this close to the end of this project (which started about a year ago). I'm also very eager to see how it sounds and feels with a quiet exhaust and perhaps even a bit more horsepower. The fastest car in the local CCCA is about to get even faster...
  22. I don't make mistakes often, but it appears I under-priced this car by a good amount. We had five or six people fighting over it within hours of it going live on other sites and it sold in about 12 hours. Have I under-estimated the popularity of the 1961 Chevys?
  23. My 1929 Cadillac fails in the closed position as well. That seems silly, especially for such a failure-prone device, but there it is. I believe my 1935 Lincoln fails in the closed position as well.
  24. I really like the accessory driving lights this car has. Much more authentic-looking than Trippes or Pilot Rays that people often install on early cars (a mistake, in my opinion). And while I usually like large driving lights on a big car like this, those look exactly right in this application.
  25. Unlikely that's 1920s paint, dealer-applied or otherwise. Looks like a '60s or early '70s "freshening" restoration, which would explain why it looks aged but not correct. I love the car, it is very much like the charcoal gray one that I was hoping someone knew of in the "missing Classics" thread. Fresh paint in a period-correct color would add a great deal of value, probably more than the cost of a paint job. Of course, at that point the slippery slope argument comes into play and it becomes difficult to figure out the path forward without going upside-down. That is a great-looking car.